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In the 40k+ that I have owned this car it does not burn any oil but yes I do check it regularly just the same. I've been using Amsoil SS 5w30 since I bought it and do 4k change intervals. Hmmm, now I am second guessing the choice to mod or not. It has been super reliable and mostly a daily driver to get me to work and back. Resale value is of little concern as I will likely own it until it is dead. Maybe I just have the itch since I've been cooped up in my home office for 9 months now. I will think on it for a week or two. BTW, what does the Cobb stage 1 tune do for it?

So what do I need to tune my bone stock 2009 Legacy GT 5EAT? I bought it in 2016 with 36k on it and it now has 78k on the odometer. I am thinking a Cobb Accessport AP3-SUB-003 might be the right tool to transfer a new tune. How do I find someone to help me with the tune setup? Do I need to do anything else to the car before starting on this adventure? I am looking for something only modest to medium power increase - what the trans will take I guess.

Merry Christmas everyone! This will be my last post back to my own thread. I did finish the wiring hookup and figured I'll put some info here in case anyone finds this in the future. I spliced the Outback trailer wire pigtail into mostly the left side taillight wiring after pulling the side trim back. Four of the six wires hook up here - ground, running lights, left turn, and stop lights. I popped the plastic trim on the rear of the trunk off to run two wires from the pigtail over to the other side. Used split wire plastic loom to keep the two wires together and protected from metal edges, etc. The right turn signal hooks up to the right taillight wiring here. For the 12v constant supply, I discovered that there is a fused 12v supply to the trunk dome light. Conveniently, the trunk switch opens/closes the circuit on the ground side of this bulb so I just had to figure out which of the two dome light leads was +12v. I pulled the trim carpet back on the right side too to run the one wire in split plastic wire loom up to the trunk dome light. For all the connections I had been planning on soldering them but since this is all inside and well protected from the elements I used 3M single spade quick wire taps on the car's wiring and then a single spade protected connector crimped onto the pigtail leads. Yes, they are all the same but I figured this would let me easily swap a few around if I had some of them not correct when done. Turned out I had them all figured out correctly and the wire harness works perfectly with the trailer wire adapter made for an Outback/Forester.

Air chisel idea is interesting. Which angle is the best to get at the ball joint? My son's OB will likely need LCAs sometime soon.

I managed to locate a post on subaruoutback.org from 2012 that confirms the pinout for the outback pigtail harness connector. Thanks goes to plain OM for the post and the diagram. It matches what I had reverse engineered from the FSM. https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/2008-trailer-wiring-help.45529/post-430941

I figured out the answer to the small box I mentioned above. Based on the part # it is the fuel pump control module. I need to figure out where to get the 12v+ supply for the pigtail and trailer module from. Based on what I get from checking my son's OB factory plug I will need a 12v constant or switched supply. The trunk dome light looks to be a constant supply so that might work.

This weekend I will be working on splicing in the 6-pin wiring pigtail for the trailer wiring harness into my 09 LGT. The pigtail came from the u-pull-it yard from an 08 OB. My son and I finished up bolting on the trailer hitch part which is not too bad except for the need to drop the rear of the mufflers and center pipe to get the bolts and wrench up in there. I am pretty sure I have figured out the wiring for the 6-pin plug. One that threw me off was pin 1 looks (from the FSM wiring diag) to be 12v+ I now realize this is an active trailer converter that does not draw all the current from the turn and running lights circuit on the car. Checking out behind the drivers side carpeting for the wiring to the rear I noticed there is some gizmo with a bunch of wires running into it and it looks to be bolted to the driver side inner fender/structure of the car inside the left rear fender. Some kind of alarm module or...?

I am not expecting the wire pigtail install to be simple. I still need to get my son's 09 OB into the shop here to double check my interpretation of the six pin plug to make sure I have each wire correct. Since I'd rather not cut any of the wire harness in my LGT I am thinking on removing a short bit of the jacket on the appropriate wires in the trunk and then solder for a good connection and wrap with electrical tape. It won't be like the factory harness in an OB but it should function properly if I sort out which wire hooks to where.

This morning my son and I mounted up a new trailer hitch on my 09 LGT. This weekend I will try and meld an 08 Outback wiring pigtail for the light hookup into the LGT. On Wednesday I reverse engineered the wiring/pinout for the six connector plug using the FSM.

