StkmltS

Yesterday I read all of your valve adjustment thread and I'm definitely keep the engine in the car. I've never completely pulled an engine and I certainly don't want to do it just for this. I'm due for a timing belt change this summer anyways so that cost doesn't really bother me. Gaskets, seals, bolts... mere drops in the bucket that I would have spent (knock on wood) on a new/built shortblock. I think I'm going to suck it up and buy the company 23 intake/exhaust sprocket tool here. I hate spending $50 on a tool I only plan to use once, but the PITA you went through sounds like $50 may be worth it this time.

If this fixes my misfire I'll buy your app just to say thanks

Finally some good news! I just checked the valve clearances on cylinders #2 & #4 and found that everything is within spec except for my cyl #2 exhaust valves. The clearance between the cam lobes and the buckets only measures .008" (.0085" won't go). This seems to be pretty consistent with everybody ragging on the stock tune for burning exhaust valves, so I'm gonna adjust my out-of-spec valves and pray for the best. Special thanks to xt2005bonbon for convincing me to check my valves.

My cylinder #2 has had a yucky misfer for a few thousand miles and after trying every other conceivable fix I just checked my valve clearances (oil still on my hands... and now keyboard). The buckets for my exhaust valves only have .008" clearance so I'm definitely in need of an adjustment. I work at an aerospace manufacturing shop so I'm gonna try to sweet talk the best guy in our tool room and hope I can convince him to machine my buckets on one of his mills. I have a drill press at home, so if all else fails I'll try the unmodified heiche method. If I end up buying new buckets what's the harm in jacking up my stockers?

Leaky cam sensor fixed... ecu reset... 2k to 6k rpm runs in 2nd and 3rd complete. The LV snapshot was taken after the two pulls. romraiderlog_20150626_211840.csv romraiderlog_20150626_211921.csv

There isn't really a Cincinnati thread so... I saw a red LGT wagon yesterday with Kentucky plates around 5:15pm on Spring Grove Ave on the West side of downtown Cincinnati. You here?

Today's news: "This past weekend a tentative agreement was reached between the labor union (me) and the family's emotional management (wife) regarding the amount of overtime (car stuff) that the labor union is currently being limited to. Details of the tentative agreement have not yet been released, but an unnamed source has been quoted as saying 'I think she's gonna to let me get about 10 hours a week, but I bet she'll totally throw it out the window whenever she wants her vehicle worked on.'"

It's not my DD. I bought the wagon last June so that my '92 Corolla can become the [lemons] race car it was born to be. Now I have to keep it street legal until the LGT runs the way it should

So the numbers suggest that I may have a vacuum leak. I smoke tested the engine and found a leak from under the intake manifold, but I haven't identified exactly where it's coming from. Thousands of dollars are on the line (if #inansb) so taking off the manifold is no doubt worth the trouble. I really appreciate your help.

Does downloading the ROM reset the ECU? My last day of driving may be included by the LV, so about 30 miles about 10 days ago, and about 10 minutes on the day of the LV.

Those two codes were there because a few minutes before I took this snapshot I started the car without the MAF connected... doh! I've never seen these codes under normal circumstances (MAF plugged in).

I didn't have much time to mess with my car this past weekend, but I managed to get my tactrix cable working enough to take a snapshot and log what the car does at idle. I didn't take the time to make sure I was logging the correct parameters, I really just wanted to see what kind of numbers would show up for cyl#2. I hadn't ran the car in about 10 days so this LV snapshot is probably worthless. While I was messing with the car I noticed that my coolant is really dark, it looks very much like oil is leaking into it. Going the other way, my oil looks, feels, and smells like it should. Don't flame my scientific look/feel/smell test... Could that be a head gasket leak? This weekend after I fix my leaky camshaft sensor I'll drive the car around and get a couple good logs. 2015-06-20_romraiderlog_20150620_154511.csv

Grab a sharpie marker and after you take off each coil write down the number of the cylinder where the coil came from. Do this before you rearrange anything so that you don't get confused... it's easy to get things mixed up. Take off the #1 coil, take off the #3 coil. - Put the #1 coil where #3 was, and put the #3 coil where #1 was. Take off the #2 coil, take off the #4 coil. - Put the #2 coil where #4 was, and put the #4 coil where #2 was. ^^ doing it this way will allow you to work on one side of the engine at a time. If your problem moves it was your coils. If it doesn't move then do everything I did in post #1 and/or start researching #YNANSB (you need a new short block).

