Sarang

I'm looking at the new BRZ too, but now it looks like I might get a company vehicle so I'm tempted to save the money instead... Being an adult is weird.

I bought the springs from a dealership. Go to parts.subaru.com and look up the part numbers, then you can see if a dealer near you had then for cheap. I think it was around $36 per spring for me.

Check out subtle-solutions for a lift kit and replace your struts with OEM. If you want stiffer springs, get the 2013 springs. They're a bit stiffer, which is nice.

There is a thread in here if a guy who put outback suspension on his legacy and he got it to work fine.

I would take a good look at your suspension bushings while you're under there. Worn/torn bushings can result in increased NVH.

You are correct. I put 2013 oem springs with KTB struts on my 2010. It made it WAY better, like the car should have come from the factory.

I had the same struggle. I failed the first time, then went and bought some punches and tried it again, and ended up getting it with a nail that was the right size.

Worst fing mod install of my life.

I do everything on my cars, but if I was going to do it over again, I'd have a shop do the pin.

It's also worth noting that the 2015+ WRX turbocharger is different from ours, so a charge pipe from the WRX will not bolt on the same. I have wondered if you could make one of them work, but it's not guaranteed.

Agree with Stewdogg: It's pretty simple, just kind of tricky. I have big hands, so I had to ask my girlfriend to undo one of the clips that are hard to get to with my meaty digits. It's all very intuitive and it's pretty easy to wing it. You are dealing with gasoline tho, so try not to die in a fire.

 

It absolutely can be changed out, what a stupid thing for the dealer to say. If you're not the type to do it yourself, any shop should be qualified.

Why are you buying from a dealer? There's really no reason to, unless you're in one of those states that requires it, and you just have to pay for a salesman when they're not adding any value for you.

 

I bought my 2020 Crosstrek from CLS cars. They gave me an OTD price for exactly what I asked for, lead time to expect, and when it came time to pick it up, the guy handed me the keys and printed out the paperwork. Picking up the car took 15 minutes, and ordering it took three emails. I would buy from someone like them. http://www.clscars.com/ They can order any car, except exotics.

 

The fact is I regularly buy chillers and other equipment for $100k or more from the likes of Carrier and Trane, and I can do that via email and by signing a paper. There's no reason why you should have to physically go to a place and haggle over a piddly $50k car, especially if you know exactly what you want. Salesman make sense if you need them to help you figure out what to buy, but if you know exactly what you want, what is the salesman for? Just order it.

Welcome. That's a great color.

 

One of the upsides of the '10-12 LGT is that it's a bit of a unicorn. Not that many aftermarket parts fit it. That said, a Cobb accessport and turbo back exhaust really opens it up.

a well handling car with a bit of pep seems about right. I'm over traffic tickets and maintenance issues.

 

This is exactly my feeling lately. I like the new BRZ because it seems like it will be a good fit of handling, decent power, fun and reliability for a DD. It will also come out about the time I should be in the right financial place to think about another new car.

I replaced my '10 suspension for new struts and stock '13+ springs with Whiteline sway bars front and rear. That was about perfect for me. It went from bottoming out turning into the grocery store to feeling like a slightly sporty sedan.

I would highly recommend a stiffer rear sway bar at a minimum. It kills that stupid floaty feeling that the car has stock.

How strong is the magnet? I tried something similar years ago, but found that the phone would fall off on any bump or turn.

That's a good point too - my dyno numbers were 297hp/380tq

My torque peak was at ~3300 RPMs

It's pretty impossible to compare actual hp numbers from one dyno to another, but my torque was like 26% higher than my hp, and yours are equal.

What RPM are you hitting 16psi boost?

 

Mine would hit ~17psi at 2700 RPM and it felt very torquey from then on. Below that, it was like a 2.5 with a restriction. On the top at about 5000 RPM the torque fell off a cliff, so I wouldn't really consider it a top end turbo. From looking at dynos of older LGTs, and driving my buddie's '09 WRX stage 2, I thought my '10 LGT had more low end torue.

You can turn off all the beeps. Honestly, it's mostly the adaptive cruise that I like. It really makes traffic less stressful. With the BRZ, I would think that I'd use that when commuting and turn it off when I get to the fun curvy road.

 

My Crosstrek certainly doesn't have the fun, fast, and driver engagement factor that my LGT had, but it excels in being the exact opposite. It's a boring appliance that gets me places with little fuss. It's also surprisingly capable off road. X-mode just chugs up hills and slowly crawls down the other side.

Understandable, but I want Eyesight. I'm also at least three years out, so who knows what I'll want by then.

The new BRZ is appealing to me. I'm sure I'd want to supercharge it. 0.4*228=319hp which is pretty decent on a car that light.

 

But I just bought the Crosstrek, so I'm thinking of getting a house next year, then maybe getting married, then maybe a fun car. Who knows.

Mine did that on both sides - one worse than the other. I ended up replacing the bumper skin because I tore it on some ice and I replaced the brackets at the same time. It still did it. It took so long to get all the little tabs lined up right, and I took my time and didn't break or bend any.

 

It was so frustrating.

FYI your ECU has gear dependent boost control from the factory. This means that they can lower the WGDC for 5th and 6th to reduce the likelihood of over boost and/or to increase mpgs on the freeway. It might even make sense to have them set 6th to 0% WGDC since you probably won't ever need that anyways. You should really downshift for any significant acceleration instead of boosting in high gears.

Got my car back after repair for this issue: https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5996710&postcount=2216

 

Shop replaced the missing bolt on the v-band with a stainless steel one, replaced the rusted coolant lines on the turbo (2nd time I've had to do this), and had to replace the oil pan on the turbo. Apparently the pan crumbled when they tried to disassemble things to reach the v-band. They inspected the turbo via inspection camera and saw no obvious damage.

 

Guess I'm good to go now... A little worried still that something else could go wrong. I'm debating removing the intercooler and looking inside for any sings of metal shavings and potentially cleaning it out.

 

Do it man, you'll regret it if you don't.

Any throttle body coupling for the 2015+ WRX will work, no need to spring for a name brand.

Yeah check the throttle body coupler

Yeah I would agree. The first time I overboosted (to 27.4 PSI!) I though my engine had blown.

 

Also, once you overboost, you can have resultant boost leaks if you crack the charge pipe or blow off a hose. If your idle, cruising, and low boost AFR is normal, than this is unlikely.

does the motor actually need to be removed in the GT? i've done clutches on older 2.5s and you can just drop the tranny. I ask this since i've started getting some nasty chatter out of my clutch and am planning on replacing eventually

 

The place that did my clutch fork (and new clutch) said that you can do it either way. However, keep in mind that the engine has no rear mounts, it's supported by the tranny, so you'd have to support the engine while you drop the tranny. For that reason, they just pulled the engine on mine.