covertrussian

Found out why the car was running sluggish after replacing the TB gasket, I apparently knocked loose the blue tee at the manifold level. To make sure that doesn't happen again clamped it all down, not sure why Subaru didn't do this from the beginning... http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261034&stc=1&d=1516575845 That woke the car back up and made it feel nice and torque again! Picked up a newer intercooler from a local Subaru friend too. My stock one was starting to separate and was leaking oil. Plus the deer guts got splattered over my stock one/bent some fins. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261037&stc=1&d=1516575845 Also it replaced my jbwelded blow off valve... http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261036&stc=1&d=1516575845 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261038&stc=1&d=1516575845 100k mile one: http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261035&stc=1&d=1516575845 30k mile one: http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261039&stc=1&d=1516575845 With all of this leak fixing I wanted to test a stockish tune (minus some WG Duty cycle to account for catless DP) on the highway. Put back the stock AVCS table (with the "emissions hole") and stock Drive by wire table and went out to get some dinner with the wife. Went from AVCS 15* map: http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261041&stc=1&d=1516575845 To this map: http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261040&stc=1&d=1516575845 First thing I noticed is cruise control wasn't as aggressive, maybe this is why Subaru decided to set the AVCS to 0, so that the car would make less torque thus not as aggressive on the highway? This got me 28.6mpg, which impressed me for stock AVCS map, but with STG 2 downpipe all of my previous AVCS testing is negated due to different back pressures, perhaps a free flowing setup doesn't like as much AVCS advance? Learning view for A is still up to 10 though, RallyMachine mentioned that injectors could be clogged up, I should have some spare STi yellow's laying around from the Nissan that I just sold, so will probably install them tomorrow.

The tires that came on my car had this nice wear on them from wont front LCA bushings, I ignored the noise they made until I caught an exacto knife blade in one, at that point it was time for new tires. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Tires/20140309_183120.jpg I wanted to switch from stock 215/45/17's because the odometer was off by 1.5%, by my calculations 225/45/17's would get it very close to being 0% off. I ordered Cooper Zeon RS3-A's in 225/45/17 from Discount Tire Direct for $408 shipped, they had nice rebates going on for 4th of July. After rebates these tires set me back $288, or $72/tire, which is pretty respectable for 17's. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Tires/20140707_141714.jpg I got a spare set of rims for these, previous owner had them painted white, but for a red car I figured gunmetal would look better. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Tires/CIMG1135.jpg~original http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Tires/CIMG1133.jpg~original As for wheel gaps, here is the pics that I got, sorry not the best ones of stock tires. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Tires/CIMG1111.jpg~original http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Tires/CIMG1331.jpg~original http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Tires/CIMG1113.jpg~original http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Tires/CIMG1329.jpg~original

Since this section doesn't let me upload .hex/.bin's I uploaded them to Romraider forums. The changes are described below in detail, so you can make them yourself, or you can just download the Stage 0 tunes from Romraider thread. ---------------------------------------- These maps are meant for those that want to remain stock but would like a safer tune and get better gas mileage. They only change a few tables, do not increase boost, but torque should go up since they do remove leanness. These tunes are for 05 5MT's (A2WC522N), but they should work on all 05-06 LGT's 5MT and AT, just manually copy the changes over. Safety Changes These tunes fix the two major flaws with the stock Tunes... Closed to Open Loop Delay - Causes the car to lean out in boost for 1k rpm, this tune zeroes out the delay to be 0. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261118&stc=1&d=1516581431 Timing Compensation Per Cylinder - Stock tune adds 2.11* for cylinder two and four, this tune zeroes out all compensation tables. Stock map: http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261119&stc=1&d=1516581431 New map: http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261120&stc=1&d=1516581431 AVCS Changes All of these tunes already have CL to OL Delay disabled and Timing Compensation zeroed out, choose your tune based on which ever AVCS map you feel like running. I personally made these with catless up pipe already in place, your gas mileage gains may vary with the restrictive catted up pipe. I don't suggest running the 15* AVCS map on catted up pipe cars, even 10* might be pushing it so do watch your learning views! Stock Map - For catted up pipe stock setups My Personal MPG: 24.6mpg Highway http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261115&stc=1&d=1516581431 AVCS 10 Map - For catless up pipes, but should be safe for catted up pipes too. My Personal MPG: 26.1mpg (+1.5mpg) Highway http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261116&stc=1&d=1516581431 AVCS 15 Map - For catless up pipes, I don't suggest this for catted up pipes, run at your own risk My Personal MPG: 28.1mpg (+3.5mpg) Highway http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=261117&stc=1&d=1516581431

