jaylew

If i roll coal too much, I might throw a piston through the block from detonation.

Amending the sticker would be hilarious! Each year there is just a number given out to cross off the last years date. Perpetual 2345678 etc.

 

21 hours ago, SubOperator said:

Our plan is to head out on Thursday and start back Sunday. Will be in 2 cars as last year - BRZ and LGT. Let me know what your thoughts are.

Ok, if there is space I may ask to catch a ride (can take the conversation to texting). I was leaning towards this option if possible but now my wife and I just picked up a rescue Malamute last week that we are working through some separation anxiety  so we'll see how she is doing in a few weeks, this might be the nail in the coffin for my ability to attend this year  .  On topic of ECM (throw back to swag from last year's meet), @JJBerk thanks for the branded travel dog bowl, came it clutch!!!

Preaching to the choir when it comes to tire choice. This jetta that I totaled was FWD but rocked winter tires and plowed past all the jeeps and subies rocking "all seasons". The desire for AWD would still be paired with winter tires, but only to truly dominate. I drive into the most heinous winter conditions, so all the traction would be nice (again not needed)

also the irony of you all arguing to get a FWD shitbox over awd is hilarious as we are poised to meet up again for our exclusively AWD vehicles haha

 

back to the regularly scheduled meet conversation... @SubOperator when do you plan on heading out for the trip?

I am kinda open to the audi, but my knowledge of them is that any engine work on like a V6 is a pain, but then again I haven't looked too much into it. If its a wagon replacement, then it has to be manual.

I have joked about a miata with a roof box and studded tires would be hysterical to roll up in at the ski slopes

@KZJonny That is on my radar. My current top options are

This manual X5 cause its cool and can tow 6k lb (though im not a fan of crossover/suv's)

An 08/09 outback in manual is also on the table cause I have so many spares from the GT that its "easy" to get running.

An E91 manual awd bmw wagon. I am familiar with that platform and could be good

I am considering an AWD toyota siena just to keep things odd as that could be a solid winter skiing car

I have seen a 2014 outback with the 6 speed, but I am totally unfamiliar with that FA engine platform and reliability.

 

ok, so I have a wrench that has been thrown into my plans to attend. I tested the laws of physics with my daily and lost. I rear ended a car that full stopped at a yield while I was looking over my shoulder for traffic that I had to merge with. Both myself and the other driver are fine, only my ego is ruined...and my daily (VW TDI Wagon). I was originally planning on driving out in my GT (still limping a long) knowing that I had my daily to fall back on when I get home. Well now that I am down to only my GT, I am cautious to drive it that far without a fall back daily. I am in the market to find a replacement (manual awd wagon like a 08/09 outback, forester, bmw are all options). If I can secure a replacement before the event then count me back in but otherwise I might have to bow out for this year purely for self preservation.

 

Because I have been calculated in the headcount cost this whole time, I will still contribute towards my bed cost even if I do indeed not make it out.

It has been a minute. I wish had been able to take all the feedback and build a shopping list by now but that is not the case.

@KZJonny thank you for the feedback! That is good to know. Maybe someone going to the ECM 2024 will be able to help out with a spare set of heads. I have assumed that the heads will be a lot of work and more than just a routine decking haha (see your comment about oil consumption). Good info to keep in mind. Thanks!

15 hours ago, m sprank said:

I had a few customers that were always willing to throw paychecks down the money pit and buy anything advertised as "jdm" or "upgrade".  I am sure I contributed to the demise of several marriages. Hell, I got sued by some kids mom for the engine build he and his dad ordered.  Her credit card covered the tab.  I had signed estimates and invoices.  I consider myself reformed for telling people to not blow it up.  Do as I say, not as I do. 

My wife was not impressed when I read her this comment out loud haha!

 

thank you for the gentle encouragement to spiral out of control. I can stop you at the suspension refresh rabbit hole....I already did that about 20k miles ago. The chasis is basically new, hence the desire to update the engine. Also the reason to not go buck wild on this is I also desire to get more wagons and a kei truck, which requires money, amongst other hobbies haha

 

19 hours ago, Max Capacity said:

I thought you knew to follow my build. I think you know to see my "click here" link. I ran that ej257 on stock fueling tuned on ESP's dyno at 21psi with the vf52. The stock injectors had over 306,000 miles when I sold the wagon.

