Brisvegas

I am no CVT transmission expert, but in my opinion if your 95% freeway estimation is accurate, then you probably have a lot less to worry about than those owners who do 95% "stop start" driving. Heat is apparently the big enemy of all transmissions, and from what I have read, "stop start" driving creates a lot more heat than freeway driving. I think the jury is still out as to whether changing your fluid at 184,000 miles would be harmful ... so considering your stated driving habits, I think I'd probably pass on the fluid change just to be on the side of caution. I'm in a different case to you ... whilst I don't rack up a lot of miles annually, my driving percentages are probably only 25% freeway, so I will be changing my CVT fluid at 60,000 miles (or in my case 100,000 kms)

Hi mate, we are both familiar with this aren't we ... we discussed this privately several months ago when I had a query concerning the very same component on my vehicle. The advice you gave me at that time was 100% correct, and your diagnosis was confirmed by my well informed mechanic when I went for a subsequent service at the dealer. At the time the brown paste had me worried because it looked a lot like corrosion ... but as you suggested at the time, it was apparently only the strange coloured anti corrosion application that Subaru applied at the factory. My mechanic added an extra application for added protection (and for my peace of mind.)

How about calming down mate. I think there is more to worry about in the world at the moment than this. I apologised for posting without what you called "a lack of context." As I said, I thought the clip was self explanatory. Perhaps I should have initially added " Here is an interesting clip on a simple repair or replacement of a PCV valve without taking it to the dealer" ... but at the time I didn't, so you can either accept my honest misjudgement, or continue to berate me ... it's your decision. P.S. I just clicked on the initial link and it is working fine,

I'm sorry, I just figured the title was self explanatory, but if not, then I hope this helps .. Context .... this is about Subaru PCV valves

I have "a bit of an answer" to your "bit of a question: ........ RIDICULOUS

I'm sure you will be re-directed to previous threads where there has been numerous posts by the various "believers" and "non believers" on CVT fluid replacement. I happen to be "a believer," because like you, I intend keeping my car for well over another 100k miles, and to me it defies logic that changing CVT fluid would not help me achieve that aim. Just briefly, let me say that I have searched pretty extensively on the subject, and I have yet to find a "qualified professional transmission expert" who believes that there is such a thing as "lifetime" tranny fluid. It might well be "lifetime" for the period of the warranty, or even for some period passed the warranty ... but for those like you and me who intend keeping their vehicles for 200K-300K miles, to me it is a no brainer. I think "lifetime fluid" is a marketing ploy by manufacturers which has a twofold aim ... (1) It can allow them (via the dealers) to claim their vehicles have lower maintenance service costs, which is important to some prospective buyers. (2) It stops owners from "messing" with the transmissions and perhaps making warranty claims if something goes wrong.

Hi TEH, I kinda felt I was looking in the mirror when I read your post because so much of it applied to me . I am very happy with my stock 2016 3.6R, but I find myself at times "lusting" after a new BRZ ( I think they look great) ... but then I repeat the exact same words that you used in your post " The car has been maintained really well, I know what I have, and it's paid off, so no good reason to get rid of it." I am also "older," so mine is, and will remain, stock, but I have always have just one reservation about the car, and that is a small complaint about the ride qualities, and that is due mainly to my thoughts that the seats are not overly comfortable. I have remedied that to some extent by adding a good quality lambswool seat cover, and by also lining it with extra memory foam on the base, which has helped a lot. My next move will be to change the noisy OEM Dunlop Sport tyres for Michelin Primacy 4's and that will be it. I also agree 100% with your thoughts on changing the CVT fluid, and I have endured the same "discouragement mantra" from the dealer (with the exception of one particular "younger" service writer who has encouraged me to do it at between approx 60-100,000 miles)

Because this is not purely 6th Gen specific, our hard working moderator might move it (that's OK) ... I just think the general information in the video has some relevance to all us Subaru owners who currently might feel the dealership is their only option for repairs.

