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Shadow_419

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Posts posted by Shadow_419

  1. ^Oh ok! Yeah, I had Pioneers with that, past crop of head units from them lost that feature, totally forgot about it. I thought you were running a Mosconi or Audison :)

     

    Have not heard Daytons yet, how are they compared to, say, entry level Morels?

    I haven't heard Morels in a very long time (00-01) so tough for me to compare. These woofers have very nice build quality and can play easily to 2khz. The tweeters are from a company that was founded by former scanspeak engineers. It can be crossed over as low as 1.8khz with a 24db slope.

    Daytons like lots of speakers are made in Asia (Taiwan iirc) but the build quality is excellent and they carry a longer warranty than most.

     

    I'd say suspension is pretty much done and brakes are good. Breaking in the Koni's as we speak. Just time to add some power and finish up the appearance stuff. I need to upgrade the HU here next year I think. I'm looking to do some dynomat in the doors too.

     

    Shadow, do these HU work well with the steering wheel controls? That's what I'd like to have finally with bluetooth. Been using a cheap dongle that plugs into the aux in the center console for the last 3 years. I'd also like to find a quality sub that'll fit in the rear window so I can keep my trunk space. I'm not very good when it comes to audio tech. Haven't looked much into it.

     

    I haven't added a steering wheel control adapter yet, but from what I've read the metra axcess controller works well to retain the steering wheel controls.

    I'm also looking to avoid using any type of subwoofer box if I can get away with it. I don't need to shake the car apart, just enough to fill in the low end correctly with decent output.

    Konis are the next mechanical upgrade. My stock struts are finally ready to retire lol

  2. Nice!

     

    You mentioned time alignment, what are you using for that?

     

    What amp did you use and what component set/sub do you plan to upgrade to?

     

    The head unit handles time alignment and crossover duties for the mid, tweeter, and sub. In one of the available modes you give up front/rear/sub for high/mid/sub. The mid has an actual bandpass crossover. The crossover section has selectable crossover points and slope. Not as advance as a dedicated dsp but enough control that its actually functional

     

    Not going component set but raw drivers active.

    SB acoustics SB26STCN tweeters

    Dayton Rs180 7in woofer mids

     

    Haven't decided on a sub yet but I'm leaning towards the Dayton Ultimax 8"

     

    Picked up a used Arc Audio 5 channel amp on eBay 80Wx4 and 240W on the sub channel rms @4ohms

    Xdi 805

  3. I've been slowly upgrading the sound system in my car. While the factory speakers in the Harman/Kardon system aren't great, they're better than they appear. The head unit and amp are the weaker links in the chain. I upgraded just the head unit a few months back to a nice improvement in sound and call quality. Just upgraded the amplifier and even without running the rear door speakers, the sound is overall much better. Having crossover and time alignment controls for the mids and dash tweeter/cones plus extra power for all the speakers have it sounding like a new system. The door + dash speakers are next. With a new sub round out the upgrade in the near future
  4. Thought I'd make it to the spring to replace the bushings.. but I think the stiffer suspension did 'em in. Hearing a little bit of clunking in the front-right. Here are the bushings from when I did the struts/springs:

     

    Those look almost identical to mine. Planning on replacing them over the next year.

     

    Don't be a dummy like I was replacing the arms recently. I replaced the entire arm with new ball joint from Subaru. If going that route, pop the axles out heat the knuckle and the ball joint comes out easy enough. Don't bang on the arm like I was trying to get it out. If you have no rust in your area maybe, otherwise go with a map torch and heat it up. Breaker bar / impact + penetrant for the bushing bolts.

  5. After almost 5yrs of ownership, I've just popped my 1st code. P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold. Reset the code and will see if it pops up again on my drive home this afternoon, but from light reading it doesn't seem like a huge issue.

    You may not get enough drive cycles in to throw the code again right away. Should come back with a few days though. You can replace the sensor or tune out the code. It's just a check to ensure the catalytic converter is operating at the factory determined efficiency for the stock tune.

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