 

It really is that easy. The ej257 was still great some 150,000+ miles later.

@Max Capacity Your build will be quite close to mine. It is definitely one I followed / will be following. Just thought I'd open up to more input (the "while I am in there" equivalent of research)

 

18 hours ago, NORULZleggy said:

Please go VF52 at the least. Over build the car and then tune it for 320 and you will be very happy. I followed Max Cap, and added in tons more performance stuff. I search and got deals. I could tune it for more boost and power but, the trans and block would like it. You would be surprised how many feeling you hurt with that power. Oh do not cut corners, and make sure you add some GSC goodies to your heads.

@NORULZleggy I will likely stay vf40, given I already have that on hand / have a spare. Also with what Jmp can whip up, I think it'll perform just as well if not better than a stock VF52. Good to know about the GSC parts. I am not really familiar with what upgrades to do in the heads vs replace with stock

 

15 hours ago, SubOperator said:

Great info already here, what can I possibly add? Some thoughts, in no particular order:

- go head bolts, not studs;

- JMP turbo is a great idea. I've been happy with BNR16G running Stage2 tune with catless uppipe and catted CNT downpipe;

- on gauges, unless it's a must for you then prioritize per budget;

- OEM head gaskets;

- OEM seals/gaskets everywhere;

- Fluiddampr is a great idea. I felt the difference on mine right away;

- I do  not know if car is modded? What about catless OEM up-pipe (05 STI on mine, $50 on nasioc), and downpipe? No point in having JMP turbo with stock downpipe imho;

- when shopping for head gaskets/injector seals etc, go OEM; also, do not buy a seal kit unseen - check the manufacturing date. It may be wiser to buy all those separately to make sure they are manufactured recently. Seal kit is convenient for sure, has many small seals that are hard to find separately.

- oil pump? Water pump? I understand these are getting replaced;

- new engine mounts;

- new grounding straps;

- new starter? Can be replaced later but give it a thought;

- aftermarket oil line for that sexy new turbo?

- solid silicone turbo inlet is fine,a bitch to install but fine after.

- I guess new clutch and flywheel once the engine is out? May be Exidy Stage 2. Think about new clutch fork and TSK3 TOB kit.

Now I am not sure about the new AVCS, your call. With the mileage I think either new SB or rebuilt SB is a must. Heads should get full workout - valve seats, seals, springs and valves inspected and replaced if needed. Heads resurfaced.

If heads will get valve seats done, ask the shop how they will set the clearances. The one I used grinds valve stems to match, and it's been good. I did not have to get new buckets.

The Subaru grey sealant is great, can be found on Amazon too. There is very similar Toyota sealant. Do not go gorilla on it during application - too much can be applied very easily, ask me how I know.

Be careful disconnecting connectors around the engine, at this age they are fragile. While on connectors, perhaps good idea to replace coil pack connectors - I expect most will break when you disconnect them.

If you need any tools to borrow, let me know, I should have some and I am close. Unfortunately sold my engine hoist and engine stand.

@SubOperator thanks for the detail. Up pipe already catless. good to know on the DOM for the seal kit. Water pump will be replaced with new timing belt. Oil pump, idk do I get a new one or keep the existing one? all motor/trani mounts are ~20k miles old. Starter is ~40k miles old. Clutch is stock exidy wrx smfw ~20k old. I might swap that for the same unit Max has. His clutch pedal felt way lighter than mine. Engine harness has had any plastic conduit removed and replaced by the high heat tessa tape, and wrapped in a heat blanket. Connectors can be repined if they break (already done on some of the connectors). Thanks for the tooling offer. We'll see what I need. I do have a hoist and engine stand...this is my second high mileage subaru, these are a necessity haha

 

13 hours ago, utc_pyro said:

I got tagged so I feel like I must reply, even though I’m at 2 years post having an LGT and my old one was killed by a drunk driver.

Your plan looks fine, but please look at other options than the AVO intercooler. I had one for a while, and though it was great due to the marketing, but as soon as I instrumented it found that it truly performs horribly. As in somehow significantly worse than the stock intercooler horribly. I was seeing 200F+ temperatures after 2-3 back to back 2nd gear pulls.

