StkmltS

I replaced the stock catted UP with a catless UP from a newer LGT, but the DP is still stock w/cat. I've read/heard/been told mixed opinions about catless DPs so for the time being I'm keeping it as-is. What are your thoughts?

I'm flashing a stage 2 map today. Basically I used Mickyd2005's stage 2 ROM (WGDC tables reduced by 20%), with rhino6303's fueling changes (from 2006 JDM Legacy GT with A2UG000B), and my own MAF sensor scaling with a 7k/6.5k off/on rev limit. I'm using MickyD's stage 2 map pretty much because I ended up with a JMP custom-vf40 instead of a stock vf40. I've started messing around with the tune sooner that I thought I would, and I'm blaming that on the cold weather. In the last couple of months I've learned alot about tuning and I feel confident in my ability to tweak my ROM as needed. At the start of this I wasn't planning on "going stage 2", the complete opposite actually, but here we are nevertheless. If the stars are aligned properly (if it's not raining) I'm going to pick up some vacuum Ts on my way home from church and move the fuel pressure regulator vacuum reference line from the IM to the BPV. I'm also ready to switch over to synthetic oil so that also might happen today.

Lately I've been paying close attention to how the misses feel, and I think I finally know how to describe it. Do you know how the car feels when you're in that mid-2k RPM "stumble-stutter" zone? Well, if you could keep the car right in that zone so that it's continually stumble-stuttering, that's how my car feels when it's idling at 0 mph. I'm going to relocate the FPR ref line to the BPV and see if either condition improves.

I've been using that same sensor for a while to monitor my oil pressure and I'm also logging via TGV. The output signal from my sensor looks very similar to the signal from yours. See the attached chart. *edit* just saw your other post... reduced sampling (more parameters) doesn't change how much it bounces around. In the log I pulled my data from I was logging 25 parameters. Could the dropouts be caused by the grounding for the added sensors? Both of my TGV's are being used as sensor inputs (oil press. and wbo2) and I've never seen any dropouts... not that it happens on every car. FWIW Wbo2: the ground and +12v both come from the battery to an SPDT relay, then to the sensor/controller. The switched +12v (turning on the relay) is coming from the stock front O2 sensor harness. Oil pressure: entirely powered/grounded through the TGV harness.

Check your PMs.

I think this was the first time I've seen positive values in the LV timing corrections. Supposedly it was 9deg F outside this morning, so maybe that had something to do with it. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170107/2fdc0498a5f1705509071573e8d596f2.jpg

Nope

2848.1 on the rebuild (112,000 on the car) and all is well. 17.59 mpg on my last tank of fuel. I haven't seen any new oil spots on my driveway in quite a while so the leak may have stopped. This LV is pretty typical of what I see on a daily basis. It's pretty much always pulling timing in one cell in the leftmost column, sometimes the LV shows correction in the two left columns (one cell each), and I can't remember ever seeing a non-zero value in either of the two right columns. I occasionally see single occurrences of knock during shifts and while accelerating from a stop, which is probably what's causing the timing correction. I'm concerned enough that I'm going to start messing with the tune to eliminate the knock, but not concerned enough to stop driving the car with enthusiasm. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161230/675eda0a6321453c9bec0474318659c5.jpg

Whats up with everybody having fuel leaks? Seems like quite a few people have been talking about it lately.

Well that sucks. I won't ask how to resolve the married w/o AP issue because I'm sure there are a thousand threads about it elsewhere. The more I learn, the more I'm glad I went opensource. Speaking of opensource... maybe I should load a stage 2 map as a Christmas gift to "the silver car" as my kids call it.

Thanks for the compliments. So far I'm very pleased with the outcome. Others can chime in... if you have an AP tune loaded in the car, can you overwrite the car's existing ROM with a new ROM via a Tactrix cable? If yes, Darth you could just buy/borrow a Tactrix cable and use it to load a new stage 2 map (opensource or a custom eTune). If you already have the stock ROM or an opensource ROM loaded in your car, you could just save that ROM to a computer and compare it to a stock ROM... or send it to me and I'll compare it to a stock '09 ROM.

I did it myself, so whether or not it was necessary wasn't a factor for me. Looking backwards: a break-in tune for my 99% stock rebuild probably wasn't absolutely critical. It certainly didn't hurt though. My tune pretty much consisted of limiting boost to the wastegate minimum and lowering the redline. It wasn't fancy but it did the job of helping me be easy on the motor.

Being pressed for time definitely doesn't make it easy. Maybe you could clean-up and resell the used "large expensive parts" to offset some of your expenses?

Post #3 updated with my final project cost of $3,757.61 Under $4k baby!

