ammcinnis

Not a good idea, unless you're prepared to perform a full recalibration of the electric power steering. The position of the steering wheel must match the steering angle sensor in the steering column.

The TC lockup solenoid is located in the valve body. I've attached the relevant pages from the Factory Service Manual. At this point, I would be looking closely for a short to ground somewhere in the wiring harness between the TCM and VB : pinched wire, chafed wire, etc. Assuming the harnesss checks out OK, worst case is that the TC lockup solenoid driver in the TCM has failed, which would require TCM replacement. Do yourself a favor and download a complete (and legal) copy of the Factory Service Manual, the Subaru CVT training manual, and a whole lot more, direct from the Subaru Technical Information System web site. Cost is $35 for 72 hours of full access ... a bargain! DTC_P2764.pdf

Right. If you have EyeSight, verify that Lane Keeping Assist is turned off. I would look at tire wear patterns next. Do you perhaps have mixed tires (different sizes or types), or do you have asymmetric or directional tires mounted incorrectly? Have you checked tire pressures with a known-accurate gauge?

You seem to be describing two different problems. Which is it? Steering wheel not centered when driving straight? Car steers to the right when steering wheel is released? Either way, there's a TSB for that. TSB_04-19-17_Steering_Pull_171227.pdf

That would be the primary suspect, IMO. The differential fluids aren't critical, and can be sourced from among many brands, as long as they meet Subaru's technical specifications, but the CVT fluid is another matter. Subaru is the only source for CVT fluid guaranteed to be correct for your Legacy. Subaru uses several different fluids, unique to each CVT model (TR580 or TR690) and production variant ... i.e. different model years may require different fluids, even within the same CVT model. Especially risky are the "One Fluid for All CVTs" products, even from the boutique brands. My recommendation is to perform at least one CVT fluid drain-and-fill using the correct Subaru-branded CVT fluid. (I believe that the dark green Subaru CVTF-II is correct for your MY 2015 TR580.) This may help your problem, although there is a remote possibility that your CVT may never fully recover. Edit: FWIW, check that your engine oil isn't overfilled. According to Subaru, even a seemingly-minor overfill can cause symptoms of bucking and surging. The dipstick is a cheap and easy way to eliminate that possibility.

I have many night hours in my pilot's logbook. If your MIL ever saw a light airplane cockpit at night she would probably by appalled at the low level of illumination ... often one dim red overhead floodlight for the entire instrument panel.

I agree. I've always been surprised by this unexpected "luxury car" feature.

Yes. If Subaru went to the trouble and expense of shielding that wire, you can be sure that it was important. The unshielded length of wire could act as an antenna for under-the-hood electrical noise. Did you even include a second wire to replace the shield? Besides providing electrical shielding, the shield may also serve as a ground wire. Also, how did you make your splices? Crimped? Soldered? Other? You need secure, electrically transparent connections.

Such corrosion isn't caused by the "charging system." It usually indicates long-term acid leakage from the battery, either from the cell vents, the case seal, or the terminal post seals.

There are a number of MY 2018-2019 owners over on the Outback forum that have reported successful OTA downloads. If your infotainment head unit is still running the factory-original firmware, you may have to manually update it (once) first.

Highly recommended.

I keyed in on the cold temperature and your report the car started after "slamming" the driver's door shut. The vibration could be enough to free sticky relay contacts. Relay failures are rare, but for most of us so are starts at temperatures below -20 F.

Have you ever had the ignition relays replaced per TSB 07-89-15R ... no-start under very cold conditions? I think this is one of the few TSBs that Subaru would authorize (under warranty) at customer request, even if you hadn't yet encountered the problem. The TSB was later reissued as a recall, WTG-67R, affecting a limited range of MY 2015 (and 2016?) Legacys and Outbacks. As a recall, WTG-67 should still be valid for affected vehicles, even those out of warranty. See attachments. TSB_07-89-15R_Ignition_Relays.pdf Recall_WTG-67_Ignition_Relays_160830.pdf

If the gnawing is localized, you should be able to scavenge a usable replacement connector (with pigtail wires attached) from a salvage vehicle. The wires are color coded, so you should be able to splice the replacement connector into the existing wiring harness. Yes, soldering and insulating the splices is mandatory. If you don't want to do it yourself, any good tech should be able to do it for you for a nominal charge. I'm not sure why the dealer didn't suggest it. If you don't already have one, a Factory Service Manual is invaluable in situations like this. Good luck.

^^^ Re: Modern Design Modern mid-sized sedans have converged on similar, optimized shapes as well, dictated primarily by aerodynamic drag and fuel economy constraints. "I represent the wind." ~ Theodore von Karman

According to the FSM, all six ignition coils share a common ground connection to the engine block. Be sure that ground point is clean, corrosion free, and tight.

88 ft-lbs.

The Gen 6 Legacy lug nuts are 19 mm (0.746 inch). I personally wouldn't use an impact driver on my Legacy's wheels ... except perhaps as a last resort when trying to break loose a seized lug nut.

OK, guys ... Time to dial down the rhetoric and return to the topic at hand.

Don't expect Mirror Link ever to work in your Forester. It was already an obsolete standard in 2016, and support from smart phone vendors is essentially nonexistent.

This is a fairly common complaint. Others have reported good success simply cleaning the window channels. That would be a good (and inexpensive) place to start.

This is one case where indeed "they are all like that." Subaru enlarged the display size slightly for 2016 and later model years, and others have reported that you can easily retrofit a 2016 HVAC control/display panel into a MY 2015 Legacy or Outback for slightly improved readability.

Impressive ... but if your Legacy is typical, expect that onboard mpg estimate to be about 5-7% optimistic. There is a calibration constant (that only a dealer can access) that will allow you to fine tune the mpg estimate (up to +/- 10%); it's documented in the FSM. MET(diag)-19_User_Customizing.pdf

NEVER run the engine with the battery disconnected. Doing so may cause alternator failure or damage other sensitive electronics in the vehicle. An important function of the battery is to act as a surge protector, dampening voltage spikes in the vehicle's primary (i.e. 12 volt) electrical system. You can either just disconnect the old battery, which will require re-initializing the windows after installing the new battery, or you can use an external 12 volt, ~10 amp, regulated power supply (NOT a battery charger) to lifeboat the car's electrical system while you remove the old battery and install the new. That's a good place to start. I don't think you'll find any need for an extended "idle relearn" procedure on Gen 5 Outbacks.

Do you have a copy of the Installation Guide? If not, that's the place to start. Others have reported that the harness and connector you're looking for is neatly attached to the switch blank next to where you install the new fog light switch.