My thoughts .... Don't look in your side mirrors Change the oil when it is due Check your coolant level occasionally Buy some shares in a coil manufacturer

I am a little intrigued as to why you mentioned "head gasket" in relation to the OP's 2015 Legacy. According to what I have read, there is no inherent weakness in that model year, or in any Subaru model upward from then. I think "head gasket problems" were pretty much only restricted to certain year models, and that was over a decade ago.

I have no doubt that it was added .... it was invoiced as being done, and specifically mentioned by the service writer.

Bloody Hell .... that kinda shoots down my point about EyeSight saving the day. I'd really appreciate some more info on the actual collision details, in an attempt to work out why EyeSight didn't save you. For example, if someone smashed into you, rather than you colliding with the other person.

Does your vehicle have "EyeSight"?? ... if so, I'm surprised it didn't prevent the impact.

Unusual story there. I'd be interested in hearing more about how that came about, and also how long you kept it in it's "second life."

I don't want to start a "flame war" with you ... (and I have found some of your posts interesting) ... but can I respectfully say that if you are being honest, then you might have to agree that you have been on several occasions, the one who has made "unnecessary comments." This forum is for anyone who is interested in 6th Gen Legacy's ... it doesn't matter if you are a hardcore DIY-er or not ( but I would dare to suggest that there are many members who change their own oil ... so your comment that " people hardly can change their own oil " is pretty ridiculous) ... but that is not my point. My point is that people come onto this forum for answers on many subjects, not to be subject to even the slightest abuse or jokes ... so I would humbly suggest that you continue contributing interesting posts, but try a bit harder to be less confrontational.

It sounds like that with the help of ammcinnis and others you have the problem covered ... but coincidentally I just watched the following Youtube clip ...

I do agree with ammcinnis' reply above ... but I will tell you of my very recent experience. And let me say firstly, that I have learn't to trust 100% the service writer at the dealership that I use. At my 54 month service ( which was the first time I met this new service writer) I told him that I felt there was an ever so slight "stumble" when idling. This "stumble" was so slight, that I wasn't totally sure that it could be diagnosed by anyone other than me, being the regular driver. (no trouble codes were showing on my diagnostic tool). While I was waiting for the service to be completed, the service writer informed me that the technician working on the car had removed the spark plugs and found that one of them was a little discoloured, and that he (the technician) suggested that a fuel injector service was recommended. He said the car was completely normal apart from that. I got a bit annoyed, and actually said that I felt this was a case of dealership "upselling." To his great credit, the service writer listened quietly to my "annoyance" and then proceeded to talk me through the suggested procedure, and that it was just a suggestion to try and find the supposed "stumble" that I reported. Bottom line was that I still didn't get the fuel injector service, but at least I came away with a new respect for the honesty of the service writer (who also at the time also discussed CVT information that was not out of the "normal dealership playbook." ) 6 months later at my next regular service (60 month) I still thought I felt the mystery stumble, so with the confidence previously established with the service writer, I agreed to get the injector cleaning ... and the fuel filter changed (which was a normal procedure on this particular 125,000 km service). The result was that I believe the "stumble" has gone. Again can I say that I agree with ammcinnis' comments, ... and so perhaps in my case, even though I buy "higher quality" fuel ... there is still always a chance that there could have been a "dirt" problem with one fill up. I realise this may not be relevant to your individual situation.

aki, Your posts are interesting .... but with great respect, I'm not sure that the above particular comment is deserved. P.S. just to show that we are not all perfect ... I think you meant "alley"

For what it is worth .. Fully charged automotive batteries should measure at 12.6 volts or above. When the engine is running, this measurement should be 13.7 to 14.7 volts. If you don’t have a multimeter to tell you the voltage of your battery, you can do a test of your electrical system by starting the car and turning on the headlights. If they are dim, that indicates the lights are running off the battery and that little or no charge is being produced by the alternator. If the lights get brighter as you rev the engine, it means the alternator is producing some current, but may not be producing enough at idle to keep the battery properly charged. If the lights have normal brightness and don’t change intensity as the engine is revved, your charging system is probably functioning normally