Rallysportdirect usually has decent prices and free shipping on clutch kits. Vendors on this forum probably have comparable prices.

Oh, the beans have been given! I haven't driven it as hard, as long, as it would see in an autoX race, but I punch it quite often. My redline is set at 5k and I've bounced off of it several times. Look at me! I'm a badass 'cause I can bounce off my lowered redline! To make everyday driving more fun I've been working on rev-matching my downshifts during braking, IMO engine braking kind of happens during that. My daily roads aren't very fun so I look for entertainment anywhere I can. Sometimes I pretend I'm in an IMSA race and all of the other cars around me are in lower classes Then another scooped Subaru shows up and I follow him/her for a while until I remember I have a wife and 4 kids waiting for me at home and I can't die today

Tickle me sideways and call me on Monday if cylinder "F" doesn't bump my oil consumption above the 1-1.5 qts per ≈3k mi that many people on here regard as typical. The misses improved significantly after I made the target AFR super rich at idle. Previously the 'roughness count' would climb close to 40 in cyl 2 (the worst cylinder), now it rarely goes above 20.

The missing hasn't changed since I last played around with the AFR tables. 98% of the time it misses at idle, the other 2% is pleasantly miss-free. I haven't done crap with the spark plugs yet, and probably won't until the spring

About 2.5k miles on the motor and all is well. It's still occasionally leaving tiny little wet spots on my driveway, but it's only leaking maybe a teaspoon a week. Based on dipstick observations the motor is consuming (+leaking) a small, but measurable, amount of oil. I'll calculate exactly how much is being consumed when I switch over to synthetic (Starting amount + amount added - ending amount = amount consumed). My guess is that's it'll be somewhere in the ballpark of 1-1.5 qts per 3k miles. From what I've seen so far I'm not concerned. I'm keeping my eye one it, just not concerned. I'm on the stock boost tables, so 13.54 psi. I'm overboosting a tad and I think I'm seeing closer to 14.5 psi. I'm not totally sure though because I can't find the log I took on 11/22-23 and I haven't logged anything at full-boost since then.

FIFY I didn't have time to correct your other pics.

I crapped my pants "But, but, now where am I going to go for tuning tips?" A point to you, good sir

That's not a stupid question at all. I think it's fairly common to hear about vehicles starting right up after sitting for years. And that's just with standard motor oil. I bet with assembly lube you could wait 10 years. I think the general idea is that this method puts the oil closer to where it needs to be. It doesn't "pump" any oil anywhere it just slathers the crank/rods with oil so that it's right there when the oil pump starts churning. When a new/rebuilt motor is (finally!) ready to start-up for the first time it's usually recommended to turn the motor over (using the key) for 10/20/30/whatever seconds without allowing the motor to actually run. You can do that by pulling the spark plugs, disconnecting the coil packs, disconnecting the fuel injectors, taking out the fuel pump fuse (our best option)... basically anything simple that will prevent the car from running. Trying to start the motor (with your key) while at the same time preventing it from running (no fuel pump fuse) "primes" the motor by allowing the oil pump to do what it was designed to do, pump oil everywhere, without running the motor. The starter turns the motor over at a much slower rate (less RPM) than when the engine is running, so anything that doesn't have as much oil on it as you'd like (rod bearings) will quickly get oiled without being damaged.

I vaguely remember getting a "gas cap" code once a couple years ago, but that memory could easily have been from a different vehicle.

2000 on the rebuild, 111151 on the car. I've been seeing a little bit of knock lately between shifts and/or at low load, but zero knock at WOT. I've been playing around with several idle tables in my tune so the LVs aren't worth much right now. I logged a 2nd/3rd gear pull yesterday and it felt smooth all the way up to my temporary 5k rev limit. The BtSsm "dyno" says 243hp / 251tq. Those numbers probably aren't very accurate but it's still fun to see them. So what, a good estimate would say 73% of that would be measured at the wheels? http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161123/64f40754e300329f04274edef1a69022.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161123/ac300a3c5d805bd7ab8bba5ef26f04d5.jpg

I revised my ROM with the A2UG000B tables and flashed it to the car two days ago. I'm sure the new tables are are good thing, but I can't see a difference in the way its idling. For quite a while I've had a small fuel leak near the filler tube. I replace the FP gasket but that didn't help. I've been semi-ignoring the problem, assuming it's a minor-but-dangerous issue, but maybe it's the root cause of my misfires. Adjusting my target AFR @ idle definitely improved my idle, which sounds like it could be evidence to support a fuel deliver problem. For my next reflash I'm going to change the target AFR back to stock, and change the fuel pump duty cycle to always be at 100%... if I can remember where I saw the 2d table in the ROM.