covertrussian

Been meaning to do this for a while, but my other car was occupying this sensor. Once I sold it I finally could use it on the Legacy. First, the easiest part if your downpipe has a bunch already... http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Wideband/CIMG1252.jpg~original UEGO has two main wires, one that comes from the O2 sensor and second one is the power delivery + serial out put wire (which sadly you have to wire in yourself). I did this a long time ago so will dig up the steps on how to add serial cable later. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Wideband/CIMG1253.jpg~original I like to use quick disconnects, especially when I tend to move sensors around different cars often. I also like using the fuse splitters, got sick and tired of splicing and re-splicing in car wires. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Wideband/CIMG1258.jpg~original Next thing I like to do is use different ends for power and ground wires, in this case I ended up using different plugs. This will help you avoid plugging in a positive wire into a negative wire (note sensor end is show that's why you see male and female connections). http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Wideband/CIMG1283.jpg~original For ground wire I like to use ECU ground, it keeps readings consistent with what the ECU would see. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Wideband/CIMG1289.jpg~original For power I tapped into the least useful fuse I could find, 10A LAMP IG http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Wideband/CIMG1295.jpg~original UEGO comes with a bunch of wires, have to tuck it under the radio http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Wideband/CIMG1282.jpg~original Wired in the gauge and tested it before putting it all together http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Wideband/CIMG1285.jpg~original http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Wideband/CIMG1296.jpg~original Heat shield fits well with the wideband in place http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Wideband/CIMG1340.jpg~original Now here is why you want a wideband over the stock sensor. Stock sensor doesn't read below 11 AFR, wideband is showing it gets as rich as 10.5:1 afr! http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Wideband/WBOStockvsUEGO.png~original

Finally installed the gauges, still need to find a better way to hold them in place though. Moved the radio down to the lower din to make room for the gauges, they refused to fit under the radio. But with some http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/CIMG1254.jpg~original http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/CIMG1255.jpg~original Hated to do this, but only spot I really found to run the wires through. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/CIMG1272.jpg~original http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/CIMG1273.jpg~original For boost gauge I tapped into the stock MAP sensor's line. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Boost/CIMG1305.jpg~original http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Boost/CIMG1308.jpg~original http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Boost/CIMG1307.jpg~original UPDATE: Boost gauge feed has been rerouted to the FPR nipple. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Boost/20151110_201426.jpg~original I used one of the bendable grabbing snakes to pull the wires through and got them in the center console http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/CIMG1275.jpg~original http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/CIMG1277.jpg~original Next, clean em up, looks stock (minus the reflashing cable) http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/CIMG1279.jpg~original http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/CIMG1280.jpg~original All in place, the bezel no longer fits sadly, will need to figure something out. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/CIMG1303.jpg~original http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/CIMG1300.jpg~original

Not yet, it's such a pita to get the right PVC adapters for this. I probably should though before digging into injectors. If I do new injectors I plan on doing an inline fuel filter right before hand, so that new ones don't get clogged...

Continued from Part 1 Another thing to note is, the STI inlet's entrance is slightly smaller then stock, you need to get it tightened well not to leak. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258344&stc=1&d=1510888728 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258345&stc=1&d=1510888728 STI inlet tends to rub against the PS pump too, need to put something there to prevent damage to the inlet. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258347&stc=1&d=1510888728 Time to put everything back together, this sensor was under the manifold on the bracket we discarded, just shove it back under the manifold. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258346&stc=1&d=1510888728 Now the fun begins with figuring out vacuum hoses. Since Perrin inlet, and just about all decent aftermarket ones don't have a PCV hose spot, you need to tee it into the valve cover breather hose. Now Perring suggests you tee it into the left head's breather, I wanted it to be closer to the manifold. I attached a 5/8" 90* premolded hose and ran it to the front and teed it into the valve cover breather hose. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258348&stc=1&d=1510888728 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258349&stc=1&d=1510888728 Used another 90* 5/8" premolded hose from my Nissan's, as for the 90* brass bard, I used a 1/2" to 3/4" PEX pipe barb. The EVAP hose (one connected straight into inlet without elbow) is a 1/2" to 3/8" barb adapter (they don't sell 90* elbows at Lowes/Home Depot sadly) http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258350&stc=1&d=1510888728 Next you need to pull the metal plug out of the PCV "leak detector", and put it in the plug and tape it off. Alternatively you should be able to disable the CEL with a retune. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258351&stc=1&d=1510888728 Added some more clamps and ziptied the MAP senor to make sure it didn't dangle around. This is temporary for me, but will work good enough for a bit. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258352&stc=1&d=1510888728 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258353&stc=1&d=1510888728 Power wise the gains seem negligible and could be just typical in between day run difference, but seat of pants did feel the torque. But what you should pay attention to is the AFR's, with the inlet no longer having a vacuum leak AFR's dipped down to 10.5 on the graph. That's stupid rich! http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258354&stc=1&d=1510888728

