RustyRuu

the wagon is just to darn limited on space. its sorta a ragtop...

this may help. its where his remote start was just send me some tickets if ratdog goes back on tour.

don't ever assume someones genner:rolleyes:

hillary duff?

I would be less concerned about the diff. and more concerned about the fuel lines above the passenger side nut. the nut is on the other side of the sub-frame towards the front of the car away from the diff. just use common sense, heat rises, don't torch up towards the fuel lines. I'm also refering to a 3rd gen, so they could be in a different location for 05+. got one side off with heat and stripped the other side out and finished rounding it off with bolt extracters from erwin. gonna try some more heat and vice grips, then move on to nut spliters, and will then try and grind the nut off as a last resort.

removing would be easier or you could just undo the bolts from the unibody and and let it hang off the tranny. it never hurt anything for me with stock oem mounts it only took a bit of finger strength to move it over maybe a bit more, look into group n motor and tranny mounts if you have those i wouldn't consider this technique since they are too stiff

its in steps 18-22 or so in this link http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t128163-diy-clutch-replacement-pictorial.html

there is another way to get the axles out actually i did it a couple times with my old mounts and never had an issue, i probably wouldn't try it with group n's though. use your scissor jack for changing a tire, sandwich it in your tranny tunnel between the tranny. and it usually just takes your finger strength or maybe a small screw driver and push the tranny over to get the inside off first.

Weld the diff you have a drift car now...

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/transmission-gear-ratios-and-final-drives-229267.html yeah charts!!! the bottom link on that page to Rallyspec or whatever will give you MOAR!!! I'm on the same page too JDM tranny's are looking pretty good right now.

lol just park the 05+ lgt in the yard, the driveway is for the second gen. what a pavement princess :rolleyes:

my problem exactly. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_1/suspension_and_axle/rear_suspension/illustration_2/ number 9 is that bushing does whiteline make one as well?

thanks regardie, nice little fun fact there... i was more asking if he bought new sensors or cats or just put a spacer in... I am now in the P0420 club, as well as new to the 200k miles club (for subaru's at least) I Had this code some 8k to 9k miles ago. tore my motor apart rebuilt it and it just now came back noticed it after getting into the 4k rpm range which i dont do a lot... my idea was to get a anti fowler/spacer to figure out if its the cats or the sensor. if its the sensor, as in i'm still getting the code, it will be replaced. if its the cats, the code goes away, i will spend my time instead of money and they will be hallowed out. Good idea so far? anyone else have other ideas?

bump- did you ever figure this out matty?

4th gen front top hats, 3rd gen struts. rears bolt right up

Easy off is great,used that on my pistons too, the non bake stuff works great. Where are the heads coming from a 25d? Wouldn't that be lower compression than a 22 and 25? What do you do about that?

what is that digital gauge mounted on your driverside strut tower washer tank? what does it measure?

I've got one an older on but still a 5mt. 96 obw ej22e 165k. Bought her with 4th gear almost gone then I finished the job. Would pop out if you let off the gas then just would not ever stay in 4th for a while. Then the clutch started to not release but you can adjust the cable. It didn't work for long pretty sure I broke/bent another clutch fork. I am sure it was from just lack of matainace. The oil literally came out in chunks and was just gross. 800 car, I can source a tranny for 600 supposedly rebuilt and sealed. Or I can just pull and save the motor for future projects I have in mind. Either for a westy swap or to drop into a baja.

thanks for the low down... i used this method and then cranked the motor without the fuel pump fuse or plug wires till the oil light went out then hooked every thing up and she is doing just fine (still in break in).

my original question still stands but this thing works great. It gives you less of a heart ache than just cranking it over to prime. this was my first rebuild ever and i'm back on the road again and this site is the best. thanks Sgt. Gator that fitting was perfect, this idea is a must, and i'll defiantly spread the knowlege Underdog.

so this method only works for what ever year this is. i saw the solid tri bearing surface and thought it would be ok to soak mine in mineral spirits to get them clean. not a good idea i took the rings off the tri piece and soaked them then discovered there was another bearing underneath.that is nearly impossible to see if you follow this and you will end up with something that breaks down grease in those bearings stuck there and unable to clean that will probably just kill them and need replacing soon

I'm just trying to think this through. how would you be able to get to any of the rod bearings or would you only be priming the journals to the main bearings? would you then want to crank it over by hand 20 times, then use the starter to prime more, then throw the fuel pump fuse in and let it rip. i'm just worried since the engine has been sitting for a while. and i'm affraid what i used for assembly oil has probably all oozed away (lucus oil stabilizer). not sure if there is really a question being asked here but if someone notices a really stupid thing was just said by me please let me know.

i thought they used the hole for cars with reverse lockouts like the 6mt or some sti's have.

Maybe you can start a poll for the color choices just for fun and your kid never has to know even if he wins. What are the colors being disputed at this moment?

could possibly be your rotors. I had a similar problem and you wouldn't feel it (the shaky wheel would stop) when you would brake to stop, but it could when you brake checked or tapped them. thought it was something with the power steering, but time came to replace rotors and i replaced the fronts first. I started to late and had to work that night so i just went with the fronts for then. the problem was still present. so i really thought it was the power steering. the next day i replaced the rears and it was back to driving normal, somehow a rear warped rotor caused the steering to shake at highway speeds.