StkmltS

I've been driving it all week and loving every minute. No joke about the parts list continuously growing. Every time I open my spreadsheet I find more things to add. I doesn't help that I keep thinking about how much fun it would be to add horsepower... the all-powerful #becauseRacecar bug is biting hard!

I cleaned off the paint on the TGV (good thing I did like 20 coats) where the grounding bracket attaches and tightened everything back down. Somehow the bolt holding the grounding bracket to the TGV was bottoming out. When I put everything back together last time (for TGV delete) I must have swapped that bolt with another one from somewhere else. A couple washers later and the bracket is as tight as new and the problem is solved. I can't wait to drive it again, but I didn't even take it out of my driveway yet. Tomorrow after church I'm gonna give her a good wash and a nice thorough interior cleaning. After she's all dressed up and pretty I'll probably roll down the windows and take a slow cruise through the mall parking lot. You know, 'cause I can now. In conclusion: It is 100% true that the ER-HC code can sometimes be caused by a bad ground connection.

It's alive!!!!!!!!!!! I disconnected the grounding bracket from the driver side TGV, hooked up a jumper cable to it, and connected the other end to a bolt near the alternator. It started right up without any hesitation. There is NOTHING more satisfying than a $0 fix! Amen, Hallelujah, and praise the Lord. This should also solve the weird off/on/off/on thing it was doing a few days before it died a month ago. Fhew, now that I've got that out of the way I can rest easy knowing my upcoming build doesn't need to include an ECU. Sent from inner space.

Looks like it's time to start your own misfire thread. It keeps things on-topic and focused on your particular car/symptoms. My misfire count never got that high, but otherwise my graphs pretty much look the same as that one. People on here tend to jump on the cracked piston bandwagon a little too quickly (because it happens ALOT), so just to fight the crowd I'm not going to say I think you have a cracked piston(s). Based on your numbers I'd focus on cylinder #4 to diagnose the problem. Whatever is going on in there is probably what's happening to the other cylinders. Buy a [ame=http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EQNCMTY?keywords=borescope&qid=1454093667&ref_=sr_1_3&s=instant-video&sr=8-3]$20 usb borescope on Amazon[/ame] and poke around inside the cylinder to see if there's anything obvious.

Feel free to stop by and get the car started for me

So I haven't been able to snake a siphon tube all the way down into the gas tank yet. I can get it most of the way, but the last bit puts up quite a fight. I suspect there's some kind of safety device blocking my endeavors. Dang you National Highway Traffic Safety Administration! I'm tired of looking at the beautiful piece of Subaru junk blocking my driveway. I want the gas leak fixed, now, and I want the car in my garage so I can start dealing with the ER HC error that's kept me from driving the car for almost a month. Right now it sounds like a good idea to just disconnect one of the fuel lines in the engine bay, turn the key to get the fuel pump going, and have the fuel pump do all of the work for me. Other than the obvious "ahh there's gas everywhere!!!" situation it sounds safe. Any objections? Stay tuned for my version of the "freak gasoline fight accident" scene from Zoolander.

A compression test and/or a leakdown test should give you more info on how to fix the root problem. If it checks out OK read the first post in my misfire thread (link below) for a ton of cheap and/or easy things to try. Nothing I tried could fix my problem because I ended up finding a cracked piston. Hopefully your story turns out better.

Maybe you mentioned it already, but where did you order the hose clamps from?

Pardon my ignorance if this has already been answered... If you connect a bluetooth audio receiver to the aux-input does the auto-detect function still work?

Welcome to the LGT club and thanks for chiming in! Hopefully your problem is something easier/cheaper than a spun bearing. Have you had your oil analyzed? If you have metal in your oil from a spun bearing an oil analysis would definitely let you know. I stumbled on Jafromobile's channel a few days ago and he's definitely got some good stuff on there. Even though he mostly works on DSM motors almost everything he does still applies to Subarus and motors in general. His channel is one of the more helpful ones that I've seen so far. I'll look up the other channels you mentioned. Send me a PM with your email address and I'll be happy to send you my spreadsheet. I'm not quite finished with it yet but I think I have all of the critical pieces covered. Most of what's left is just personal preference stuff, like race vs. standard bearings, or to get forged pistons or not. If you're close to the Cincinnati/Northern KY area I'll even "let" you come over and watch what's certainly going to be a story my family never lets me forget FWIW if I had a spun bearing I'd probably just get a new short block.

