covertrussian

Ordered a Grimmspeed pulley, it's pretty nice, definitively a high quality piece. Has some nice weight to it, I was actually worried that it would be more then 2.6lbs. Put it on my kitchen and then shipping scale 2.06lbs!

It seems to vary by the year and car, like say 05 WRX was 4.8lbs, I'll weight my 05 LGT when I remove it. But for this reason I had to search for actual pulley weight instead of the typical 3-5lbs lighter then stock marketing crap.

Figured I would share some crank pulley information that I've gathered while researching the topic. Stock [b]Car ------- Weight[/b] 05 LGT 5.65 lbs 04 FXT 5.65 lbs ATI Super Damper Product Link Part Number - 917991 Underdrive Amount - 5% Overdriven Diameter - 5.5" Price - $367 Advertised Weight - 5.8 lbs Actual Weight - Agency Power Product Link Part Number - AP-GDA-130BLK Price - $150 Advertised Weight - 1.2 lbs Actual Weight - 1.3 lbs Cobb Product Link Part Number - 300102BK Price - $135 Advertised Weight - 1.2 lbs Actual Weight - Gimmick M Product Link Part Number - NA Price - $90 Advertised Weight - 1.2 lbs Actual Weight - Grimmspeed Product Link Part Number - 095015BK Price - $125 Advertised Weight - 1.9 lbs Actual Weight - 2.0 lbs Kartboy Product Link Part Number - KB-050-EJ Price - $85 Advertised Weight - 2.4 lbs Actual Weight - Perrin Product Link Part Number - PSP-ENG-100BK Price - $114 Advertised Weight - 1.2 lbs Actual Weight - UR Product Link Part Number - CS1311A (021310112) Price - $224 Advertised Weight - 2.0 lbs Actual Weight - Fluidampr Product Link Part Number - 531101 Price - $347 Diameter - 5.375" Advertised Weight - 6.9 lbs Actual Weight - Part Number - 531101 OBX Product Link Part Number - Underdrive Amount - Diameter - 4.31" Price - $80 Advertised Weight - lbs Actual Weight - 1.0 lbs Part Number - Torque Solution Product Link Part Number - TS-SU-207A Price - $99 Advertised Weight - 1.32 lbs Actual Weight - Go Fast Bits Non-Underdrive Product Link Part Number - 2009 Price - $130 Advertised Weight - 1.27 lbs Actual Weight - Go Fast Bits Underdrive KIT Product Link Part Number - 2014 Underdrive Amount - Alternator: 16.5%, Power Steering: 18% Price - $300 Advertised Weight - Crank: 0.86lb, Power Steering: .37lb, Alternator: .14lb Actual Weight - Ralco RZ Product Link Part Number - 914923 Underdrive Amount - Diameter - Price - $189 Advertised Weight - 1.5 lbs (with 2 more pulleys) Actual Weight - Cosmo Racing Product Link Part Number - SLE9706-LP Underdrive Amount - ? Diameter - ? Price - $64.50 Advertised Weight - ? Actual Weight - ? Template Product Link Part Number - Underdrive Amount - Diameter - Price - $ Advertised Weight - lbs Actual Weight - ------ OLD FORMAT ------- Aftermarket: [b]Brand ----------- Price --- Weight ----- Part #[/b] Agency Power $104 A1.3 lbs AP-GDA-130BLK Cobb $135 1.2 lbs 300102BK Gimmick M $90 1.2 lbs NotAvailable Grimmspeed $115 A2.0 lbs 095015BK Kartboy $85 2.4 lbs KB-050-EJ Perrin $114 1.2 lbs PSP-ENG-100BK UR $224 2.0 lbs CS1311A (021310112) Fluidampr $347 6.9 lbs 531101 Note: If you see an A infront of the weight, that's an actual weight of the pulley as weighed by the community.

Whiteline caster bushing impression update: These bushings rock! The car handles great after the bushing install! Front end has a ton more traction now, also feels like turning radius at speed has been greatly reduced too (not that this car needed it with an awesome 35 foot turning circle!) NVH barely increased, not all that noticeable, but I am on 100k mile stock suspension so other creeks could be masking it.