Stock turbo inlets suck, they are horrible for flow and tend to rip very easily causing vacuum leaks. Due to vacuum hose location I wouldn't suggest buying an STI inlet if you have a LGT version available, but with hard inlets you only have the STI's style available. I personally got the Perrin STI/FXT/WRX2.0 inlet very cheap (had a tear that needed to be fixed), that's why I ended up using it. In the future I plan on making a custom LGT one though. First remove the intake elbow http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258324&stc=1&d=1510888312 Then unbolt and remove the MAP, WG solenoid, and unbolt the bracket. Shown is the WG solenoid and hose routing (will come in useful later). http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258325&stc=1&d=1510888312 More vacuum hoses to remember, bottom most one is the EVAP canister one. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258326&stc=1&d=1510888312 Remove them all, Valve cover breather is the big 5/8" hose still attached http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258327&stc=1&d=1510888312 Next unbolt the valve cover breather tube, removing the left heads hose helps you get it out of the way http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258328&stc=1&d=1510888312 Unbolt the BPV recirculation hose, this will help a lot to remove it from inlet, and will help to reinstall. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258329&stc=1&d=1510888312 Remove PCV valve cover breather 5/8" hose http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258331&stc=1&d=1510888312 Pull the wireloom back to expose the PCV "leak detector", this is the last vacuum hose on the stock inlet. It's a little tricky to remove the plastic PCV "leak detector", the pigtail is what locks the leak detector in place. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258330&stc=1&d=1510888312 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258332&stc=1&d=1510888312 This will expose the BPV clap, tricky one to remove. You will need to use pliers and pull on the hose to wiggle it out. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258333&stc=1&d=1510888312 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258334&stc=1&d=1510888312 Unbolt the inlet from the turbo and finally you can pull the stock inlet out. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258335&stc=1&d=1510888312 I dunno why people complain about room, plenty of room here for 3" pipe (I tested with a spare elbow I had) http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258336&stc=1&d=1510888312 Stock vs STI Perrin, you can see the vacuum line difference. The tape you see on it is me fixing a rip from previous owner. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258337&stc=1&d=1510888312 Slip the new inlet in, not that difficult at all http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258339&stc=1&d=1510888312 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258340&stc=1&d=1510888312 Stock sensor bracket will no longer fit, remove all of the sensors from it and put it in your left over Legacy parts bin. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258338&stc=1&d=1510888312 I had a hard time trying to attach the BPV hose back, turns out the fitting is bigger then stock so it requires some elbow grease to get it in. I found it easier to remove the inlet and insert the pipe into the BPV hose then insert it into the inlet. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258341&stc=1&d=1510888312 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258342&stc=1&d=1510888312 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258343&stc=1&d=1510888312 Continued to part 2

Haha indeed, it was so easy it even surprised me. I'm starting to get into more and more complex stuff and makes me miss the easy mods . Inlet install pictures coming soon.

I almost wanna say, get them replaced and charge back Subaru since recall allows for that. Or drive your car until it starts leaking then take it in... SS lines wont work, these are the hard lines that run under the car to the front.

Took mine in to get it checked out today WQK-47, Subaru deemed my lines not damaged enough to replace... notice that you can still see the line splitting even after wax. Before: http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256529&stc=1&d=1507603526 After: http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256530&stc=1&d=1507603526 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256531&stc=1&d=1507603526 2017 Update: the lines look way worse even after Subaru's wax "fix". http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=257121&stc=1&d=1508820325 I ended up replacing the lines with Nickle-Copper Tubing. Full post on rear line replacement can be found here. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=257133&stc=1&d=1508820401

Very true, which means that running a 3" pipe would reduce the amount of inlet vacuum, which means more crank pressure, but should result in less oil consumption. As for high A learning, here is another thread pointing to injectors (mine hit 12% just after 15 miles post reflash). Looks like I need to swap in my other injectors sooner then later. If they are clogged that means I need to get a fuel filter in there too since stock one if failing to do it's job.