Update on the inlet, I wanted to patch it up temporarily, since I do have a silicon inlet that I will use eventually. Looked like a small rip at first http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Intake/Stock%20Inlet/CIMG1261.jpg~original But then saw that it's ripped a good 1", but it's hard to see in this image http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Intake/Stock%20Inlet/CIMG1264.jpg~original Did my best, had to rotate the clamp http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Intake/Stock%20Inlet/CIMG1269.jpg~original Added some window weld to help it stay closed ha. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Intake/Stock%20Inlet/CIMG1270.jpg~original Like I said this is just a temp fix, I wanted to see if I can lower the learning A. I will be replacing it as a whole soon, just not ready yet (I try not to change too many variables between highway MPG tests). Anyway here is a learning view from 130 mile trip. Looks like I screwed up installing the TB gasket because I definitely felt tq loss and much slower boost buildup after doing the TB gasket, maybe I left a hose unplugged? I still got 28.6mpg, even with learning A indicating an airleak. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Throttle%20Body/0821_130mHwayv245.jpg~original

That game with my AC manifold set, your AC guy is correct though. The proper answer is "it depends". I used to rely on pressures only and I've overfilled systems (to where overpressure valve would engage). I honestly try to go by OZ, but since my cans are 12oz each, it's really hard to properly measure after the first can haha. My best suggestion is, fill on a hot day (90*F or hotter), use a vent temp gauge, and use the least amount of PSI on high side to get you to your desired temp. The higher the pressure the harder your compressor works = more drag on crank. I personally like R12 for that reason or Propane, propane runs at low pressures like R12 ,but it's Not legal in a lot of states since it's flammable.

I accidentally punctured the stock condenser while drilling out the broken hood stick holder. Since Subaru decided to weld the dryer to the condenser, a used condenser is out of the question (dryer needs to be replaced every time the system is opened because moisture gets in). I went with an aftermarket one since TYC stuff is generally very good. I picked up TYC 3314 for $50 shipped on eBay (usually they are around $100).. Need to pull the grill to get to the condenser mounts. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/General/AC%20Condenser/CIMG1214.jpg~original The bigger hose is a pain to get to with it in place, raised it up for easier access http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/General/AC%20Condenser/CIMG1217.jpg~original Here's my carnage http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/General/AC%20Condenser/CIMG1218.jpg~original TYC vs stock one http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/General/AC%20Condenser/CIMG1219.jpg~original TYC one has bolt on legs while stock one are cast http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/General/AC%20Condenser/CIMG1221.jpg~original Stock one on top, TYC one is almost better quality then stock. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/General/AC%20Condenser/CIMG1222.jpg~original http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/General/AC%20Condenser/CIMG1223.jpg~original It's a good idea to replace the oring's while your in there http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/General/AC%20Condenser/CIMG1225.jpg~original I removed the old condenser without removing the radiator or fans, this doesn't give you much room, so gotta be careful when installing the new core. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/General/AC%20Condenser/CIMG1226.jpg~original Bolting the bigger hose while it's out. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/General/AC%20Condenser/CIMG1227.jpg~original The little line can only be bolted up while it's in place (aluminum line that doesn't have any flexible sections). http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/General/AC%20Condenser/CIMG1230.jpg~original TYC is nice to provide new brackets, mine were rusty so this is welcome http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/General/AC%20Condenser/CIMG1233.jpg~original Finished with the install, now you need to vacuum the system. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/General/AC%20Condenser/CIMG1234.jpg~original Since you had to have the condenser open for a few seconds moisture and air got in, thus you want to vacuum the system out as soon as possible before the dryer absorbs the moisture. This is where you either have to take it to a shop or spend the money on the right tools. You need a AC manifold that lets you open the low and high pressure sides and a vacuum pump. They are about $100 each depends on how high quality you want to go, for me it's long paid for itself. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/General/AC%20Condenser/CIMG1238.jpg~original http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/General/AC%20Condenser/CIMG1241.jpg~original Hook up the high and low pressure hoses http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/General/AC%20Condenser/CIMG1239.jpg~original http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/General/AC%20Condenser/CIMG1240.jpg~original Vacuum out the system to -29 inHg for at least 30 minutes. Since it was a cooler (70*f) night I vacuumed it out for couple hours. At such high vacuum water boils at room temperature, and the vacuum pump sucks the vapor out. You can actually see the vapor coming from the vacuum pump for the first few minutes. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/General/AC%20Condenser/CIMG1243.jpg~original Then all you have to do is refill the system with refrigerant and oil. Here is a little approx pressures you should have based on ambient temperatures. My best suggestion is, fill on a hot day (90*F or hotter), use a vent temp gauge, and use the least amount of PSI on high side to get you to your desired temp. The higher the pressure the harder your compressor works = more drag on crank. Usually most R134 cars don't get below 50*F vent temps, once you hit that temp don't try to add more refrigerant thinking it will get colder. Always go by the oz amount found on a sticker in the bay, don't add more then maximum oz. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/General/AC%20Condenser/CIMG1245.jpg~original Enjoy your ice cold AC!

