surmiser

Definitely looks good with the original tires. I definitely prefer our stock tires (225/50R18) on 8" wide wheels compared to the stock 7.5". Gives a slightly more neutral sidewall profile compared to the very obvious bulge with the stock setup.

Looks good [emoji106] Similar specs to my previous Prodrives (18x8 +43). Cast or forged? How are you liking them? What rubber are you using?

Hey man, good to see you over here! I've enjoyed watching your 5th-gen evolve too. Thanks for the kind words, lol. Well, like any good junkie, I've got an excuse for my mod spree. I figure that the earlier I get stuff done, the longer I have over the lifespan of my car to amortise the cost. Of course, this only applies to parts that aren't subject to wear and tear. Also, some of my parts (like my wheels and rear brakes) depend on each other (rear brakes couldn't clear my old 18" wheels), so I've had to do them together.

The Syms is newer than the Kakimoto. Both Japanese brands are very reputable. I'm using a Kakimoto axleaback exhaust so I can vouch for Kaki build quality. Bear in mind that the Syms is one of the most expensive intakes for 6th gens, mainly because it's made from carbon fiber. Another thing to note is that both intakes will probably be relatively quiet vs an aFe Takeda. Based on my dyno runs with only a Takeda intake and an earlier version of my ECU tune, an ECU tune's recommended, but will only give a handful of horses (about 5hp at the wheels on a 2.5i) without an exhaust. But intake and exhaust plus tune can indeed give a dyno-proven (in my experience, ymmv) 10+% increase in hp and torque, though that's a different topic.

What, a throttle controller? I wouldn't worry about it stressing the CVT because it doesn't actually increase power output. It's sorta the equivalent of having a heavier foot. And if you're really worried about CVT longevity, you could always Invest in a CVT cooler, though that's another topic entirely.

Although I haven't used it personally, it (and throttle controllers in general) are extremely popular where I am. A Levorg buddy of mine is using it and is very happy with it. It basically tricks the ECU into opening the throttle wider than it normally wood for a given throttle pedal position. End result is a more sensitive throttle. I'd only use it if you don't plan on getting an ECU tune, which can give you all that and more. It also plugs into you car via the OBD2 port, which is a consideration in case you want to use the OBD2 port for other things, and don't want to use an OBD2 port splitter. What brands are the springs and coilovers?

I think it's probably the same shape as the USDM one, even though I don't have a detachable exhaust cut-out on the right, unlike USDM 2.5s. Here's a current pic: And because I don't have any straight-on shots of the back, here's an older shot before the winglets and reverse/indicator light overlays: It's not universal. It's a carbon fibre one made specifically for our 6th-gens, and they also make it polyurethane. But I got it from China, like most of my bodykit, and unless you can find a freight forwarder who will ship stuff to the US for you, I don't think there's any way for you to order it. Here's the reference link anyway: https://world.taobao.com/item/539601099941.htm?fromSite=main.

Thanks! It's not a real diffuser, lol. I wrapped the bottom portion of the rear bumper in black vinyl. I then bought universal winglets/spats from Chinese online mall Taobao (which doesn't ship to USA afaik but there are many similar alternatives from eBay that I almost bought) and cut them to fit against my OE splash guards. Voilah! Instant fake diffuser for this ricer I guess the same approach I took should work with a dual exhaust system. Don't see why not. Go for it!

GFG Forged FM 914 19x9 ET35 wheels with 245/40R19 Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3 rubber. No one's posted about fitment for these specs before, so just sharing what it looks like. But it's not for everyone, because I had to roll my rear fenders all the way (including shaving and cutting) to avoid rubbing while running comfortable coilover damper settings and sane camber (just over a degree). In terms of overall rolling radius, I'm at just marginally smaller than stock, which means negligible speedo error.

You aren't the first to use the STI wheels. Tigger73 has sold his Legacy/Liberty already but he used to run 245/45R18 iirc. Explore this thread and you'll see. I'd guess 255/45 would get you what you want without going for a 50 profile tire. More choices among 45 profile tire models. I'm curious: Why do you want the bulge? Is it for looks, rim protection or some other reason?

