Infosecdad

If that's the one, I see a lip, no washers, and you would still need front fenders since it looks like they cut right through them and yours are different.

She's alive! I missed the sweet song of the Stromung... Based on research, I decided to try "The Right Stuff" to help seal up that hole on the lower starter bolt. Put in about 1/2" plug, then ran a bead down the threads, pushed the bolt in. Tighten it down and left it to cure for a few hours. DHL finally showed up with my NGK coils from RockAuto. Learned that NGK coils are made by Diamond just like OEM Not the exact same number, but the car is happy with them. Got it all back together, filled and burped the cooling system, no leaks Idled it for 15 min, fans came on, no leaks of any fluid. Put the covers back on and ran an errand to the storage garage where 99% of my stuff is right now... Needs a bath pretty badly. She'll get one today. Holy cow, that clutch! Completely different feel than my almost dead OEM DM setup. It's heavy, but not too heavy. I'm loving the feel of the SB Stage 3 Daily. I love that it has a solid engagement period, no slipping. You know as soon as it starts to grab, because it's not letting go. Wow, my tired stock was slush compared to this. It's going to take me a bit to get used to driving this, but some shifts are already seamless; I love it. Motor is running smooth, no misfires what so ever. Everything feels so tight/new. The driver's seat has only 1/3 of the butt time my old one did, it feels really nice and firm. List of changes: - 88k Long Block - 88k 5mt tranny (4.44) - 88k Rear diff - JDM TGV delete - Reman Starter - New NGK plugs (one step colder) - New NGK/Diamond coils - Intake from 202k engine - 88k Power Steering pump (no leaks) - Timing Service w/ Water Pump - 4k SB Stage 3 Daily w/ SM Flywheel - Full black interior swap (inc. dash) In case anyone was wondering, you can pull the engine and transmission at the same time, you just need to put the car up on jack stands so you have the room to really tip the tail down. Removing the exhaust manifold helps with clearance on the A/C cooler. It's pretty tight, you have to watch it closely, but it can be done. Highly recommend having a second person with you to help watch and push things. I'm glad to be done and driving again. Doing this in my in-laws driveway was a bit nerve-wracking. Plus, next week I start getting ready to teach Comp Sci in the fall. Thanks for the all the help, suggestions, etc. One of these days I just need to make a build thread and stop cluttering up the "what did you do today"

Do not pay $1k to replace the ECM on a guess. You are pre-immobilizer, so I’m pretty certain you can swap out a matching used one.

Harness from LGT, but I've replaced the connectors and checked them 6-8 times. I guess it's still possible, but I don't think it's likely at this point. If it fusses with the NGK coils, then I'll swap the OBXT harness over; I'd just rather not go that far if I don't have to.

It's basically messing with the signal back to the ECM from the Alternator to get it to bump the voltage up .5-.6v. Some Subarus (like mine), seem to run a little bit lower in the voltage department (low 13s a lot). There are a number of ways to do it. The easiest I found was to pony up for a fuse that is made by a company in Australia that will essentially bleed out a little voltage on the signal wire to get the voltage boosted. https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=41931600&postcount=3 https://www.hkbelect.com/ https://www.ebay.com/itm/Alternator-Voltage-Booster-MK3-for-Subaru-WRX-Outback-Liberty-Forester-/322650713539 I did this route because to undo it, you just have to swap the old fuse back in.

Yes. Both. It started about 3-4 months ago. I would have misfires on a cylinder out of nowhere. Could be at idle, could be under load. They could come and go in 4-5 seconds or last for a couple minutes. They slowly got more frequent and lasted longer. Until I would have to stop for 4-5 min and reset the ECM. In the last month, reset would no longer clear them. Near the end it was in Cyl 3. I swapped the coils between Cyl 3 and Cyl 1. It followed the coil to Cyl 1. The coil was 2 months old. I swapped out the coil for another one (I have six Cosmos because of troubleshooting) It stayed in Cyl 1 even with a different coil Then Cyl 4 started doing the same thing at that time. That's when I caved and bought the 88k OBXT for the engine, tranny, interior, etc. When I first started the 88k engine in my LGT with the Cosmo coils, it was missing a cylinder (rough) even though it wasn't formally registering a misfire yet. I had to shutdown because of the coolant leak, so I couldn't drive it yet. I just want to figure out root cause if possible and if the Cosmos are ok or not. I'd rather not toss them if they aren't the reason, and I don't want to sell them to someone if they are messed up. Edit: Cosmo just replied and said they can test the coils if I pay shipping both ways. I'm going to ship them off just to see what they say, I'll probably still try to test them myself later.

If I can carve out some time, I might try something to test. I have a set of Cosmo, OEM (88k), and NGK (incoming) I had the mod to up the voltage from the alt slightly (~.7v) that the WRX guys like to keep the voltage from falling too far. It would be in the mid 14s most of the time (peak upper 14s), I'm wondering if it did something to the Cosmo coils. I've pulled the mod and returned to the standard voltage as I'm wondering if that messed with things.

I use Super Lube, it's heavy duty, marine application; I figured it's probably good for this.

I’ve mostly read good things, but I have 2-3 that seem to be spitting out misfires. I’d like to know if I somehow found a bad batch or something else happened. But it’s one of the few things I can’t actually test in an isolated way.