That picture is a little deceiving. It makes it look like the Delivery and return hoses dump into the jet pump assembly. Looking at the FSM images carefully I noticed that they are just connected to the hard lines that go to the front of the car by the jet pump. Took some screenshots and tailored them excluded cruft. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Fuel%20Pump/FuelTankDesign.png~original http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Fuel%20Pump/FSMDiagram_FuelHoses.png~original Jet pump design http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Fuel%20Pump/FSMJetPump.png~original Just found out that Y return line design is actually off the 04 and older Legacy's, Subaru sucks at updating the FSM with proper information. The 05+ concept might be similar but implementation looks nothing like that.

Where I live it barely rains once a week, but humidity will stay at 90% at those times. Like yesterday as I was replacing my AC condensor, ~75*F but I was sweating/complaining due to the humidity, and sadly couldn't efficiently vacuum out the system/refill it due to the low temperatures.

05 is when they started, but they didn't put filters in them until 06 (I remember seeing a bragging poster at the dealership). I'm not against cabin filters, I have severe spring allergies, usually will resort to inside air (even not ACed) just so that I don't sneeze my brains out all day.

Good info on the fuel lines! As for the jet pump, that was a very interesting system indeed, I saw it in the FSM and was confused why there were two fuel level meters. After seeing the fuel tank design (and drive shaft being in the way) it made more sense. I don't think it's the jet pump, because the side with two holes is post fuel pump, as in under pressure. If it was from Jet pump you would be pumping fuel into the other half of the tank. I'm working on getting my hands on a whole assembly to figure out how it all works.

That's sad and bad at the same time. These cars are just a pain . Yesterday I went to remove the grill and another bolt broke, after an hour of drilling it out, replacement bolt broke too . It's like Subaru learned from the Germans to use the thinnest/weakest bolts. Does your 09 at least make it easy to replace it? I have to take half of the dash apart on an 05 .

Cost and difficulty of replacement is the main thing. Older cars always suggested yearly fuel filter replacements, all of the sudden Subaru makes a magical metalic filter that never needs to be replaced right? Not, they used paper that deteriorates with age. Another problem is we don't run 100% gas anymore, e85 is known to clean out your tank & lines and deposit all of the crap into your fuel filter, but it's also hydroscopic (gathers water) and with water the paper elements break apart and clogs your injectors. e10 is not as bad, but still overtime can have the same effect.

Posted on NASIOC since there are a ton of people there with newer WRX's with the same filter. To reiterate on two ideas on how to solve this. First install Inline filter in engine bay then... 1. Gut the filter, reglue the lid and put it all back together. Issues: Glue can get undone = loss of fuel pressure big empty space = requires a lot more power from fuel pump to pump that much volume of fuel 2. Run a fuel hose from the pump to the feedneck. Issues: There seems to be two exists on the stock assembly not sure why and FSM is not useful. I'm trying to get my hands on a stock assembly to see how it works.

Thanks Subaru for making something usually very simple to be overly complicated. I'm gonna have to dig through the fsm to find a way to bypass the stock filter.

