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My son took my 09 LGT to the Subaru dealer where he works for an alignment a few weeks ago. Nothing was really wrong with how it drove but it had worn the inside edges of the front tires over the course of three years since I bought it. He said one of their master mechanics worked on it and got it as good as he could without going into bolt replacements, etc. The camber on the two right wheels is just slightly out of spec. Pic is of the before (top) and after (bottom) angles. Should the two that are out of spec be of concern to me? The car drives perfectly so unless there is a reason to do something I am leaning towards just running it the way it is now.

When the line goes like this is it a 100% loss of braking or does the system still work but only two of the four wheels brake and the pedal goes way down?

That is for the factory Harmon Kardon subwoofer. The amp is under the passenger side seat.

So I have procrastinated on install for a year. Thinking about this again. 2009 LGT here. I have a stock XM radio and a small magnet mount antenna instead of the windshield hockey puck style. Based on your responses I think I will just Velcro the antenna to the dash on the driver side up by the defrost vents. For the receiver unit, I have not been able to find the OEM metal mounting brackets so I am expecting to just fashion my own mounting system/brackets out of thin metal stock I can find lying around. This antenna is supposed to be external so does anyone foresee issues with it on the dash vs outside on the roof?

What are thoughts/knowledge re using the longer 15208AA15A OEM filter in place of the 15208AA12A filter on an EJ engine? We have 2x EJ253, 1x EJ255, and 1x FA20 here. The FA20F (2018 Forester) uses the larger filter. Is it acceptable to use the longer filter on the EJ engine? Needing only one filter on hand will simplify things a bit. Or might the longer filter on the EJ pick up added heat from the exhaust header surrounding it?

Good idea. Gave it a try. All I can see is the lower rear curve of the door and a shiny glass reflection blocking the view where I think the two bars are located. I'll try my makeshift usb endoscope down this small gap when the window is down...

Does anyone know offhand where the side impact bars are located in the rear doors? I need to have PDR done on a large door ding that is just above the bump strip. I'd like to avoid having to pay the added $ for what they would call "obstructed access" when they do the PDR. I kick myself because I just finished replacing the left two doors on my silver Legacy ~2 months ago and I forgot to note where these bars are when the door was off and apart.

Doors are off. Replacements are ready. The hardest piece so far is to get the original door lock cylinder out. The lock cylinder wiring cable retainer inside the door is hard to get to and remove without breaking it.

Thanks jaylew. Good info. Yeah, the front fender is already off of the donor vehicle so access to the hinge bolts should be easy. We actually got the driver side front fender from the same donor vehicle already on our legacy a few months back. I think I will try to find the rear door disconnect details in the FSM. I sometimes try to avoid the FSM since it is challenging to find the right info in a 6000+ page PDF. It is good to have though when needed.

Thanks jaylew. Now I know not to cut the harness at the door jamb. Is the rear door disconnect setup similar in that the plug is inside the car in the b-pillar?

Where is the door wiring harness disconnect on these cars? 2008 2.5i here. Wife hit a deer tonight and both drivers side doors are toast. I've got a line on replacement doors same color. Wondering if I can just cut the wires out by the door hinge area or if the door harness plug/wires might extend into the car body. Trying to get new doors without having to splice together all the wiring.

Moving the seat all the way up and all the way back with a restart after each results in no difference the airbag light is always on when the engine is running. All of the overhead indicator lights seem to work because they illuminate for a few seconds at engine startup. We did an informal test on the pass seat occupant detector... 1) A nominal load on the seat (like 2x cases of adult pop) makes the car start beeping like it should with an occupant there but not belted. 2) I started the car normally and then made sure the initial test was complete so the pass airbag indicator lit on the far right 'off' lamp. 3) My wife got in the the pass side front seat and and soon as she sat down and closed the door the indicator switched to the 'on' lamp. The dash airbag light was always on. As far as I can discern the overhead indicator lamps and the pass seat occupant sensor seem to be operating exactly like they are supposed to do.

The airbag dash light has been on in my 08 Legacy 2.5i for quite a while (2 yrs) and I'd like to get it figured out and fixed. So far I've tried the overhead console resolder trick which made no difference. I also replaced the overhead console with two other known good units (one from my 09 LGT) - again no difference. The pass airbag was replaced about 2 yrs ago for the recall. The airbag light was already on at that time and the Subaru Technician told me the issue was the overhead console. I bought the Ancel AD610 scan tool which will read ABS and Airbag codes and it shows two codes. * 26 Passenger's Airbag indicator failure * 72 Passenger's Airbag failure Unsure what to try next since the pass airbag has been replaced and the overhead console has been replaced as well. Could there be a wiring fault somewhere? When the airbag light first started coming on it would only be on once in a while but then it started staying on permanently. Trying to find the relevant troubleshooting section in the 08 FSM is proving to be a time consuming task since it is ~6,000 pages in length...