Nope I work with computers, car work is my time away from the screen. I've done too much bushing work not to have a shop press, they are about $100 on Amazon primed (yes I'm a jerk that overnighted it for $4 ). It did come in a little broken (the part that presses is bent). I was too lazy to ship it back (100lbs )... I do need to get all of the press collars and doodads to make my pressing life easier.

To reset the ecu the battery route, unplug your negative terminal, go inside, press on the brake to help drain the left over charge, and you should be good. To make sure it resets let it sit at least 30min with battery unplugged.

05 Legacy key is big and bulky, then you add the fob which is huge too. Luckily subaru switched to a key & fob combo for 09 legacy's that we can use for ourselves. Information about the new key: Part Number: 57497AG48A FCC ID: CWTWBU766 IC: 1788D-FWBU766 New styled key on the left (from 09 Legacy), old key on right http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=220975&stc=1&d=1449591467 New styled key on top, it's bigger then the actual key but overall smaller then old key and fob. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=220976&stc=1&d=1449591467 Note: It's a good idea to try to program car key to your car before you get the key cut. This way if your car refuses to accept the key, you can return it. Key programming steps can be found at the bottom of this post. Take the new key apart and you will find the fob, transponder and actual key http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=220977&stc=1&d=1449591504 You can take the key to the dealer, pay $80 to get your ECU repogramed for it. Or you can salvage one of your current keys and steal the transponder from it. I decided to take the transponder from my valet key. On a non valet key it's easy to find which side the transponder sits, on valet key it's a guessing game. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=220978&stc=1&d=1449591504 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=220979&stc=1&d=1449591536 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=220980&stc=1&d=1449591536 Pulled the current transponder out, keep it just in case, put new transponder in (don't mix them up!) http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=220977&stc=1&d=1449591504 Next take apart the fob part, there will be a white paper with two 8 digit codes. You need the top code to program the key. Take a picture of it/write it down. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=220981&stc=1&d=1449591782 Put the key together and go to your car. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=220982&stc=1&d=1449591782 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=220983&stc=1&d=1449591809 Programming the Fob Programing the fob is annoying and overly difficult on the Legacy. On the 04 Forester (and my Nissan's), you put a car into programming mode, press a key on the key fob and done. But no on the legacy you have to punch in the 8 digit code into the car twice using your lock and unlock button! Get in the drivers seat and make sure all of the doors are closed Open and close the driver's door Insert key into ignition and twist it from LOCK to ON 10 times within 15 seconds, leave the key in ON position. Open and close the drive's door again, you should hear electronic beep and continues buzzer along with interior light will flash. You have 45 seconds to enter the 8 digit code in using your lock/unlock door button Press lock the amount of times you see the first digit for, then pres unlock to move to the next digit. In my example pic code (12345678) you would press lock once, unlock once, lock twice, unlock once, lock 3 times, unlock... until you type all of the digits in. Once you have entered the 8 digits there will another sound, now you need to reenter the number the same way you did it before. If the two codes match there should be a beep and doors will lock and unlock Press lock and unlock on the key fob Then take your key out of the ignition and wait for relay to click Open and close the driver's door Wait a little and the key fob should now be working More details on the steps an example video can be found here.