My Tactrix Openport showed up yesterday! Hopefully I'll figure out how to log to SD before Saturday so I can log a couple miles of easy driving and see what there is to see.

fixed it for ya

I've been debating on whether or not to become a donating member for a while, and today I finally made the jump. The walkthroughs and how-to threads on here are priceless. In just the one year that I've owned my LGT I've already saved hundreds of dollars by doing repair and maintenance work myself. Have you gained $30 worth of knowledge? Have you saved $30 by doing a repair yourself? Follow the Scotts lawn fertilizer guy's advice and "Feed LegacyGT.com ... feed it."

Below the first dot is LOW (add oil NOW). Above the second dot is FULL (stop adding). Anywhere between dots 1 and 2 is sufficient to keep your engine healthy. I didn't know what the third dot was for. I like to keep the oil in my vehicles towards the high side (almost or right at "full).

She's parked in my garage and in a somewhat organized state of undress. Let me explain my oil consumption estimate... It's barely a rough estimate, more like an educated guess. About 2k mi into my ownership I added 1qt to get the level to the very top side of the acceptable range on the dipstick. I had been checking the oil at every fill up, I just didn't add any oil until then. When I bought the car the oil level was within the acceptable range, but I don't remember if it was towards the high, low, or in the middle. The previous owner said the oil had been changed the week I purchased the car. At the only oil change I've done so far (OCI 4,060) the dipstick still showed the oil to be on the higher side of acceptable. Since that ^ oil change (1k mi) there hasn't been a noticeable change in my oil level. I just got done reading a couple other valve clearance check-a-roo threads and it sounds like it's worth a shot. Work at my job #1 is slow so I can surf online much of the day and learn about our cars, but my wrench time is severely limited by job #2 and my 3 little kids who are driving their mommy crazy because they don't get to wrestle with or even see their daddy during the week. To make it more difficult, my wife loves the wagon but she hates me spending time on/under it. This weekend is our yard sale, next weekend is Father's day, the next weekend is... it never ends. We'll be out of debt this fall so I'll have time (and $) to put into the car.

1. I have not checked valve clearance... the internet hasn't taught me how to do that yet haha. Any tips or links? 2. I'm consuming less than 1qt every 1500 miles. It does not smoke while running, at low or high RPM. FWIW I've only put about 5k on the car since buying it last June. 3. The misfire happens at all temps, 100% of the time.

So I've been reading all of of the build threads on here and I'm scared that the light at the end of my tunnel may be ending with #YNANSB. I may take my car to a local speed shop this weekend and see if they have an opinion about my problem. Very fortunately my wife is awesome and understands how much I like the car, unfortunately (if ynansb=true) the $ for a big project like this wouldn't be available until this winter. p.s. #RememberTris

Update: I really need someone to tell me that #YNANSB is not in my future. My neighbors liked the seafoam show, but it didn't help my car. Swapping cam sensors didn't move the misfire. I guess my next task is to pinpoint the vacuum leak that's coming from under my intake manifold. Thoughts on painted intake manifolds?

In the end it depends on what my problem really is, but for only $10 it sounds like it's at least worth a shot. After my neighborhood goes to sleep tonight I'll find out if this magic snake oil really works.

1/2 can in the gas tank? Did you put any in the crank case or suck any through a vacuum line?

I bought the car last June with about 96k miles on it, I'm the third owner. The previous owner said no mods other than window tinting, and carfax shows owner #1 was a company that had all regular service completed at Subaru stealerships. As far as I can tell everything has always been stock with the exception of wear-and-tear items. There aren't any odd holes in the interior indicating removed mounts/gauges, and all original engine bits/wiring are where they should be and look like they've never been touched. Other than a few LED bulbs and my new clutch (WRX setup) the car is bone stock.

Based on everything I've read online my oil consumption is very typical for this car/year/mileage. I've never seen smoke come out of the filler tube, but during the leakdown test that's where I heard the air escaping (for all cylinders). I've swapped the plugs, coils, and injectors, and I replaced the original IM gaskets with the new(er) part# gaskets.