Scooby2.5

I reset the calibration data and made sure everything was configured properly and then recalibrated to air and it is still reading 13.7. So not sure what to think.....

Update on Mine. I got the bung out of my Cobb downpipe finally. Had to use a IR Titanium impact to zip it out. I couldnt get it out with a ratchet and cheater pipe to save my life. So I Calibrated and programmed the LC1 according to the intstructions. Calibrated it to air and installed in the bung. My first test today shows the VBG1 reading 1 point lower than my Cobb AP. If I am driving steady down the highway or warm at an idle the Cobb AP reads 14.7 and the VBG1 reads 13.7 Any ideas on my they are reading different? Thanks Greg

Super 6 speed decoder ring: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1225160

All you need to do is drill out the hole in the bottom of the knob far enough for the reverse lockout to fit up inside. Measure the diameter of the reverse lockout and then how deep it is to the flare and then drill out the MOMO to that diameter and that depth. The threads go really far up inside so this should work. I was planning on doing this but just never did so I purchased a Cobb Knob instead. I wrote up someplace on the forum exactly what to do, so if you look at that and look at the pictures of Hammers drill job on his knob you will see just exactly how to do it. I would take it to a machine shop and have them do it or use a drill press of some sort. Hope that helps

Part numbers are different but like hammer said, I think they are pretty much the same

I just searched and see quite a few. Search: subaru legacy 4eat drive shaft

I dont believe the 5 speed one will work as I remember. If it would have I would have kept my 5 speed ACT clutch and used it in the 6 speed. As it would not I sold the WRX flywheel and ACT clutch that was in my 5 speed with only 30k on it. also a previous post in another thread on the driveshaft.... Originally Posted by Scooby2.5 I purchased mine off ebay. 2006 2.5i 4EAT shaft from a Legacy Sedan. Worked perfect in my Outback XT 6 speed swap. Check Ebay, there were a lot on there from 75-150 bucks when I did mine

I used a 2006 4EAT driveshaft, Clutch Masters fX300 clutch and pressure plate with stock STI flywheel and spec b STI Short Throw shifter

Im not really sure why the discussion on the pump...... Im sure everyones aftermarket pump, whether it be, Aeromotive, Walbro, AVO etc all are tested at battery + alt voltage which is generally 13.5 volts and above. The problem with the legacy, near as we can tell, is you never get above 11.7 volts out of the fuel pump control module, even if a wire is direct to the module from the battery. Not sure if you have read the whole thread or not but really the pump is not the issue its the voltage getting to the pump. I replaced my AVO pump with an Aeromotive pump and it did not fix the problems discussed in this thread. It wasn't until we discovered the voltage drop going to the module from the FPR and the low voltage out of the module to the pump. Only After swapping in an STI module and running a wire from the battery to the module were we able to fix the issue. See post 52

No problem ask me how I know I know have a tie wrap permanently around the cylinder 3 connector.

Ditto that statement and by the way there is another thread for Auto to Manual swap I believe.

As SBT said but I will add be very careful unplugging the wiring harness from the coil pack. The plastic becomes brittle from the heat and its easy to break off the tab. You need to slightly lift the tab and then pull it off. Shine a flashlight down and look at it first before beginning and you will see what I am talking about.

Only fuel lines used were the ones coming from the tank to under the hood. Everything under the hood was changed, ID1000 kit and custom fuel lines.

You can run the wiring direct to the pump and it will run 100% DC all the time. You can run the kit direct to the FPM and the increase in wire size will allow more voltage to the FPM and cause the stock FPM to output higher voltage to the pump when the PW hits 100% DC. You essentially bypass the factory wiring harness which is dropping the voltage as you go to the back of the car. I thought I explained all this pretty well in previous posts?

The hardwire kit will allow battery voltage to the FPM but even then it will not allow full voltage to the pump. In our testing the FPM on the LGT/OBXT was limiting the output even if you bypassed the wiring harness and applied battery voltage direct. The duty cycle did go down but not by enough, hence the reason for changing the module. You could run battery voltage direct to the pump with the DW kit itsme posted but then you would have the pump running 100% DC all the time. That kit is exactly what we did during the install. Inline fuse, relay etc. Great of DW to come out with it. By the way the STI module I purchased bolted right into the stock location on my wagon in the left rear of the cargo area. I also want to mention that I believe that unless you are approaching 380-400 WHP on E85 this will not be a factor to need this conversion. E85 takes 30% more fuel and when you are pushing close to 400 with E85 the amount of needed fuel is greater hence the need for the pump to run at a higher voltage. If my car were 385whp on pump gas I don't think you would see this issue as it would need less fuel. I could be wrong but thats what I think at this point. I was trying to find other vehicles (LGT/OBXT) that were hitting close to this HP, with any turbo on E85, and seeing what the IDC was but haven't had much luck.

http://gallery.me.com/gregnauman/100034/IMG_0202/web.jpg?

