Xenonk

wow, it's been a whole year since i've seen you guys, time really flies! I had a blast last time when I flew out and visited you all. One of these days I'll drive out there in my GT.

I hope you'll upgrade the tires as well, you'll probably overheat the tires too as well. If you are running on the stock wheels, you could do a GT conversion or get a 2-piece rotor OEM sized kit to expell the heat a little bit faster. Get some high-temp brake pads like Carbotech XP8s for street use and Carbotech XP16s if you plan to do track.. the rotor size is pretty good for what they are and considering the weight of the car if you dont want to upgrade the rims. But your tires are really lacking in braking power as well, so you may want to look into better tires for street summer ues and also for track use since you are putting down 125 whp more than me (which is a lot more speed and acceleration). Tires play a huge roll. While you can have the world's best brakes, it's pointless if you are still sliding to a stop due to the lack of grip in the tires. A good and ideal brake setup is the one that can be used aggressively without any fade in performance while locking up the wheels as fast and as best as possible. One thing that is overlooked is that suspension and wheels and tires play a part of the braking potential. You may want to consider readjusting your suspension so that your rear end can do some braking (as we all know that weight transfer happens when you hit the brakes, sending the rear end going up in the air and rendering the rear brakes and tires useless for stopping), so if you want, you can change your suspension settings to give you more braking abilities and also stablize the car more so during braking transitions. Suspension isnt just about lateral movements A tip to driving a car like that on the track is that you have to transitition smoother from accelerating down the straight, ease off the gas so the car doesnt accelerate anymore, allow the car to coast for half a second or 1 second and then apply the brakes progressively.. if you go straight from gas to brakes, your car not only has to deal with the normal braking g forces, but it has to fight the positve gs that you still have. This will make your brakes last longer during a track day. So until you have money for bigger brakes and bigger wheels and wider tires, I would suggest to change your driving style to fit the car's potential and capabilities as well.

I dont recall if the calipers themselves actually use the same brake pad part number. I also dont know if the bolt holes for the caliper bracket are located exactly in the same place. I dont think anyone doing that much short cutting to save a few bucks. The new calipers comes with caliper brackets.. you might as well use all new parts (after all these are brakes we are talking here). It'll just make your install easier as long as you have all the parts and do the comparison yourself. I personally havent done this because everytime I get a set of LGT brakes to put it on an older Subaru, I always just use the LGT bracket because of the different sizes..

ah good, since you ran on VIR before, it makes it easier for me to say that it's not just turn 1 that I'm worried about, it's going into 14, 14A, and the hard stab (I'm not convinced that it's a good idea just to brush on the brakes in the GT) going into 16 that puts a lot more stress on the brakes since you're going in so much faster than 1, 3 and 4. 14 and 14A is at the top of the hill vs 1-3-4, so with that said, the brakes have to deal with the downhill braking zones which puts a toll on them a lot more than the 1-3-4 area where that's flat enough where the brakes won't get as hot. When I go into turn 16, I actually have to upshift first into 4th before I proceed into the turn whereas 1-3-4 is a typical downshift into 3rd (T4 is a 2nd gear corner for our cars, it bogs way too much in 3rd through). You're just carrying speed everywhere as much as possible. So with a hot braking session starting from 14, it's anywhere from 20 to 30 seconds to get from turn 16 to turn 1.. your brakes are still hot at that point and we're about to do another hard braking zone.. simply put: the brakes havent cooled down enough for the next heavy braking zone. The GT just doesnt have the heat capacity in stock form for me to go into T1 and T14 at full throttle and then getting on the brakes by the 3rd brake marker for both in a consistent fashion lap after lap. I know Im doing something near 120 mph every time going into 1 and 14, it's just that the car is too heavy for me to use the brakes that late.. eventually I'll end up in the grass by the 6th or 7th lap after warm-up in the 90F ambient temps...

That I dont know for sure, but to be safe, if you are going through the trouble to get the rotors and the caliper bracket, you might as well get the new caliper that goes with the rotor and caliper bracket. Subaru sells the caliper as an entire kit that comes with the caliper bracket. I dont know for sure if the 2.5i and the GT rear calipers use the same brake pad part. But if you're going to upgrade all of this, you might as well make it more uniform. This will be easier for you to buy replacement parts later when you know that all of your brake parts are now GT parts rather some parts being GT and others are 2.5i and so forth. I think the GT brake setup is good enough for the commute to and from work.. but when you look from a performance standpoint when driven hard or spiritedly, this is where it starts to lack and limit, starting with the brake pads. The car is just simply heavy overall for the size of the pads and calipers and even rotors that it's equipped with once you start to carry more momenutm and speed. I've really pushed hard on the stock size rotors to where the brakes were really taking a beating here and there. The concern is that it can't take that kind of beating for longer periods without some kind of heat capacity help or some kind of better cooling effect on the heat disapation (sp?). In general for a stock powered GT and me running on 245 wide r-compound tires, the car really needs something like 15" rotors and brake ducts to survive qualifying-pace laps for 25-minute long sessions in 90F. Right now with the stock brake setup with just better rotors, pads and fluids, I can only run about 5 or 6 laps before I experience the beginning signs of brake fade in the 90F. It's a really bad sign when my rotor temperatures are reaching 2200+F. The brake pads I have are designed to operate in the range of 1200F to 1800F. That 400F of extra heat is where I'm getting my brake fade. I need to tone down my entry and transitions into the brake zones to brake safely.. if I continue to barrel down the brake zone at the very last split second before I jam on the brakes, the car will surely see the grass or sand trap at the end of the straight within the next few following laps. Normally I end up taking 2 cool down laps and end my sessions shorter now because of the amount of heat my brakes generate and it takes a lot longer for the brakes to cool down than it is to heat up.. Now only if I can get my hands on some Alcon-water-cooled brakes that the WRX WRC car has.. then I can left foot brake all day long and have my throttle fully pegged to the floor through the entire course.

nah, you need the caliper brackets as well.. when you go with larger rotors, you need to get the corresponding caliper bracket since you are forced to relocate the caliper location in respect to the new larger diameter rotor.

never know, some tracks like Mid-Ohio is pretty fast too. There's nothing wrong running with XP16s and XP10s as well with street tires, it's just that you'll really have more room to lock up the tires quicker and the temperature ranges are a bit higher which allows you to pounce on the brakes more so. I wouldnt say it's too aggressive since I've used XP16/10 combo with Azenis in the rain and it's easy enough to modulate. I dont know your suspension setup well enough to know if you are overheating the front rotors or not. On my set of the DBA4000 rotors, I managed to turn all 3 color strips to their respective color which means I maxed out even their highest temperature indicator of 1150C (which is 2100F degrees). I went out and got some help from my sponsors and got some 1250C temperature brake paint and i still changed that color as well.. at this point, 1250C+ is well over 2280F+ degrees.. Iron's melting point is around 1500C or around 2850F.. so at this point, my brakes are starting to glow in broad day light and the brake pads start to fade after running qualifying-lap pace for 25 minutes.. The XP16s dont normally sense fade that quickly, they just get used up way quicker.. I may get some early notion of brake fade and I would start stretching the brake zones by coasting into them than going all out. This buys me time to allow the brakes to slowly come down and get back into grip and into a more reasonable operating temperatures. i don't have specs for the Carbotech pads specifically, but generally speaking that I've seen for track pads, the highest operating temperature range I've seen is around 2100F, but most fall around the 1800F range. I believe some other metallic type track pads like Performance Frictions are way higher in metal content and probably have an operating temp range possibly in the 2200F range or higher.

slots are more of a way to prevent a brake pad from glazing the surface, it's basically trying to find a way to shim off the layer of the brake pad to keep the brake pad surface fresh.. of course you can still overheat a brake pad with or without slots.. it's all depending on the conditions you put your brakes through. The slots are only there to buy you time to keep your brakes from fading out on you, but if you continue to drive hard, it really doesnt matter as you will eventually glaze the pads.

1. Sounds like you may have boiled out the ATE fluid. Eventhough it's just 2 weeks old, that doesnt mean that the fluid can't boil out and fade on you. With the weight of our cars on a hot day, the brakes can easily glow in broad day light if you drive them hard enough and get them that hot. I've boiled my fluid pretty often when I ran on ATE and I would change out my fluid about every track weekend because the ATE was cheap enough to replace. With the Motul and Prospeed, I change it a lot less.. But if you are getting brake fade but still firm pedal feel, most likely your brake pads are glazing and overheating on you. 2. Yes, I have ran staggered pads (Carbotech XP12s up front, XP8s in the rear). That is way one of the better setups that balances out the brake wear. I plan to use more of XP16s in the front and XP10s in the rear since the rear doesnt get hot enough to where I need XP12s or matching XP16s. Also if you changed your suspension, that can also play a little bit of influence as to which set of the brakes get warmer or faster operating temps. Overall, the difference of running higher temp pads in the front combined with high-frictional brakes in the rear is very minor in the brake balance (some of the drift cars that uses the e-brake caliper system would use high frictional rear pads to make sure the pads would bite, but under normal braking, the brake bias on the setup of the car is way more important than the actual compound since the front brakes will do a lot more work than the rear.. unless you drive a Rear Engine car like a Porsche which I have yet to understand their brake bias setups). 3. That bit of discoloration could be an indication of you glazing your brake pads (my guess is that you are turning your rotors blue). As long as the rotors have a usable thickness and they are not warped, you should be ok just for practice use. Normally I just end up buying new rotors instead since stock ones are cheap enough as back-ups to get me home. I've been using DBA4000 rotors which I put them through hell and these have come back from it (considering that I've got these rotors past 1250C and they are doing ok.. they are showing significant wear since I did put over 2,000+ track miles on them, but they havent really cracked through yet, just a lot of surface spider cracks that's common to high heat exposure). I think Subaru did a good job designing the GT to be a very streetable car, but when it comes to track use, I think it they should have used a bigger, thicker rotor OR lighten up the car by a good 300 lbs at least. If you are getting your rotors and pads that hot, I'd suggest going with a higher temperature pad (like Carbotech XP12s at least, or run the Carbotech XP16s like I do and run XP10s in the rear). I currently use r-compound tires and the rest of my car is on stock power, so really my brakes are fine. But if the ambient temps get up past 90F, I would be more conservative with the braking and I'm starting to look into brake ducting as well as running a two-piece rotor to disperse the heat a tad faster. The rotor will still go through hell, but at least overall, the brakes should perform more consistently at higher temp ranges. Normally I dont turn rotors, I normally just throw them out and get new ones. Of the high speed braking I do using fairly hard brake pads, I'm basically turning my own rotors while I'm driving. Consistent threshold braking will definitely get rid of any pad deposits that you have anyways so long as you are operating the brakes at a targeted level that the pads are designed to do. 4. The RT-615s will take in a quite of bit of heat cycling before they harden. If you started driving the RT-615s at full tread, then most likely by the time you put in about 20 to 30 sessions/cycles, expect them to feel harder and possibly not as grippy or more 'greasy' feeling. Some people shave their tires to make it more of a full slick prior to driving on them so that they can make the best use out of the tire.. the Azenis benefits from this since the tire wear on the Azenis is pretty good if the alignment isnt too aggressive on the toe-in or toe-out. Best thing to do for the Azenis to make them last is to not to over heat them. A tire pyrometer is handy at this point to make sure your tire temps arent going over 180F all across the tread (160F is ideal for just practice and good tire wear). Tire rubber starts to melt around the 270F range, so if you are heating your tires around 210F to 230F, you may want to back off some on your driving if you want your tire to sustain longer driving periods. It's definitely not hard to get your tire temps to spike to 260F during a corner (hence you see sticky black tire marks under the braking zones and corners at the track, the tires are literally melting away and trying to convert all that energy going into one direction into another by the form of heat and friction). Even many autocrossers who only drive .5 miles or 1 mile per run would use water sprayers for the tires after their runs (I know I do). Keeping the tire in the optimum temperature range will ensure you of a more consistent grip. You'll know when you over drive a street tire as a few things happen (so long as you are being consistent as a driver which is the key to driving fast): 1) tires start to squeal earlier in the sessions even though you are not entering faster through the turn 2) braking zones start to get longer and the steering wheel starts to feel loose at turn-in than the previous corner 3) turn-ins and track-out points are not matching up to your inputs as the previous lap.. when you find yourself making adjustments to make the car repeat the same line, that's when you are experiencing the changes in the car's status. 4) you find yourself tracking-out earlier, but you didnt change the turn-in radius or the timing of unwinding the wheel earlier 5) the suspension of the car is responding just fine during weight transfer (vertical movement), but the car is not laterally (horizontally) moving where it needs to be. You will have to understand the difference between "yaw" and "roll" of your car. Yaw is more of a sliding function while roll is more of the tipping/leaning aspect of the car.

does it even have camber plates? it looks like it's very limited on the adjustments.. you should get the car corner balanced to make the most of the setup.. after all, you paid for all that, might as well get the car preloaded and corner balanced to get the most of it.

ah thank you unclemat. I had a total brain fart, at my office I have my 2005 Legacy brochure that's just sitting here. there's also a difference in the 2.5i and 2.5i limited. the 2.5i is 10.8" front vented/10.6 rear solid the 2.5i limited is 11.5 front vented/10.6 rear solid the 2.5GTs (both non and limited) are 12.3 front vented/11.3 rear vented. the only part that I don't know for sure is the rear drum hub for both cars.. if they are the same, then the only thing you need in the rear would be the caliper bracket. I believe both the GT and the 2.5i use the same brake pad (which also uses the same pads as the 2002 WRXs I think, but call up Eric at Brakeswap.com for that answer since I dont have my brake pad chart handy.

^the rears on the 2.5i and the GT are the same size (and as I remembered it). But as for the vented vs non-vented, that part I dont remember (but that's simple to find out anyways). The rear calipers and brackets should be the same as the GT rears, so really the rear would need a new rotor and pads.. I have a feeling that the 2.5i rear rotors are vented (I cant imagine having a solid 20mm thick rotor in the rear.. If it was non-vented, it I can't imagine it being anything thicker than 10mm.

the front brakes are the only thing that would differ.. You need a 17" rim to clear the GT brakes. To do the swap, you just need: GT front calipers GT front caliper brackets (usually included with the caliper from the dealer) GT front rotors GT front brake pads Brake Fluid of your choice the total cost shouldnt be more than $500 for all of it (since the rotors can be found at cost for about $75/each shipped). The calipers and brackets should cost around $90 to $100 each side. And the brake pads should be around $90 shipped.

nothing wrong with ATE and definitely nothing wrong with using Motul RBF600.. the higher the wet boiling point, the better it is as it prevents the fluid from asborbing moisture.. with that in mind, your fluid can last a bit longer in the system than the typical brake fluid you buy from the auto store (unless they actually sell that kind of high end stuff).. higher performing brake fluid has a lesser chance of boiling over, which causes a mushy brake pedal feel. Up to date, I have tried Castrol SRF and Prospeed GS610. The Castrol SRF is pure racing brake fluid that is on a planet of its own (and at $90/litre, it is). Is it worth it on a street car? Probably not, but it sure has lasted more than 70,000 miles on my brother's WRX as a street driven car. The Prospeed is a notch higher in overall performance than the Motul RBF600.. both the GS6100 and RBF600 are way more than adequate for street use. Currently I run Techna-fit lines and got them from http://www.brakeswap.com.. the coating and jacket are fairly thick and all issues have been resolved (as I was one of the first people to test-fit a set on our cars to make sure all is well).. the other brand you can get are STi brake lines (which in my opinion you are strictly paying for the name) and the other is the Goodrich brake lines which comes in two forms of either coated or non-coated.. I havent figured out which one the GT uses, but I'd had my fair share of running a non-coated line and I frankly would like a coated line to prevent any abrasions from road debris. Hope that helps.

I dont know if Ion does make a blank or not, but I do know that DBA makes a 4000 series in a blank rotor.

slots were basically designed to prevent the brake pad from glazing..they basically cut away your brake pad surface of the over-harden surface from the extreme heat.. it was not designed for heat dissapation. Vanes of the rotors, using larger rotor surfaces and wider vanes, using 2-piece aluminum hat rotors, and using brake ducts is all about heat transfers and heat dissapation.. slots have nothing to do with heat transfers or heat dissapation.

it's not much of an upgrade, it's better off with the GT rotors and calipers since the weight of the 2.5i resembles more so with the GT than the WRX.

On a GT, going from the GT rotors down to the WRX 4 pot rotors is a downgrade (the weight of the car is going to put a toll on the brakes).. the GTs are a tad thicker (which a few years back there was a comparison of which dimension was worth looking into and the thickness of the rotor had a larger impact in performance than a slightly larger rotor diameter under repeative track-speed braking. Also, the pistons are smaller on the WRX 4-pistons compared to the GT 2-piston floating caliper. Now, you can do the upgrade to lighten the unsprung weight and also change the brake bias slightly to the rear.. but in my opinion, there's no sense in changing the brake balance if your rear end is already light under braking and there's no usable braking power if the rear end of the car is coming off the ground.. any tire that leaves the ground or has little weight starts to become useless in terms of providing grip.

you have to determine what conditions you are using your brakes.. it's pointless to run around with rotors that you will never use to its capacity (as you are carrying more weight than what you really need) and you dont want to mess with caliper sizing (as that can change the brake bias without needing a brake proportional valve)... you really have to take some time to evaluate your needs.. once you figure out what your brake needs are, it will be easy to figure which calipers or rotors fit your needs, from performance to price to practical use.

Not all true for track pads as Carbotech track pads are pretty rotor friendly on their end (the DBAs and stock rotors have both survived equally 30,000 miles each and each had around 2500 miles of track driving (which is around 25 days of track driving, which is about right since I do about 11 to 12 track events a year and averaging 100 miles of driving each day).. Hawk, Performance Friction and some of the higher end of the Ferodos are rotor-eaters.. Just take caution for those who do drive with track pads to the track during that morning.. although it shouldnt be done, it could be done if it's a short drive and you're not using your brakes or dragging them out.. normally it IS best to change them AT the event. There's a smaller scale that autocrossers want that are ideal for the spirited daily driver.. that spectrum is the harder part to find as you want a brake pad that is high in bite, can cover a larger range of temperature while still be operative in the cold.. the trade-off is the additional dust and possibly some noise.. but a certain price can fix the dust and noise issue at the expense towards a lesser bite. From the brake pads I have used up to this point on the GT can go like this for the listing from a track brake pad down to daily driving (stock).. the numerical order I put them in does not mean that #1 is the best overall, it simply means that number #1 is best suited for dedicated track while number #10 is best for daily driving.. from 4-8 is great suited for autcross use for our cars... I ranked an XP8 (eventhough it is a track pad for the most part) but because our cars are soo heavy, we generate soo much heat.. the Endless SSMs can handle up to 900F, while the XP8s exceed that for it to be used better on the track.. up to date, on track, the most I ever got my rotor temps is just under 1250F (I used some rotor temp paint to test it as I got help from KNS Engineering and Brakeswap). 1. Carbotech XP16 2. Carbotech XP12 3. Carbotech XP10 4. Carbotech XP8 5. Endless SSM 6. Endless SSY 7. Endless SSS 8. Carbotech Bobcats 9. Hawk HPS 10. Endless Vita Nuovas 11. Stock Whenever the HP+ comes out for our cars from Hawk, it may fall in the range of 4 or 5.. as it's another entry level track pad.. Hawk does make HT series and DT series track pads but I doubt they'll make a set for our cars in those compounds since it's not a popular pad type for them to be profitable to sell. I looked around for some Titan Kai Project Mu pads, but they fall around the performance of Endless SSY range.. nothing too special. Endless CC-A and CC-X are around the 3 to 4 range, but they are pricey. I havent found another pad out there that's actually cost effective and worth buying for now. if you are in a bind, it's best to get a set of stock brake pads for daily driving and a full set of carbotech XP16s for the track.. if you MUST drive on a track AND daily drive it, get a set of Carbotech XP8s.. the Endless SSM could handle track.. but at $400 to $450 for a full set of Endless SSM brake pads and have them get eaten up in one weekend of track, it's just simply not cost effective (unless you want to show off the fact that you can track the car and come into the pits with a spotless/dustless wheel).

that's actually a down grade.

I chose the SS-M because I know how hot rotors can get. Bobcats are around the 750F range of course they will overheat on the track as well. I opted the 990F of the SS-Ms because they can double as a track pad (if necessary).. Typical track days on tracks that are hard on the brakes can easily climb to 1200F on the GT (after 3 weekends worth of testing and many experiences with others on the BMWs and even on my old WRX). With conservative track driving, the SS-Ms can handle the 1000F mark and after a few hot laps, just have to tone down the driving and treat it like an endurance race situation where modulation and early braking is the key. I always opt people to find pads of higher operating temps north of 1000F for track days. Autox on the other hand, require low temperature range because you are only driving at most 2 miles for the entire day for an event. So you need to get those brakes hot ASAP under a short distance. If anyone gets the chance to see a friction vs temp chart brakes, there's a "dyno" looking graph that shows where the "sweet" range for the brakes to work to give you the highest coeff. of friction of the pads (hence brake pad mu's are given in a range and not some exact number). SS-Ms happen to have a HUGE range for temperatures which allows awesome application for lager cars and larger range of use but sacrificing the higher coeff. of friction of other pads. The benefit to that pad is that it's quiet and dustless, making it a real performer when it comes to having a street car that's great for daily driving. A downside to the pads is that they are priced higher than most. In my opinion, they are a great pad for what they can do, but it can sure do a lot.. so really it's a bang-for-the-buck type of brake pad for street use, especially spirited driving while looking good Hope that helps.

a lot of the websites are being updated.. I know endless is reworking their entire page, but the links to their brake pads still work.. it's just that on their website, they dont have a link to those pictures anymore, but the pics are still on their server. Im just waiting for everyone to just update their websites.. of course, there's nothing wrong with a phone call to their engineering tech and get the numbers through them. Yes, IMO, EBC does does compared to every other brake pad out there that is made for the similar price and that you can get a pad that has one or two more better attributes than theirs. The easiest thing to do is talk to Eric at http://www.Brakeswap.com or Kelly at http://www.gtworx.com as they have the list of the pads that would fit your needs for practically any type of use. They sure dont have a problem if you want the NASCAR grade brake pad that can handle well over 1500F from Hawk if that's what you need (I believe that brake pad doesnt have a high mu the last time I checked). 90% of the pads sold now are better than OEM pads because there's so many people out there that are trying to help themselves to this vast market of aftermarket tuning. If you want some bite and you dont care about the other two factors (noise and dust), Carbotech makes some very well mannered brake pads that would fit your description as their pads are well into the .5s and .6s for mu once they are heated up.. some of their track pads have gone as high, if not, over the .7s range. As for pedal effort, even if you did the lines and switched out to some Prospeed GS610 brake fluid and you STILL DON'T like the feel, then the only thing remain is to buy the Master Cylinder from the Spec B to improve it. There was a thread that many talked about the 05's pedal feel that could be related to the master cylinder. If anything, do what I did, get better suspension parts to prevent head-dive / weight transfer. That way your rear brakes can be actually useful for once. Couple that with even stickier tires and basically brake issues arent even an issue by this time. My "upgrades" for track use have just been brake fluid and pads, all else was stock.. and that held up fine doing 130+ mph braking throughout the day of 160 minutes of total driving in a weekend (that's more than 100 times of 130+ down to 40 mph during the weekend). If anyone is going to crack, warp, or destroy a rotor, it's going to be me. And believe me when I do a lot of testing for brake components for the GT using different types of pads and rotor combinations and as well as tire combinations to go with that. I barely got around to even establishing a good bench mark simply that I am not at the track often enough to have similar ambient temps and track conditions to make it worth posting to show something worth looking at. But through my experience and to be back on topic, the GT brakes dont suck, it's what you put them through in comparison that will make it suck. For daily driving as a CONSERVATIVE driver (because that's what the car was geared towards.. the mid 30s person that "graduated" from the life of a WRX). Seriously, if people are going to get on the brakes that hard from 100 mph down to a near dead stop all the time, maybe it's time for them to rethink what or how their driving really is because they are not understanding the difference of abusing the car and car-preservation. Think 24-hour races people, they are not out there to drive balls out, they are there to drive the car at the limit to make it last throughout the entire race.. so in that regards, it's your job as a driver/owner to make your car last as long as possible, so that means you have to re-evaluate how you take that corner or how you slow down to a redlight. If you dont care how to change your driving habits, then dont complain how fast parts wear out. It's just plain simple. There isnt a car setup in the world that can be the king of every situation. You cant take an endurance tarmac race setup and expect it to work in the snow and rally well. It's not just thinking about the comprimise, it's about understanding what aspects you are trying to comprimise.

you can find it Endless post all of that stuff for their brake pads. You need better searching skills Here's a thread I did some info contribution of Endless SS-M pads: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25491&highlight=endless+pads specifically post #18: The Endless SS-Y operates from 30°F to 720°F with a friction coefficient range of 0.38 to 0.48 and is more comparable to the GS5. The Endless SS-M operates from 35°F to 990°F with a friction coefficient range of 0.3 to 0.4 for easy modulation http://www.endlessusa.com/products/categories/subico5.jpghttp://www.endlessusa.com/products/categories/subico3.jpg Here is the charts for the SS-S (comparable to the HP+) and CC-X (comparable to the Ferodo DS 2500).. http://www.endlessusa.com/products/categories/subico4.jpghttp://www.endlessusa.com/products/categories/subico7.jpg And for kicks, Endless has pads that are comparable to Carbotech's XP10 and XP8: http://www.carbotecheng.com/prod-ct-compounds.htm vs: http://www.endlessusa.com/products/categories/subico2.jpghttp://www.endlessusa.com/products/categories/subico1.jpg I went with Carbotech pads over Endless for the dedicated track pad namely I can get the Carbotechs easier and cost less. I had one that listed Carbotech Bobcats and some of their other other pads.. I had a hard time finding out the Hawk stuff, but their estimated numbers for coeff. friction and heat range was good enough for me to know and work with.

yes, 04.. you'll need an adapter kit and some other stuff for the rear Brembo stuff.. you'll have to look more on the boards for that one.. I dont know the full answer on this particular setup because I frankly feel that the stock brakes are just as good.. but I'll keep reading up on the conversion for Brembo rear BBK..