What happens if they actually break then post "fix"? Are they still liable to cover them or will they just not bother?

Also measured my K&N typhoon and it's 2.75", going 2.5" would probably be a little small, this is why I'm gonna hold off on doing the custom intake until I can source the offset 3" coupler. Was under the rear of the car looking at how to ground the rear differential to the body, and noticed my brake lines.... needless to say I scheduled the recall appointment with my dealership tomorrow. Lets take bets on them just spraying it instead of replacing the lines... http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Brakes/Lines/CIMG1352.jpg~original

You would be surprised how much vacuum a turbo inlet will pull (enough to cause silicon to collapse at higher boost levels). Back in the day on my Nissan I was working on rerouting the crank & VC breathers and left them atmosphered. Well it didn't work, the main reason I knew it didn't work is, I noticed my engine bay was covered in oil after one wot run. After tracing it down I saw that it was coming from the valve cover gaskets. Reconnected everything to the turbo inlet and all went back to normal. The little T28 (~VF40 size) turbo was pulling hard enough to avoid crank overpressure. Now on my Nissan the PCV valve is going directly to the manifold and is not teed into the inlet (it's ontop of the valve cover), but crank & VC breathers get combined into one line and are sent to the inlet. I am contemplating on possibly teeing the PCV valve to provide it constant turbo vacuum, might help with reducing crank pressure a little . Anyway I checked the Perrin that I have (part 041407), even though it looks like it's a WRX one I might be able to use it. I'm trying to get the car vacuum leak free for next weekend (got 500+ mile trip ahead of me). After I get back when I'm bored I probably will continue with custom making one.

Actually you don't need those if you have the right tune/setup. If your blow through (like that guy), you have the BOV/BPV before the MAF so you can atmosphere it all day. BUT I personally don't like this even on blow through cars, the recirculated air helps keep the turbo spooling between shifts + it cools the intake charge (if your recircing post intercooler). Valve breathers can also be vented to atmoshpere, but they are useful to keep. Intake will create vacuum which helps remove blow by. More blow by = more crank pressure = harder for pistons to move around. As for PCV/Crankcase vent, most inlets don't have this fitting and require you to cap it off or to tee into valve cover breathers. I personally was against teeing into the crankcase breather (sharing vacuum = not enough to go around), but seeing Ross Wilson's post I'm more for it. In his post he talks about how moving PCV mount to be further from the turbo greatly reduces how much oil gets sucked in. Basically by moving it back your reducing the amount of vacuum the PCV lines will see, which will have less power to suck in oil, but I do wonder if crankcase pressure goes up with this... Back to the inlets, there are only two options Agency Power and AMR. Both will run you up around $250-300, both are meant for STI manifolds thus will not easily fit on LGT plastic manifolds. I think I can do this for under $100, plus it does sound complicated which means fun to me. My goal is to make it as stock fitting as possible, I don't want to eliminate much (mainly PCV). Though I am contemplating on using a T for Wastegate solenoid and EVAP (charcoal canister vapor feed), but once again the concern is not enough vacuum could be detrimental.

Found this diy inlet thread, pretty much what I'm thinking to do. The real question is, should I waste time with 3" aluminum elbow or just do a 2.5" aluminum elbow? Since turbo inlet is only 2.4" I almost don't want to bother with 3" because of the fitment. Plus 3" will need the offset coupler, while 2.5" be fine with a bendable hump coupler. Finding aluminum nipples is the hardest part, plus welding them on (though brazing would work fine in this case). If I can't find aluminum nipples then will have to resort to brass barbs and jbweld, which honestly has worked well enough on my Nissan's post turbo cold pipe.

If I didn't have a 16g already... though I do have a GT28r that I could use, though I would think it's a little small for 2.5l. It made me 270whp on my fwd Nissan though.

Did a lot of highway miles this weekend, played a little more with AVCS too. Tried out AVCS being at 10* and 5* at highway speeds. Surprisingly enough AVCS 5* got me 28mpg too, 10 got me 25ish with some city miles and hard driving. What I'm finding is doing any city miles or hard driving the car really hurts the highway averages. That's definitely something in the the factory tune, AFR's are pretty rich at 10.8-11, but still looking at other areas. My learning A was equal to 14%, which is really high. I think my inlet is actually on it's last leg. I started looking at installing the perrin that I have, but it turns out to be a STI one, so I probably will end up using it on my FXT. I'm really torn on which way to go with the inlet though. On principal I hate silicon ones, they are overpriced, collapse and suck at airflow compared to a mandrel bent intake. Looks like AMR or Agency Power is the way to go with those, they are around $250-300 and are really for STI's (nipples point up and will hit manifold). This is why I'm starting to consider just making my own. I think I have some left over 2.5" elbows from my intercooler pipes...