OUTBACK STI

I got mine installed yesterday. Ill take some good pictures soon. I found some pretty decent ways to get into the cabin. I was installing an LC1 AFR sensor with the VBG1 and of course running the tubing into the cabin. I placed the LC1 brick to the firewall on the drivers side with the plug for the O2 sensor facing the passenger side. I then ran the wires that needed to go into the cabin through the blank portion of the fuel line rubber plug on the drivers side just below and to the right of the power brake booster. This position dropped them through the firewall right near the interior fuse bank area. I forgot to run the vacuum line at the same time so I ran it into the driver fender following the wires below the Fuse box and into the door jam area. I then routed it through the driver door where the wires go through and up to the fuse area in the cabin. I placed the sending unit on that little "shelf" just inside the fuse access door in the cabin. The instructions were PERFECT Lossol (Andy), great job. Programming the LC1 was a breeze as well. I didn't have a serial port on my laptop. Its a Macbook pro that is dual booted with windows 7 so I purchased a USB to serial adapter and it worked perfect. [ame=http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Serial-Converter-TU-S9-Blue/dp/B0007T27H8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1326035063&sr=8-1]Amazon.com: TRENDnet USB to Serial Converter TU-S9 (Blue): Electronics[/ame] On the way home from a friends (kcwagon) that helped me out I was at least able to use it for boost and voltage. Voltage readings were within .1 of my Escort radar detector. I have the factory STI Subaru Defi gauges in the cubby and the boost seemed to match almost perfect. I placed a T in the line that goes to the Defi sending unit. I would hold the needle on the mechanical gauge to 0 psi and the VBG1 would also be zero. On the upper end at about 1 bar on the mechanical it was real close to 14.5 PSI on the VBG1 as near as I could tell. Its much easier to hold it at zero than it is at 1-1.5 bar. It was awesome having the PEAK boost to show for a few seconds after getting into boost. I wanted this for AFR but the peak boost feature is nice to go along with my factory boost gauge. I haven't changed any setting on the VBG1 yet so its still at Andy's default state. I mounted the push button and the LED for the LC1 calibration and monitoring in the lid of the Fuse box under the hood. This worked perfect. Now all I have to do is pop the O2 sensor out when it needs calibrated, turn the key on and push the button I mounted in the lid. The only thing I have left to do is get the bung plug out of my Cobb downpipe. It has been in the downpipe so long I can't get it out. One of my subaru mechanic buddies has an impact that can take almost anything out so Ill see if that can hammer and twist it out. Ill place my pictures in this post after I take them later today. I must say this thing is a work of art when you get it in and powered up. The Led's match real well with the the red colors in the existing dash as well as the white colors of the text. Pictures do not do it justice as to how well this matches the existing interior lights. GREAT JOB ANDY and GREAT Product. I don't know if you have any vendors carrying this but I will be letting Cobb Plano know about this as an option for their customers.

Anybody else check this for us yet? Bueller Bueller?

Just an update on mine. I got it installed in the vent last night. In following the directions it says to fold the ribbon cable over after connectiong it but on the version 1.05 the newest version it looks as though the ribbon connector is flipped to where it comes straight out the top. With that said as it came out the top it would not line up with the opening on the left of the vent. So what I had to do was fold it down and then fold it up at a 45 degree angle to get it to exit the vent where the pictures showed. This worked pretty well. If the connector on the board could be moved to the left a bit it would exit the vent without doing anything to the ribbon cable. I'll be hooking up the power and the LC1 this week

Ill be installing a beta version 1.05 this week. I have had almost my whole car apart and anyone that has taken some of this plastic stuff apart, knows its easy to break things. With that said any pointers on getting the vent out of the dash and the vent ring off without breaking the tabs that hold it in? I checked the service manual and its pretty vague. Looks like some sort of tabs (2 of them) near the top of the vent.

I dont notice mine going to manual, but when I first start the car the LED on the manual auto switch is flashing and almost full on bright like its really thinking when you first start the car. Then when I back out of the garage and make a slight turn I get some binding but after that it is pretty much gone. That LED tells you how much the DCCD controller is working. It glows brighter when working more and less when not. So when you get into a turn etc you will see it changing states. I run mine about 1/2 way on the factory STI thumbwheel in Auto mode. Here is a quote from Jeffs website at DCCDpro. If your controller is fully automatic why does it have an adjustment knob? The adjustment knob is for manually setting the lock percentage when it is set to manual mode. When in auto mode it is used for setting the “aggressiveness” or magnitude of the internal calculations. The knob functionality in auto mode changes a set of variables that affect the output scaling to the different internal modes. It allows you to tune the controller bias towards a more open diff or a more locked diff while still calculating and adjusting automatically. Think of it as a volume control for a stereo, it doesn’t alter the music it just sets the volume level. You can turn the volume all the way down and the controller will be basically off, or all the way up and have it fighting for the most traction at all times.

Sounds to me you are talking about manual mode. In auto mode there is almost no biding as it still adjusts. it changes the agressiveness of the map changes depending on driving conditions. This is different from a stock STI where the the thumb wheel doesn't do anything in Auto mode. In manual mode it stays where you put it with the scroll wheel. I was looking for more of what people are doing with the wheel in Auto mode

For those that are running the DCCDpro controller. I am assuming most of you run it in auto mode. With that said do you have the knob all the way up, down or somewhere in the middle. I understand from Jeff Reid (DCCDPRO) that the knob in auto mode changes the aggressiveness of the traction control but is still "auto" adjusting. I have been running my scroll wheel in the middle but was wondering if anyone runs it auto/full agressive

You need anymore Beta testers for the 1.5 version on a 2005 vehicle?