Scooby2.5

The controller I was looking at on NASIOC is an older one that fit pretty much all the imprezas and STIs. I saw that difference in 08 as well as the wagon sedan difference. I figured the older 05-07 one would work fine if it plugs in. We shall see....

I think 08 is a good choice as it does not have the speedo gear stuff. It is the year they did away with that. Your speedo on the legacy works from the wheel speed sensor and that is the way the 08+ impreza is.

Lachute performance might be able to help you they are in Canada

Ill keep everyone posted on what happens with this. It is an interesting one. There is a 08 WRX with my exact same setup that was tuned by Tim Bailey at Cobb surgeline that put 380/440 to the wheels and did not have this problem with DW 850's. He may be able to check his pump voltage for me this week.

Hey unclemat thats what we did see post 42:

When you start your car for the first 4-7 seconds the pump goes to 100% duty cycle. You can monitor this with your AP by selecting fuel pump duty cycle. We monitored ours with the AP and then stuck a volt meter at the pump. The connector on the pump has a flip top on it so you can leave it plugged in and still get a meter on it but you need some sharp thin lead wires. Its a green/yellow and green/red wires. I have a BS degree in electronics so this has been a bit fun messing with. Although I want my car back We measured the voltage first across the fuel pump relay and no drop at all. Then measured the difference at the exit of the relay and then at the input of the fuel pump module. It was about 12.7v at the relay but closer to 11 at the fuel pump module. Somewhere there is an almost 2V drop across the wiring between the relay and the fuel pump module. Lastly I may be purchasing a fuel pump control module from an impreza and seeing if we can hook it up to see if it works. My goal is to have a control module that allows for more voltage to the pump. I do NOT want to bypass it on a daily driver Here is a link to one I am trying to purchase: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2085811 Here is a link to the 08 up STI http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g12/type_19/engine_electronic/relay_and_sensor_engine/ Here is a couple links to the older ones: http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g11/type_5/engine_electronic/relay_and_sensor_engine/illustration_1/ http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g11/type_5/engine_electronic/relay_and_sensor_engine/illustration_2/

We checked another 2005 legacy GT wagon tonight and it too would only go to 11.75 volts to the pump out of the fuel pump module/unit at 100% pump duty cycle.

Older thread but have an interesting one related to this..... Went to Cobb tuning back in 2009 and my car at 350whp 373wtq with an AVO380 AVO fuel pump and DW 850 injectors was at 100% duty cycle for some reason. Just went to Cobb this week, I had changed regulator and orings in the tank but still had my 2-3 year old AVO pump in but now have Id1000's. While at the beginning of tuning right when we got to 360whp 415wtq, still in the rich stages of the tune I was at 97% duty cycle on the ID1000's. AFR's were in the 12.7 range when they should have been in the 10.5 range at the beginning of the tune. I changed my pump to the Aeromotive Stealth in the parking lot and the AFR's dropped by a point immediately but I was still at 97% duty cycle on the injectors. Through some trouble shooting and tearing of my interior apart to get to the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump control module/unit we found part of the problem. My stock wiring harness was dropping almost 2 volts from the fuel pump relay to the fuel pump module at the back left of the car. It was causing the fuel pump to never get above about 11.7 volts coming out of the fuel pump module/unit. We bypassed the wiring from the relay to the module and then were able to get 12.7 volts out of the module to the pump and the duty cycle of the injectors dropped to 80-85 % when the pump was at 100% If we bypassed the fuel pump control module/unit altogether and had 14v battery/alt voltage it would drop the duty cycle of the injectors even more. We are doing some more testing to find if the fuel pump module/unit is defective or not but it was interesting to see how the pump changed the AFR's as well as how I had a 2 volt drop in my wiring harness. In my case the fuel pump control module/unit never allowed the pump to go above 11.75 volts on stock wiring and with external wiring it went to 12.7. Stay tuned......

I didn't find anything incorrect NSFW. Mostly used your thread and I installed it myself with a friend and had no problems and was not missing a single thing. Anthony I used the spec B STI STS shifter with my 08 and posted all the details and pics of what was different between that and the STI shifter that came with my swap

I used the slave cylinder that was attached to the STI transmission I purchased. KCWagon used the slave cylinder that was attached to the spec b transmission he used. If you want to find out if the part numbers are the same..... http://opposedforces.com/parts/ Thats what I did when I wanted to see if they were the same Also NSFW listed the part numbers on his list with links to opposed forces http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/nsfws-6mt-swap-thread-143520.html?t=143520&highlight=nsfw+speed click on the link in his thread under small parts, slave cylinder and it will take you right to the website. When there you can click on usage and it will tell you what car it was used on

Anthony, this is what I am talking about, (in another thread) all of these questions have been answered. Read through the threads, take some notes and then post up any more questions you have, and we will be glad to answer them. I read through all of them and it ended up the only real question I had was the driveshaft issue. My car is an outback XT, and the length of the shaft I got out of a 2006 4EAT 2.5i sedan didn't seem correct in comparison with hammer downs custom shaft. The threads clearly state you can use a 4EAT shaft in place of the spec b or the custom shaft. Thats why I purchased the 4EAT shaft. I was only unclear on the lengths and whether it would work in an Outback XT. It did in fact bolt right up with no issues even on my outback XT.