I had the bright idea of looking up other cars that use DW65c 9-652-1008, and low and behold we have the Pontiac GTO. Turns out they have a pretty much identical setup to what we have. GM part number 92146684, Full post http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t37/24UGTOinFL/Fuel%20System/IMAG0211.jpg http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t37/24UGTOinFL/Fuel%20System/IMAG0212.jpg From what I'm reading GM switched to this design a while ago on their trucks. Looks like Subaru decided to get in on that action. This now explains on why there is a secondary connection that is not used by us...

Not in this case, the third line is for the jet pump fuel feed, which tees into the fuel return (from fuel rail) and drains into the plastic fuel pump tub. Charcoal canister has a different line, that feeds fuel vapors from tank to it, and then the vapors/fuel from charcoal canister gets sucked into the turbo inlet. From what I can tell, maybe Subaru might have wanted to feed the fuel in parallel instead of in serial. Otherwise I don't see why they would have not just molded it shut from the get go. Here is the metal from the inside, it looks like it pushes against the plastic plug and against the filter. I thought it was there to push the filter down, but it was so flimsy I removed it (in picture I posted earlier) http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Fuel%20Pump/CIMG1377.jpg~original It is nylon, also it looks to be glued/and melted shut the way it is. I don't think you will be able to really put it back together unless you cut it with a saw.

Looks like the secondary plug is actually a plug and nothing more!!! http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Fuel%20Pump/CIMG1361.jpg~original Here is the secondary port in question, yes the oring is that deformed... this fuel pump was probably leaking fuel pressure because of this... http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Fuel%20Pump/CIMG1360.jpg~original http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Fuel%20Pump/CIMG1366.jpg~original Sadly to get to the filter I had to really destroy the top cover. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Fuel%20Pump/CIMG1371.jpg~original Here's the filter, typical paper element. This is a 30k mile filter btw... http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Fuel%20Pump/CIMG1375.jpg~original Plug in place http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Fuel%20Pump/CIMG1378.jpg~original Sadly there is also not much working room, for wiring the fuel pump directly to the feed line. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Fuel%20Pump/CIMG1383.jpg~original

Install is stupid simple, just remove the intercooler and you will see infamous blue tee. Even with couplers on it the hoses still come loose if you pull on them. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Vac%20Hoses/CIMG1344.jpg Blue plastic tee vs Turkeylord's tee, he is nice enough to give you really good quality zip ties too. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Vac%20Hoses/CIMG1346.jpg I installed the tee without the clamps on and needed to remove it, the barbs held so well that the clamped end came off the manifold. I opted to use my clamps instead of zip ties, most people will never have to touch it again so zip ties are good enough. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Vac%20Hoses/CIMG1348.jpg

Shipping was freaking fast Turkeylord! Got it installed as soon as it arrived today. Install is stupid simple, just remove the intercooler and you will see infamous blue tee. Even with couplers on it the hoses still come loose if you pull on them. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Vac%20Hoses/CIMG1344.jpg Blue plastic tee vs Turkeylord's tee, he is nice enough to give you really good quality zip ties too. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Vac%20Hoses/CIMG1346.jpg I installed the tee without the clamps on and needed to remove it, the barbs held so well that the clamped end came off the manifold. I opted to use my clamps instead of zip ties, most people will never have to touch it again so zip ties are good enough. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Vac%20Hoses/CIMG1348.jpg

All turbo cars MUST have barbed and clamped connections. Not sure why Subaru didn't barb them, the aluminum EJ257 manifold has barbed connections, they took a few steps back with plastic ones...

Thank you sir, much appreciated! I will post the install pics one I get them in . Thanks, glad to help . It's always nice to know that the extra time it takes to take pics and upload them is not wasted

Looks like Forester uses a blue tee too, so will definitely take you up on this awesome offer .

Yeah I should probably invest in some tee's from Mr. Turkeylord... gotta see if my forester uses the same blue tee so that I could buy a set right of way.