It’s really worth the spend to go with the Grimmsped one (or its clones) or jump right into the Air-Water setup you mentioned considering. It’ll perform much better and you want be chasing crazy knock events after multiple pulls.

Actually come to think about it the AVO might have contributed to when I blew my first motor. It lifted a head after a high speed interstate mountain climb. If it was knocking due to heat saturation that would have done it.

@utc_pyro hey any knowledge is useful. thanks for the info on the intercooler. I do have a lower mileage stock unit that isn't blown out yet (thanks Max Cap for the hook up). Maybe sticking stock for now and then going full bore into the air to water cause that would be awesome.

Yeah, just because of regulation changes hindering COBB and alike, I will try to stick to open source

14 hours ago, seanyb505 said:

My most common thoughts:

- moroso pickup and stock pan. Way less $ for something that won't see competition. 

- intercooler?

- tuner can recommend which fuel pump they like

- arp head studs. Drop in solution. 

- "The right stuff" for Subaru gray bond substitute or whatever. Readily available, comes in cheez whiz can for easy application 

- Engine gasket set. Buy for your heads. For reasons related only to availability of rebuildable heads, I used D25 heads for my 2005 car. I bought the gasket set for the 2011 wrx I used heads from. Maybe you can pick and choose which gaskets you need individually, though that gets super time consuming.

 

Thinking about your budget now as my mind goes to "while you're in there" town.

Maybe do a compression and leak down test on the current block. I can see spending $4k on block, turbo, heads, tune and fluid damper. See what you can reuse. 

@seanyb505 There will be plenty of "while I am in there" stuff I am sure. If I were a betting man (which I am not) my budget will likely go over by $500-$1000. For science reasons, I plan to do a compression/leak down before I fire up the parts cannon. Who knows, could throw this whole plan up in the air. I'll have to see what kind of shape my current heads are even in before I worry about rebuilding the existing ones or looking elsewhere

 

15 hours ago, blackobxt said:

Man I feel left out, these were basically the standards for my build but this one has less power lol. Goal was to get 200,000mi out of the new setup with reliability over additional power. I’m sitting right at 100,000mi right now and I’m running 18-20psi out of a 16g. Haven’t had any motor problems yet.

@blackobxt my bad. Like I said, I was quickly throwing this together to just get it going so I am not doing all my deliberating the night I start placing parts orders. It was a shotgun of people tagging so bound to still be missing people that would be good contributors haha

14 hours ago, Enlight said:

I attest . The response on that thing is pretty instantaneous and peppy. @jaylew I think you would get a kick out of seeing your car respond in that way. But question, did I miss any events that prompted you refreshing your heads? Do any compression and/or leakdown tests? If those look good...

@Enlight The engineer in me has been wanting to do the compression/leak down for the longest time. The scarredy cat in me has been putting it off for 5 years. Easier to stick my head in the ground and just keep adding oil every 300 miles. Its gotten me by for the past 60k miles haha

 

12 hours ago, m sprank said:

How many miles on the original engine?  Sometimes, less is more. 

-You can spend money on all the "upgrades", but I bet the stock configuration fits your needs just fine. 

-Studs are nice, but they limit your ability to perform work after the install.  Cant pull a head in car with studs.  Just saying. 

-Pan and pick up are nice, but failures are rare.

-Do not go for a solid intake pipe.  Vibration is your enemy. 

-New AVCS gears, valves and an oil cooler are a great idea. 

-NO AOS.

-Fuel pump not a bad idea, going through the wiring and all the vacuum lines/fuel lines is a good idea. 

-My gut says stick to more of the "what can I do to bring her back to new" rather than "what can I do to blow her up". 

 

@m sprank 265k on original motor. I agree on the studs argument. For what I am doing, bolts will be a good limiting factor for me to not get the itch to get greedy on power numbers once I feel a fully fresh motor haha. Yeah the more I think about it the AOS is likely overkill for a stock motor. I want to do it right, so the "bring it back to new" mentality is definitely there

8 hours ago, boxkita said:

@m sprank says stick with up pipe that's flexible. not arguing with that, although mine was the Cobb Inconel version (sr-71 level unobtainium metal) for more than a decade.

