BBPeik

Um yep. That about sums it up. Then they disappeared into the night.

My Raceseng Ashiko showed up today. I must say it is quite heavy. Should work awesome and I think it looks pretty good too.

Touche

But its a Buick

Diff and axles showed up today. Props to Dave at Rallispec. The axles look almost new. They have been gone through for sure. Same thing with the Diff. It looks awesome. If you need anything driveline related I would call him first for sure.

Looks like my new diff and spec b axles shipped today. Should have them Friday. All that is left is install the rear diff and axles, have the driveshaft shortened, and hook up the dccd controller. I was going to do that last weekend, but as some of you know my weekend was a little screwed up. Hopefully this weekend is better.

You are killing me with this. I want to see it done.

Well I just found that answer reading the faq on their website. I guess I should have done that first. Live and learn I guess. Does your controller have a handbrake input allowing the diff to open when the handbrake is pulled? All models of our controller’s feature an optional handbrake cutout wire, but for the most part it isn’t necessary. It is simply a crutch for the lesser semi-auto controllers in order to do low speed driving in parking lots and for handbrake turns. Both of which are not a problem in auto mode with my controllers. If you do not wish to use it please tape it up and isolate it from accidental grounding. Grounding the handbrake wire will simply stop output from the controller temporarily until the wire is not grounded anymore.

Interesting. I know it is designed to shut of the controller, but had not thought about why. I may contact them and ask them just that question. Getting a fresh point of view always helps.

So I need a little help from those that are good at wiring. So I will be installing teh DCCD controller this weekend and there is one wire I am confused on. It is designed for cars with a manual ebrake. One of teh wires is supposed to be hooked up to the wire that grounds when the ebrake is engaged. This is real simple on a manual brake but ours is a bit more confusing. I looked at the diagram and on the ebrake switch I think it is wire 1. Would some of you guys mind referencing the fsm and confirm this for me. Also here are the installation links for the controller as well. Thanks a lot https://dccdpro.com/main/wp-content/downloads/DCCDPro%20UNI.pdf https://dccdpro.com/main/wp-content/downloads/Spiider%20Wiring%20Diagram.html

Well I just scored myself. two spec b rear axles and an r180 torsen rear diff. Should have it in about a week. Problem solved.

That is the direction I am going to have to go. My only dilemma is do I do a gear swap on my diff or get a used diff that is already 3.90 which is a hard find. Will any r160 3.90 bolt into my diff? Or can I get a JDM r160 suretrac and change the gears in that? Any idea where to get gears other than Subaru?

I looked at doing an LSD in my r160, but they are not exactly cheap. I also tried to get a hold of super dave for some of his custom races to make hybrids, but his email does not work anymore. I have a buddy of mine that is a machinist looking into making some of the races for me. I think my options boil down to your suggestion with the limited slip or perhaps my buddy could make the custom races. Any suggestions on an lsd that is decent but does not break the bank either?

So now it is advice time. I am doing the rear diff soon. I was planning on going with spec b axles, but apparently they are impossible to source. Any other ideas on making a hybrid axle. I have read a bunch of threads, but thought you guys might have some fresh ideas.

Uh oops. No beers, just kids screaming in my ear. The love box. Now that is some funny sh*t

Just got finished pulling most of the dash out of my car. I need to access the ecu for the dccd controller install. Of course it is buried way behind the glove box.

Big day today. My wife took the kids out for the day so I could have a whole day to work on my car. First I pulled the shift assy out to weld everything together. Wouldn't you know, after I welded it and reinstalled it it had magically moved. So I pulled it out, cut the welds etc.. I ended up doing this about 5 times. It was frustrating as hell. Literally a 1/16th" makes a huge difference in where it sits. So finally I gave up. It is not perfect, but I can get in all the gears with the console installed. I may mess with it later, but for now I am freakin done with it. Next I moved on to the front end stuff. I managed to get both new control arms, sway bar end links, and the axles installed. Nothing too hard there, but it was a bit of a pain getting the axles aligned correctly. So the front of the car is now officially done, at least in theory. I posted a pic of my old control arm bushings for reference for anyone wondering what happens to our bushings. I also hooked up the battery today to check the starter. It worked perfectly with the STI setup. Thanks fahr_side for telling me to try it before buying an STI starter.

Well I spent a couple hours on the shift mech tonight. I added about 3/4 of an inch in length to the main arm. I am going to have a machine shop make the adjustable arm I created in that exact length and configuration as well. It is all dialed in now though. Centered perfect.

Sort of, but not quite. The shift mech sits at a different angle in our cars. SO not only do I need to add a remove some metal I need to change the pivot angles as well. The biggest problem is that given the pivot ball is like 5" below the console the amount I have to move things is really small. From the measurements I took last night I need it to move rear 1/4" and twist just a bit as well.

SO I just spent a while messing with the shifter. Before it was not centered and over to the left way too much. So I tweaked all the linkage and have it centered now. You may recall that it was too far forward as well and I mad it adjustable to fix that issue. So if I put the shift adjustment where it needs to be so that it is far enough back, the ball for the shifter is at too steep an angle to reach the rear gears. So it looks like I will need to modify the ball angle this weekend to get it all centered correctly. I do love modding cars, but funky things like this tend to drive me batty.

I was running an Act before and it was the same way. Hopefully this one will feel the same. Shorter but hopefully similar. Thanks for the heads up.

Nice. That is what I was suspecting, but it is real nice to hear actual real world experience. Thanks a bunch

With the help of my oldest daughter I just finished bleeding the clutch. All seems to function well. Definitely has a different feel than our clutch. Seems quite a bit shorter, not too much more stiff though. I checked to ensure that the slave is fully extending and it is, so the clutch push must just be shorter than I had before. I will bleed it again in a few days in case some air works its way around in there. Overall though another successful STI part that will work for us, so with that I am pleased.

So I took another stab at it today. Proof positive that sometimes you need to just walk away. Literally in five minutes I had it all lined up perfect and the trans and engine just fell right into place. So both are connected, I am hoping permanently. I also installed the new slave cylinder. Our stock hose for the slave will, with a little bending, fit right on the STI slave. There is a picture of it hooked up below. I still need to bleed it though. Starter and the new mounts are all installed. The trans mount assembly is all on as well. I am still not sure if the shift assembly will work or not. I may need to go to a machine shop and have them do a little modding to the cobb unit so that it will all work with our console. I must say though that the shifts are really tight and short( insert sex joke here)and I am real excited to see how it feels actually driving it. That is all for this weekend as I wisely decided to call it a day before I screwed something up. Stay tuned for more.

So I had hoped to get the transmission all the way in today, but due to my children driving me freaking batty I was unable to accomplish this. Currently the transmission is mated up to the engine but I still have about another .5" to go before all is settled. I currently have the motor and engine both on floor jacks waiting until tomorrow. I eventually just got too tired to deal with it. I got the new clutch installed, axle and tailshaft seals installed, new trans mount installed, and the transmission almost in, so not a bad day. There is a pic below of our clutch disc(an act one) and the STI disc(also act). The STI disc is a bit bigger, but overall is built much more strong. You can see that the springs on the STI unit are much more robust than the others are.