Front Lowercontrol Arm Rear Bushing OEM bushings are notorious for ripping easily, usually last around 40k miles. I don't know why Subaru decided to switch to horizontal bushings, the arm needs movement to avoid binding otherwise the bushing rips. 04 FXT/Impreza's have a vertical bushing, which allows the arm to move a little more freely without ripping the bushing. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253935&stc=1&d=1502334150 I was torn between AVO bushing and the Whiteline one, I found the Whiteline one cheaper, plus on the fly adjustable caster is really cool actually. Part number: Whiteline KCA334 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253934&stc=1&d=1502334150 Unbolt Front bushing http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253936&stc=1&d=1502334150 Unbolt the anti-swaybar end links http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253937&stc=1&d=1502334150 Unbolt rear http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253938&stc=1&d=1502334150 Used a prybar to pull it off http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253939&stc=1&d=1502334150 Getting the control arm off the lower ball joint is a pain. I had to resort to the ball joint puller, which pretty much always damages the ball joint boot. Which means a new ball joint is needed, or at least a boot. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253940&stc=1&d=1502334150 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253941&stc=1&d=1502334150 Control arm finally off http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253942&stc=1&d=1502334150 Fun part was getting the stock bushing off http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253943&stc=1&d=1502334150 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253944&stc=1&d=1502334209 Then press the new one in http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253945&stc=1&d=1502334209 Put it all together and set the bushing to add caster by making the holes point to the inside of the car. I also marked where the caster setting should be so I can see where to adjust it while on the car. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253946&stc=1&d=1502334209 Passenger side installed and adjusted for maximum caster. To gain caster, you want the back of the arm to stick out towards the outside of the car. For that to happen with this arm design, you have to increase the distance between the mount stud and the center point of the arm. Thus you need to rotate the cam, so that the thinner part of the cam faces towards the center of the car. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253952&stc=1&d=1502334209 Rear stud goes directly into the body of the car, Subaru doesn't use a subframe like Nissan does, which means the road noise/vibrations go directly into the body. Will see how much NVH is transmitted with these solid bushings. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253953&stc=1&d=1502334711 Ready to be bolted back up, which takes a few tries... http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253947&stc=1&d=1502334209 The rear bushing will deform a bit since the suspension is at full droop. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253948&stc=1&d=1502334209 All suspension bushings, just like anti-swaybars, should be tightened with full weight on them, this avoids bushing preload. Drive on ramps to the rescue, snuck them under the wheels and lowered the jackstands on them. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253949&stc=1&d=1502334209 Now the rearward bushing is looking better http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253950&stc=1&d=1502334209 Torque everything down and your done. Front nut should be torqued to 81.1ft-lbs, the rear two bolts should be torqued to 110.6ft-lbs. If your on a Legacy, make sure to install the washer (my kit didn't have it, but Whiteline provided it free of charge). http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253951&stc=1&d=1502334209 Driving Impressions These bushings rock! The car handles great after the bushing install, even though I installed them to remove caster instead of add by accident! Front end has a ton more traction now, also feels like turning radius at speed has been greatly reduced too (not that this car needed it with an awesome 35 foot turning circle!). NVH barely increased, not all that noticeable, but I am on 100k mile stock suspension so other creeks could be masking it.

I wanted to test how much was too much with AVCS. Top map is what got me 26.9mpg, bottom map the AVCS advance maxed out. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/ECU/AVCS/AVCS30Cruise.png~original Looks like 30* is definitively too much advance/overlap for stock turbo and downpipe. The car lost power cruising, and was at 3/4 tank by 80 miles, usually it's at 110-120, filled up 23.17mpg... Here are some learning views, this one is from the 10* map http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/ECU/AVCS/LWAVCS10Cruise130miles.jpg~original Here is the 30* map, lots of knocking... http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/ECU/AVCS/LWAVCS30Cruise130miles.jpg~original I will try 15-20* next time I go on a highway drive.

Gah, better part of me says I should replace them, I'm just not 100% sure this motor will last to bother though, maybe I'll do a compression test first...

Yeah I saw his post, thing is he shaved it down, which made it shorter then the stock one on the forester, hence easier to remove .

It's still not enough, my 04 Forester had a different bolt (no high spot). It still was a royal pita to get it out. Here are some pics.... This is with the timing belt off, and bottom bolt unscrewed from the plastic olddeadsite/var/albums/Cars/FXT/Engine/Banjo-Filters/CIMG0020.JPG?m=1389658370 Unscrewed as far as it would go olddeadsite/var/albums/Cars/FXT/Engine/Banjo-Filters/CIMG0046.JPG?m=1389658374 Took a screw driver to it and started forcing it out olddeadsite/var/albums/Cars/FXT/Engine/Banjo-Filters/CIMG0047.JPG?m=1389658375 olddeadsite/var/albums/Cars/FXT/Engine/Banjo-Filters/CIMG0048.JPG?m=1389658376 Since it was under 30*F plastic was a little brittle and did crack, I was so pissed at it I didn't care... olddeadsite/var/albums/Cars/FXT/Engine/Banjo-Filters/CIMG0050.JPG?m=1389658379 Getting it back in wasn't too bad olddeadsite/var/albums/Cars/FXT/Engine/Banjo-Filters/CIMG0051.JPG?m=1389658380

That's the plan, problem is, unless you remove the cams the plastic still is in the way. Now I was thinking about doing the cam seals and crank seal while I'm in there. What's the usual failure rate of the cam and crank seals? Thanks for your help