The intake piece that partially goes under intake manifold made of silicone with reinforcement from perrin is what I used to replace the stock unit. More than a decade on that without issue.

The getadomtune heater hose addition to the head? that's the snake oil thing. The oem crossover water pipe between the heads? that could use a little cooling help or re-routing.

@boxkita about 20k miles ago, when I had the motor out for new clutch, I replaced all vacuum lines, pcv lines, fuel lines, and coolant lines (including the hard pipe that crosses over top the header). All coolant lines that run anywhere near the exhaust is covered now in a heat protective wrap. Just to stop the rubber from getting brittle too quick, and prevent that crossover pipe from classically rusting out from all the heat cycling. All of this will carry over to the new motor given the young age of the components used.

2 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

You must have forgotten the part where @jaylew had to drop to rear of the whole pack of us going over the hills becuase he couldn't figure out how to turn of the secret agent man smokescreen his car was making. 

I would guess guess that a compression test would register a little low considering the likley state of the rings in that engine, but who knows? It doesn't take long to do one anyway... Be kinda fun to see the numbers. Take bets on who guesses closest? Price is Right rules, whoever gets closest without going over.

@KZJonny You can't be giving away my secrets! I am one of the few LGT's that can roll coal haha

 

 

 

Thank you everyone for the input thus far. I have updated my first post to reflect some of the feedback!

Yeah the whole goal is to continue to enjoy the car for as many miles as possible. The work I have done to the chassis deserves to have a motor to match. I have never known this car to have full stock power or a normal oil consumption rate...somehow with these set backs I have been convinced to stick with the car knowing what it could be haha

i was hoping to avoid a SB build, even if it is with stock bottom end components. Not really inclined for forged anything at this point since I believe staying stock will more than suffice for my goals (i could be wrong and am willing to be proved otherwise!)

thanks for the input. I had the thought in the past of doing the heating mod...just forgot to add it to the list. Thanks for reminding me! And thank you for the hoses. I have all new OE PCV hoses on the current motor. Roughly 18k miles on them. We'll see how they are doing given how much oil I consume with the current motor (I am assuming its oil circulating through the PCV system from worn rings

So, I am planning on getting a new SB and refresh the heads as a 20th birthday for my car. That is the high level thought process. I would like to get input from others on the details. I will list wants / needs and update as the peanut gallery chimes in.

Expectations: Stay relatively stock and happy. 250-300 crank HP. Nothing crazy that is beyond the stock numbers these motors see from factory. I wish to have a fun more reliable (I know wrong platform for reliable) daily driver. I am not looking to break the bank (again I know, wrong platform for this thought). $3-4k all said and done. Its a 3 season princess. The moment there is potential for road salt, she gets put in the garage.

 

Shopping list

- Type RA or normal EJ257 short block

- Refreshed heads (send off existing ones to machine shop)

           to what extent, idk. I am all ears for what to do to heads that have 265k on them.

- new head bolts or studs.

          I wouldn't go oversized if I went studs. I am leaning towards head bolts as it doesn't mess with the expected stress/strain of the motor requiring a new hone

- upgraded oil pan and pick up (killer B, IAG, moroso)

- Jmp refreshed VF40 turbo

      let him do his magic to refresh a tired turbo. Not sure how crazy to go given my goals

- stock side feed injectors (send old ones out for clean and checking)

       doesn't require a whole conversion process to top feed with no real benefit given my power level goals

- upgrade fuel pump

         maybe AVO unit or  AEM-50-1215

- Solid turbo inlet pipe

        I like the solid ones over other types but not needed. Just any new inlet pipe even OE is good

- cylinder 4 heating mod

        for reliability. I know it doesn't cool anything down, but just makes the temps more consistent for better tuning

- stock headers

- intercooler

         Likely go some used AVO style. I have had the thought of doing an air-to-water intercooler that still goes in the stock location. Could be a project down the line. I like the idea of consistent intake temps no matter what

