MTBwrench

I've seen this happen before... always chalked it up to the fact that the parts are usually 10+ years old. Plastic has a shelf life, and all most manufacturers care about is that the part lives reliably beyond the warranty period.

 

You definitely aren't in the dark as far as finding a new housing goes though. They're readily available from many non-OE sources.

 

 

But I guess as long as it isn't your car that leaks fuel into the cabin its ok with you...

 

Being the devil's advocate here: Assuming your Legacy is assembled properly... there's no way for fuel to physically leak inside the cabin. There is a steel service door with a foam gasket seal which covers the pump housing. I just don't want any less knowledgeable folks smelling gasoline and having heart attacks when they come here and search the forums for help.

I have my center differential all cleaned and disassembled. I've got the bushings,rem and cryo'd pinion gears and input shaft all ready. I am wondering about having to reshim for new clutch packs?

 

Probably a question better answered by Hexmods... but if it were me, I would be shimming it the same exact way it came from the factory(i.e.- when I took it apart).

^

You misread me completely. It does not clunk into gear... it slides very slowly into gear, whether cold or warmed up. This is not normal because it is different than what it has always done.

 

 

That sounds to me like burnt or worn clutch packs.

 

I've seen this a lot in various forms. It's likely related to the engine. So many support issues I've seen with the 5EAT have been resolved with something as simple as an engine vacuum leak. I do not know what the exact mechanism is, but it's the ECU sending incorrect signals to the TCU. ECU itself is fine, problem is an input somewhere is not what the TCU wants to see at certain moments, such as during your bad shift.

 

 

 

Hmm... I'll have to look into that. The issue is still 100% there, although somehow better with the modified valve body. I'm fairly sure the engine is 100% sorted as everything is new. Buuuut, on that same token, that leaves a lot of opportunity for error.

 

glad to hear. I'm somewhat at that stage with my LGT right now. To the point I've been considering getting a new car. But, it's not really worth anything to anyone else, so I'd probably keep it and get a new car if I did.

 

trying to take a step back and just get it into reasonable order... then go from there.

 

 

We've all been there, I feel ya. I've been there too many times... looking at a laundry list of things that could make a down payment on something newer/more reliable.

 

Didn't realize he made the valve body for the 09. I have a white lgt 09 was the valve body mod worth it in your opinion. Should I get one if I'm pushing 300 hp

 

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There is no valve body for the 2009 5EAT. I believe ClimberD only makes a valve body for the 2005-2007 5EAT model years. By to answer your questions, yes 100% worth it, and if you're talking about 300 at the wheels you may run into problems. 5EATs are all different, and mileage really plays into roles as well. Really, the weakest link is the center diff, which had fragile bearings in the sun gears.

 

 

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The downpipe, assuming it is the most restrictive, will change the flow capability of the exhaust system. An aftermarket downpipe has a larger tubing diameter and less resistive/absent cats. Technically, the same pre-turbo manifold pressure would net higher turbine speed with an aftermarket downpipe, as the heated gasses have much more room to expand, and a much less resistive path to travel post turbo. Obviously there's way more to turbo dynamics than that, but that's how I look at it.

That's almost at an MTBwrench's/Flinkly's Outback level of dirty. Props, that takes some effort!

Why ya gotta point that out. I stopped keeping track when the mod money surpassed the purchase price of the car.

 

I have come to the point of acceptance.

... and dang, i've got way more than that into my car, if I knew, I'd buy this for his asking.

 

Sadly, I'm sure roughly half of us on here, especially wagon owners, can attest to that statement.

Has GS TMIC, upgraded valve body, too many engine rebuilds and claims to not be hooked up smh

 

 

HEY. it's not too many rebuilds. It's only three.

 

Suspension, color coordinated engine bay a a personalized Subaru license plate...ive seen less

 

 

 

Okay guys, I'll revise: VISUALLY I may have the least hooked up wagon. Mechanically.... not so much.

 

 

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I believe I may own the least "hooked up" wagon on here! Nevertheless, I shall post whore.

 

I have issues. I told myself no more car parts this semester. Thennnnn I found an already colormatched JDM rear with the half skirt for an unbeatable price shipped. So its on its way. Just gotta figure out what I want to do about the crash beam.

 

Approaching WRX USA status I see. Nonetheless that's an awesome find!

Well I picked up some deals during the holiday season for both cars

 

Legacy GT wagon is getting some Spec B Billsteins with STI springs , 225/45/R17 Continental DW tires mounted on 17x7.5 +48 TE37s.

 

http://i.imgur.com/g2PPhLi.jpg

 

 

Damn near same setup I have, except I have 55 profile DWS06. You're gonna absolutely love the handling for a daily driver.

I do not disagree not to put it on with an impact. Suggestion was for off. As for on I'd still prefer to use a pulley tool to isolate the crank from spinning. Again more than one way to skin a cat.

