StkmltS

Sounds like something isn't plugged in all the way.

I'm pretty sure it'll never be at 0%, even at idle, because the ECU will always be giving the motor air and fuel. Even when you pedal-to-the-metal it doesn't show 100 %? Before you spend money on a new sensor I'd try to find somebody with a compatable car who's willing to swap sensors eith you for 2 minutes. While we're on the topic of logging... have you heard of BtSsm? Sent from inner space.

Have you done the work you mentioned yourself or did a shop do it? There's no right or wrong answer here, it's just sometimes helpful to know if what you're saying was done is coming from the person who did the work or not. Know what I mean? Either way it sounds like you know what you're talking about. When your turbo blew the first time was the oil pan inspected/cleaned? If not, (worst case scenario) there could have been some metal fragments from your blown turbo in the pan that made their way through your motor after you replaced the turbo. What did your turbo look like when it bit the dust? When the motor is running are the odd noises constant? It could just be the sounds from your misfires, or it could be your turbo wobbling around inside the housing. A short video or sound clip may be helpful. I've never heard the terrifying "chain in a lawnmower" turbo noise people talk about, but I'm pretty familiar with the noises caused by a misfire. If you have the equipment to do a leakdown/compression test I think that should be your next move.

Begin damage control mode in 5... 4... 3... I'm moving forward with this car expecting that one day I'll be driving down the road and the motor will go snap-crackle-pop. I'll have it towed home and I'll whip out my build list spreadsheet and send out the invitations to my #ynansb build party. Maybe it'll be this winter, maybe it'll be three years from now. Either way I'm emotionally ready for my car to tell me "it's not you it's me". Until then I'm just going to drive it easy and keep it clean. I'd like to maximize the time between now and boomsday, so I'm going to play around with the tuning and try to squeeze as much life (not horsepower) out if the engine as possible. Simple things, nothing crazy. My goal is to extend the life of my presumed-damaged motor. I know this isn't the right way to fix a car, but with my current budget it's my only realistic option other than selling the car (gasp!) So... The car is miserable after an ECU reset, so dealing with the LVs is my first priority. From what I've read I think I need to change my MAF scaling. Is that the most correct way to deal with my learned values? (other than fixing the root cause). The attached pic is just to show that I'm capable of doing what I'm talking about. The x-axis is MAF sensor Volts, Correction % is LTFT+STFT, Mean (and Mode) is the average (and mode) % change for all values that fall within their respective cells in my ROM's MAF scaling table. [The method I used is listed as a resource in post #1]

It's hard to tell just by pics but those look pretty good. If I ever get a second set of rims for winter tires I'd be tempted to just by another set of stockies. I don't know why but I really like the look of our stock rims.

Sounds like a good choice. Don't forget to post pics when they're finished.

Thanks for the word of encouragement. I'm fortunate for being able to enjoy working on my cars just for the sake of learning and saving $. The leftover bolt from my exploratory adventure under the intake manifold was one of the two bolts for the driver's side IC bracket > manifold. I dropped it when I was putting everything back together and I wrote it off as a loss after a few minutes of fruitless searching. Either the vacuum hose on my BPV popped off or I forgot to put it back on. I don't have a zip tie on it because of how frequently I've been removing the IC. After putting the hose back on my LVs are back to where they should(n't) be and the motor idles like a semi-normal car again. A couple days ago I disabled the cyl#2 misfire code (cruise control works!) and I bumped up my minimum idle speed to 825. Looking back from ahead (huh?) buying that turbo inlet is probably the last chunk of change that I'll be able to spend on my car this year. My wife's minivan just started leaking coolant so I may have to change a head gasket soon.

Back here from my internet seat that doesn't look too bad. What color are you painting them? Eventually I want to refinish mine just to clean up all of the curb rash from previous owner(s).

It should show up at idle because it's DEFINITELY a problem at idle. My OTG adapter fell into the abyss behind the steering column I'll probably open up the dash and dig it out this weekend. I've been tossing around the idea of routing my OBDII extension cable to the other side of the center console so I'll probably do that too.

Fixed it.

I haven't seen the ER IU error since two days ago. It must have been a low battery. I think I created a new vacuum leak when i replaced my turbo inlet. Check out these LVs from the last 50ish miles of driving. The car idles worse than ever and it stalls at every stop and even when 45mph + clutch in. Also, yesterday my wife found a 12mm (head) bolt on the garage floor. It's definitely a Subaru bolt. Other than for the TMIC and alternator I don't remember taking out very many 12mm bolts when I removed the intake manifold. Maybe it's from under the small coolant reservoir in front of the turbo...