Thanks for the vote of confidence. I'm somewhat skeptical of the diy head decking and cylinder honing, but if it doesn't work I'd only be out the $75 for the ball hone and sandpaper.

Just get a set from Amazon / ebay / harbor freight. Orings are orings, if it fits it works.

I've read conflicting info on replacing the oil pump. I seem to remember Max Capacity saying somewhere that just a thorough cleaning would be sufficient. I'll research deeper. If I get a new pump I know to not go larger than the stock size. Here's how I'm looking at my options: 1) New SB from Subaru + refresh the heads @ TiC + goodies. There's only one reputable Subaru shop near me, Turn in Concepts. To rebuild my heads they quoted me $850, excluding valves and setting valve lash. No doubt they very much know what they're doing, but that's way too high to not include valves, buckets, or head studs. - Estimated total cost: $5060 (including $500 buffer). - Pros: Relatively simple project, high quality head work, TiC warranty (I think). - Cons: Expensive, no extra $ a JMP-vf40 or an etune. 2) New SB from TiC + refresh the heads + goodies. TiC quoted me "roughly" $4k for a new SB and the head work, including setting valve lash. Their quote assumes me removing and installing the motor. - Estimated total cost: $5403 (including $500 buffer). - Pros: Very easy, no worries. - Cons: Expensive, no fun, no extra $ a JMP-vf40 or an etune. 3) Rebuilt SB (diy) + refresh the heads (diy) + goodies + etune. SB: Deck the case halves if needed, hone cylinders, new pistons, rings, main bearings, rod bearings, ARP head studs, new gaskets. Heads: Deck heads, replace all valves, new buckets as needed, full upper gasket kit. Tools & gauges: everything required to properly do the above work. - Estimated total cost: $3850 (assuming full retail prices, including $500 buffer). - Pros: Affordable, fun learning experience, some cool new tools, a custom tune, room for a JMP-vf40. - Cons: Opportunity to go waaaaaaaaaay over budget and blow my motor because I'm stupid. 4) New SB from Subaru + refresh the heads (diy) + goodies. SB: new and assembled. Heads: same as option #3. - Estimated total cost: $4484 (including $500 buffer). - Pros: Safer than rebuilding the SB myself, possible enough $ for a JMP-vf40. - Cons: Not much less than option #1. Now before I get jumped in a dark alley for even thinking about options #3 & 4, hear me out. I'm a project engineer at an aerospace manufacturing company, and I've been in the industry for 14 years. I started out running the dirtiest, most undesirable machines, and I worked my way around the shop to where I'm at now. I know the importance of holding tolerances, and I know when and how to use all of the gauges for this project. I'd be purchasing a machinist's straightedge, micrometers, and a bore gauge. My calibration department at work would calibrate the gauges for me. The crosshatching is still visible in my cylinders, so a light hone should be sufficient. Replacing all valves would offset most (if any) of the wear that may be in the valve guides. Replacing the main and crank bearings will offset most (if any) of the wear on the crank and rods. I have access to a pressure washer, a large ultrasonic cleaner, and a bead-blast booth. If decking the heads proves to be too challenging I'll submit to conventional wisdom and take them to a machine shop.

It's official: my wife approve the rebuild. Her only stipulation is "if it doesn't work this time then you have to sell the car". In her eyes the past year+ (everything in this thread) counts as my first attempt to fix the problem, and rebuilding the motor will count as my second attempt. That's a silly argument, but she's a girl so I let it slide Her disclaimer just bumped up the project's budget by about $1k because now I can't skip over (postpone) anything that's nearing the end of its life. If it's almost broke, fix it. My only really difficult decision now is whether I should take the easy route and buy a new SB, or have the adventure of a lifetime rebuilding the one I have. I know what I want to do but I'm not sure if its the wisest choice. Baby #4 is due mid-May so that complicates things a bit.

