stevenc1703
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Posts posted by stevenc1703
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What do you mean standard x torque pattern? I used the stock belt. Ill try to take it off this week to look closer at the pulley, it might be warped.
Oh x pattern, yea I did that, I found that the washer was sticking out on one side and that caused the cap problems. It looks better now that I fixed that but the pulley still has a small wobble like it's warped. I used the new crank bolt and washer. I need to take a new video from the side to show you but it's hard to see, like I said I'm a worry wort but with the Crank shaft bearing issues I don't want to risk it. I don't want to have to replace bearings in 10000 miles.
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Ill shoot a video of mine tomorrow evening so you can compare.
Like nstg8r, I dont recall any play, wobble or warping.
Did you end up using the stock or provided crank bolt?
What about the bolt head cover washer? And when torquing the bolt cover back on did you do the standard x torque pattern?
Stock or replacement serpentine/accessory belt?
When I looked at ItalianLegacys setup last month I also didnt see any wobble when the sc beast idled or revved.
What do you mean standard x torque pattern? I used the stock belt. Ill try to take it off this week to look closer at the pulley, it might be warped.
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After looking closer i think the pulley is ever so slightly warped. The pulley is not wobbling up and down on the shaft it's wobbling back and forth. There is no play on the wheel and no noise. Do you think that I should be concerned? I can swap them back out but I don't think it will be a problem cause I don't think it's affecting balance any.
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Mine has zero wobble and is as tight as can be.
When you slid the pulley on did it seat on the key snuggly or was there some play in it?
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The top edges of the pulley look good but it does appear to wobble.
Yea I think it's the cap is slightly uneven
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Mine has zero wobble and is as tight as can be.
Looking closer I think the wobble is at the center cap and my eyes saw it as the whole pulley. I torqued it to 144ft-lbs, not an easy task, and the tensioner doesn't move at all so I think I'm good. Here is a video of the pulley. Watch "Ez36 crankshaft pulley" on YouTube
Ez36 crankshaft pulley:
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I put the crankshaft pulley on but it had a little play around the key, not much but some. Being as much of a worry wort as I am I was looking very close at the new crank pulley to make sure that every thing is good and I noticed a very slight wobble almost like the pulley is not perfectly round. Is this something to be worried about and is it from the play on the key?
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Also I've got the sub in the trunk, my kids car seats, and different junk in the car that will be removed plus the spare, rear seat, and maybe passengers seat will be removed for less weight. The guys at work are racing and we are gonna rank ourselves. I'm going up against a ls1 GTO, 91 5.0 lx mustang, 2013 5.0 GT mustang and who knows what else maybe a modded evo x, I can't be last, they already call my car the granny mobile. Lol
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No real difference. According to a frame by Frame break down it's 0-60 in 5.2 secs 0-80 in 10 flat and 0-90 in 12.2. Light weight crank pulley going on Saturday so these times should get better, plus I have a tune with more timing that I can't currently run because of knock but I should be able to when I get some VP 109 for my drag race in November.
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Also try with traction control turned off
Here 0-80 traction control off.
Watch "3.6r 0-80 traction control off" on YouTube
3.6r 0-80 traction control off:
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Very nice! The shift points and gear transitions looked/sounded very good - I can almost 'hear' the difference. Impressive!
I'm gonna get them changed to 6000rpm shifts when I have the headers tuned, Should be even quicker.
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Here is a video of my car going 0-90, It's slightly uphill. Watch "Subaru 3.6r 0-90 XTREME RACING TUNING" on YouTube
Subaru 3.6r 0-90 XTREME RACING TUNING:
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2012 Legacy 2.5 CVT - Whichever trim has leather, nav, tint, sunroof, heated seats.
Male / 26
Accountant at a private Finance firm
Fourth Subaru, Previously 2005 Legacy, 1997 OBS, 1996 SVX
Mods: About to put the snow tires back on
That's one of the mods I've been wanting to do, how much of a difference is it from stock?
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Pretty sure the first post said that anyone who is 23 and an escort has to post a picture.
Let the leg humping begin.
That's terrible:eek:
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Any idea when another batch of headers will be ready for the general public?
Late December.
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2011 RRP 3.6r
Male 28
Lab technician for Green Bay Pkg
1997 legacy L (wrecked) and 2011 legacy
Exhaust, intake, tune, konis, H&Rs, STBs, bigger sway bars, lca's, & some body work
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Oh wow, that's rich. Ill have to watch out for that when I install the headers. I need to get on a dyno to get some real numbers. I am going to the strip on the 15th pending rain.
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Ok I misunderstood. Also you said that afr's are more than 12 never leaner, I run as low as 11.12 it seems with my car richer at wot ran better, do dyno results show otherwise?
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Your tune had negative timing and your ignition advance was not at 1? I thought I had read that this is bad. I had read that you should always be at 1 on ignition advance and pulled timing should never be more than -2 consistently. Please help me understand if this is not correct.
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Did you bypass one of the o2 sensors?
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On the topic of cats, Al AutoMaster, who fabricated my setup said the only thing we can do is either go full catless or much thicker, just as short cats with 2-2.5" IDs ODs. Hes thinking older diesel or gas truck cats.
In essence, hes suggesting short and chubby cats with plenty of ughmm girth. Bigger as in longer is not better for our application. We just need as much surface area as we can get and a relatively short cat so it can reach operating temp quickly. Transferring the bongs should be no issue, especially if we just keep the wideband sensors and ditch the secondary regular o2s. Both can be tuned out if needed.
Im likely staying with the stock cats. They looked very good at 55K. No clogs, no damage, clean
This is interesting, ultimately I want to hear stock is prefect don't switch cats but I don't want regret either. Either way with raptor not getting headers in till December I'll have some time to decide.
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these look promising http://www.ebay.com/itm/140942069195?item=140942069195&viewitem=&vxp=mtr maybe these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnaflow-99355HM-Heavy-Metal-Catalytic-Converter-Round-2-25-w-O2-Port-/111216590574?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19e5067eee&vxp=mtr , the way I look at it if I don't do cats now I probably will never do them so I should at least do some research. I wont be doing ceramic and im not gonna spend $300 to do it but I might do $140. I cant tell but it looks like these are ceramic even though it doesn't say.
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What do you think of the stock cats? Is it worth upgrading?
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Raptor headers, custom header-back exhaust (still using stock cats but with 2.5/3.0" ID piping throughout) installed and tuned.
Thanks to AutoMaster Fabrication for the design, welding and bolt-up.
Thanks to AMR Performance for the tune.
Pics and videos uploading.
Gains? Approx. 40HP and 100ft-lbf over stock.
I bet your doing small burnouts now lol. 0-60 down to about 4 seconds? I was worried about upsetting the wife by getting these but seeing your results who cares, if I have to get divorced so be it.
Are the headers 2 1/2"? I'm looking into getting cats.
Official 3.6R Mod List
in Fifth Generation Legacy (2010 - 2014 )
Posted
So I took it off and found out that I didn't have the key lined up right. I feel so stupid, chock that up to inexperience. I put it back on the right way this time and it looks pretty straight. I can't see any wobble other than the center cap, there is just enough play in the cap before I tighten it down that I doubt I could ever get it perfect. Thanks for the help, ill have to get the gator belt sometime soon, I can have that swapped out in 10mins so that's not to bad.