MTBwrench

Fuel? Did Graham tune it?

Yessir, Graham did tune it. Save for my stupid fuel harmonic at 2800(which is mechanical and totally out of his control) it's been fantastic so far!

Fuel was Shell 93 octane. E85 numbers will come this spring, he's pretty sure we could top 300 with the same conservative tuning efforts.

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I helped a buddy pull/install the motor in his '02 Forester a few weeks ago, and on pull-day I noticed his neighbors were selling an old 12" spiderman bike at their yard sale. I walked over for the bike, and ended up going home with the bike, a 7' kitchen table, and 4 chairs. They kind of wanted to keep the table, so I went home and brought back my old one as a trade. The whole deal only cost me $40. That's a sweet price just for the monster kitchen table. Anywho... what you said is what I'm going to do with that bike. Cool story huh.

 

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I swear we're living far too similar lives. I'll be doing the same on a '99 Forester this saturday. Headgaskets?

p.s.- Following your build thread makes me jelly I never made one.

Figured I might as well document my dyno numbers to add to the catalog of happy JMP turbo users. Here's the meat n' potatoes:

Maximum Power Run

Power: 302awhp @5400rpm

Torque: 323lb/ft @3100rpm

Safe/Reliable Run

Power: 268awhp @5500rpm

Torque: 255lb/ft @4600rpm

Dyno Conditions

Dyno: DynoJet

Temperature: ~Room Temp

Humidity: 26%

Presure: 29.41 in/Hg

Elevation: 206 Meters

Mod List

-Brand new OEM Shortblock

-B25 Heads rebuilt by Thirlby Automotive on Traverse City, MI (Highly recommended!)

-JMP Custom52

-GrimmSpeed 38mm EWG Up-pipe

-TiAl MV-S External Wastegate (1 Bar spring(s) installed)

-Cobb EBCS

-Cobb 5EAT Catted Downpipe

-GrimmSpeed Top Mount

-Turbosmart Kompact BPV

-GrimmSpeed CAI

-TGV's Deleted, (separator plate left in-tact)

-ID1000 Top Feed Conversion

-Injector Dynamics Braided Lines

-Deatschwerks DW65c

(I think that's all... I've done so much work I can't remember anymore.)

I'm willing to bet it's a slider issue, especially if they're not worn parallel to the backing plate. My fullsize chevy does this regularly. The only solution is new pins and bushings.

It could also be a proportioning valve issue in the master cylinder, or even just bad flex lines up front(if they're OEM).

One of my friends had flex lines go on his TC in the rear, we though the calipers were locked as the rear pads didn't wear at all, and the front went very quickly. Turns out the lines corroded, swelled internally, and basically plugged themselves. We were able to use the front brakes with the rear calipers off!

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http://i.imgur.com/UYB0SWo.jpg

 

Bike service just helped me put this fork on my Bianchi SASS today.

Has K-coat Fox 32 yet still has BB7's. Tsk tsk tsk... May I recommend a brake upgrade?

Anyone try the Fuel Pressure Regulator tricks like the 08+ Impreza guys have been doing for their "stutter" issues?

Are you talking about a direct supply with an STi regulator on the return line?

All this is absolutely boggling my mind... why on earth is vehicle speed impacting spark timing/fueling enough to misfire?!

If I were you, I'd *try* sourcing an oscilloscope to look at the injector signals as vehicle speed changes.

Referring to this diagram:

http://parts.subaru.com/images/parts/subaru/fullsize/B13_05001575.png

 

Part 1AC33 seems to connect directly to the BOV and to the intake header using the small nipple on the left side of the intake manifold. If that's the case, what the hell attaches to the Blue Tee?

That is incorrect. Part# 1AC33 is the fuel pressure regulator reference line, it runs directly from the cylinder #4 intake runner to the fuel pressure regulator assembly mounted on the driver's side strut tower. Part# 14465 is the bypass valve return, which connects the bypass valve outlet to the turbo inlet. The diagram you're referencing doesn't actually display any of the "blue tee" plumbing.

