surmiser

My made-in-Japan 6th-gen didn't have a charcoal filter. Before my Takeda intake, I had a K&N direct replacement panel filter that had negligible impact on noise/performance/economy, which is why I decided to upgrade further. That being said, the Takeda is mostly noise unless you tune your car.

Not in Southeast Asia you don't. At least not according to your tool. Please tell me I'm wrong.

Well... I can confirm fitment on the 2.5: http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161125/62ca3a53bdbc9eb93b4e912417c78b95.jpg

FYI, although the Takeda intake I bought from Snake River Performance via eBay was listed as compatible with the 2015 2.5, the sticker on the box I got only listed "2014" compatibility (see pic). But it still came with the correct-length hose so I didn't need to use a coupler, although in hindsight, a coupler would have made for an easier installation since I found it really hard to tighten the hose clamp at the crankcase. No room unless you have a long skinny screwdriver, and even then only from a specific angle. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161124/69ff206308c9ce574d01e56f51409b92.jpg Just hold it in place and estimate the fit. It should be pretty obvious if it'll fit or not. Cuz mine was longer than it needed to be, whereas the short ones some of the guys here ended up with looked way short.

I'm still on my stock Dunlop Sport Maxx 050 which I actually like, but will eventually replace them with Michelin Pilot Super Sport. Both are summer performance tires, not all-season ones.

Sorry I wasn't clearer. I haven't flashed a TH tune to my car yet. I sent my stock tune to TH before I installed my intake. I haven't heard back from him yet. I then installed the Takeda intake and reset the ECU/fuzzy logic. I'm just saying that low-end torque was awful till the ECU had adjusted to the Takeda intake. It did this by itself and it took a day. Today, I copied my stock tune a second time and sent it to TH, in case he finds it helpful. Comparing the first and second stock tune files reveals that they differ in only a single line of code.

Do you know for a fact that EcuFlash/Tactrix pulls AFR data logs in addition to the tune? I'm asking because I suspect it doesn't. Every time I copy my stock tune, it's the exact same file size: 1.3MB. Even after installing my Takeda intake, resetting my ECU, and logging 5 days of AFR data. But what the hell, I just sent Matt my freshly-copied stock tune file anyway, in case it contains any useful data that differs from the original file I sent him pre-ECU-reset.

I'm aware that our front suspension differs from 5th-gen. The D2 coilovers are brand new products that explicitly support the 6th-gen BN9. No, I can't personally confirm fitment, but I've researched them enough from D2 distributors, etc, to be confident these aren't repackaged 5th-gen coilovers. And believe me, many folks tried to sell me 5th-gen D2 coilovers. The RS*R coilovers clearly state they will fit BN9 but I've researched them far less than the D2. No one's personally confirmed fitment, true. RS*R does clearly state BN9 compatibility and shows pictures of the BN9, not the BM9 or BMM. I didn't include retailer links because I thought it more important to link to manufacturer sites that state BN9 compatibility. But I believe D2 is widely available in the US, no? They make wheels, big brake kits, etc, and one of the most well known Taiwanese coilover brands. Rakuten, which many BN9 products are available on (a sorta Japanese Amazon marketplace), is a very well known Japanese online marketplace that's international and ships globally. It's as reputable as Amazon, which is why I'd rate them above Japan Parts, but ymmv. Your call. Just trying to help.

If we're still maintaining the consolidated list of aftermarket mods for the 6th gen in the first post, there are now also: Lowering springs: RS*R (aka RSR) Ti2000 series: http://www.rs-r.co.jp/e/script/itemsearch/index.html?LEGACY%20B4&BN9&suspension RS*R (aka RSR) RS*R series: http://www.rs-r.co.jp/e/script/itemsearch/index.html?LEGACY%20B4&BN9&suspension Coilovers: RS*R (aka RSR) Basic*i and Best*i series: http://www.rs-r.co.jp/e/script/itemsearch/index.html?LEGACY%20B4&BN9&shock D2 Street, Sport, Circuit and Rally Asphalt series: http://www.d2-race.com/tablepage.aspx?dsn=1911&csn=1338 Axleback exhausts: Fujitsubo Authorize S: https://www.fujitsubo.co.jp/prods/detail/000000000000002258/00000000000000005033/00001662 Kakimoto ClassKR: http://www.kakimotoracing.co.jp/image_b71355.html

The SSD shouldn't suck in any water either because it's just tubing plus a panel filter to replace your stock panel filter. Filter is the same size, direct fit. That's one of the reasons it's cheaper. The Takeda is tubing plus a big cone filter (bigger than the stock panel filter) in an enclosure that replaces half of our airbox, and therefore doesn't suck in water.

Before someone inevitably tells you to use the Search function (though that's a good idea), let me briefly say that: - the aFe Power Takeda intake you're presumably referring to should indeed keep water and gunk out of your engine at least as well as the stock airbox. My 2.5 is also my daily driver (and my only car, actually), and I just ordered a Takeda intake. - you should probably read more reviews from those of us who have used various sway bars before biting the bullet. At least the 19mm and 20mm are priced similarly so cost isn't a differentiator. Go any thicker and the cost jumps. But if you're worried about 20mm being too thick vs the 19mm, don't because the 22mm one I'm using doesn't feel extreme at all. - if you're primarily interested in performance, and bang for buck is important, you might want to consider just getting your ECU tuned instead of worrying about intake and exhaust. Check out the 6th Gen Tuning Thread for valuable info.

