stevenc1703

It "feels" like there is a gain. You can definitely hear the difference on WOT.

 

Not sure about the exhaust yet. I have hearing loss and don't want to make it worse or hurt my kids hearing. Getting decibel readings from each exhaust is difficult. I know the borla is out.

I need to get a new db reading since I removed the resonator. I found out the exhaust was resting on the body if the car causing excessive noise. It's actually quieter now without the resonator since its not touching the frame.

Hehehe...I'm glad I am not the only one watching them.

 

Have him look at my sonoma raceway runs and hear that darn beeping over and over again as I try to downshift.

 

I am seriously contemplating swapping my front and rear diffs for ones from a tribeca. That will net me 16% lower gearing...3.58 final versus 3.08 in legacy. I cant get enough speed in third gear on straightaways.

 

I hope he has a solution before my next track day september 27th (registration is not yet open). I would much rather have my tcm programmed and have a run at it before I get $3000+ into lowered gears. Better yet...lowered gears and quick shifts....

Using open source tuning, the shifting has drastically improved, you should see really good results when ecutek implements the changes. You might not even need the gear swap. Imho the better shifting alone will get our cars significantly better times in a 1/4 mile let alone a good tune on aftermarket parts.

Without the engine cover, there seem to be plenty of room around the intake pipe. I just like the fact that it's easy on, easy off.

Sorta, it's easier than with the wrap but you have to tape the ends with a special tape to seal the heat out, of you take it off you will have to get more tape cause it won't stick after peeling it off.

If you don't mind spending the money, I guess we could go with this...

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/DEI-010417-Cool-Cover-Tube/dp/B000CEQBXY/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1406988483&sr=1-1&keywords=dei+cool+tube]Amazon.com: DEI 010417 Cool Cover Air Tube Cover Kit: Automotive[/ame]

Actually I had that on my Malibu and it cutters the engine bay possibly reducing natural air flow, it's too baggy. The wrap works very well and doesn't look too bad either.

Thx Fredrik. Sea-level humid 83F ambient, IAT starts at 93-96F, with cold engine. Idle for 8 minutes to see what happens, IAT rose slowly to 105-115F. Applied throttle to raise RPM up to 3 then 4K RPM.

IAT dropped back down to 95F. MAF reading a nice 600cfm.

 

I will see more this weekend as these readings were post MAF/IAT cleaning earlier this week.

 

Last weekend pre-cleaning, I logged a 1.5 hour drive back home from the beach. Ambient 89F, mid afternoon sun. Sun baked engine bay saw IAT of 100 at startup, then climbed up to 110, 120, 130, 140. Mostly highway, then stop and go red lights galore. 50-60mph sections didnt help much, IAT stayed near 120. Just before shutting her down I got a few minutes at 150F in the garage.

 

AFRs, fuel trims, timing, wideband Vs, cfm all looked good (cfm spiked to 1200cfm hehe), same with coolant and atf temps. Car ran fine and pulled well, steady idle too, but intake pipe toasty to the touch.

 

'Cold Start Idle' Log Uploaded Here:

http://www.datazap.me/u/perscitus/2010-subaru-legacy-36r-cold-start-idle?log=0&data=3-5-15

I have the dei cool Tec tape on mine, I can post pics of my iat graph for comparisons. Ill clean the maf sensor today and start logging.

11 is 1.1mm so seems 3.6 might have larger gap. Ones I have pulled out have been 0.8mm BUT they have been dealer serviced.

Where are you located? Maybe due to America's crazy cries for gas mileage they opened the gap on USA models but the power loving people where you live got tighter gaps. Lol

.8mm = .031", why does NGK's website say it's .044"?

Also it says .044 on the 3.0 legacy as well.

Did you reset your ECU after the install?

No, I just did on Friday so I didn't think It would be a big deal if I didn't. Should I if knock learning is showing 0 across the board?

The gap is smaller on the turbo because of higher cylinder pressure, from forced induction. If you gapped your N/A car the same way, you're going to cause pre detonation in your cylinder head. If our plugs had the same sized gap as the N/A engines, it would cause spark blow back. Unless you've boosted your N/A car, use the plugs and gap spacing designed for your car. Without a super/turbo charged engine (or nitrous), or major engine work, you won't have the necessary cylinder pressure to gap your plugs the same way. The 3.6 without forced induction should stay within the specified gap range.

Had anyone played around with this? It sounds like we have a acceptable range of .006 would we be able to tune for more power at .039 vs .045? I might play around with it at least using the accepted ranges.