Yeah, change the fluid at least 3x times if you are doing a drain and refill. That gets it like 80%+ renewed. One drain/fill is not enough to make a big difference. I would not use the stop slip additive. If it still slips then it needs a rebuild or replacement. These are not that expensive at a salvage yard.

Yesterday I swapped out to the winter set of wheels/tires - Michelin X-Ice on my LGT and my son took it to work to give it a detail and wash. Let the snowfall commence...

Yeah, just looking at the FSM now I see that is the case. No wiring connector on the sedans. I will have to go find an Outback maybe a Forester at the u-pull-it-yourself and cut out the wiring and connector to splice it into my sedan. My understanding is that it amounts to the following connections. Ground Brake lights + Running lights + Left turn + Right turn +

Where is the location of the factory trailer light hookup on an 09 LGT? I seem to recall it was a small white connector at the right rear under the panel on my son's 09 Outback. Its it the same for the Legacy or not?

No, that will not fit a 08-09 2.5i NA engine.

I was enough worried about it that I disconnected one of the heater core hoses and blasted air through there to force any water back to the engine block so it could drain out as much as possible. I don't disagree with Max - the green coolant works just fine too.

The green and the blue coolant should not be mixed as they are different chemistries and are incompatible. As mentioned a flush after draining as much green out as possible with distilled water is probably enough to get almost all of the green coolant out. Keep in mind that once you drain the distilled water solution there will still be an amount of water in there and if you use a 50/50 pre-mixed blue P-HOAT coolant the end result will be a higher freeze temp due to the water that was still in there. IMO, the color of the P-HOAT fluid does not matter at all. Whatever wally mart has on sale is what I use.

I would not think those are related

Thanks guys. I now know that my title states hoses to the turbo when the ones I was looking at were to the oil cooler. I rarely need to get under this car for any reason so I forgot that was down there by the oil filter. I am going to take the top cover off this weekend and check out all the hoses that might be back there next to hot things or that look like they might need replacement. This car is 12+ years old now so trying to prevent any issues before they might happen.

Thanks guys. I will have my son order these when he is at work today since he works at the local Subaru dealer. Now wondering if I should do the hoses back by the turbo since I am at it. Originally I had planned on doing just the ones down by the exhaust but back there it gets HOT too. Looks like two hoses. One looks to be just a straight piece of hose so I will use some coolant line I have here. The other one has two bends and it looks like a metal heat shield around it. Do these generally get replaced as well?

Yes, that is what I was trying to describe - the first pic linked there - the one on the left. I finally got a picture of it. I had not thought about changing the pipe as well but it is about an inch from the exhaust manifold and shows some surface rust. The link to the opposedforces diagram in the third link you had there has what I am looking for although it lists those items for 05-07 only. I will try to find the same diagram for the 09. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_5/lubrication_system/oil_cooler_engine/illustration_1/ I am not sure if the metal pipe should be replaced as well. It shows only surface rust not like in those pics. Maybe if it is cheap enough I'l just replace that as well. I am on the fence

I am planning on draining and renewing the antifreeze in my 09 LGT soon and I think I will replace the radiator hoses and small coolant lines down by the exhaust while I have it apart. I have the radiator hose and the two ~1" bypass hoses on the driver side of the water pump. I need to get the ~1" coolant hoses that I think go to the turbo cooling system. Hard to see down there without disassembling it. I have the part# for the short 1" line off the water pump pass side that has a 90* bend. What about replacing the ~1" hose that is right next to the exhaust and the cat converter more towards the pass side? Having a hard time finding the part number for this one.

I will need to locate a box that is the right size so give me a few days here on that. Yes, I had done the HID conversion on this 08 Legacy 2.5i a few years back. My 09 LGT had HIDs when I bought it 4 yrs ago and they are far superior and maintain a super sharp top spread cutoff for the light pattern. This light housing is complete with the only exception being the two prong electrical connector for the original halogen bulb.

Yes it is OEM and was new when replaced in Jan/Feb 2019. You are welcome to have it for your measurements. All I ask is you cover the cost of shipping it from 55044 to where you are.

Headlight is replaced and seems to work just fine even with the smudge of whatever on the lens. Does anyone want a ~19mo old headlight that has a crack by where the turn signal part is?

Lots of good thoughts guys. Thanks. I bet it is a bit of butyl sealant that is smudged on the lens. I've decided to just run the unit as-is and not worry about it. After installed I'll make sure to check out the light pattern, etc to make sure nothing bad is going on there.