Good golly miss Molly! I salute your dedication to finishing what you started. Sub'd to witness the upcoming celebration. I want to see the smile on your face when you fire it up!

My biggest complaint about the ER-HC error code is that it's so vague. It could be anything that has to do with the high speed CAN system. Mice chomping on a wire, a disconnected plug, a damaged ECM/BIU, basically anything that connects to the ECM. From what I've read, if the BIU is damaged it could definitely cause the ER-HC error. It would also explain why the car occasionally started to flicker off/on/off/on when driving... holy water leakage Batman, that could be it! My car is on the airbag recall list. So I'm thinking that I rip the dash apart to diagnose the BIU as the problem, replace/fix the unit, and then leave the dash in my garage and drive/tow the car to the dealership for the airbag recall work. Apparently replacing the BIU requires a trip to the dealership to reprogram the immobilizer, so if that needs done I'll try to horse-trade free reprogramming for me doing so much of the airbag recall work for them. I still haven't fixed my leaky gas tank. I guess the gas level leaked it's way lower than the seal, so it's temporarily not leaking fuel. It's way too cold and I'm subconsciously terrified that if I touch the car something else will break. Good news! I'm almost finished with my (re)build list. It's looking like rebuilding will be cheaper and better #becauseRaceCar. Even after buying all of the tools to do everything myself (correctly) it'll be cheaper than getting a new SB. As soon as my tax return check shows up I'm going to post a WTB thread and send out a few RFQs to some of the vendors on here. People who've helped me out in this thread will get first dibs on selling me any goodies from my list that may be collecting dust in a garage somewhere. On a side note: Apparently the warranty that comes with a new SB only applies if a certified shop installs it.

Part of the rubber seal around my windshield has separated from the windshield, about 8" of seal right at the passenger side of the dash. If I'm not mistaken that's right about where the body integrated unit (BIU) is deep behind the glove box. The day my car died it had been raining pretty hard, so that fits the problem somewhat. It almost sounds easier to remove the windshield to investigate vs trying to get to the BIU from inside the car. From an email with a COBB support person yesterday: "We actually don't perform ECU recovery services anymore unless the issue arose during the use of an Accessport. Our repair tech's simply don't have the time to be handling the influx of non Accessport related failures, etc." Hopefully my ECU isn't fried.

^ purdy

Yes please!

Ok, I'll bite. I'll help make your question(s) easier to understand. You won't get any answers here though, you'll need to post in the correct section. Don't take offense, I'm just trying to be helpful. I recommend creating a new thread in the Turbo Powertrains section. That would be the perfect place to discuss your unique problem, and a really great place to show us pictures of exactly what you're talking about.

I was behind a black '08-'09 LGT on 71/75 this morning crossing the dirty river into Cincy. KY plates, tinted windows, stock height, couldn't see if it had rims or not. I got a little excited until I remembered I was driving my '92 corolla DD.

I'm up here in Florence, about 15 minutes South of Cincinnati. There are a couple more LGT guys from over there on the wrong side of the river. Sent from inner space.

I adjusted mine on my drill press using small dremmel grinding wheels. It sounds similar to using a die grinder, but the important difference is that with a drill press and a mic you can be precise. When done correctly (carefully) it's just as effective as buying new buckets and it's exponentially cheaper. Heiche's thread (here) gave me the balls to try it. Adjusting your valves this way obviously only works to increase the bucket/camshaft clearance, and if you need less clearance you'd have to buy new buckets.

That stuff looks pretty cool. I've been using an acetone+ABS slurry, but I may try something like the 3d-eez product. My build area is open, but I get significantly better results whenever I enclose the printer in a giant cardboard box. I've read that using a heat lamp also helps. I built my printer from zilch, and since day 1 it's been bouncing around in my head that I "need" to increase the build area. The electronics wouldn't change at all, except maybe a larger heated bed. All you really need to do is beef-up the z-axis, get a wider frame, longer threaded rod, and longer drive belts. Now that I'm thinking about it, I could probably increase the build area in only the Y-axis direction for less than $20. Must fix LGT first...

I'm with you, they all seemed to be bashing the big 16g. One guy said something like "if you're buying new, get a small 16g. If you buy used, either is good."