stevenc1703

raptor is going on now what's this light mean it came on for a couple minute during the baseline.http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/05/adype3a6.jpg

 

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That's to let you know that you have finally released the magic genie from under the hood. Lol

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Well regardless, anyone who's interested in headers should send an email to Raptor inquiring to show interest and help change it from a "Likely" to a "Definitely will".

 

I've heard that the 3.0 made more power with the headers, so it's possible we would too. But again, it's something that needs to be seen. I wouldn't mind being among the first to try it, although I probably wouldn't pay an exorbitant price to be the first, especially with something unproven. And that's definitely something I'd insist on a tune w/ dyno time for.

Dido.

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If it's designed to work with our cats, could a universal high-flow cat have the appropriate flanges welded on and replace our cats?

If I remember correctly our cats have the o2 sensors built in. This would make it difficult

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Would headers really even help. Our exhaust manifold is pretty small anyways and the pipes are pretty straight. If you aren't affecting air flow at the cat I don't think it would really help much. I have no idea how much flow our cats have but I'm guessing due to the size of the cats that they are pretty restrictive.

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Dangit...we need cats along with it unless it is meant to bolt up to the oem cats.

 

I have emailed them about this months ago.

Or catless, that's what everybody is doing now a days. I don't want any issues with inspection so I wouldn't do it unless I pass inspection and it doesn't throw any codes. A high flow is possible too, but I doubt they will make one to work with our cats, plus I don't want to get to loud.

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Yes it works. The Takeda connects to one side of the factory airbox. The intake funnel connects to the bottom of the factory airbox in replacement of the "milk jug".

I just installed mine this week with no problems.

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Bilsteins aren't matched either. No Sub $3-5k dampers will be. Bilstein might have a better chance of them being matched though or you may have gotten lucky.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

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Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

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That's sucks considering the bilsteins for the 5th gen aren't adjustable. At least with the konis you could attempt to match them.

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^^I have the same springs/shocks as you, but 23mm OEM FSB and 22mm Whiteline and -1 camber in the front and -2.5 in the rear. My car is pretty neutral powering out of corners, but pushes pretty bad under hard braking going into corners. Yours should feel similar even with your 26/24mm sways. My fix will be adding camber, as much as I can to the front, and LCA's for the rear to stand the tires up. My target is -1.8 front and -1 rear, and with my current sways, should get the front to bite a little better and give me a little more oversteer to have some fun with. My Koni's are set to 1.5f and 1.0r from full soft.

So now I'm confused, that's what I'm set at but I was told that I should be stiffer in the rear because of understeer

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No worries, still some good info being thrown up here for just about every subie out there.

 

By the way, just realized you're in NOVA. Hi

Yea i'm in winchester? Where are you?

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The stiffer your RSB, the less-stiff you want your dampeners...at least for a DD. And adding a RSB is going to dial-in oversteer so be attentive until you get the feel for it, especially in high-torque/throttle-on turns. It could get squirrely on you. Fun, but squirrely until you figure-out the break-away point(s).

So what would you recommend that I try? I have a 2011 3.6r legacy, konis with h&r springs, 26mm fsb, 24mm rsb, tanabe front stb, and gtspec rear stb, with a .5 camber in the front and 2.5 in the rear. I can't fix the camber till I get rear adjustable lcas. Should I be stiffer or softer in the rear than the front?

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For the 4th gens it a whiteline bushing in the LCAs, not a top hat. Not sure if you have a 5th gen.

 

 

 

 

Haha, nope. You're posting in a 4th gen install thread tho

 

Dynamics may well be different for a 5th gen, but like almost every other passenger car on the road these days (especially FWD / AWD) I'd imagine they come from the factory with a bias towards understeer--it's a safer setup for the average commuter.

Lol, I had no idea this was a 4th gen thread. Yea i'm in a 3.6r 5th gen. I found this thread when I was thinking of getting the konis. My bad.

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Yes. These cars understeer. Setting things up a bit stiffer in the rear (adjustable shocks / coils and/or a RSB) can help that.