- new AVCS gears and oil control valves

        again I want it to be reliable and not worry

- new coil packs

             for reliability sake

- maybe new throttle body

          again reliable and not worry about worn out potentiometer of an old throttle body

- AOS maybe

           this is more for peace of mind but with a pretty stock set up it might be overkill

- fluid damper crank pully

- new coolant/oil heat exchanger

           maybe delete and go just oil cooler. This is a 3 season car

- refresh all fuel lines and evap around the gas tank (it needs to be done regardless)

- maybe the fuel pump wiring upgrade though that can be done at anytime

- STI fuel pressure regulator upgrade

- all rubber hoses new

            already done to the original motor, and will carry over to the new motor

- AFR and Boost Gauge

        I plant to fit them in the cubby of the dash so I don't have to stare at them all the time. Maybe a multi display type gauge so I can add on other parameters down the line and keep it a simple form factor

 

 

 

@JmP6889928 @boxkita @m sprank@tysparks81@Max Capacity@Enlight@Infosecdad@KZJonny@Scottydunno@Code@seanyb505@BoozeRS05@Febreze Mee@Gex@utc_pyro@Underdog@SubOperator@DoctorDaveLGT@solidxsnake

*if I am missing any good possible contributors please tag them so that I can include them in the fun. I was quick to set up this thread so I stop procrastinating and can get to actually planning instead of being all talk with no walk. I would like as much input from you all as possible!*

Thank you ahead of time for any input!

All this talk of the kit. My only suggestion to do the job totally right, would be to re-pin both connectors so that there is not any soldering nor bottle neck of remaining smaller gauge wire. True pin to pin larger gauge wire upgrade

2 hours ago, ScottFW said:

sawzall

lol I did the same. Except i had the whole subframe out so I wasn't on my back doing it. Like you said, anti- seize goes along way in addition to new bolts. There is always a next time!  Rest assured, you're not alone

If @KZJonny backs out of the injectors, I could be interested, but first come first serve, they currently have his name on em.

Otherwise, if anyone has the new WRX 6 speed for a reasonable price, I would be interested

19 hours ago, boxkita said:

3500. shipping/pp extra

ill keep that in mind. the shipping and hassle to get it out here might be the killer but who knows as I tally up my engine build

 

On 12/3/2023 at 10:33 AM, Enlight said:

A BP/BL meet in Japan

All the wagons!!!!! New favorite video

1 minute ago, KZJonny said:

This needs it’s own thread Jay… let all of us armchair engineers tell you how to spend your money. 

I'll get that started and tag those who will be helpful...leave out those who just want to see my wallet burn haha

13 hours ago, boxkita said:

for sale: running engine 

so I have a 180k mile engine sitting in my shop. it was running when it was pulled. then valve gaskets done, new hg, new timing belt kit, killerb pan/baffle/pickup added. still has turbo on it.

just sitting there. i should put it in a car but I just don't want to mess with another lgt.

I know I said I would go new SB...but this is tempting. What would the damage be for that? I still need to figure out how much I'd add on to my build in addition to the new SB to know what my running cost might be (i.e. do i keep stock oil pan, stock head bolts, replace the 265k oil pump, etc)

mmmm @m sprank  that is a steep number of SB's haha. I just see the price is generally $2100. I plan to keep a stock set up in the end so tuning will be simple(ish)

@KZJonny 15% is decent (if the starting price is similar to what I see). I'll have to call local dealerships as well to see if they are willing to help keep an old LGT wagon on the road haha

1 hour ago, KZJonny said:

At what point do you start using a blend of 2-stroke and Supertech oils?

it does the mixing for me haha! I have been buying supertech because at the rate i burn, only the cheapest oil will satisfy. Some oil is better than no oil.

 

As for @Flaris ...sorry to hear about your oil consumption but I have been driving with my car's level of consumption in the <1k miles to the quart for 60k miles. Totally doable, kind of a pain, but here i am

Just passed 265k. I was cutting it close in crossing that with salt season imminent. I hope to treat the car to a 20 year birthday present next year of a new SB. 

And just to make everyone cringe, the past 25k has technically been on the same oil change (new filter at least every 10k)....I burn oil at about 1qt/300 miles so I figured it was getting an oil change every 1500 miles at that rate.