I'm using wheel specs that aren't in the consolidated tables on Pg.1 of this thread, so I thought I'd share. Swapped out my stock 18" cast wheels for used Prodrive GC-010E (http://www.prodrive-japan.com/en/products/gc_010e_forged) 18 x 8 ET43 forged wheels, which are a discontinued model. Weighed in at 8.2kg (18.1 pounds) vs 11.3kg (24.9 pounds) stock. They had lots of kerb rash and gold wheels aren't my thing, so I had a shop repair them and respray them gloss black. Before respray: http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161101/4c8581fed66d629e1e1f8214954f0204.jpg After respray: http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161101/b4073d1e7857f66ceff0f94006c9ae65.jpg Reused my stock 225/50R18 Dunlop Sport Maxx 050 tyres because I like the comfort and the way they fill up the wheel arches without making me splurge on bigger wheels: http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161101/c3958f65c6ae0ebb63d90eba1c9c658c.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161101/37dd37158651254c51813f2b00eb522d.jpg They poke 18.6mm more than stock - enough to look a bit more flush, while still giving me space within the arches to lower the car without worrying about the rubbing I was getting in the rear, back when I was using 25mm spacers with the stock wheels: http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161101/492835b9d5f02f180c719de7588320be.png As you can see, plenty of clearance for my AP Racing front calipers: http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161101/64f7799c750ebf88cdf5ed23f2bea024.jpg Rears are of course fine too: http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161101/0802f17fdadbba83bab4f1b9b9b6600a.jpg

Thanks. So in order to ensure that Matt's tune takes into your account your intake and exhaust mods, you need to do them first, reset the ECU, drive around long enough to log the new AFR data, then pull your stock tune to send to Matt. Good to know.

You're running the Takeda intake, right? Did you get Matt to tweak the tune to accommodate the increased air intake? If not, do you think the Takeda contributed at all to your power improvements?

Thanks! A 10% improvement is in line with what tuners in my area are estimating for a tuned 6th gen. And the new update Matt just announced might eke out a teeny bit more. Excellent.

Others are more qualified to reply on other points, but I've been lurking here long enough to say that it's a tune specifically made for the 6th-gen Legacy BN9 (with variants for 2.5, 3.6, and optimisation for different fuel grades), initially based on maps for the 5th-gen Legacy BM (since the FB25 engine was carried over), but now thoroughly optimised for the 6th-gen. Even if you could find another tuner in your area who'd be willing to tune your car in person (and there are several where I am), he'd likely be starting from scratch. How much time he'd invest in fleshing out the new tune would depend on demand for the tune, and the 6th-gen is relatively rare. Whereas Matt's tune is already mature, running on several cars, doesn't seem to have blown up anything (yet), and only resulted in higher oil temperatures. Chime in folks if I'm way off base here.

All of those sound like very worthwhile improvements. Forgive my tunnel vision, but any further HP gains on the dyno, please? Seems like there really should be more than just 10-or-so horses.

My impression is that Throttlehappy's tune for the 2.5 has evolved a fair bit since tigger73 did his first dyno run posted on Pg.1 of this thread. Has anyone dynoed power improvements for Throttlehappy's latest 93 octane tunes for the 2.5? Thanks in advance.

I think a key consideration is whether or not you plan to tweak your suspension setup further. If the sway bar is the only suspension mod you're going to make, then you can sorta estimate the result, and I suspect there's not a, say, US$150 difference between the 20mm fixed and the 22mm adjustable. But if after you add the bar, you then get springs/shocks/coilovers, different front sway bar, alter offset with new wheels, or even reduce unsprung weight through wheel and brake upgrades, you might find the need to adjust your rear sway bar to compensate for those other variables. Also, a brake upgrade is a lot more demanding on your suspension setup since you'll find yourself braking later and harder, and you might find yourself wishing for an mm of sway bar adjustment. Or not. Just highlighting some considerations. Let us know what you choose.

There's mechanical strength, and then there's heat capacity. I believe CVTs often fail because the CVT fluid overheats. Some guys here have installed CVT coolers to fight that. But that introduces an additional point of failure because I hear that CVT coolers tend to leak (or at least the ones used here do), so you'll have to check for leaks daily. That's the main reason I haven't done it yet.

I had a shop install the 22mm Whiteline for me today. Chatted with the boss for a while, turned back and the bar was already installed hump up. Went for a test drive for the heck of it. Yup, it bumped. Reinstalled it hump down. Sorted. There are enough review of fat rear sway bars here that I don't have much to add other than gleeful satisfaction. But I don't recall anyone talking much about how it affects urban driving, so let me do that. I drive almost exclusively in the city. Every single trip involves multiple speed bumps. As if that's not bad enough, my office carpark and the ramp entering my kids' school both force me to cross them at an angle. Pre-22mm-bar, those maneuvers left my 2.5 rocking left and right, even at low speeds. So I gritted my teeth for harshness with the new sway bar and, guess what, I simply stopped rocking sideways - without any added harshness or discomfort. I guess I'm saying that it's been pure improvement for me with no downsides yet, and that it passes my main worry - a zillion speed bumps - with flying colours. So, thanks for the reviews and recommendations, everyone. I'm glad I went for the 22mm. Let's see if I still say that after I push the car a bit.

You're running 245 width tyres, right? Do you think you'd have better 0-100 times with stock tyres, and therefore less rolling resistance? I can't imagine not having S mode because of the improved low-end torque and the way it stays in gear much longer when you use the paddles in auto mode, vs I mode where it switches back to auto too quickly. I also only switch back to I mode on the highway to lower the revs (typically by about 500 rpm). Otherwise it's S all the way. So do USDM models have their own unique mode that is neither I, nor S, but something else? I wonder.