Do you mean you want to keep stock tire width? Stock 225 width would be really stretched on 8.5J wheels, so unless you're going for the stretched look and are willing to put up with all the downsides, that's probably not the best idea. Or do you mean you're aiming for a vertical sidewall, or one that bulges out slightly, like the stock 225 tires on stock 7.5J wheels? If that's what you mean, I'd think that 245 width tires should give you something close to a vertical (neutral) sidewall, and if you'd actually prefer a bit of a bulge for tyre protection, you could go for 255 width. And you'd probably want a 50 (stock) or 45 profile. Check out the tables on the first page of this thread for some options, though it hasn't been updated in a while, and won't tell you how much sidewall bulge or stretch you'll get. Do you have a 2.5 or 3.6?

I really appreciate the detailed instructions and thoughts. I ordered one last week and will hopefully be able to confirm fitment on a RHD 2016 2.5 i-S. Looks like a cheaper and less labour-intensive option than swapping out the stock rubber dampener for a PU one, which I haven't been able to find anyway.

Just as long as you're not after flush-with-fender fitment. A 40mm offset will still be noticeably tucked inside the fender. That's not necessarily a bad thing, since the flusher you go, the more conspicuous your fender gap gets, which could be an issue if you're not lowered. Just FYI, anyway. Personally, I regret going with a 43mm offset on my 18x8 wheels.

Thanks for your candour. I've had blown shocks, worn out lower arms, etc, and it really doesn't feel like what I have. Anything mechanical (eg, moving parts) will change slightly with use (movement). And my coilover springs were also brand new. Ymmv.

Gecko USA. They have a Facebook Page: https://www.facebook.com/GeckoUSA

After 2 months on Gecko coilovers, here's a short update: They took 3 weeks to break in. During that time, they were too harsh and unforgiving, especially on uneven asphalt. After 3 weeks, they became significantly more comfortable without losing the benefits in stability, cornering and road-holding they provided. I didn't require any height adjustment after the break-in period. So what I've got now is drastically improved handling, at the price of only slightly increased bumpiness. And as far as I can tell, the bumpiness is just a necessary consequence of my suspension responding more quickly, and therefore detecting more road surface imperfections. Whereas I found the stock springs and shocks would sometimes take way too long to rebound. I should add that the small difference in ride quality between stock and my Gecko coilovers comes from 6th-gen stock suspension being noticeably stiffer than many other cars I've driven, such as the current-gen Hyundai Sonata and Kia Optima K5, and the Mk7/Mk7.5 VW Golf TSI and Variant. So, I'm even happier now with my Gecko suspension than when I first had them installed. I do wish they had independent rebound damping adjustment, which I'd have happily paid a premium for, but that's about it.

Ideally, yes. But between having the Whiteline's hump down and not using at all, I'll take the hump facing down.

I know what you mean. And it makes the most sense for the hump to face upwards for the sake of ground clearance if nothing else (something especially relevant to me since my car's lowered 1.5 inches). But otherwise I can't imagine any other ill effects.

My 2.5 has the stock exhaust and my 22mm Whiteline fits fine. The only issue was it bumping against the spare tire compartment until I reversed the hump in the bar to face downwards.

What do you mean "run"? We'll try to help you as best we can, either in this thread (if on topic), or via PM (if off topic).

Why not just tune your existing ECU?

I know this is probably not what you had in mind, but model envy can also be fixed with aftermarket mods. Tweaked suspension? Thanks but I'm already on coilovers. Etc.

That's the idea. That doesn't sound right. Try using a different USB cable to see if that makes your ECU connection more stable? That's good enough. As long as RomRaider can talk to the ECU via some protocol, your ECU is supported in the logging definitions, or your tuner scripts up a logging definition for your ECU, you should be able to data log your car.

Good call, I forgot about that. Try changing connection protocols; it should be SSM/OBD.

First things first - when you connect your laptop to your car via Tactrix, and then start RomRaider, does RomRaider tells you it's connected, or that it's waiting for your ECU to respond? If you're not even connected, then that's a connection problem (software drivers, etc). If you're already connected, you should be able to see your ECU's data in real time, even if your ECU isn't supported in the logger definitions. If you can see real-time data but can't log, then the solution would be to update your logger definitions (if you can find those that support your ECU), or get your tuner to create a logger definition for your ECU.