The blue tee connects the bypass valve reference and EVAP purge valve reference to the back of the manifold.

Group mouth hug?

FTFY

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Thanks guys, this has been a fun journey that wouldn't have been possible without this forum and everything you guys have helped with. I might cry...

 

I just took the granny wagon for an exhilarating 1.0 mile drive around the block and it's awesome to have the car moving under it's own power again.

 

Tomorrow I'll give her a nice bath and rubdown and figure out why the BtSsm boost/vacuum gauge is stuck at 0. But first, I'll give myself a much (more) needed shower and enjoy a peaceful night's sleep.

I slept like a baby the night I got the wagon running. You'll feel the best you have in a long while tomorrow morning! I'm glad we're all here to help you. I never would've rescued mine either, had the LGT community not been so knowledgeable and apt to helping me. I'm glad to have the chance to give that back to folks like you (and many others on here).

Quick4dr has a pretty hefty setup with a 5EAT, Blouch Dom 1.5xtr.

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Found it in a bag with the three bolts I thought were MIA.

 

So far ZERO missing pieces for the entire project!

So... IS IT RUNNING YET?!?!

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Roger that.

 

I remember keeping it on when I took the turbo off, and I remember taking it off before I sent it to JMP. I know it's here somewhere. I also remember replacing it with blue silicone hose a year or so ago so it shouldn't be too hard to find once I clean the garage for the 27th time in two months.

My favorite part was having a window open on the wagon, and a dead battery. Every time I would sweep, the interior got a light coating of delicious garage dust.... do that 7 times and you're black leather is grey.

Ps- I win!

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160917/3f39d78b19ea41563015196c20df9077.jpg

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Yup, that's your wastegate reference line... sooooo you have no boost control at the moment. As a quick holdover, if you want wastegate pressure, just run a line from the compressor to the actuator.

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Any recommendations on where to get the +12v signal for my wbo2?

Can I just tap into the wiring for the stock front O2 sensor?

 

I'm mounting the controller halfway under the passenger fender on the little flat spot about 2" from the power steering fluid reservoir.

Are you going to mount a gauge for it anywhere, or just using the controller? (I highly recommend a gauge, mine has saved me a few times). I tapped used a JCS cubby pod, and tapped the controller into the wiring harness for the clock display. My Defi oil pressure gauge is tapped there as well, and so far no issues. That harness has the illumination circuit if you have a dimmable gauge too. Anothe roption is the "IG2" curcuit in the fuse box, use a fuse tap.

Crank gear is the most stressed part of the whole timing system. I replaced mine just to make sure the tooth profile was up to snuff. Mine was kind of polished, but o'wise it looked pretty good at 180K or so. Replacing is cheap insurance IMO.

I almost bought one too, but I said to myself "nah, mine is fine". This is what I get.

I'll be sending the WBO2 signal through the passenger side TGV sensor and I have no reason to run any other wires through the firewall. I'd like to find a +12v power source on the passenger side of the engine bay that only has power when the ignition is on (like the cig lighter). I've read that the ECU probably can't handle that much juice flowing through the TGV sensor wiring/circuitry/whatever, so I'm def not going to do that. It would be extremely convenient if I could just tap into the wiring that goes to the stock front O2 sensor. I'll keep digging around and posting elsewhere to to find out if there's any reason NOT to do that.

 

 

 

Plugs are not in, coils are only partially threaded just to keep them out of the way.

I'm going to fill the motor with oil through the stock front oil pressure sensor port using a garden sprayer and a threaded barb that I bought from someone on here (I can't remember right now). Then I'll turn the motor (w/o plugs) for a little while like most people recommend.

I just re-read this and it negates everything I've typed above, but I'll leave it for reference in case you get any more gauges. There's not too much happening in the way of power sources in that area. Maybe tap into something non-critical like EVAP stuff? We need Flinkly for this one, I believe he's rather familiar with the engine harness.