Ordered a remain starter to pick up tomorrow. If I’m going to try to seal the hole/bolt with right stuff, I don’t want to pull the starter again anytime soon. Also found that NGK actually makes coils for this car! I didn’t know this. Ordered them off rock auto. I asked COSMO if they could/would test their coils if I sent them back to them. I can’t do it and want to know once and for all if those coils work right or not.

Good find on the waste gate :-D Research EGT delete. You can put a resistor in the end of the connector to simulate the EGT probe that used to be in the up-pipe and tape it up well to protect it. I did something like this: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/unofficial-05-06-lgt-2-2k-5w-resistor-up-pipe-131488.html

The VF52 can outrun the stock injectors, my stock injectors pushed 100% before the turbo ran out of steam. The stock injectors are my number one limiting factor right now.

Much of the suspension works across both the 2.5i and GT Headers are quite different, the engine dimensions are basically the same. But the GT headers have an up-pipe to the turbo and the 2.5i headers stay down and just go to cats and back. There isn’t a lot of engine/power mods you can do to the NA. “Cold air intake” is just for noise, no chips, etc. You can get an axle back for exhaust note, but not a lot of perf gains to be had. You can tune the suspension to something fun and drive a slow car fast. I was part of the late 90s subaru group that turboed their NA Imprezas. But that’s because there was no turbo/GT option for those years.

I wouldn’t do the crank pulley, the lighter pulley doesn’t help Subarus.

:spin::spin: So, got it all back together. All the fluids in, double, triple checked everything. Go to start it up, starts up fine. Idle learn is going ok. Notice a little leaking from the back of the engine. Is coolant. Is ok, prob from one of the heater hoses. Nope. No leaky hose. It's leaking from the lower starter bolt... How can it do that? Sit down kids and let me tell you a story. Looks like a previous owner replaced the starter at one point (or pulls the engine). Then puts it back together. The lower starter/bellhousing bolt is shorter than the others. Someone puts in one of the longer ones and keeps going until it shears off Then puts a placeholder bolt in with some kind of thread sealant. I come along and find the sheared bolt. No problem I say, I'll just drill that out and we'll be good to go. I never considered that they might have buried the old one all the way to the end. So drill until I get to the end of the "bolt" and have a little gap. I totally expect this. Tap it to rethread and all is well. Fast forward to today. When I realize that coolant CAN come out of that bolt hole because the "gap" I drilled into is a freaking coolant passage behind the bolt hole. Curious as to the depth, I go measure the bolt hole on the old engine. Mark it on a screwdriver. Insert the screwdriver into the "new" engine. Sure enough, it goes a little more than 1/2" further. :mad: Trying to decide if I can try to use either some jbweld or gasket maker in the hole ahead of the bolt to seal up the passage. Either way, I think I'm about done for the day...

Sorry, I was talking to the owner of the thread. I didn’t make that clear. To get anything saved in sent, you need to turn in that setting in your profile.

PMed you.

Stage 1 is up to 295 ft/lbs. Stage 3 Daily is up to 400 ft/lbs. There are more Stage 3 and Stage 4 that can handle up to 550lbs... I'm estimating I'm somewhere around 300/300 to the wheels right now, and may go up a bit in the next year if I get around to bumping injectors. Plus I got a really good deal on the Stage 3 so why not. I put the engine/tranny back in the car tonight. Have about 2-3 hrs left of hooking things back up like exhaust, engine grounds, radiator, bunch of fluids, etc, etc. Then pray that I didn't forget something important... :lol:

I can't wait to see how it all feels. I've had to baby a slipping OEM DM clutch/flywheel for a while now. Once all back together, I'll have the Southbend Stage 3 Daily, OEM SMFW, Billet fork/pivot, and Moore Blast plates. That's a 4lb lighter flywheel, plus a 4.44 final drive instead of a 4.11. Anxious to see how it drives :-D

Getting close now. Clutch is installed, Southbend Stage 3 Daily that I picked up slightly used. Going to install the Verus fork and mate the tranny back up. Have the last couple hoses coming in today, might actually be able to try to drop it all back in. Praying I haven't forgotten anything that would require me to pull it back out... Things still to do: - Drill out the one last sheared bolt for the turbo bracket () - Swap PS pump - New ground wires - Double/Triple check all hoses/wires - Fluids - A million little details for reconnecting everything once it's back in the car - Flash an updated tune with the TGV codes disabled - Stuff I don't remember at the moment

200-205 is warmer than it should be around town, should be more in the 180s. Are the radiator caps and thermostat OEM? How are you burping it?

I used to use Six Star to fix headgasket problems in the old 90's DOHC motors. Last I knew they still made good stuff. I would agree with not being comfortable with them using silicon to block an oil drain passageway, I just don't see that ending well for you. Is your "catted" downpipe aftermarket or OEM? That's the one piece I would say you need a tune for. I believe you will overboost on a stock tune if you have one because of the reduced restriction in the exhaust flow.

That part name is really wrong. Look up that part number on parts.subaru.com That looks like the OEM boost controller, right over the turbo inlet. That will definitely be a vacuum leak, get it replaced with an OEM part.

A location might help :-)

Personally, I wouldn't go anywhere near an engine building company that provides no warranty on their work (at least for the forged block as mentioned).