choover1101

Tires: Maxxis Bravo 771 AT Size: 235/60R16 Rims: Konig Runlite (Front) Size 16x7.5 Offset:+45 Fitment issues: At a certian steering angle the back of the front wheels rub on the side skirt. Once you turn the steering further the rubbing stops. Solution: Remove side skirt and front inner fenders. (Solved the problem.) Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

Sorry I misunderstood the problem (Missed the last two sentences on brake balance.) The part numbers I used are here. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5461728 The fronts list 2004-2008 WRX. I also did stainless brake lines. My car stops wonderfully. More balanced front to rear i am running 205/60/16 Nitto NT450 all around and thiis car stops better than my previous cars. Best previous was a 79 Corvette on EBC pads and rotors and four piston calipers.

You need to get the brackets for the calipers you intend to put on. Rock auto has them pretty cheap.

The radiator has no trans cooler, the input is on the top of the right one and the exit is on the top of the left one as viewed from the picture. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

I was asked to write about putting a 2013-16 Subaru BRZ Mishimoto radiator in a 1996 Legacy GT. Background: my GT blew its original radiator at 240k miles I have a spare parts store radiator off of the Outback comparing the two I did not truse the parts store radiator as the core is 1/2" thick and my stock core is 1 also, I live in Texas. So I was looking around for a matching size radiator. Overview: Not worth it. 1. The lower radiator mounts are at 29.25 which is too wide for the stock lower mount holes at 25.5 and too narrow for the outer mount holes at 30.5. To solve this I drilled holes beside the stock outer mounts and did offset holes in the lower mount bushings. 2. Lower radiator hose location is approximately 3" too high. It points at my lower cam. To solve this issue i cut two spare lower boses and made a double 90° S curve. I attached these together with a piece of 1.25 galvanized pipe and mishimoto hose clamps. 3. No radiator cap. Solved by buying a Moroso inline radiator cap and a 16lb radiator cap and cutting the upper radiator hose to fit. 4. Peg style upper mounts. Unsolved. (Radiator is secure due to metal in hoses.) 5. Radiator has ac condenser mounnts tacked to front and rubs on condenser. Solved by attaching tie down straps and backing up stretching the ac condenser mounts to clear mounts on radiator. 6. No trans cooler. Solution fancy twin AN-6 trans coolers i bought for the Corvette. 7. Drain is on the front of radiator. No solution. 8 radiator fans don't fit. Solution cut 1999 plastic radiator fan assembly to fit and rivet both halves together, then bolt to radiator. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

Previous owner drove it until it stopped running then abandoned it at Pepboys. She told them to haul it off, but since they know I like Subarus they called me and I offered her $200 for the car. I will end up scrapping what i don't want off of it and making my money back. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

So this weekend i was pulling the heads off of my spare 2.5 legacy. With some information from Brighton96 i was able to get them off. And i found out why the motor died on the previous owner. Thankfully i mostly wanted the heads off of this block for the FrankenMotor build. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