I've been monkeying with the tune trying to see how much I can squeeze out of the car fairly bone stock (catless uppipe), before I do the downpipe and other money wasters. I wanted to play with running higher AVCS degrees, but I noticed my left head would jump from 0* to 50*, while right head would be at 30* steady. I would say this is due to a clogged banjo filter and low oil pressure at 3k rpm, because at WOT both heads are in sync. Instead I played with target boost tables, wastegate duty cycle, and EGT scaling tables. http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Engine/ECU/Tuning/MPG-Tuning/MPGTuneV2.PNG?m=1392181679 The target boost table and wastegate tables make the car be slightly less peppy at lower throttles, but that's fine on the highway I don't care about peppiness at low throttles. AVCS hole is filled with 10's, which is a known gain to MPG so I incorporated it in this tune. Finally the EGT part, I'm running a 2.2k-ohm resistor, which would make the ECU think the EGT's were 1292*F. I rescaled the EGT table to make it think it's 700*F at all ranges, which is around the degrees the stock catted up pipe setup was running at highway speeds. With this setup, 26.9mpg roundtrip, this is the highest I've gotten it since I did the uppipe/new o2! For a while I was stuck at 24-25mpg on 100% stock tune with up pipe and new O2 sensor. I want to play more with AVCS, but looks like I will need to pull the banjo filter first (and do the timing belt while I'm at it). Edit: With further testing I'm not positive this configuration alone netted an MPG improvement, I think the terrain difference made the bigger difference. I've reverted to stock boost tables for better drive-ability.

Upgraded to the A2WC522N bin, was at A2WC510N, since I was going back to a 100% stock tune, figured I would play with CL to OL Delays. Closed Loop to Open Loop Delay is found on USDM's mainly (it's believed that it's there for emissions reasons), JDM tunes that I've looked at had it disabled. What it does is keep the ECU in closed loop while you are flooring the car for set amount of time, aka lean while in boost! This leads to burnt valves on bone stock cars. Going to any stage 1 tune should disable CL to OL Delay (by zeroing out the values). Lets take a look at the VD graph, look at AFR's. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258216&stc=1&d=1510676384 As you can see with the 100% stock tune, you are staying at high 13 AFR's while pushing 12ish PSI. This is also happening while you are at peak torque, where the engine is the most susceptible to knock. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258217&stc=1&d=1510676384 By disabling Closed Loop to Open Loop Delay (by setting it to all 0's), the AFR's just about instantly dip to 11's, now stock O2 sensor is very inaccurate below 12:1 AFR, thus take it with a grain of salt. But as you can see the engine welcomes the richer AFR's by gaining you 20ft-lbs of torque. Do notice the peak horsepower is "down", which I would blame a slight road inaccuracy for, thus nothing to sweat about. Moral of the story: ALL TURBO SUBARU's should have closed loop to open loop delay disabled if they want to save their valves and gain some power while they are at it!

SR20 is a Nissan 4 cylinder motor, stock built for turbo. USA never got the stock Turbo versions, but they did get a slightly weaker FWD NA version which could still put down 400whp on stock block. RWD SR20 might fight right in though... http://image.modified.com/f/features/modp-0904-1998-nissan-240sx/26193367/modp_0904_07_o%2B1998_nissan_240sx%2Bstroked_sr20det.jpg

Yup, I would LOVE to put an SR20 into this car and keep the AWD trans. Inline 4's are so much easier to work on. I will have to give it to Subaru though, turbo is dirty easy to get to...

Little tune update, had a 1k mile trip this weekend and got to play with the tune a little bit. Main thing I wanted to see is if filling the AVCS map hole would improve or reduce gas mileage. In short, AVCS control the intake cam advance/retard based on oil pressure, by giving advance to the intake cam, you can increase the valve overlap. Stock: http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/ECU/AVCS/05LGTStockAVCS.png~original Generally speaking on restrictive turbo setups, you don't want too much overlap because it causes reversion. But at low throttle your back pressure is much less, thus overlap might be able to help you out. First map shows the "emissions" hole in the map at cruising speeds on the highway, second is me filling that hole up. AVCS at 10*, fixing the emissions hole http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/ECU/AVCS/AVCS10.png~original Results I expected gas mileage loss due to fresh charge contamination from overlap/possible reversion. But results were otherwise, bone stock I got 24.60mpg (which has been about my average highway MPG lately). After filling the AVCS hole, I got 26.14mpg! I know 1.5mpg is not much to brag home about, but on this car I will take every MPG I can grab. Keep in mind this is actual MPG, not gauge MPG which is -5% to 15% inaccurate!

