ammcinnis

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Good call! I missed that.

No personal experience, but be aware that even if it "fits," a 25 mm offset will drastically increase wheel bearing loads vs. the stock 55 mm offset. I would not do it.

The excellent OEM pads are Akebono ceramic.

If you haven't already, check the camshaft timing. Your engine has a timing belt, and if it gets worn/loose the engine can jump timing, causing the symptoms you describe. If cam timing jumps too far the pistons can contact the intake and/or exhaust valves, resulting in major engine damage. Better to check this sooner rather than later.

I wonder if there's a bulk-quantity discount?

Check that your battery is fully charged.

Moved thread to Gen 6 forum.

This is a persistent myth ... persistent but untrue. An in-tank pump is cooled (and lubricated) by the fuel flowing through it, not by the fuel surrounding it. It has been this way since at least the 1980s. See attachment.

The OE fuel filter for all Gen 6 Legacys (and Gen 5 Outbacks) is mounted in the tank, as part of the fuel pump assembly. There is no external, in-line fuel filter. Fuel pump failure in these cars seems to be extremely rare. Maintenance is at your discretion, but IMO the filter should not require routine replacement as long as you're buying good-quality, name-brand fuel from moderate to high volume stations. Seller participation in the "Top Tier" program is probably a plus.

I've driven our Legacy 2.5 on I-70 from Green River (UT) across Colorado (both directions) several times without any problems, but I wasn't towing anything, either. If you're really concerned, though, I-40 from California to Texas considerably less challenging. Both are great scenic and cultural drives.

That 30k CVT "service" is an external inspection for leaks only, per Subaru. You can do that yourself.

For $35 you can download a legal copy of the Factory Service Manual (and a whole lot more) direct from the Subaru Technical Information System web site. The FSM includes full wiring diagrams, wire colors, and connector pinouts.

I don't really follow class-action lawsuits. Here in the U.S., at any given time you will typically find dozens class-action suits in progress against just about any automobile manufacturer you choose. Many such lawsuits seem to me to border on frivolous, and usually the only significant "winners" are the plaintiffs' lawyers. Personally, I own both a 2015 Legacy and a 2016 Outback, and I haven't received any formal notification of a class-action lawsuit (or lawsuits) concerning the battery in either vehicle.

^^^ Bent frame, coming up!

Just remember that MY 2018-2019 is slightly different than MY 2015-2017 ... enough to make them incompatible.

That information has been published, at least twice, in Subaru's Tech Tips dealer newsletter ... first in 2010 and again in 2014. See my earlier post in this thread. While the Gen 5 Outback does use open differentials (F/R), the use of a Multi-Plate Transfer Clutch instead of a center differential becomes problematic with mismatched tires.

The child locks are integral to the rear door latch mechanisms. I've never heard of this problem before, and I can't imagine how both of yours would have just randomly jammed in the same way at the same time. Your best bet is probably to consult a Subaru dealer or a Subaru-specialist body shop. It's also worth considering how both of your child locks "got set;" that may provide a clue to the resolution. Finally, it bears repeating that it's never a good idea to force a mechanism that's designed for fingertip actuation.

Excellent analysis. Subaru's published recommendation is no more than 1/4 inch difference in tire circumference, which calculates to 1.3/32 inch (1 mm) max difference in tread depth. A 6,000 mile rotation schedule should be OK, although slightly accelerated wear on the Multi-Plate Transfer Clutch may result, accompanied by slightly higher CVT fluid heating during highway cruising. (Attachment from Subaru Tech Tips newsletter, December 2010.)

Sounds like the VDC (Vehicle Dynamics Control) system doing its thing under conditions of marginal traction (e.g. snow, ice, mud, loose sand, etc.). I wouldn't worry, unless it continues to occur on clear, dry road surfaces. You might also check your tires for adequate tread depth and proper inflation. Based on years of experience in our 2015 Legacy and 2016 Outback, both with EyeSight, I disagree: ... that this seems like an EyeSight "hiccup" ... that such "hiccups" are common with EyeSight ... that it's a good idea to disable EyeSight If you are already a good driver, you'll seldom be aware that EyeSight's even there. EyeSight is like having a second pair of eyes that never get tired, careless, or distracted.

The scissor jacks at each corner are a nice, subtle touch ... virtually guaranteed to collapse in anything more than moderate waves.

Speedometer/odometer input comes from the VDC module, which derives vehicle speed (VSS) from one or more of the four wheel speed sensors. Failure or malfunction (e.g. intermittent signal, signal mismatch between wheels) of a wheel speed sensor will throw a hard DTC error code.

It used to be that entering the discount code STARLINK9 (all caps) online would get you 50% off, and you could use it for multiple-year renewals, but apparently that no longer works. It might be worth a try every now and then, though. In my case, I'm willing to pay $50 a year for the base service package, but not $100.

That's normal. The Subaru spec is 1.6 seconds max. To avoid jerking or clunking, simply 1) foot on brake pedal, 2) move the shift lever, 3) pause briefly, until you feel the forward or reverse clutch fully engage, and 4) drive off. Don't attempt to shift while the car is moving.