That plate. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

Good looking handle. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you for giving me hope for my SUS I thought the front end was doomed. Mine is black with gold "trim." Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I palindromed today as well, sadly I missed the pic by 2 miles as well. 232234 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What are the benefits of the EJ257 crossover pipe and/or what made you choose it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was attempting to create extra heat reflection around the intake. The plan was to use that area somewhat as a heat shield. If you get me the information about the raised area I should be able to make a shallow notch there to clear the block and not have to remove the whole area. I am also thinking about adding sleeves to the bolt holes to prevent over torquing. I can if space is available use slightly oversized bolt holes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am the shop manager at Bradycases.com our shop is around 120ft long 24ft tall and 40ft wide. First I want to thank you doublechaz for the warning about potential poisoning from PTFE (Teflon). I was not aware of the severity of dangers present in heating it with a torch. I am a try by doing type person. In your link it states: Abstract: The relative toxicities of thermal degradation products from four fluoropolymers were determined in rats. The polymers were polytetrafluoroethylene (9002-84-0) (PTFE), copolymers of vinylidene fluoride (75-38-7) and hexafluoropropene (116-15-4) with and without additives (VF2-A and VF2/HFP), and the terpolymers of PTFE, VF2, and HFP (VF2/HFP/TFE). Male Sprague-Dawley-rats were exposed for 30 minutes to the pyrolysis products of VF2/HFP, VF2/HFP-A, and VF2/HFP/TFE at 550 and 800 degrees-C, and to the pyrolysis products of PTFE at 625 and 800 degrees-C. Survivors were killed at 1, 2, 4, 8, 16, and 32 days postexposure and examined for pathological changes in organs and tissues. Hydrolyzable fluoride concentrations were If I read this correct the rats were "exposed for 30 minutes" at "625 degrees and 800 degrees-C" (that is 1157 to 1472 degrees Fahrenheit) In no way did I even get close to that. Also quoting from your article, ". Other kinds of industrial polymers were observed to produce lethal atmospheres under less drastic conditions than either form of Teflon." And one more quote, "In the temperature range 300 to 360 degrees-C, hexafluoroethane (C2F6) and octafluorocyclobutane (C4F8) were identified as decomposition products." It lists this (octafluorocyclobutane) as the lowest temperature and most deadly of the poisonous gasses produced beginning at 572 Degrees Fahrenheit which I did exceed. In conclusion I thank you for leading me to this article and letting me know that I did indeed produce one of the most deadly gasses PTFE could produce. In future testing I plan to limit any temperatures of PTFE to under 400F to prevent the possibility of death. Once again in all sincerity I want to thank you doublechaz for linking this information. I also added a warning to the Youtube video.

04 wrx front 04 legacy h6 rear booster disconnected currently. Brakes were locked up when I got the car so first thing was to swap them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No spacers. Finding a baseline. I removed my power booster vacuum and re-tapped for 1/8" npt I then put in a digital temperature gauge in the A/C vent as shown in a previous post. After driving a while and getting some good heat soak on the intake I am running around 190F driving. I will update the earlier post to reflect this. Mods I plan to test. 1 Throttle body coolant bypass 2 Egr delete 3 Intake spacers 4 Intake heat shield over coolant crossover

Testing intake air temperature. While driving it stays around 140F. Under throttle it drops down to 135F. While sitting the gauge can climb as high as 170F. This is with an unmodified 2.5 intake. External temperature is 72F. Edit: After heat soak has taken effect I am running 190F ish while driving. This is after a visit to a friend's work and going to get lunch at an eat in restaurant. Still without any mods. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bodecker has a data sheet on this already. Which is why I chose PTFE PTFE: http://www.boedeker.com/ptfe_p.htm?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PTFE%20Plastics&utm_content=teflon%20sheets&utm_term=teflon%20sheet&gclid=CKfO_8mJ79ECFVGewAodrXgE_A Thermal Conductivity (BTU-in/ft²-hr-°F) = 1.70 Standard Phenolic Materials used in Carb Spacers: http://www.boedeker.com/ilamp_p.htm Thermal Conductivity (BTU-in/ft²-hr-°F) = 2.03 Off Bodecker's website: "NOTE: The information contained herein are typical values intended for reference and comparison purposes only. They should NOT be used as a basis for design specifications or quality control. Contact us for manufacturers' complete material property datasheets. All values at 73°F (23°C) unless otherwise noted. "

So I was testing the material (PTFE) I used for making my intake spacers and was pleasantly surprised. This is my first video so be nice. Summary: 600 degrees F and no melty. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JMZ1QEM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks Setnev at the time I did that I had read about people doing brake swaps and losing cruise. I believe the threads I was reading pertained to newer models. Due to the legoness of Subarus I was concerned about that potential with that happening to my car. Upon finding it was not a problem I wanted to place my personal experience on here in case someone else went searching. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A couple of projects knocked out. Prepping for IAT testing and cnc'd phenolic intake spacers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