I pulled it off while I was fitting an STI downpipe and playing around with disconnecting the wastegate for highway runs. Sure, as long as the couple is named Subaru, Nissan, Toyota, or Honda, I don't do that domestic or hella flush stuff That's why I tightened it only after the TMIC was installed, figured it would be a pain to get the angle right otherwise. Just got back from a 1k mile trip, car got between 24.5 to high 27mpg, but I was driving up and down the mountains on 81. I did play with the tune a little bit, adding some AVCS degrees seemed to have helped, but it's a little inconclusive since mountains kill a good comparison. On another news I tried Valvoline synthetic blend, and I think the car ate it up more then full synthetic. Will check the levels when I get home, looks like Rotela will be going in sooner then later.

PCV Valve replacement should take about 5 minutes on most cars, sadly that's not the case on turbo Subaru's. Set aside about an hour... It's hidden under the intercooler and intake manifold http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/PCV%20Valve/CIMG0469.jpg http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/PCV%20Valve/CIMG0470.jpg Unplug all of the intercooler parts http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/PCV%20Valve/CIMG0471.jpg http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/PCV%20Valve/CIMG0474.jpg http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/PCV%20Valve/CIMG0476.jpg After the IC is out you will gain access to the PCV valve assembly http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/PCV%20Valve/CIMG0479.jpg Unplug the intake manifold end http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/PCV%20Valve/CIMG0481.jpg And start undoing the pesky unique clamps that are impossible to put back on. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/PCV%20Valve/CIMG0485.jpg PCV valve out, notice the white goo, the whole valve is covered in it, which caused the valve to stick open/closed. Not 100% sure on what causes the white goo, someone said that it might be from water evaporating from too much city driving. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/PCV%20Valve/CIMG0487.jpg http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/PCV%20Valve/CIMG0486.jpg Engine side looked mostly clean http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/PCV%20Valve/CIMG0488.jpg Got a new PCV valve from eBay, this one is for the Forester XT, it was $10 shipped so hard to beat. Aftermarket metal valve only (no plastic assembly) is $12! Subaru OEM parts are VERY well priced. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/PCV%20Valve/CIMG0489.jpg Here is the clips and how they should work, good luck getting them to work... http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/PCV%20Valve/CIMG0490.jpg New valve installed http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/PCV%20Valve/CIMG0493.jpg I gave up trying to reuse the two clamps and just used zip ties. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/PCV%20Valve/CIMG0494.jpg EDIT: Finally got the Click-R Type Pliers and reclamped it http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/PCV%20Valve/CIMG1163.jpg http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/PCV%20Valve/CIMG1189.jpg Finally installed everything and tightened all of the intercooler clamps down. I noticed the throttle body one was rather too loose. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/PCV%20Valve/CIMG0496.jpg

Not anytime soon unless my turbo blows. I do have a VF39 just in case...

Glad to help, I'll be taking some of the posts and making dedicated how to's in a bit

It was also under 30*F so that could be why too. Once it gets a little warmer I do plan on further overhauling things. I can see why bolts would make it easier to align indeed, with the back of the turbo bolts (under downpipe) where bolts harder to get in?

Yup will probably do that when I pull the turbo. I tried to pull the hose off the line, but it was pretty rock solid, thus had to fight with the worm clamp to get it on and tightened.

Swaybar Endlinks 8mm bolts didn't hold up, they weren't long enough thus lock nuts stripped off. Drilled it out to 10mm and used longer bolts http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Suspension/Swaybar/Front-Endlinks/CIMG0407.JPG?m=1390965341 http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Suspension/Swaybar/Front-Endlinks/CIMG0408.JPG?m=1390965337 Turbo Oil Drain While I had the downpipe off, I was able to look for where my oil leak was coming from. Think I found it, turbo oil drain. The stock clip was barely clamping the hose. http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Engine/Turbo/Lines/Turbodrain001.JPG?m=1390965301 Reinforced it with a worm clamp http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Engine/Turbo/Lines/Turbodrain002.JPG?m=1390965301