Thanks for the info guys. The 'clock' position I am pretty sure is the orientation of the regulator plug and/or the output terminal in relation to the mounting holes. 10:30 vs 11:00 is a pretty small difference so likely either one would work. Makes sense now why the 2010 is a diff part number due to the different belt setup. The alternator is likely the same and the pulley could be changed to make it work if really necessary. Yesterday after work I took the yard pull $23 alternator to the local auto parts place and they tested it. They said it checks out just fine. I also fixed the other ~2mo old alternator that I blame myself for wrecking the output stub on by not having the connector nut tight enough. Two spares sitting on the shelf for us now.

Does anyone know if there any differences in the alternators for a 2010 Legacy vs a 2009 Legacy? They are different part numbers at the local parts store but the pictures look identical. We have a local u-pull-it yard here and I picked up a spare alternator for my 09 GT yesterday since the charge light lit up briefly yesterday. It came out of an 05 Outback NA but the part number between the 05-09 and the GT vs NA are the same. It was only $23 and has a 30 day warranty. I am leaning towards this alternator not being good since it makes a tick noise on each revolution. I'll stop at the local auto parts place on the way home and have them test it out. Now, the reason for my question above...This is the only Legacy/Outback 05-09 in the yard so if it needs go back they will replace it but since there are no other donor vehicles of the same year I'm not sure what they can do. They do have a 2010 Legacy NA though. Maybe one for a 2008 Impreza or 2010 Forester might work - ?

An Ancel AD610 should read the SRS codes. This is what I used on my 08 Legacy. Airbag light is on in this car. Codes are: 26 Passenger's Airbag indicator failure 72 Passenger's Airbag failure The passenger airbag was replaced under warranty ~2 yrs ago. Light had been on prior to that replacement. The overhead indicator panel has been replaced twice with known good ones (from my 09 LGT). I am unsure what to check next.

The connector post seems to wiggle back and forth a bit. I will tear it down once I get this out and the new one installed.

Based on the alternator pics on website for DBElectrical it appears the red plastic piece is supposed to come off with the cable end. It is trashed and melted onto the alternator post. Unsure where I might source another red plastic cover.

Well, I found where the issue with the charging is. The cable end on the alternator output is really fried. Burned a good chunk of the red protective cap. I can't recall if the red end came with the alternator or not. I am lucky that it did not start a fire. Yes, the cable nut was securely tightened when we put it back together.

Well, this morning the batt light and ebrake warning lights stayed on solid all the way to work. Used my voltmeter and it is at 12.0 volts so I think the alternator I replaced ~2 months ago is not working anymore.

So far we've ruled out the brake master cylinder low sensor. Had it disconnected when son an I went to Menards just now. The parking brake switch seems to be alright when in park with engine running and lights off pulling up down on the parking brake makes the daytime running lights go on and off like they should. I am thinking more towards a funky alternator output now. Got a cheap o-scope arriving today. Where is the place to take readings on a good vs bad ripple/uneven signal from the alternator?

Where are the ground cables that might need checking? I see one behind the fusebox in the engine bay and another down on the bottom of the engine/frame under the battery. Any others to check?

Yep, I read that in the FSM this morning. The fluid low and parking brake switch are in parallel and do effectively the same thing with the dash light. Brake fluid is new ~3 months old and is fully topped off. I just disconnected the plug from the MC reservoir so I guess I will see if that makes a diff or not.

Battery is a new Interstate in December of 2018 so it is pretty new. Battery posts and terminals are freshly cleaned and are solid. I looked at the parking brake switch by pulling the ebrake cover off. It is visible but not too accessible. The single screw holding it on can probably be reached with an angle phillips but the mechanism looks so simplistic (on ebay pics) that I do not see how it might fail unless the electrical connector somehow is shorting to ground. I will check the ground cables next/today. I also ordered a simple oscilloscope today to check out the voltage output from the new alternator based on @08SpecB_DE recommendation. I sold my last old school oscilloscope about a year ago because it was never used and I never thought I'd use it again. New and simple ones are very cheaply priced. Thanks guys for the good ideas on what to check on this issue.

Voltage at the alternator reads ~14.7v whenever the light has come on. Replacement is a reman unit from the local oReilly Auto.