I purchased mine off ebay. 2006 2.5i 4EAT shaft from a Legacy Sedan. Worked perfect in my Outback XT 6 speed swap. Check Ebay, there were a lot on there from 75-150 bucks when I did mine

Yes it does. The orange LED that lights up when you go to manual or are in auto and its working is the same as the orange light that lights up on the rear defroster button, defrost button for windshield and heated mirrors, and windshield wiper heater button. Also on the STI the same kind of thing. Any of the buttons you toggle on or off for certain features has a little round LED window on them that glows orange when on.

It just has one orange LED on the auto/maual switch that is rarely on. It matches way better as a stock switch than the aftermarket ones that you get with the DCCDpro. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/dccd-control-install-location-156507.html

^Yep and they are actually prewired so they are a bit more from him but his wiring job is bar none!

DCCDpro sells the stock switches or the standard ones. If you get the stock switches from him like I did, they are pre-wired up VERY NICELY. Id just get the whole thing from him. Go to the website and you will see them listed: http://www.dccdpro.com/zcart/ https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=1339 If you are talking about the 5 speed momo shift knob, I do know a way you can do it thanks to hammer. You would almost have to see the 6 speed shift knob to fully understand maybe but Ill try to explain. The 5 speed mono knob has a nub on it that the boot slips over to hold it up. You would have to cut that nub off flush. The nub you cut off is the exact size of the hole that needs to be drilled in the bottom of the shift knob after cutting the nub off. Use some sort of drill press or something like hammer did in his thread and drill out the center of the shift knob where you cut the nub off. This new drilled out part needs to be a certain depth which could be measured off a stock 6 speed knob. Once that hole is drilled larger you can now screw it onto the 6 speed shifter and the new hole/hollowed out part allows the reverse lockout to go up into the knob like on a stock 6 speed knob. I have been planning to do this with my 5 speed momo knob if it doesn't sell in the forums. Im not sure it will work the way you are thinking where it is hidden under the leather boot but you could sure give it a try. I personally think it would be better to "convert" it like I described. Do a look around in hammers thread and you will see how he did it to a similar knob. First step is to cut off the nub that holds the boot though. Hope that helps

I think its funny how the STI is catching up to the 05 legacy platform over the years. We have stuff on our cars that didn't show up on the STI until 2008. Like for example the speed is derived off wheel speed sensors, not gears in the transmission.

Interesting, I didn't know that or missed it if you told me. So the 2011 STI must be pretty much the same part number as the Spec b mine looked just like that and I ordered it for a 08 spec b.

You can't use a specific year of DCCD controller. The reason is (that I know of) you can't use the STI DCCD computer because it ties into the STI ECU which we do not have. So you have to go aftermarket. I purchased from DCCDpro at DCCDPRO.com I purchased mine with the Factory Auto/manual switch, and the factory scroll switch as I wanted a factory look. I then cut holes in my console after some VERY SERIOUS MEASURING. I then just snapped them in the holes I created. You know what setting you are in (sort of) by the LED on the Auto/Manual switch. It glows brighter and dimmer depending on the amount the DCCD is working in Auto mode, and does the same with the scroll wheel in manual mode. Its a bit different than the stock one but not much. You can read through the installation documents and the test documents on his website and get a feel for it. Lots of good information there and the guy is SHARP! Read through all the threads on the 6 speed swap and you will have the answers to pretty much ALL your questions you will have as you look into doing this. I really only had a few after I started this project because between NSFW, Groff, Hammer down and the sticky, pretty much every question you can come up with is mostly answered. These guys covered it all, and THANKS AGAIN for making it easy for the rest of us guys!

Here is a picture, not of mine but of a friend that found one on ebay. **Edit His was from a 2011 STI** Mine looked just exactly like this and it was a new one for a spec B. Spec B rear diff mount part number is 41310ag040 http://gallery.me.com/gregnauman/100050/Spec%20B%20R180%20Mount/web.jpg?

You don't HAVE to change the mount but after looking at it real close it does match the R180 a little better. A friend of mine found the one in the below picture on Ebay for 35 bucks. I paid 95 from dealer. Spec B rear diff mount part number is 41310ag040 http://gallery.me.com/gregnauman/100050/Spec%20B%20R180%20Mount/web.jpg?

SBT is correct since yours is a five speed its like anyone else. You will need your 08 STI tranny, STI mount, spec b driveshaft or the 2.5i shaft SBT mentioned, 07+ spec B axels and either a Spec B R180 or a 06+ STI R180 to get the 3.54 gear ratio. You could find a 3.54 R160 and then just change the driveshaft. You will also want to change the R180 cradle/mount. Most have not done this but it does fit the R180 better. This part is also for a 07+ spec b You will also need a spec b shifter either stock or the STI spec B STS.

Nope you can run it with either one as long as its the correct ratio. Many on NASIOC do tranny swaps in the WRX and keep the R160 because some of them are the same gear ratio

^What???? DCCD has nothing to do with the R180. DCCD controller wires to the DCCD coil in the transmission only.

Compression test will check the cylinder on compression stroke to see if it holds around 150lbs (normal). Leakdown would be pumping air into cylinder and see how quick it leaks out to check valves. Just doing compression test would probably be fine. If you are getting quit a bit of misfires and you have swapped to new injectors or coil packs then i would say its probably valves depending on mileage. My motor and a friend of mine locally both had pistons fine, it was the exhaust valves getting out of spec around 100k or so. Local shop is fine but use someone you trust. As far as pulling and installing injectors you did it correct. Make sure you use vasoline or something similar as the lube, and make sure you start the car and pull fuel pump fuse and let the car die to relieve fuel pressure.