BBPeik

If you go to the same tuner for a shop or e tune they can build on their previous map. I am pretty sure the maps are proprietary, so if your e tuned through one company and then shop tuned through another they would have to start fresh. I have been happy with both e tunes that I have done. That being said though, I think I would feel a bit more comfortable with an in shop tune in the future. No real reason, just seems a much more thorough way to do it to me. I am thinking I will have mine dyno tuned after the trans is all set so I can get per gear tuning etc..

We just used the firearm stuff. The coating is crazy thin. If it does keep heat in it will not be much. If I was at the track every day I would think twice, but for a street application I am not that concerned. My CP was pretty beat up and needed some new looks.

My cousin runs a small cerakote business. He mainly does firearms, but we decided to give my engine cover and charge pipe a go. The stuff is crazy durable and is pretty awesome. We just finished a little while ago. I am pretty pleased with the results and can't wait to get it installed.

Discovered another minor problem this afternoon. I went to open up the drains in the trans to make sure it is all empty, even though I was pretty sure it was. There are two drains on the STI transmission. The rear pan drain is a piece of cake, but there is also a drain on the front diff. That drain is blocked by our cross member. This is not a big issue, but will make doing fluid changes a bit trickier. The front drain just makes sure that all the fluid in the front diff gets out of there since it sits at the same level as the other drain. I used a vacuum pump to suck out the fluid in the front diff. Not ideal, but it will work.

So last night I was giving everything a once over since I will be putting it all back together soon. Glad I did because upon closer inspection I discovered that the passenger mount I made was extremely close to the steering rack hoses. Under load it would have hit for sure. I modified the mount a bit and bent the pipes ever so gently and now there is about 15mm of clearance between the two. Hopefully that will be enough.

Great work.

Ok so I took a stab at the rear diff today. There are a couple problems. After I removed my factory half shafts I noticed that we have a problem or two. First our axles are much longer than the Spec B axles. Second our outer has the 27 spline setup. I am pretty sure it is the same size as the STI outer. So I spent quite a while thinking and checking things. Turns out with the r180 you basically need a longer STI axle. Apparently Subaru made the rear end on our cars quite a bit wider than their previous models. Our axles are about an inch and a bit longer than the Spec B ones. So what to do? Well again after some thought, I decided to put our outer on the Spec B shaft and inner set up. I removed our outer and the Spec B outer and swapped them. This allowed for the correct outer spline count, but also increased the axle length a bit because our outer is longer than the Spec B outer. I did this to both sides and then installed the diff and axles for a test fit. Everything went in great. The axles are still too short though and are stretched much more than I would like. At this point I think it is about 60/40 whether they will hold under a launch or not. Stretched as they are they may pop. We will just have to see. Here are a few pics of the different parts to give you an idea of what we are dealing with. The important thing is it all fits. Oh yeah, I also installed the whiteline diff inserts as well.

I did not even bother checking. I just went to my driveshaft shop and he said it should be super easy and will only be 80$. I new that other swaps could use other factory driveshafts, but I just never really bothered looking into it. I have had to build custom driveshafts in the past, so that is where my mind went. Once I have mine finished it would be interesting to do a measurement comparison so that we would have that info available to others.

No. I still have to install the diff and axles. Then measure the driveshaft and have it shortened. Sorry for the delay, but time has been real short lately. I have some stuff going on with my charge pipe too, that may be a couple weeks. Hope to have an update soon.

You would need to use an AP to monitor knock. They are really nice to have, albeit expensive, you can monitor a lot of critical stuff. Especially when tuned past stage 1 and things are a bit more critical.

Is it just me or does 114 pages talking about this stupid downpipe pretty much sum up the problem. Pretty sure if it worked great, this thread would be a ton shorter.

Sorry to see this. Al I can say is I feel your pain many times over. Hope all goes well with your repairs.

FWIW I had real good luck with both Bren and Cryo.

One other bonus that I forgot to mention. I was expecting to have to change the flange on the diif that the driveshaft mounts too. From the wrx swap threads that I had read the flange was smaller on the r160. Turns out the flange on my stock diff is the same size as the one on the new r180. One less thing to change.

I pulled the rear diff today. Here is a side by side pic of the two. R180 is for sure beefier than the R160.

If you are going to be doing gravel etc. going up to your new cabin sight and stuff I would go stock. Better ground clearance is not a terrible thing. I could go lower on my car too, but I like having real world driveability. As it is I scrape my skid plate a lot.

My wife loves the Panamera. I just said "Sorry honey, it only has four seats. We have three kids, it just won't work.". As if I could afford one anyway.

That is a tough choice. I kinda like both. I agree with the side skirts though. They need to match of you go with the sport bumper.

Ok fellas. One step closer. The DCCDpro controller is fully installed. I have not tested it out yet, so hopefully all the wiring is right, but I am pretty sure it should all be good. Center console is all back together and shift knob installed. The wiring was a bit tedious, especially wiring in the STI factory switch to the controller, but not too bad. I also bolted on and sealed the STI rubber shift mech seal to the body of my car. Holes lines up so I could bolt it in and then I used some sealer to ensure it was good. Next up is the diff and axles.

Great work. Thanks for looking into this for everyone.

There you go

Awesome. Way to pull one out of no where.

Now that I have my raceseng knob I have two knobs. Double your pleasure.

No he only likes to know about parts that actually work:hide:

With a blown big block this could be awesome