I think I'd rather replace the motor than deal with that nightmare. On a bad note, it did it again this morning when the motor stalled at a stop sign on my street. Resetting the ECU multiple times didn't help, but physically disconnecting the battery fixed it on the first try. Hopefully it's just a low-ish battery problem and my drive to work was enough to fully charge it.

I call first dibs when LGT parts start coming off to pay for the inevitable 4runner upgrades

The odometer displayed "ER IU" (integrated body until) so I unplugged the battery for a few minutes and all is well now. Unfortunately the engine is still audibly misfiring. I won't know if it improved any or not until I take it down off the stands and drive it around for awhile. Sent from inner space.

Tonight I removed the intake manifold and installed my new inlet. Everything is back together but when I try to start the car it makes a machine gun sound and the motor doesn't turn over. I went over everything three times but somehow I must have missed a connector somewhere that I unplugged to take off the stupid idiot intake manifold. It's too late to rip apart again tonight so I'll just have to hope for more car time this weekend. Bummer. Sent from inner space.

Agreed. My harbor freight tester isn't as accurate as an Insert Brand Name tester, but even so I shouldn't be seeing leakage numbers anywhere close to 20%. If the new inlet doesn't fix the misfire the heads will get rebuilt as part of my #YNANSB project. Even if the new inlet does fix the problem I'll still probably rebuild the heads in a few years. The car is 10 years old, but the interior and exterior are still in superb shape and IMO it's worth putting money into the motor to keep the car on the road.

This past weekend at a local Subaru meet I talked to the owner of a highly modified OBX about my misfire. After explaining my symptoms and talking about everything I've already tried, he was certain that my turbo inlet is the problem. He said my #2 cylinder only looks like the problem because it just happens to be the cylinder most affected by the un-metered air entering the inlet somewhere it shouldn't. He's a Subaru ambassador so he's gotta know what he's talking about, right? A problematic inlet seems like it would explain everything: The misfire goes away under boost Engine temp doesn't change the symptoms Good compression & leak down results No change after swapping plugs / coils / injectors / orings / gaskets The engine doesn't consume oil Acceptable UOA results (for the newbs: Used Oil Analysis) Positive LV's in all four ranges I haven't thoroughly inspected my inlet, but with just a quick glance it's obvious that the turbo end of the hose looks pretty ugly. It's visibly deteriorated enough that I wouldn't ever dare take it off and hope to reuse it. A new inlet was already on my #YNANSB shopping list, so... I ordered a new inlet and hopefully I'll find enough time to get it installed this weekend. I didn't buy an OEM inlet because why replace an OEM part with an OEM part? What do I look like? A silly fuddy-duddy person who thinks aftermarket parts are a waste of money? I went with a blue Mishimoto (MMHOSE-SUB-08IH).

Same here, I was hoping for off-the-chart coolant or aluminum content.

Oil analysis results here http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/used-oil-analysis-stock-05-gt-103k-miles-245634.html?p=5241594#post5241594

Measured valve clearances post-VJ: Cyl#2 intake: .007" (unchanged) Cyl#4 intake: .007" (unchanged) Cyl#2 exhaust: .014" (was .008") Cyl#4 exhaust: .013" (was .012") Broken valve cover bolt is out! What a pain in the butt. I need to clean up the threads a bit, other than that I'm surprised how cleanly it came out considering the funky angle I had to use to get to it. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/24/26ac78cd60ff2cec213da703a27e7f91.jpg Sent from inner space.

Buy a second MAF/IAT unit and mount it in the intercooler-to-throttle body hose. How many wires does the IAT sensor use? Disconnect those wires at the OEM location and extend/connect them to your new 2nd sensor. Bingo! MAF readings from the OEM location with post-intercooler temperatures. Would the extra 3' of wire change the resistance enough to mess up readings from the new IAT?

It runs the same as usual. The misfire is still present, but it otherwise drives fine as long as the LVs stay where they shouldn't be... should be... whatever. It's been sitting in my garage for about a week now with a halfway completed oil change while I've been waiting for my local dealership to call me back saying I can come pick up my new valve cover bolt. Once that shows up I'll recheck the valve clearances, fix the broken bolt, finish the oil change, and change the TB + goodies. Several weeks ago I replaced all of the 4mm & 6mm OEM vacuum hoses with new silicone ones. I've also replaced the broken grounding strap.

I bought an oil analysis from WIX (on Amazon) and mailed it off this past Monday. In the sadistic "a Subaru owns me" kind of way I'm hoping it comes back with abnormally high aluminum content. Next month I'll put a line in the budget to have TIC look at the car.

Turn in Concepts ("FU Cam Bolts" anyone?) is only about 30 minutes away... but I'm too afraid of what I think they'll say