 

 

I lack comprehension abilities sometimes.

 

 

 

 

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I've used a large object in the flex plate every time I needed to torque/remove the crank pulley or flex plate itself. The flex plate's sole purpose is to handle torque applied at the TC mounting tabs. Jamming in a screwdriver won't kill it.

 

That being said, jamming a small object in there and proceeding to ram the pulley home with your 1/2" impact is most likely not the best idea. Slow and easy hand torque from a ratchet is perfect.

Hi good night I'm looking for some help with figuring out a problem with my 2005 Subaru Legacy 5AT I'm getting a jerk or (kick) every time the second gear runs out an goes into 3rd gear I did a diagnostic and found that the shift solidnoid sensor C was at fault I change the soilnoid and I'm still getting the same jerk (kick) when the gear change any suggestions will much appreciated..

 

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How did you change the solenoid? From what I've heard the electronics(save for the external harness) are not serviceable units. Perhaps there's a chance that even though you've changed the faulty solenoid, there is still an underlying problem?

FWIW regarding oil consumption:

 

Mine ate a lot of oil and misfired quite a bit till about 1000 miles. After my dyno tune at 1200 miles it completely stopped. It hasn't eaten a drop since, granted I'm only at about 3300 miles. Perhaps you need to give it some beans and seal those rings up?

 

 

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Would definitely buy, given I can afford it. I'll be tuning for E85 this spring, anyways!

 

2005.5 OBXT, 5EAT

 

 

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That's a very cool AOS, what are the disadvantages of it compared to the more traditional ones like IAGs (actual catch can)?

 

I believe the new IAG version is also a true air oil separator, and not a catch can. They've put a baffling system and drain in the bottom now. I personally(having not done a ton of research into the subject) do not like the idea of a catch can for a daily driver. It's another maintenance point to have to look after, and one that has the ability to do some damage as well if not taken care of properly. The glory of an AOS, IMO, is that it's a fully recirculating system. You install it and let it be. I also like that the IAG and Crawford models are heated, as that will work wonders when its 0° outside.

 

(Granted, a catch can probably won't fill up too quickly unless you're tracking the car.)

I've read of that happening, but not how to fix it.

 

Fluid level/type?

 

 

 

Good ole Idemitsu, right perfect at the full line. Maybe 400 miles on it. What's weird was my old trans NEVER did that, until after my engine rebuild. What's even weirder is that the new trans does the SAME thing. It's gotta be TCU related...

 

 

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So I've got a crazy shift shock when slowing to a stop. It happens at 20mph guaranteed every time; loud clank and the whole car jerks. The behavior started after my rebuild(no battery for ~3 months), and is still completely there with my new trans as well.

 

I'm guessing it's TCU, time for a reset?

 

 

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It looks like standalone fluid-fluid cooler/warmers are pretty common on Hondas, so it shouldn't be an issue finding something that'd work. Even using an OEM Subaru oil cooler attached to the transmission filter would probably work.

 

Where would one take/return coolant to run such a thing? As I have a thermostat, presumable I'd stick this before that setup?

 

Wait, I'm confused here... do you have an aftermarket radiator?

That really sounds like a cold fluid issue. I'm pretty sure that just cruising around in frigid temps(even bypassing the air-liquid cooler), lack of the liquid-liquid heat exchange in the radiator could cause your trans to never reach a good enough operating temp. In cold temps, the radiator actually heats the ATF and helps keep it at operating temp. You'd be surprised how little heat is made otherwise, unless you're pushing it hard.

I would have to look at the spare 5eat I have, but I'm fairly certain that harness is part of the trans like the 4eat. It has all of the VB plugs on it/etc as well. It doesn't come off without disassembly. I would bet it's just a dumb junkyard tech.

 

 

 

Make a CL/facebook. It seems someone is always parting out a 5eat lgt. I use to know where 3 different cars were sitting being parted out in WI.

 

 

 

That would be correct. The harness passes into the case and connects to the VB. Problem is, the speed sensor is connected to that harness, and despite t being fully removable, is not sold separately... (which you already know)

 

The problem is, all my searching has led to nothing, mostly due to lack of Subarus in junkyards in my area haha. I was hoping to not make this a three week project... because with my rental costing $33 a day, after a week and a half I could just buy the damn harness and come out cheaper anyways. Ah well, ''tis the name of the game.

 

I've got a few yards checking for me, hopefully something comes up.

 

 

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A junk transmission. I ran into similar issues when rebuilding a 4eat harness that was eaten. Harness was ~$350 too.

 

I figured... too bad a junk 5EAT is impossible to come by in these parts! I've called a few Subaru specific yards, but nobody has junk cores with sensors still in them! If it's not one thing it's another with this damn wagon. Looks like it's a $400 harness or bust.

Does anyone know of a way I can get a turbine speed sensor without buying a $350 harness?

 

The shop cracked them on both transmissions...

 

 

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