 

 

 

So you're saying that stiffening the front (which induces more understeer) is mitigated by your crazy rear grip (which ALSO leads to understeer conditions) feels better? That makes no sense really. Might want to look to get some additional caster up front to increase the turn-in feel, or also look into better tires that would help with that (stiffer sidewalls). That's probably the feeling that you are liking. Going that route would possibly help to keep the "feel" without needing to set the car up like garbage.

Dude, do you even have a 5th gen? From what I've read the the 5th gen aren't like previous generations.

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Yes. These cars understeer. Setting things up a bit stiffer in the rear (adjustable shocks / coils and/or a RSB) can help that.

 

 

 

So you're saying that stiffening the front (which induces more understeer) is mitigated by your crazy rear grip (which ALSO leads to understeer conditions) feels better? That makes no sense really. Might want to look to get some additional caster up front to increase the turn-in feel, or also look into better tires that would help with that (stiffer sidewalls). That's probably the feeling that you are liking. Going that route would possibly help to keep the "feel" without needing to set the car up like garbage.

How do you gain caster? Whiteline top hats don't fit our car.

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Wouldn't you want the rear stiffer in this car to reduce under steer?

I don't know about the physics of the car but stiffer in the front feels better IMHO. It could have to do with camber too. My front is .5 and the back is 2.5 so the back grips pretty good in the turns, when I get the lca's I might end up changing it up.

On another note I just got my gtspec rsb 30 mins ago and installed it so that might change things a little too.

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I like mine set at 1.5f/1.0r from full soft

Dido

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Steven, do you not pay attention? You should be paying attention to this stuff since you have a 3.6R. That is a Raptor Supercharger from Australia....6psi bro!!! And proven, not Ebay shite.

Oh, I didn't see any exhaust stuff with it. I'm not familiar with super chargers but I know that turbos get power from the exhaust so I figured it was fake because of the lack of intercooler and exhaust piping. Sorry.

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A little tease..http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/28/megypazy.jpg

Did you get yourself an eBay turbo? That should raise your compression about 1psi lol.

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Car feels great with the konis! No noises or anything. Rides smoother than it did before it seems and softer ride even 1 full turn from full soft all around. Maybe I'll firm it up a little bit more. Thought it would for sure be harsher! Very happy with them so far. Only did a couple of miles so far though.

I'm liking mine. I went a little farther than 1 turn but it's all preference. Mine is super tight but still pretty comfortable. Coming from coilovers it's still a huge improvement.

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Got a pass through socket set from sears. Tightened fronts no problem but I need an extension to do the rear nuts unfortunately.

 

Front and rear nuts are 17mm. Strut adjustment but is 10mm I believe. Couldn't find my 10mm but 3/8" worked which is almost the same.

Cool, it's a good tool to have on hand.

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Ok that's fine as long as I can tighten them. The nut is 17mm I believe what do you use to hold the dampening adjustment piece?

The front is a 19mm and a 9mm, the back is a 17mm and I think a 9mm.

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Is it possible already bolted in to car do you know? I forgot how the koni yellows were and need to torque down the top nut still.

You can tighten them but you can't torque them. Unfortunately they don't make a reasonably priced pass through torque wrench. I just tighten by feel. You have the same access on the car as you do off the car, the only difference is that the springs are not compressed like they could be while off the car. If they were compressed you could torque the top nut with a standard torque wrench while using a pass through for the larger bottom nut. If you try to do that on the car you will more than likely snap the top nut.

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For the rears. The top nut just spins the dampening adjuster with it. Is that normal? It doesn't seem to get tight.

You need a pass through ratchet to tighten the nut or it will spin. You have to use 2 ratchets one being the pass through. I got a nice craftsman's set from sears for 70 that worked great.

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no 5th gen on this forum has installed it AFAIK. I only put the information up there as provided by stevenc1703.

I also got a response from them via email.

Me:

Does your 5eat valve body rebuild work for a 2011 Subaru legacy 3.6r with the 5eat transmission? Thanks

Them:

Hi,

Yes we can rework those.

Regards, John

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To the sweat drop down my balls, lol.

Or, to my h6 as it hauls. Lol

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Yea I saw him, he sends you a fixed one that you install then you send him your old one. I like the idea of no down time.

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