battelready

So how many miles do you typically see before the 5EAT requires a rebuild? We have 125k on ours with the aftermarket warranty about to run out. One of our concerns is the long term life of the transmission.

235k on my original with VB mod for the past 30k miles. Still shifts fine .

Can anyone please tell me if stock 04 sti wheels will fit over black brembos from a 2015 sti?

100% will clear. They use the same caliper just different bolt pattern.

Found this guy on Timurs reddit page. Looks really clean .

http://imgur.com/a/Ijejh

This guy is audio goals

http://imgur.com/a/HaJbB

Any thoughts on cat back aftermarket exhaust which is fairly quiet when using very small throttle opening, yet really gets it done when using more than half throttle?

I believe the magnaflow is the best at this. Very deep sound with no rasp. I have one with a resonator and its great.

Who has the most miles on their Ferrari, and how are they not on fire?

I met a guy who daily drives a 360 Moderna. He has like 70k on the clock.

I told everyone the STI was just a corrola on steroids.

http://i.imgur.com/jYnfWjq.png

Just approaching 209,000.

 

After my recent suspension swap, the wagon is now the 4th best feeling vehicles I've ever been in. 1st - Ferrari California, 2- STi 3-BMW Z4.

 

I'm pretty happy with it. Time to save up for an alignment, trans fluid drain & fills, and other little tidbits.

 

 

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California feels like a box truck compared to the 458 :lol:

I was on Whitelines website and they had the stiffer bushings for the Manuals but not the 5EAT. Then I found the Rallitek for the 5EAT. Is this the one you used, battelready? I'm curious if it would work on my 2011 Legacy. I get a clunk when I throttle hard and it's quite annoying. I also have the Whiteline Rear Diff inserts to do but want to know if this helps as well, without any NVH. This is my daily.

Hmm, is it a 5EAT or a cvt? That is the one I got but if you want make sure it fits in the 2011, crawl under and look at the mount right under the transmission.

In other news, the pitch stop causes alot of NVH. But it helps the car feel whole when shifting.

I agree, I experienced the same thing, and it was unbearable for me especially in the winter. So, I pulled the whole trans mount from the car and drilled the blue bushing all over the place without drilling the black mount. I drilled straight holes, holes angled side ways. Whatever I could drill to make it softer, worked awesome! No more NVH, but still with the benefit of improved/connected feeling shifts.

Installed the soft mount and i didnt get the same issues. Are you running other stiffer bushings ?

That blue OBXT tho... Drugs are bad. Well, those drugs are, at least.

Wait, this is the same idiot who was arguing with Fahr because he thinks he's figured out the best way possible to tune a car.

However, they can be modified to be functional with Legacy fenders and can fit 245/40 on 18x9 easily with no camber or rubbing while being lowered.

 

http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae216/eliotteltgroth/_D705093%201_zpsyns88c1n.jpg

Car goals. Flares would also take care of my quarter panel rust. :lol: Pretty sure i follow you on insta as well.

Thanks for the info for your remote button.

 

As for the timer, actually the one that I bought appears to fit the bill. That little thing has 17 different settings! Here is the manual. The developper has even youtube videos to show you how to set it up. I had a couple of questions and he replied pretty quickly. I selected setting #12 from figure 2 and setting #2 from figure 5. I have done some bench testing and so far it does exactly what I wanted it to do (stays on as long as the trigger sees a hot signal--as soon as trigger no longer sees a hot signal, timer begins and my load still gets power for a given time---perfect for the cranking scenario). Final test will be in the car, but I am expecting that it'll work just fine.

 

On a side note, I am planning to buy another one of those to set up a 3rd brake flasher light. In DC, it is a must I think!

I have pulsating brake light for my sti spoiler. It really catches the attention of person behind you.

They make a driveshaft bushing too? Link please!

 

I have group n motor mounts, Perrin pitch stop, Rallitek race bushing, and Whiteline diff inserts. It feels so tight, the way it should've come from the factory

 

 

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http://www.torquesolution.com/Subaru-Sti-Drive-Shaft-Support-Bushings-p/ts-su-dsb.htm

Here ya go.

Installed a raliteck 'comfort' trans bushing and new mount today.

 

Car already has group N engine mounts and pitch stop.

 

I would not install the bushing again, I'm getting a vibration through the peddles/floor now that's minorly annoying, and it didn't improve anything over the engine/pitch stop(would do again)

Maybe it was a bad combo with the engine mounts. I just ordered a pitch stop , center drive shaft bushing and a a comfort trans bushing but with the stock engine mounts. See how it goes.

I don't buy it, I posted and told him he should offer up details in his ad, because he has a unicorn trans there if it's legit.

 

"Can hold 600hp" that's a wild claim, but would be awesome if someone figured out how to do it.

 

 

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I call Bs to the moon and back. People have spent thousands trying what he did. Me thinks he had it built and never ran it or he got played by the builder or something is wrong with it. But if its true, thats a giant leap forward.

Yeah they aren't perfect - with the cold weather they became more evident, but the only one that bugs me is the bottom one and that's because I accidentally scored the bottom of the bezel with my dremel when I was making it. I might replace them with something else at a later date but it beats paying $200 for a JDM bezel and does the job for me.

True. I tried doing what you did originally but i messed up the bezel so i just ordered a jdm one. Maybe you can find strips of plastic that can fit there .

Like this perhaps but in the color .

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/KYDEX-Sheet-0-028-Thick-Black/dp/B00KDMLJ0A/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1454193348&sr=8-12&keywords=plastic+sheet]http://www.amazon.com/KYDEX-Sheet-0-028-Thick-Black/dp/B00KDMLJ0A/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1454193348&sr=8-12&keywords=plastic+sheet[/ame]

For anyone that is using Timur ROM on a nexus 7 2013, I currently have my tablet+USB accessories plugged to the cigarette lighter. As you know, when your key is in the ACC notch, the tablet+accessories turn on, but when you crank, you loose power to the whole system. And then, when the engine starts running, power comes back.

 

The problem is, I notice that the Timur ROM does not like too much this on/off/on business: from time to time, it no longer recognizes the USB devices attached to it. Plus I am sure it is no good for all these USB devices to get power, and then none for 5 sec, and then back on.

 

Question: how can you avoid this without having to hot wire the cigarette lighter? Essentially, I'd like the system to turn on once the key reaches ACC, and when I crank, it stays on. I understand the voltage supplied by the battery may drop due to cranking the engine, but any idea of a simple set up to get this working?

This is really annoying because it messes up my Bluetooth. Maybe a voltage regulator? idk . Ill think of something.