Infosecdad

Oh, I didn't consider that... I guess I need a couple more then just to be safe

Met up with utc_pryo and brought him a few parts from the OBXT. Great to meet you finally, love your wagon! Pulled the sun roof from the OBXT, interesting exercise. Had to plug the hole somehow until the scrapper takes it away. Also went to Sam's... found the holy grail of Rotella... 4 Oil changes per 5 gallons. 44 changes for $565 4 changes a year, 11 years of oil. <$13 per oil change :lol: Also, when I swapped the engine I checked the shaft play on the JMP VF52. After 25k miles there is zero shaft play, most impressive. Also, got 25mpg on the hwy and burned no oil in 330 miles. Happy camper right here. Based on calculations: 4.11 rear end, 5th gear, 77mph = 3150 rpm 4.44 rear end, 5th gear, 77mph = 3400 rpm Didn’t really impact the mpg so far in limited testing, curious on long term testing. I am in the power band more at 3400 rpm, takes nothing to accel and A/C on/off is unnoticeable.

Honestly the engine in 05-06 is easier in some ways to work on. It's actually a 257 same as the STi, without the secondary air pump that was added in 07-09. You can add most of that other stuff to a wagon, a few on here have. You don't have to have wagon drone from exhaust, you have to do more than a sedan owner would, but many don't have drone at all (I'm one of them). If the 07-09 engine is more reliable, I haven't read about it; maybe someone can educate me as well :-D With the right setup, you can get these to run for a good long time.

I would go for the 5mt legacy wagon, all things being equal. I’m biased as I have one, but this is my thought process: You can swap a 6mt into a legacy wagon, but you can’t make a spec b into a wagon.

To do #4 plug, you fit in socket, extension, then thin wrench. Break it lose, 1-2 turns, then remove the wrench. Loosen the rest of the way by fingers. Separate the extension from the socket and remove separately. It’s not easy, but after 6-8 times I’m used to it.

It's easy to overcharge those if you aren't paying attention, then it acts like it's empty and won't turn on because the pressure is too high.

What year injectors are you asking about? Side feed or top feed?

And it sounds sweet!

I would, but they are buried in a 20ft deep storage unit and I suspect you need them before I can buy a house

I've had to buy them in gross from amazon... Not my favorite method of securing things.

Side feeds up to 740cc or so is ok, supposedly harder to tune, but doable. Anything bigger should be top feeds, they are much easier to tune from what I’ve read.

Nice. I have a Nexus 7 2013 for BtSSM and movies, bluetoothed to a GROM Audio that's plugged into a 2007-09 factory stereo. Then I have a small amp that all the output goes to that powers the four main speakers and two tweeters, along with the factory sub under the driver's seat. It's not much, but I like the sound output/balance.

Agreed, having just done something very similar to that in my driveway; that's a lot of hours.

Depends on what you are going for. If you are bluetooth/wired to the stereo and the sub is still inline for the speaker wiring, you should be fine. If you are doing something else with the wiring so the sub is no longer in the speaker wiring path, then you wouldn't. :-D

Not all 7" displays are the same dimensions. We know that the Nexus 7 2013 fits, but not sure on other displays.

I would say try looking at the South Bend Stage 3 family. I just picked up the SB Stg 3 Daily and it’s daily driveable and supposed to hold up to 450 ftlbs The have some higher rated ones as well.

They are typically two bolts, one on the top, the other diagonally down from that one. Sounds like you found both. You can get to both from above, but the lower bolt is easier to get to from underneath (look up toward the front from behind the front driver side wheel) if you can safely jack the car up. You can reach around/under from above with a wrench or socket wrench if you are patient. You also need to remove the single wire and the nut/wire for the main power on the solenoid.

I really wish I had the right amount of money, but after what I just finished I have a lot of selling to do first

Consider the NGK coil packs from Rock Auto at $60 per. They are made by Diamond as well.

Pull the starter and take it to an auto parts store, they should be able to test it. Sounds like classic starter death.

Mishimoto MMHOSE-STI-08RD will work for upper/lower. It's for the 08+ WRX, but will work for our cars; I have a set on. Might need to trim the upper hose just a bit to make sure it fits cleanly between the radiator and power steering pump if you have a thicker radiator. I use OEM for the small ones.

I wish :-) It was DIY from Amazon. Just some 4mm, 6mm, and 8mm silicon hoses. That took care of most of the vacuum lines.

They are just my color, you should just mail them to me.

I had misfires that I couldn't get rid of after months of testing, fixing, replacing. I'm not sure if it was the Cosmo coils or not, I'm going to ship them back for them to test, then have them come back to me. I may try testing them myself as well, just depends on how much time I have at that point. I have two spare sets of coils, two spare sets of injectors, etc. I also was running 1qt of oil per 1k and other fun with a 200k engine. Halfway through trying to piecemeal a tan -> black interior conversion. So this OBXT could solve/fix a lot of stuff at the same time. It just took a boat ton of labor to do. Now I have a pile of stuff from the OBXT and the LGT to post in the classifieds to help offset the costs.

OCV connector is Blue. There are four Black TGV connectors. Each side has a motor (3 pin) and sensor (2 pin). They are flipped from each other so that the same TGV can be used on either side. One connector is on the front, the other on the back (ie. the 3 pins are diagonal from each other, as are the 2 pins). I just deleted my TGV and found some large heatshrink for the sensor plugs to seal them, and used electrical tape for the larger plugs.