04-07 WRX Steering Knuckle Swap: Left PN-28313AE030 (Subaru) (Ebay) $75 http://parts.cleobaysubaru.com/p/Sub...8313AE030.html Right PN-28313AE020 (Subaru) (Ebay) $80 http://parts.cleobaysubaru.com/p/Sub...8313AE020.html Wheel Bearing PNx2- 517008 (Timken) (Rock Auto) $ 55.58 pr Wheel Hub PNx2- 930501 (Dorman) (Rock Auto) $ 36.46 pr Ball Joint PNx2- K9513 (Moog) (Rock Auto) $ 47.58 pr Inner Wheel Seal PNx2- 710464 (National\Timken) (Rock Auto) $ 7.58 pr Outer Wheel Seal PNx2- 710463 (Timken) (Rock Auto) $ 7.34 pr Wheel Bearing Retainer PNx2- CIR176 (SKF) (Rock Auto) $ 7.54 pr Spindle Nut PNx2- 615160 (Dorman) (Rock Auto) $ 4.84 pr Note: The 04-07 WRX uses different wheel speed sensors. I have disabled my ABS so this does not bother me. The Cruise Control and the AWD still function well even without sensors on the front. I am curious as to how the transmission gets its information for adjusting the AWD.

(UPDATE PICS LATER) Today I installed a cheap UEL header due to a leaking stock manifold. Fit was atrocious. I had to use ratchet straps and a jack to get the second flange installed (based on reviews this was expected and prepared for {also somewhat enjoyable}). Also the flange from the header to the catalytic converters was off about half an inch as well. The gaskets supplied by DNA Motorsports did not seal and I will be ordering Remflex Gaskets. Header PN-HDS-SI97-25RS (DNA Motorsports) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KAA3TQQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(UPDATE PICS LATER - Strut Pics, Spacer top measurements Also Fix Wall of Text) These are measurements as recorded by me of stock 1996 Legacy GT struts at 230k miles and a new set of KYB Excel-G struts for a 1999 Legacy Outback SUS. Front: Overall Height: (GT) 22" (SUS) 23.5" Distance from base of strut tube to bottom of spring perch: (GT) 8" (SUS) 9.5" Distance from top of strut fully extended (threads) to the lowest spring mounting area on perch: (GT) 12.5" (SUS) 12.625" Rear: Overall Height: (GT) 27" (SUS) 28.5" Distance from base of strut tube to bottom of spring perch: (GT) 11.5" (SUS) 13" Distance from top of strut fully extended (threads) to the lowest spring mounting area on perch: (GT) 14" (SUS) 14.125" Now into the swap stuff. I had already added in .5" spacers above the stock GT front struts and 1" over the rear. I made the spacers based on a scan I found on the forums here. Adding in the 1" spacer in the rear without lowering any of the rear suspension was difficult because you are trying to stick a strut in that is now 1" taller than stock in a space designed for a stock one. Adding in an outback strut that is already 1.5" taller and with the 1" spacer on top required me first insert the top of the strut into the car and bolt down two of the studs (lengthened) and thread nuts onto them then to to use a transmission holder designed for a lift. I put the transmission tool under the strut where the flange meets the outer tube, NOT where the bottom surface of the tube is. There is a small lip of tube sticking below the actual base of the strut. Once the transmission tool was placed there I lowered the lift I was working on. This compressed the strut, but also moved it forward away from the mounting flange on the rear wheel knuckle. I then had to use a ratchet strap attached to the strut and also to the rear tow point to move the strut rearward enough to slip over the wheel knuckle where it is designed to mount. Once this was finished I put in the lower strut bolt. Once the lower strut bolt was loosely installed I raised the car back up and used the transmission tool on a bolt on hub spacer. I placed the transmission tool under the lug nuts on the spacer and lowered the car again. This pivoted the upper hole on the strut flange into place and i then inserted the upper strut flange bolt and proceed to tighten both bolts. Once this was finished I did the same thing on the other side. One additional note, I had ratchet strapped both trailing arms together as tight as i felt was safe in order to pull the rear suspension down enough to begin installation. Front strut installation was a breeze. Even with a total 2" taller strut in the front there were no difficulties or differences noted from just installing the .5" spacer. Final note. My car appears to have skipped leg day.

230,xxx saved from the junkyard. I have put 10k since July 2016. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk