Xenonk

Fronts are, rears are not.

Too many to list, just PM me for questions.

does it say anything about it in the Manual (Ask Manuel)?

do you happen to know what B41 connects to? looks like from the diagram that it may be connected to something near or similar? that's cool that B228 can be tapped for more uber cool stuff, (im still thumbing through my manual to find out the pinouts for B228s 10-pin connector to see what signals are running out of there..)

They are now discontinued. The set I sold for was $750 with the Junction box, the main unit, the 4 senders (2 psi readers, 1 EGT probe, 1 Low-temp water/oil probe) and all the wiring that went with it. I bought the MattJK 7" double din screen for my WRX at the time. So for a total of over 10 gauges for the price of $1150, It's worth it. The speed signal wire will be helpful later when I will be mating such things as the TRAQMATE ( http://www.traqmate.com/ ) later on and give the GPS unit something better to read about. It's something to calibrate the GPS instead of depending on the accelerometers to do the work. I'll need some fancy data-acq stuff to make use of the driving techniques and car performance use when I am running the GT. Dynos can only do so much for you when it comes to tuning. On-road applications just make it that much more worth the money to know that there are other ways to go fast than to depend on just pure power alone (especially for one that pussy-foots the throttle halfway on the exit of a turn or at a turn where the driver could have gone full-throttle).. Just because a car can make 500 whp at 5000~6000 rpms, it means nothing when the car is in gear and your foot isnt pushed down all the way. Again, thanks for the finding of the wire. I hope that when I get around to installing some video equipment that requires some splicing for some data to mate with it to get some real-time feedback, then it's going to be soo worth it to replay and watch it all to know where you can just that much faster and quicker. Here are a list of units I was looking into: http://www.g2xtreme.com http://www.racereye.com http://www.advantagemotorsports.com http://www.aimsports.com/auto http://www.pixpress.com

PERFECT! All your gauges on one screen. Nuff said I was even desperate enough to install the LCD on my sunvisor (rice style) but I sold it because I got tired of looking for the Speed Sensor wire and I didnt think I wanted to deal with messing with the ABSCM.

way to actually find the wire! Snoman gets a +2 from me. Good finding, I was about to give up on finding the actual wire due to the CAN system and I thought the actual sending unit and such were built IN the gauge cluster. With this new findings and what not, I could have kept my HKS CAMP unit oh well.. onto newer and better things with this new-found knowledge. Thanks for the work and documentation.

unlike power mods, car control is different issue. Suspension and brakes and tires should be done in a way to meet your needs of the situation. A good example is: There is no point in running a set of tarmac coilovers if the driver tends to take the car offroading and needs something similar to stock ride to adapt to the situation So in the brake situation, I dont think everyone needs to run lines, nor I dont think everyone needs BBKs or pads as well if it doesnt suit their needs. These are things that you upgrade based on what you need to accomplish. If you look from my stand point for SCCA autox rules, I can only go up to the Stage 2 or 2.5 setup.. could I use more? Sure. Let's leave this free to choose based on what people need.. it's definitely overkill for a person to have a stage 5 kit when it's just going to be a daily driven car.. it's just fueling the notion of having stuff for the sake of having stuff. It's silly to have a street car running on STREET pads with a set of 12 piston caliper on stock sized rotors (mocking at the stage 3 setup) and expect it to run well on the track.. it's just not going to happen. Oh btw, you are missing stage 6, 7 and 8 (if this was the case): Stg 6 Brake Duct Cooling System Stg 7 Dual Master Cylinder Stg 8 ABS reprogrammed or disable In-Car Brake Bias Switch honestly, you can mix and match what you need to make it work. I, for one, see no point of a person getting a stage 5 kit when they are still running on street tires.. how much lock up does one need? Also, if one wants better pedal feel, someone can get even better thinner lines and a bigger master cylinder to move even more fluid... will this help brake distance? I dont think so at all. And you cant really compete in brake pads giving performance IF it's not working in its intended range.. As a warning, please dont think you can use stock pads and actually try to out-brake a Porsche GT3 into turn 1 at 160+ mph on the 3rd brake marker, your pads can't take that kind of beating, and dont think that your upgraded street pads can do that too, because it wont. I might have to bust out some other info or FAQs or "Keefe's Recommondation" list that may clear some things up that will seem sound and direct to ensure that the performance will fit the needs of the owner's desires.

http://www.gtworx.com or contact http://www.racecompengineering.com for that info.

Endless SS-M.. I rather have less bite and more heat capacity all while having NO DUST and NO NOISE I happen to like smoother modulation on the brakes (better pedal feel and modulation than a hard initial bite, especially for just street driving.. and it doesnt hurt for me to drag out the brakes some if I have a loaded car). SS-Ms have lasted me about 30,000 miles with track days and autox days.. so if I didnt do all of that, it should have lasted me about 50,000 miles or so..

See above posts.. they should fit fine.. Prodrive will fit fine as well.

yes, just the low-beams... disable the DRL's to make your bulbs last longer, I believe it runs on lower voltage....

All the yellow bulbs and clear amber bulbs I can find: http://www.eautoworks.com http://www.eautoworks.com/html/ORD-1-1-1-21967.cfm http://www.eautoworks.com/html/ORD-1-1-1-23600.cfm http://www.eautoworks.com/html/ORD-1-1-1-906.cfm http://www.eautoworks.com/html/ORD-1-1-1-21964.cfm http://www.eautoworks.com/html/ORD-1-1-1-2626.cfm http://www.eautoworks.com/html/ORD-1-1-1-23846.cfm http://www.eautoworks.com/html/ORD-1-1-1-14387.cfm http://www.eautoworks.com/html/ORD-1-1-1-23933.cfm http://www.eautoworks.com/html/ORD-1-1-1-7045.cfm http://www.eautoworks.com/html/ORD-1-1-1-21984.cfm

shouldnt I have over 14 entries on the first post? I'll add/fix the post later

I left this open for everyone to make up their own choice of which company to go with.. but here is the range specs that you should be looking for: Operating Temperature : 0 degrees F and up (some are 32 degrees F). Look for a wide range if you can. I believe the Carbotech Bobcats are 32F to 750F. Coeff. of Friction: Look for something high, something above 0.38 and up. I believe Carbotech Bobcats have something high as 0.45 and up. Stock is about 0.28 to 0.32... this number represents the amount of initial bite you will feel.. this number will also relate to how much heat you can build up to warp your brakes IF you are the type that ride on the brakes on your daily commute. Change your braking habits and you won't have warping rotors Brake Dust/Noise: I am leaving this up to everyone to decide.. some are noisy, some are quiet.. some are really dusty, while some are dust-free.

I track my car and I dont have these issues (and I stop from 120 mph down to 40 mph every 1 min or so during a 30 min sessions 6 times during a weekend = 3 hours of hard driving). Are you locking up the brakes? It's possible that you already boiled your OEM brake fluid (which explains the squishy brakes). You should look into better tires to help raise the level of grip. If you have the ABS kicking in, that means you are locking up the brakes, and the tires are to blame from this point on. Previous years of the WRX brakes are smaller, so that's something you don't want. You should upgrade your brake pads.. it's also possible that you have glazed your pads or left a lot of the OEM brake pad deposits (aka dust) on the rotors to cause it to shake. Warping comes from the heat and cool-down process. Be light on the pedal pressure, you don't need to slam on the brakes (as there is a LOT of clamping force from the stock calipers). From what I am understanding from what you are typing, it sounds like majority of the people on these boards that complain about the brakes are getting me think of their driving habits. A proper smooth braking technique will save you from not just life-threatening situations, but you can prolong your brakes more. I am currently over 32,000 miles on the stock rotors (over 1000 miles of road track, and over 100 miles of autocrossing).. I only upgraded my pads at 10,000 miles because I wore out my stock pads from driving hard on a daily basis. I also upgraded my fluid as well so that it doesnt boil over at the track days. The rotors have never been turned/resurfaced. I have no shakes, pulsating, or warp rotors from the braking that I do.

yes, provided that you probably need to cut off the brake dust shield, retain the caliper bracket, and have wheels that can clear the calipers. Just remember that the bolt pattern for the Legacy is 5x100, so that means a 2005 STi rotor would not work on this car. Also check for thicknesses of the rotor when you start to mismatch the rotors and calipers. I am not sure of what the specs are for the 2006 WRXs (other than it being fitted with OEM Subaru 4-pistons/2-pistons with probably the same OEM dimensions as OEM 2005 rotors). But the question that I should ask you is: "What IS your braking problem?"

Xenonk Approved! Stickied. Keefe

we should move this to the Maintenance Walkthrough section, and objections? Keefe

can someone just post my 8 to 10 pics worth of rims I had on my GT? I am too lazy to re-post them Keefe

ummm, this can be one LONG list.. I would be posting forever.. there are just too many rims to list.... do you want this to be a thread for photos of aftermarket wheels?? or just wheels that can fit on a GT? Or living proof of the member's wheels of what they have fitted on their car? Cuz this list can really get really long.. It's best to leave it as an on-going thread for now since everyone will be putting their two cents in... we try to reserve the sticky portion to be quick reference look ups as more of a FAQ or Temporary Notices for certain sections. If the thread gets long enough with a lot of information and pics, I will re-evaluate the content and sticky it if need be. Keefe

I would like to say there is basically two types of performance driving. One is driving for qualifying/sprint-race speeds (pushing 10/10ths or even more so to get the fastest time and disregarding the parts on the car for damages because at the end of qualifying or a short sprint race, you'll replace them anyways for the next race). Expect to see a lot of cracked rotors and the such at these kind of speeds. The second type of performance driving is known as the race speeds (pushing the car to the limit that will outlast the other drivers and their cars, this is very common when it comes down to enduro races). Slotted and Cross-drilled rotors are made for a reason still. 24-hour and 12-hour races have a meaning of how to stay in the race with precision and conservative driving at the highest level. Sure, cross-drilled rotors do crack, but for track practice and learning the lines and conserving your brakes to last for the day isn't. http://www.racingbrake.com has made some of the better racing rotors I have dealt with (over Baer, Project Mu, and even Brembo rotors). Not all rotors are designed the same way, as some of the brake rotor's veins for cooling go a long way and number of holes also add up to the structural integrity (or lack of) about the rotor. I have been on the losing side of a 3-hour enduro as my team lost the race in their class (leading 2nd place when the front full blank rotors and race pads finally glazed up at 2 hours and 58 mins, of which we did an attack starting from 4th place at the last 10 laps which made them overheat). The driver lost all braking power on the 2nd to final lap and buried the car into turn 1's tirewall at http://www.virclub.com Keefe

Carbon Ceramics = expensive, and they have a very short lifespan.. they are also lighter in weight and can deal with a high operating heat range, but once they cool down from that high, that's the end of their life cycle. Eventhough Porsche offers them on their Production cars, it's a very costly option to have (think in the range of $20k to $35k for a set, front and rear and matching brake pads and calipers). On the street, they will work like any brakes, nothing special.. the real potential is when they are driven hard and that there's no fading that occurs during the operation of high heat. Keefe

thanks Mr. Moderator! Keefe

I decided to put this FAQ together to help people decide how about going upgrading brakes as well as helping people fimilar how to buy brakes to fit for their needs. Not everyone need 16" rotors front and rear and still complain about how they can't stop better than stock. Q: How does one stop the fastest/shortest? A: It really starts with the tires. Brakes are one thing, but the main concern is about how the tires grip the road to stop. Q: Tires? What? I thought we were talking about brakes? A: Tires are the only thing that keeps the car in contact with the road, you are relying on 4 little patches of rubber to keep a 3000+ lbs car on the road. So yes, tires do make a difference. For example, if both cars had super awesome brakes, but one car had rubber soft slick tires while the other car had just bare rims, which one would stop faster? It's obvious that the tire will get into better grip (friction) with the road than the bare rim. It's hard for bare metal to dig into the concrete. If you dont believe me on the matter that tires dont make a difference, ask race car drivers why they have to use racing slicks. Q: Ok, so tires are upgraded, now what? A: Hopefully, the tires you chose helps you narrow down what kind of brakes you should look into. I have broken down the three common tires you will find and 3 kinds of brake upgrades you can get along with the car. Tire A, Daily driving: This is the kind of tire that would be on your car most of the year and winter driving is possible since it could very well be an all-season tire. Tire B, Spirited driving, Autocrossing for Street Touring: This is the kind of tire that is more dedicated for street use in the summer or possibly an autocross street touring race setup. The tire is fairly soft and the potential for harder braking is possible (also less chance for the ABS to come on). Tire C, Race and Race-practice driving: This is where your tire is barely DOT-approved and street legal, the tires barely last more than 5,000 to 10,000 miles conservatively for street driving or only 100 miles for race use. These types of tires are sticky. Brake Upgrade A, conservative driving: This is the setup you are looking for that you expect to keep on your car for a while unless the brake pads run low. The key things to upgrade are better brake fluid, better brake pads. The driving habit is mild and delicate braking, long drags, and low speed stops (think slow daily driving). Look for a brake pad that has a high coeffiecent of friction (for that quick bite) and low operating temperature (so that winter or cold brakes will still work). Brake Upgrade B, spirited driving: This setup is something that might need some higher performance pads, better rotors to help prevent brake failure or poor performance. Things to look for are stainless steel brake lines, better brake fluid, slotted/cross-drilled rotors, larger or higher operating temperature brake pads. Brake Upgrade C, hard driving: This setup is to help you get the most out of your brakes without worrying about overheating/overworking your brakes. This setup is usually for racing use only since the brakes (and tires) need to warm up first before they work properly. Things to look for are racing brake fluid, bigger rotors with slots or crossing/drilling, racing brake pads, stainless steel lines, bigger calipers that can handle larger brake pads. All these parts help you keep the brakes work in the higher braking temperature ranges. Overheated brakes are just as bad as having no brakes at all. Q: Are slotted and cross-drilled rotors needed? A: Slots are useful to a point when you are looking for a way to prevent glazing of the brake pads. Glazing of the pads happen when you overheat the brake pads (either too hard on the brakes and not big enough of a rotor to dissapate the heat fast enough thus makes the pad material harden and it starts to lose its frictional properties. Cross Drilled really has no real use now as brake technology has advanced.. it does have an appealing look to them, but as for today, you dont need them as they serve next to nil on purpose. Specifically on the Legacy (GT or 2.5i) the brakes are fairly well using just the stock rotors. The weight of the rotors (mass) is pretty heavy.. more mass also helps in heat capacity, so the more mass you have for the rotors, the more repeative braking that you can do. Big Brake Kits do benefit from this very reason, but a few other brake tests has shown that the thickness of the plates and the overall thickness of the rotor proved to be more of a useful design than just the overall diameter of the rotor [Motor Trend did the study about 2 to 3 years ago I believe]. Blank rotors are fine and does the job, especially for a daily driver that doesnt need that heat capacity. Q: So what kind of brake pads out there? A: There are a lot of brake pads out there, things to take consider are the three main attributes that usually 2 attributes are offered in a braking pad: -Dusting/Noise (how much they make your bling rims dirty) -Temperature (the range of temperature of which the pad works) -Friction (how well the pad has the initial bite and feel to the rotor) It's very hard to find a brake pad that can be awesome in all 3 attributes. Street pads will have great low noise/dusting, good friction bite, and typical low temperature range. Performance pads will have good friction, good temperature range, and typical medium dusting. Race Pads have great temperature range, good friction, and lousy dusting (very dirty). Q: What temperature is right for me? A: If you are looking for daily driving and expect to drive through a winter season, look for a brake pad that can operate in low or freezing temperatures. If you are looking for autocross and very light track days, look for above freezing to 800 F temperature ranges. Very rare that a daily driven or street driven car hit temperatures of 1000 F unless you are that crazy to hold the brakes down at near full force while driving at 40 mph for 15 mins. Racing brake pads start near the 150F to 1500F+ range (so somehow the driver needs to warm up the brakes before actually using them). Q: How do I pick a good brake fluid? A: The thing is to look for the HIGHEST WET BOILING POINT (as brake fluids do soak up moisture in the air and causing the fluid to fail and feel mushy). Change your brake fluid at least once a year or every 15,000 miles for the best pedal feel. ATE Super Blue fluid is probably the best "bang for the buck" at $15/bottle for a full flush. Always use a fresh bottle, dont use a bottle that has been open for more than a month as it has probably soaked up dirt and other moisture in the air that would make the fluid ineffective. Q: What about stainless steel lines? A: Usually designed for better pedal feel for less pedal brake travel and less flex in the lines. It's an upgrade that is really up to the owner as stock lines offer enough PSI of fluid for the caliper to clamp with enough force. Unless you are upgrading your master cylinder and larger calipers, upgraded stainless steel brake lines with higher PSI rating is not neccessary Q: What about big brake kits? A: Big brake kits are used to make use of the tires' grip potential and dissapate heat faster. It's not neccessary for a street car to run with larger brakes unless you run the Autobahn or something and have the tires run them. Also, check the brake pads that the brake kits come with. There's no sense in getting bigger brakes (more weight) if the brake pads are lousy "performance" pads that can overheat and glaze. If there are any other questions, I'll will answer them on a case-by-case basis from here on out.