evil03mustang

Looking at (test drove) 2005 LGT 5EAT with 180,000 miles. Body good to fair. Timing cover missing bolts so likely had a belt change at some point. Leaking coolant from a couple hose fittings due to who knows what.. rust hole in trunk, trunk lid rusty bottom edge, rear wheel arches starting to go.. Runs very well, transmission shifts normally. Turbo does what it’s supposed to do when it’s supposed to do it. Fancy exhaust drags but that’s to be expected. https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/for/d/evans-city-2005-subaru-legacy-25gt-car/7264076143.html I hope to pull the trigger today, but still open to suggestions. It’s slim pickings right now for AWD stuff under $5k. I could have budgeted higher, but I don’t want the debt.

I discovered the source of my fuel odor, then shut the hood and said "meh."

'06. About to crest 95,000 miles. Waterpump and timing been done. Almost ready for turbo just to ease some oil consumption. not terrible yet, just dont want to have to worry about it. $450 is pretty cheap insurance considering an engine costs a lot more than that. No rust yet.

My '06 LGT is having the stink. My old '96 Impreza did this also. Annoying.

THESE? Implying you are nearby?

not really

Honeywell, but they are manufactured to different specifications than the regular FRAM filters. Ever compare the innards of an STP filter to the innards of a Subaru filter? A blue Subaru filter is like $6 there's no excuse not to run OE. STP is what they GIVE AWAY with cheap oil at wal-mart. You trust your turbo with that?

haha

Mobil 1? No difference between filters????? :eek: Subaru filter has a 23PSI relief spring for a reason. Flows certain GPM for a reason. $.50 STP filter can't possibly meet those specs. Subaru Filter is like $6. Why would you buy something else?

Just one? :eek: You lucky dawg!!! I'd stop using those crap STP filters and buy Subaru. Just saying.

Up to 81,xxx. It's been *almost* 1 year and *just over* 20,000 miles. Far less than I usually drive a car.

sounds like a plan.

This one's starting to get noisy.

Yeah... a Pittsburgh meet and a Philly meet.... Driving 400 miles in a shot scares me.....

Yeah, not worth the frustration and unreliability. Just spend the $30 and sleep easier. I'm not sure what the reason is, but the Subaru antifreeze is a real deep green. Generic isn't. If it's not the same color, it's not the same formulation. I don't trust anything that wasn't engineered to work in this engine (with the exception of oil). Distilled. I was incorrect about deionized. The crank pulley holder tool would most certainly be less disaster-prone than a screwdriver. Then again, a whole lot of folks use the screwdriver method. I prefer to keep all of the applied torques at the front of the crank instead of going thorough it. That's just me though.

I must have read incorrectly somewhere about that then. My bad.

A couple of things. Order the Gates timing belt/roller/tensioner kit from Amazon. Buy the water pump, gasket, thermostat and thermostat gasket from Subaru. AutoZone and Advance are for buying shop towels and gojo when they go on sale. And brake cleaner. Can't beat those 2 for 1 deals. Buy ONLY Subaru antifreeze. Use ONLY distilled or deionized water with it. If you can borrow the cam holder tools and the crank pulley holder tool, do that. The whole job gets a LOT EASIER.

Looks like it's open to interpretation. Personally, I bet a pair of monopoly dice (or scrabble letters... or dominos...) and a strong rubber band would do it just as well.... As long as the concept of what is being attempted is actually achieved, anything could work really. All it has to do is keep them from rotating.

I dig. I dig A LOT.

Does the 6mt center diff have the same play-doh snap ring that holds it together? If it has a stronger snap ring or a better design, then yes, the whole transmission is stronger as a result. Mine blowed up because of that stupid thing. The one I pulled out will be rebuilt with better parts, and will be for sale in the coming months. Actually, scratch that... the one I pulled out will be reinstalled with a new clutch into my car, and the Spec.B trans that I got from pitcrew will be up for sale in a few months. If I were to sell the rebuilt one, I'd have to ask too much for it. The pitcrew tranny would be cheaper because all I have into it besides what I paid him is about $50 in unicorn blood gear oil.

That's computer generated and you know it. It's a hoax. The 5mt is bombproof.

I backed up my driveway and the center diff locking ring popped out of its groove. Carnage ensued. We need stronger center diff locking rings... ...and center diff bearings that last longer than 6 months before pitting and eating themselves even with $200 worth of redline gear oil keeping them lubed.

Pissing contest? I've ONLY ever driven a manual transmission car. TWENTY YEARS. 20. TWO-OH. This one's the first I've ever broken. That makes it the weak one, and no I have never babied a single vehicle. Then again, this IS the first turbo car. Still, 250chp? That shouldn't be enough to break a trans. I say they should find a better way to keep the guts in the center diff. That flimsy locking ring is a f***ing joke. If not for that I'd have been fine.

If you can't rev to 6k and sidestep the clutch, it's weak.

Launch twice. Guaranteed to break. Pretty flimsy, in my book.