StkmltS

Sounds like my rebuild... it looks good from a distance at least I'm sure it's been done many times before me so you may be thinking of someone else.

Almost 2k on the motor and all appears to be well... other than the occasional wet spot on the driveway. I've been catching whiffs of coolant lately, and the turbo inlet has some crusty coolant spots on it, so maybe that's my problem. Yesterday I turned the boooooooost back up to the stock levels. It feels awesome, awesome I tell you! After flashing the boost back up actual boost was about 3psi less than target boost. Well, apparently I've been driving around for about a year without the boost restrictor pill. I saved all of my old vacuum lines so it was an easy fix digging out the pill and putting it into my new(er) line. Target boost and actual boost are friends again.

I'm convinced. I'm leading an orienteering class/course for my scout troop this weekend so it may have to wait until Sunday. I can't imagine it fixing my problem but just the chance of a slight improvement is worth the effort. I'm VERY glad I went opensource vs Cobb. I've also been thinking about turning my boost back up a little sooner than planned

Thanks for taking the time to post those tables. Why did you decide to change your map in the first place? Was there any noticeable difference after switching to the A2UG000B values?

^ yes please! I may not use the table but I'd at least like to give it a look-see. Sent from inner space.

post 662 edited for your pleasure

I should have done that but I didn't think to. What do you guys think I should be learning from this little experiment? I'm leaning towards focusing my efforts on finding a fueling problem. ---Adding fuel at idle improves the misfires. ---My gas mileage is consistent with what I've seen since owning the car, but 18.5 mpg seems to be lower than many other people see in their mostly-stock LGTs. Possibly related (and certainly needs addressed): ---Sometimes I notice a fuel smell outside of the car, and when the tank is 100% full a small amount of fuel (50ml*) leaks out overnight and creates a small wet spot on the ground in front of the rear wheel. *fluid leakage estimate is in metric for birkhoff. -edit- and xt2005bonbon, but only partially because he's in the US and should be using our confusing measuring system.

That was a bad idea. I had my laptop with me today so I reflashed the AFR-rev5 changes while I was in the parking lot before my commute home... during rush hour, in the dark, in the rain. My idle was total crap and stalling was out of control. Creaping forward at <10 mph was all but impossible without bouncing up and down looking like one of those $0.25 ride-a-pony rides in front of an old K-mart. All of thay garbage is pretty usual stuff that I expect to see after a reflash, I just shouldn't have reflashed right before entering stop and go traffic. Sent from inner space.

Since my last update I've adjusted the AFR in the 900rpm row a couple of times and it doesn't look like it's helped (see chart #4). As long as America doesn't implode after today's elections I'm going to bring the 900rpm row back down to -1 (that was AFR test #3, for AFR test #4 I have the values set at -2), and I'm going to change the adjusted values in the 800rpm row up to -1.5. The amount of fuel I'm "wasting" on this experiment doesn't bother me, but I'd rather not dump a ton of fuel into the motor if I don't have to. So.... Adding fuel obviously helped. Whenever I come to a stop I'm still cringing at the inevitable misses, but they're pleasantly softer and almost ignore-able. Should I continue this experiment and take away fuel (higher AFR than stock) to see if the misses get worse? Lean is bad and usually undesirable, but assuming the motor doesn't knock, my logic is telling me that 20 seconds of idling at 15.7 AFR and 0.4 load wouldn't do any permanent damage.

Check ebay first if you're feeling frisky

It's not settled. I'm semi-ignoring it and hoping it goes away. Isn't that how these kinda things work? I'm due for my 1,500 mi oil change, and I'll try to get pictures while I'm in there this time. Maybe I can mount my borescope somewhere up in there that it won't melt and take a video while I'm driving. I'm sure as snot the cord will reach that far.

It's sort of on the original tune. CL to OL delay table is set to zero, target boost is set at zero, the MAF table is rescaled, the idle is set a little higher than stock, and quite a few DTC's are disabled (misfire, TGV, and EGT codes). Until this past weekend those are the only non-stock changes I've made to the ROM. This weekend I started playing around with the CL Fueling Target Compensation (Load) table to mess with my AFR @ idle. That has nothing to do with the rebuild, it's just an experiment to see if I can affect misfires. There's plenty of discussion about that can of worms in my misfire thread (see link in sig). I'm really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really hoping it's not the rear main seal. I have zero desire to ever disconnect the transmission from the motor ever again. Maybe I'll feel differently in the spring when it warms up.

Those guys look competent and I'd really doubt any professional injector service would overlook something bad enough to cause you problems. Did they tell you the flow rate (cc/min) for each of your injectors? Maybe the electrical connections on your problematic injector are slightly bent, just enough to cause problems. That's the best I can come up with.

