MTBwrench

9500rpm in a LGT which has a JDM Version 10 EJ207 swap high enough for you? Does 55mph in 1st gear

Video or it didn't happen!!! (I would just love to see that, I'll bet it sounds amazing)

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Got my bike out of the garage to take back to school with me tomorrow. Brakes are going to need a bleed before I go for a ride. Time to learn how to bleed avid brakes again such a fun experience.

Good luck... A majority of the avid brakes I bleed end up pushing chunks of seals into the syringe at some point... That is unless you regularly bleed them, they just don't like to have old fluid in them at all.

I love avid brakes because when they work right, they work REALLY good. But damnit, when they aren't behaving, they're nothing but trouble. Same case with Magura. If you think about it, the Avid Elixir/XO/XX series is kind of like the LGT of the bicycle brake world. Haha

You should just ditch the Avids and get some Hope Tech E4's

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How come you are running without the rear wing?

It probably adds too much horsepower

Yeah, let's set up our own meet in the city every other Sunday. If late afternoon or early evening, my OBXT and I are in.

I'd go! Just as soon as I get the wagon back together…. :roll eyes:

Sheet...im off to my big move...driving out to vegas tomorrow...wish to have met up one last time...

 

Sent from outer space

Good luck on the move! Too bad we didn't get to meet up before you left, I was really looking forward to seeing your "PZEV" Too bad my block blew up just barely broken in…

Well this is a bit older thread but ill update you guys later next week.

 

I have a misfire on my built motor and Cobb plano is doing a leak down/Compression test this week.

 

The motor has 95K on 2816 Forged JE Pistons, Cobb/Crower rods, STI crank, STI Crank and Rod bearings, ARP head studs, Killer B p/u tube.

 

If the motor comes out Ill report back with pictures hopefully on what a piston slap happy motor looks like with almost a 100K and 4 years on it.

 

I am thinking its an exhaust valve issue but it will be interesting to see what the SB looks like

Any updates yet?

Hayes took care of me when that happened as well, and they were out of warranty.

 

I have nothing to knock Magura about other than price.

Yep, can't disagree with you on that. I see no reason a set of MT8's should cost upwards of $90 more than the latest gen XTR system.

Props to Hayes, too, I haven't had to deal with their warranty dept yet but I've only heard good things. I love it when bike companies don't jock their customers around, and take care of them rather nicely. That's how you build a reputation.

Magura has the BEST customer service ever!

My MTS started leaking the other day... From the mater cylinder. So my entire XX shifter and my nice hubs got covered in mineral oil. Thank god it wasn't DOT. I tried to bleed them and rebuild them a few times, but to no avail. So I called them up and asked what can be done about it. Long story short, under their "5 year leakproof warranty" they're sending me a whole new set of MTS, new pads, storm SL rotors, and they're cutting the lines to length for me. Go Magura!!! I know most aren't a big fan of their brakes, but for a lightweight XC bike they simply feel amazing.

Just thought I would share

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Awesome! Glad you got it sorted!

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On a 'sad' note, I have noticed a few guys over here who did have cracked ringland and still were not consuming significant amount of oil...

^I was one of those few. Cracked ringland on 4, and it consumed maybe 3/4 quart every 2000 miles, and that's including the PCV and oil cooler leaks I had.

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Pinkbike made me want a yeti sb66 in the worst kind of way... But then I realized I live in Illinois and 100 of it's 160mm of travel would never be used.

I've definitely checked the "spend half my cars value" box a few times though... It's worth it

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Thanks for the input, folks. I think I'll hold off on the Anthem and keep the Stumpie around for another few seasons, then. I'm more of a weekend warrior type, so she hasn't seen that much abuse over the years and is in pretty great shape overall. I'll just wait until a better deal on a newer 29er, perhaps 2014+, rolls around.

How have I not seen this thread before!

As a bike mechanic, I'm afforded the ability to touch lots of bikes and bike parts every weekend at work. I get to play with GT, Diamondback, Pinarello, Specialized, Pivot, and Giant. If you guys ever need info on new stuff, I may know a thing or two.

Turboboost, I've been racing a 15" alloy 2013 Stumpy for three seasons now, they're great bikes. Specialized never strays too far from the classic geometry of these things, and it just works. They're a little short on travel though. Having ridden an anthem, I find it meh. To this day, the best full-squish bike's I've ridden are the Epic 29 (if you like short travel), and the Mach 429 (if you want more travel).

The Mach 429 was magical, almost Ibis Ripley like in its magicalness.

i think he mentioned like a quart every 1300 miles

Ugh, boy, that's scary territory right there...

I'll give that a shot tomorrow. It's my understanding that the Accessport can only reset codes on the ECU and not the TCU. It was indeed P1718 as well. I forgot to mention I got an ER+HC in the dash as well, but as soon as I restarted the car that disappeared. I'll bet some fluke happened, and now the TCU has that CAN code stored.

If all else fails, I'll disable the code, but I'd really rather not take that route, I'm too OCD about the wagon to let something like that be covered up

what did you try ?

 

on the o5 you need to plug in the two green connectors burried in the fuse box by your left knee, ( they are there i promise ) then when you turn the key on during gauge sweep press the trip meter. thats all ..

^This. That was my problem. The few tutorials I had read over on the outback forums made no mention of that. I actually found a page of the FSM that outlined the process, after a little more research just now, but it said to connect the two white connectors. I did that and it worked! I got 4 codes.. 1 powertrain and 3 ABS:

P1718, C0106, C0107, C0108

That powertrain code is a CAN BUS issue with the TCM, isnt it? I find that very odd.. as I haven't touched anything. I figured the code would go away after a few driving cycles, but a week later it's still there... The other three are for ABS sensors, which I also find odd. No flashing ABS light and once again nothing was touched. I also find it odd that three sensors go bad at once, but ABS issues are for another topic.

I should also add that the wagon drives just fine, and ABS indeed works as well. I took it on a short road trip to Indiana today with zero issues whatsoever.

I believe I have a wiring gremlin

thats funny i have 3 2005 legacy's and i use the on board code reader all the time..

 

also if you look at my signature it clearly says all 05+ legacies have on board code reader. and its super easy to use.

I just realized your sig said that! I swear to god though, I must've tried a million times to no avail...

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P0700 itself means nothing its normally paired with another code. You can see that other code with the onboard code reader in the odometer

I've got a 2005... I believe that whole code reader thing is a no go for me do you know of any other ways to red TCU codes? Maybe FreeSSM?

I get what your saying though. From what I understand it's just the TCU telling the ECU to turn on the light, it could be any number of things.

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A climate control that only works when the ambient temps are comfortable anyways? Talk about annoying!

Good work checking all the relays and such. I'm no super familiar with the climate control electrical bits, but I would say the CC would still probably work despite a bad A/C relay, or fan relay etc... My next step would be pulling the unit out, and locating the harnesses attached to the CC unit. I'll bet, somewhere on here is an electrical diagram of the harness pin-out, and what wires do what. It seems like you're getting cut form power, so I would find what wires supply power, and make sure they're doing so when they need to.

If that all checks out okay, I would look into seeing if there is some type of thermal overload circuit on the CC unit. If Subaru put one in there, and it's malfunctioning, it could be cutting power to the CC unit to avoid overheating(even if its not actually overheating).