Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

jaylew

I Donated Too
  • Posts

    561
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Posts posted by jaylew

  1. 2 hours ago, KZJonny said:

    Finally another human who uses the right term. Not a hill I was ever going to choose to die defending, but I swear, my skin crawls every time I read, or have to type "intercooler" because the masses don't understand what that really means. Lol!

    🤪

    lol, sorry to bust your bubble...i tend to jump between the terms. It is hypocritical me, because I can be a stickler for proper technical terms being used to avoid confusion.

     

    And @BoozeRS05 No real write up that I am aware of. Fairly straight forward. If you brought your car I'd say we could do it at the ECM hahaha. But really, its just reusing one of the hoses already in that line, and looping it from the coolant crossover pipe on top of the short block, with a barb that pokes out of the top of the block. not the worst thing to get at while engine is in car

    • Like 1
  2. the only difficult part is removing the TB if you want to loop off that but honestly not needed.  Just remove the charge air cooler and you should have all the access needed

     

    Yeah it helps drive-ability in the winter. I have it bypassed for 3 years now and no issue, even in the random couple days of 30-40 degree (freedom units) weather in the spring or fall

  3. Honestly that looks like it is the connection from the heater core pipe (near fig.720) that sends hot coolant to the throttle body. I could be wrong but that is the only small coolant pipe I am aware of. I removed it and looped the coolant that is meant for the throttle body so that no coolant goes to it anymore. Makes for easy intake removal too. The coolant is only needed if you drive in the winter

    block .png

    TB.png

    • Like 2
  4. Well likely the rotors are warped. Other possibility is the mounting surface(s) between rotor/hub or wheel bearing/knuckle are not machine flat.

    I made the mistake of painting the mating surface between the wheel bearing and knuckle and i get shaking in the steering wheel upon braking and the rears like to catch/let go kinda feeling. The fix for me is to clean the machined mating surfaces.

    Could be similar or not. But I guess start with the rotors

  5. 6 hours ago, SubOperator said:

    This steering wheel shake only happens when braking at speed above 50-60 mph. And even then it is not always there.

    Head scratcher for sure but I guess I will go ahead and see about some new LCA bushings.

    If it is only under braking, that makes me believe its rotor related. Maybe wheel bearing

     

    Just got new windshield installed by safelite...anddddd i need to call them to warranty it. Right in the line of sight of driver there is a deformation in the glass. Everywhere else is crystal clear. The tech though was laughing when he showed up since i had the a-pillers removed, heating element unplugged, wipers+trim removed and removed the rear view mirror

    • Like 2
    • Haha 3
    • Sad 1
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use