I've left the plugs in all my rebuilds for priming. I take the oil pump apart and pack it with Clevite bearing guard, then reassemble and loctite the screws. The grease in the pump creates instant suction and primes right away. It ran with no pressure after start up for a second maybe. Outfront taught me that one!

So you're 48 hours ahead of me... I guess we'll have to see who can get to 250/500/1000 miles first.

It appears things have just evened out, got a horrible misfire, and it turns out the crank gear is missing a tooth.

The race to 250 starts tomorrow!

Dude, we are on like the exact same schedule! I just came inside after spending a solid day dropping the motor in and tying up loose ends. Hopefully it's running tomorrow!

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This might be of relevance for you: https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/blow-off-valve-components/cop-514-company23-tmic-stud-kit

For $8 (if you can find it locally) it's a sweet deal. I have this and their blow off valve stud kit as well. They really help with TMIC installation, too, honestly.

Also, why u no GroupN engine mounts? Those stock ones are poop.Well, at least mine were, after stage 2 mods they flopped apart.

Yes, that was exactly my thinking at the time. I have a little description in post #45 in my rebuild thread

 

 

 

I recall the difference in bore diameters was around 1 thou, so not a lot, but any misalignment will show up on the running surface for the seal which, if large enough, could pound out the seal in the long run. Checking the bore alignment with an old cam nose would probably work but it was easy to make a fixture that was a firm sliding fit on each part. I went that route.

 

 

 

If anyone has a spare cam gear assembly they would like to donate to the cause, I'd be interested in taking the gear housing and cover to an industrial hydraulic place and see if we can make a custom O-ring by splicing. I'm kind of dubious about this, 'cause the guy at OutFront that I talked to wasn't able to source replacement seals; they cannibalize old units when they need a seal. I'd expect they already thought of splicing.

Pretty sure I have an extra set!

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IMO I wouldn't mess with the gears unless you are willing to suffer an additional delay and possibly the expense of buying two new gears. You had no metal to metal failure on that engine and it was reasonably clean on teardown.

 

Those formed O-rings are unobtainable. When I took mine apart they were stubbornly stuck to the cover plate and I ended up slightly tearing one even though I was being really careful. They were also quite hard and flattened and I worried about getting them to seal again on assembly. Finally, there are no dowel pins to centre the cover plate. The big dowel you see in the pics only serves to index the orientation. I ended up making an alignment fixture to make sure the cover plate was not off centre with respect to the housing. If any of these issues arise, the only quick solution is to buy a new gear. (Outfront M'sports offers a rebuilding service, but that is not a quick solution.)

 

You can see all of this in my thread. In the end I left the second gear untouched. The one I did take apart was pretty clean inside.

I understand the reservation towards taking on that project, I simply did it because of the mileage on my set. Thankfully, the O-rings came off super easy, and weren't flattened. Also, to re-align my gears I simply lined up the split ring washers with the markings they made when I removed them. I don't think balancing is much of an issue with these as there is an oil actuated steel dowel in one of the rotor arms and nothing to counteract that weight increase anywhere else in the gear. I took the risk, hopefully it bodes well.

Why buy one?

 

Just submit a request to the unofficial "Legacy GT parts/tools exchange program". I'm pretty sure it would fit inside a box with your buckets.

 

 

 

On our way home from my wife's triathlon this morning () I bought an OEM Tools branded 7/8"-22mm o2 socket (p/n 25249) at PoopBoys. I shot a bit of PB blaster on the little sucker and it came loose on the first try. The more I do, the more I appreciate "the right tool for the job". I should have sucked it up and bought the Co.23 valve spring tool...

Random thought, but while you're mid rebuild and discussing the unofficial parts and tools exchange between other (also mid rebuild) members... I have the Company 23 AVCS 5 point torx socket I can lend out if you decide you want to rebuild your cam gears. I rebuilt mine with 215k on them, and they're definitely going to benefit from it. Pretty gunky in there, even with 20,000 miles on Motul.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160912/067e458b76b7cabea42ff16b73b05392.jpg

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That would work. Well done and shadetree mechanic points for you bro.

It's a byproduct of being a poor engineering undergrad.

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