It looks like I may be finally getting a little closer to figuring this thing out. Image #1, "Prior to AFR Change, Prior to reflashing" I let the motor warm up to about 180°F before I took this ~18 second log @ idle. For tonight's test this is my baseline log. Image #2, "Post AFR Change 1, Immediately after reflashing": I changed a few values (to lower the AFR) in the 800rpm row of the CL Fueling Target Compensation (Load) table and it successfully reduced the number of observed misses! This log was taken within the first minute of the motor running post-reflash. Usually after resetting the ECU my idle is absolutely horrible and it takes a workday's worth of miserable driving before the ECU learns the correct fueling well enough to keep the motor from stalling whenever the RPM drops down to idle. After this reflash the idle was much more tolerable and I didn't have to play with the throttle up to keep it from stalling immediately after start-up. Image #3, "Post AFR Change 2, Immediately after reflashing": I changed those same values even lower and the misses slowed down again. Could this really be happening? This log was taken within the first minute of the motor running post-reflash #2. Image #4, "Post AFR Change 2, After a few miles of driving": I needed gas in a bad way so I drove a few miles on the second AFR tune. Believe it or not, the misses improved even more after the ECU had some time to do a little fuel learning. My idle RPM fluctuates between about 750-850 (800 target), so tomorrow I'm going to change the values in the 900rpm row (CL Fueling Target Compensation (Load) table) to match the changed values in the 800rpm row to see if the misses improve even more. Details worth noting: The axes for the first three plots are all set to the same min/max values so that the charts are easier to visually compare. The logs are all about 18 seconds long so there's hardly any data missing in the X direction. The fourth chart has a longer X-axis because I wanted to see more data. The first three logs took place within a window of about 10 minutes, and the fourth log was about 20 minutes after that. Conclusion: What should I do with this information? Answer: sleep on it.

1,489 on the rebuild, 110,641 on the car. I just gassed up and on my last tank I got 18.56 mpg. I tried pretty hard to take it easy, but my heavy foot got the better of me quite a few times. Keeping the motor in higher a RPM than I've been used to only made my tendency to stomp worse. No measurable oil consumption (the small drip is still present) and the car feels great. I changed the front rotors and pads last weekend and I'm happy with the results. I've been driving on toasted pads and a grooved rotor for so long that all I can really say about the new stuff is that it "feels good". Sent from inner space.

I think you're right. There's an obvious table for OL AFR, and only compensation tables for the CL AFR. I'll look into the points/percent that you mentioned. I'll probably have some time late tonight. Sent from inner space.

Yes, sort of, i think. Rescaling the MAF table to add fuel (trying to "trick" the ECU into adding more fuel) would just make the trim go more negative. I need to change the target AFR. Then I just sit back and let the computer do all of the short-term fuel corrections it needs to do (also affecting the long-term 'A' learned value) so that I hit my new, lower AFR. I could be 100% wrong, but I'm 93% sure that I'm 99% correct. So with a personal target CWR (correctness-wrongness-ratio) of 1:0, my short-term certainty is -7%, and my long-term learned correctness is -7.93%. Do the math, I'm pretty sure it checks out. Sent from inner space.

All four trims are well within +/- 5%. The A trim fluctuates alot, but it always floats somewhere between -1 and -4. I've rescaled my MAF once since the rebuild, but even before that all four trims were within +/- 5%. I'm wanting to decrease the target AFR (add fuel) only at idle just to see what happens. Maybe I could change a few cells in the MAF scaling table to accomplish this, but that seems like the wrong way to do the right thing. Plus, my brain has recently shifted into "tuning mode" and I'm eager to start really digging into how to tune properly. Don't get too scared, right now I'm more interested in the how and why of tuning, and not so much into trying to add power. That will come eventually, probably, but I want a good foundation of solid understanding first. Right now my misfire problem is a major motivator for me to learn more about tuning my car. I really believe that understsnding how the ECU tells the motor what to do is going to be a key part of figuring out what the root cause its. I'm starting to ramble on, I'll stop now. Sent from inner space.

Im going to add a little fuel at idle and see if that helps or makes it worse. My thinking is: if it gets worse then Im probably dealing with a sparking problem; if it gets better I may have a fueling issue. Now to figure out the correct table to modify... Hopefully Ill have some free time this weekend to play around on the computer and figure it out.

Thank-you. I was only looking in the A2WC521N.xml and ecu_defs.xml files. The more I learn about this stuff, the more interesting it gets. Worth checking out: Fuel Pressure Explained

How do I find the HEX address to monitor Fuel Pump Duty? I know the (other?) address is 3ad04, but to monitor it in BtSsm I need the hex address. ROM: A2WC522N (based on A2WC521N (based on 32BITBASE)). At this point I'm more interested in understanding how to find it, not just finding it.

I have about 1,300 miles on the rebuild. Maybe I'll pull the plugs at my next oil change in ~200 miles.

Injectors and coil packs were first swapped in early January, 2015 @ approximately 98,162 miles. So about 12k miles ago.

It started missing again this morning at around 115°. Playing with the throttle at <115° did not induce misfiring. Indeed I have. I jumped on a good deal on 4 new non-OEM coil packs a while ago (please save the scoldings until the end), so those may go on sometime soon just for the love of moving things around and not sitting still. I also swapped injectors, swapped plugs, replaced the IM o-rings, installed a new turbo inlet, installed new vacuum lines, smoke tested, compression tested, leak-down tested, sanity tested (failed), had an oil sample analyzed, did a few other things, aaaaaaand completely rebuilt the motor.

If it ever were to pop off I'm pretty sure you'd notice it pretty quickly, especially at idle. You may not notice on a long flat stretch of highway, but as soon as you tried to accelerate up an incline you'd notice something wasn't right. It probably wouldn't feel bad enough to make you want to pull over "RIGHT NOW!", but it would be noticeable. I highly doubt that it would cause any long term damage to your motor. It certainly isn't healthy, but if vacuum/boost leaks were catastrophic then people all over the world would be blowing up their motors every day. Just my $0.02