StkmltS

The misfire is always present.

bump for feedback on my leakdown results

Post #1 updated with leakdown results.

I'm elbow-deep into doing my leakdown test and I just realized I need a 22mm socket to rotate the crank... Amen to having a Sears and Harbor Freight within a mile of my house! I'll post my leakdown results later tonight.

Welcome to the fourm! That's really strange that it started when you changed spark plugs and it didn't go away when you put the old plugs back in. Maybe your problem has something to do with how they're sealing, not the actual plugs themselves. Have you inspected (and cleaned) your two camshaft position sensors and your crank position sensor?

You should make a turbo replacement video for Youtube like the one you did for the clutch replacement. Watching your clutch video a few times beforehand is probably the biggest reason I was able to successfully change my clutch without having anyone there to help. I'm sure the world would be a better place if you made a similar one for replacing a turbo.

My DD is back on the road so the LGT is back inside the garage patiently waiting for my attention. I still haven't done the leak-down test... after that I'll take off the intake manifold and try to locate my vacuum leak. Just a nugget of interesting info... the past few times that my CEL turned on was exactly between shifts, somewhere in the ballpark of 4.5-6k rpm (nowhere near idle).

I guess I should have looked it up before asking... thanks for the info.

Good luck, hopefully you'll solve your problem quicker than I am. On our EJ255's are the bank1/bank2 camshaft position sensors interchangeable?

Installed a vacuum/boost gauge today.

Just the digital version via the torque app, so I know I'm not seeing everything that's going on in real-time. I know it's not as good as an AP, but I log everything via torque... should I dig through the data and look for something in the vacuum/boost data?

The last 5 minutes prior to turning it off was stop/go traffic with a couple red lights and stop signs. When I got home I turned it off a few seconds after completely stopping the car, the idle was smooth (but with a barely noticeable misfire). When I started it back up after dinner it was immediately idling rough. When I'm accelerating while the idle is acting up it does seem to stutter slightly at about 3k rpm. For future readers: His first tip, and possibly his second tip also, is why people sometimes say "you can't believe everything on the internet". My issues don't seem to be correlated with engine temp at all. I've experienced smooth and rough idles in cold weather with both cold and warm starts, and I've experienced smooth and rough idles in warm weather with both cold and warm starts. As best as I can tell the engine temp has little to zero affect on the symptoms. When it's in a bad mood and idling rough it is always also idling low, like between 400-700 rpm. It's almost like the ECU isn't reading the idle properly. Don't get too excited just yet, because even when its idling properly the misfire is still present.

Here's what kills me. Yesterday my commute to/from work was as smooth as butter, like everything in the world was as it should be. Then 45 minutes after I got home, my 5-min drive to scouts (I'm a leader) was horrible. What gives? Wouldn't a mechanical problem be constant? (eg. burnt valves, ringland failure) If I don't have to work next Saturday I'll try to finally get around to that leak down test.

I thought getting soap on my intercooler would cause problems? If what you're saying is right, then I've been doing it wrong the whole time by not allowing soap to get on my intercooler and maybe the lack of soap actually caused this whole mess! Does the soap provide some kind of extra lubricating that regular engine oil doesn't do?

After I got past your attitude and scary formatting it looks like you actually have some good points. 1. I haven't done another compression test yet. I didn't unplug the injectors, but I did pull the fuel pump fuse and run the engine dry before doing the test. 2. To be totally honest, I've been chasing injector #2 because it's easy to get to. I work two jobs (60+ hrs) so that my wife can stay home with our kids, so whenever I'm home my family usually takes priority. Most weekends my car sits in the garage and doesn't even get a second glance. I'm trying to exhaust all of my easy and cheap options before moving on to the time-consuming ones. 3. You're right, I probably should do a leak-down test. See #2 for why I haven't done one yet. I've been documenting my progress (or rabbit chasing) on here because I like/need input, and also because my trial-and-error education may be helpful to someone else someday. If you think I'm an idiot or you just aren't interested in watching me solve the problem then unsubscribe from the thread. Let's not start an Internet fight. 4. If my bank 1 (front) O2 sensor is reading >2.6 volts that means my A/F ratio is lean. Right? It's just a data point worth mentioning. I should have been more clear and said "...at least one of my cylinders is running lean, I'm assuming it's #2." So... should I do a leak-down test or not? :spin: It'll probably get to that point, but wouldn't it be much simpler if I could narrow it down to something simple like a loose or exposed wire?

I wish it was that simple. Cold, warm, hot, it doesn't seem to matter. Thanks for your $.02 though.

bump for HELP!

Post #1 updated. Summary: still not solved, checking the vacuum lines is next.

I received new o-rings in the mail on Friday. I'll put them on tomorrow even and see what happens. I'm not very confident that new o-rings will fix my problem, so.... By an amazing stroke of luck (and some praying) I stumbled on a used injector on ebay today. It was only $20 so I snagged it about as quickly as you can say holy-fuel-injector-batman! I should have it in my car by Friday. Will the problem's legacy be vanquished, or will the turbo wagon still run with a stumble in it's step? Stay tuned for next weekend's long awaited finale. Same bat time, same bat channel.

Or DMLM if you're a GE-type. (article here with a pic of a 'printed' fuel nozzle)

Haha no worries, that's how it works on the internet sometimes.

I haven't looked at it any closer than I needed to in order to remove the injector. The misfire started out in cyl#2 and moved when I swapped the injector with the one from cyl#1. If there was something wrong with a harness or wiring then I think swapping injectors wouldn't have caused the misfire to move.

Post #1 updated. Soaking overnight in carb cleaner and running it through my ultrasonic (soaked in Lucas fuel treatment) for 20 minutes didn't fix it. The o-ring kit I bough didn't have the right sized o-rings or pintle caps... so I don't know if that would solve it yet. I'm getting close to just buying a new (used) injector.

In addition to tools here's what you'll need (assuming you're doing the flywheel): TP50 socket/bit to remove the flywheel (torx and torx+ aren't the same shape, so the "+" is very important. I got mine on amazon [ame=http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O846UI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1]here[/ame]) Flywheel (I reused the OEM torx+ bolts & the flywheel bearing) Friction plate (nothing else needed) Pressure plate (mine included new bolts) Throw-out bearing (not always necessary, but why not do it while you're in there?) Alignment tool (cheap-o plastic, should come with your kit) Grease for the driveshaft (people often argue about the type/brand) You'll probably also want/need a can of PB Blaster (brand) penetrating oil. Sticker for your window *optional, but generally agreed upon as an unproven performance enhancer*

About 450 miles ago I installed the Competition Clutch (brand) stock replacement clutch kit for '06-'14 WRX's / '05-'09 LGT's (this one) from RallySportDirect. Everything fit perfectly except the pressure plate slapped the dust cover on the underside of the tranny. The noise sounded like a thousand hornets destroying my transmission (vid ), but I didn't find out it was a simple fix until after I opened up the tranny for a second time... all I had to do was bend down the dust cover a little bit so it didn't come into contact with the pressure plate = problem solved. Learn from my mistake: if you redo your clutch and hear something that sounds like Satan driving a Nascar, check the dust cover before you tear everything out again. My new clutch insn't fully broken in yet but so far I'm very happy with it. Oh yeah, and no engine codes or weird noises from the lightweight flywheel.