We are not talking about replacing the prepump sock, we are talking about the post pump one. Seeing how the fuel pump is in this thread, I think I might be able to bypass the factory filter altogether...

It's $75 just for the filter, or is that the whole assembly? EDIT: I'll be darned, part #42072AG16A $75

Sweet, definitely take some pics and post them here as you mock with it, I'm curious myself too. I'm worried that getting rid of the filter will cause flow & pressure issues due to big open space.

I'm wanting to do this myself. One of the added bonuses is more fuel near fuel rail (since extra is stored in the old styled fuel filter), this could help reduce random leanness. I guess I'll plan on doing that around the time I do my fuel pump. You would want to bypass the filter after the pump, don't touch the one before the bump or you will burn it up. This post shows it best. Make sure to use fuel injection hose ($7 per foot), not fuel hose ($2ish per foot), because fuel hose is meant for less pressurized carburetors.

Roger that, sadly adding another thing to the Common Issues in the first post. I love this car but compared to my 04 Forester XT, I feel like Subaru really forgot about quality in a lot of parts.

I got the car in November, and have been driving it very often (my other 4 cars got neglected majorly ha). We don't have too much salt/snow where I live, but from what I go the car spent some time in IL. To the point where I got the recall notice in the mail about the brake lines even though VA is not on the list. I might sprinkle some oil though to help prevent future rust

Ha agreed, but mine seems to have a little more rust then I've seen another LGT with more miles. Not too happy with it dripping right on injectors pretty much.

Any of you have issues with leaking hood scoop? Every time it rains I find water in two main spots of the engine. Not sure if hoodscoop needs resealing or what Passenger Side: http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/Hoodscoop/20140812_082656.jpg http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/Hoodscoop/20140812_082700.jpg Driver Side: http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/Hoodscoop/20140812_082710.jpg http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/Hoodscoop/20140812_082718.jpg

Figured it's not a bad idea to replace the throttle body gasket, seeing how much IM gaskets helped. The TB seal is $12 at the dealership. Throttle Body Seal Part #: 16175AA331 You can see the gasket tab fairly easily. The oil buildup on the throttle body is a good way to tell that your gasket is leaking. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Throttle%20Body/CIMG1188.jpg Pull the intercooler to gain access to the throttle body http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Throttle%20Body/CIMG1191.jpg With the intercooler out it's a good idea to check on your turbo inlet pipe, I noticed a nice notch in mine, will have to plan on replacing it soon I guess. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Throttle%20Body/CIMG1190.jpg Once you pull the throttle body coupler, you will see 4 bolts that hold the throttle body to the manifold. Unbolt the blow off valve's recirculation hose to gain access to top right bolt. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Throttle%20Body/CIMG1192.jpg Pulled the TB out of the way, it wont go too far because the TB heater hoses are still connected. Definitely has been leaking oil for a while. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Throttle%20Body/CIMG1194.jpg Finally enough access to remove the stock gasket http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Throttle%20Body/CIMG1195.jpg Old gasket on the left, new gasket on the right. As you can see, the stock one is definitely compressed a good bit. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Throttle%20Body/CIMG1196.jpg http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Throttle%20Body/CIMG1200.jpg Install everything in the reverse order and your good to go. For kicks and giggles measured the stock TB, looks like it's a 60mm throttle body. Though it seems a little small for a 2.5L motor. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Throttle%20Body/CIMG1202.jpg http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Throttle%20Body/CIMG1205.jpg

Did a Virtual Dyno yesterday after driving for a bit, slightly past the usual starting point, did 208whp/230wtq. I usually do virtual dyno on fresh reflash (and either set IAM to 1 or, drive couple miles to get it to be 1). Thus it reducing power might because of self learning, but torque is definitely up and you can feel it. I'll do another virtual dyno run after I replace TB gasket and do a fresh reflash. EDIT: Just saw this thread, looks like it might be self learn pulling power back indeed. Though in this run timing was about the same.

Yes sir talking about Intake manifold gaskets with you and VC gaskets with MrTris, gets confusing . I want to see the factory IM gaskets, old version, to compare against. I'm just curious if they shrink overtime or if it's a design issue to begin with, I'm sure it's both though.