evil03mustang

Drove the balls off it. Hauled a couple kegs. Might have messed up a tail light socket with said keg. Oops. Still haven’t put a whole 3000 miles on it since I bought it in March.. it gets driven 45 miles to work Monday and just sits there all week till I get back Friday, for the most part. I did lightly kick the front bumper cover to snap it back into place. Apparently it wants to leave the car above 120mph. Who knew? [emoji2369] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What is an svxdc harness? Have you done a write up? I’m currently using a bt>fm thing and the static is driving me nuts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Timing belt and water pump went on without any issues. Stupid me forgot the crank bolt is 7/8 and not 19mm. Whatever. Probably need new hoses soon, but other than that it’s business as usual. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

UPS delivered an early birthday present for me today.. I also got a cam pulley holder and a new 19mm socket for good measure. The Aisin kit didn’t include a timing belt kickback guard spacer thing, so I’ll have to dig around for the one I got with my gates kit from the last car... the bearings are all genuine koyo and nsk... Fkn better be, this kit wasn’t cheap. Had my wife pick up a new Subaru thermostat and water pump gasket from the stealership... $47 for a freaking thermostat!?!?!??!??!!! Whatever... hey at least the radiator won’t fight me when I pull it out tomorrow... it’s only been in the car a month. [emoji51] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Tires date code is q4 2019, Goodyear eagle RSA. 7/32 tread or better. Suspension is all original, car is 05 LGTL 5EAT, 182,000 miles. Suspension bushings have been replaced. Suspension passes the “does anything need replaced for an alignment?” Test. I’m thinking the struts are just past their life expectancy. I have access to specB parts... might as well just do it? I need somebody to tell me how different it feels. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sooo... car feels really floaty and weird above 110mph. Shocks? The ‘06 didn’t do that. Should I just swap in specB struts and call it a day? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It would be awesome if I could start my car and sit in it while in park, in my driveway and the seatbelt chime wasn’t dinging endlessly. No other vehicle I have ever owned has done this. It drives me insane. What’s even worse is because it’s a turbo and turbos don’t like cold oil, I usually sit and wait several minutes before I even back out of my parking spot.. there’s no point in wearing my seatbelt while stationary. Most other vehicles have to either be in drive or going over 5mph before the reminder goes nuts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bought a set of used, slightly curb rashed OE 5-spoke wheels with a decent set of tires on them. Replaced the plastic trim piece that goes around the trunk latch. Bought a replacement sunroof switch/map light console.. dealer said mine was messed up and the passenger side airbag wouldn’t work without it. :shrug: Now I just need to get these winter tires off. Might have to wait till Wednesday. [emoji853] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What years do these fit? Edit: damn I’m dumb. Pondering this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think I had it.. felt like my skin was crawling and everything hurt for a few days, then I couldn’t taste or smell anything. Quarantined for 2 weeks in my work truck (2019 freightliner cascadia 126 sleeper) went home 15th day (Christmas Day) Still having issues with smell and taste, but it’s getting better. 10/10 don’t recommend. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok so since my ‘06 DIAF, I’ve owned a Chrysler 200, an OB a Grand Am, a TT Flex and an NA Flex. Comparison time. 200: less traction. No AWD. V6.. ecu strangles power at higher speeds. Handles like a firm boat. OK, but not great. Problems: passenger side HVAC had mind of its own. Overheated once due to wonky thermostat. ‘97 OB: tank. Slow, but not painfully slow. Rusty... like... rear suspension fell off while on a lift. 10/10 would buy another one, sans rust. ‘04 grand am 3.4l v6: Peppy. Durable until the front k-member disintegrated from rust. Off-idle torque enviable. Handling... boaty but entertaining. Brakes would rust solid if left parked longer than a week. AC and heat always worked EXTREMELY well. Might find another as a beater... sans rust. ‘14 TT Flex: fast. Like... scary fast for something that heavy and brick-shaped. Handled amazingly well for something that big. Like.. would SERIOUSLY boogie when needed. Wife totaled it 3 weeks after purchase. Very sad. Want another. Problems: didn’t own it long enough to have any. The radar cruise was dumb in the snow. ‘14 NA Flex: replaced the TT. Handles same as TT, just slower. Engine doesn’t sound happy about being flogged, but pulls pretty well above 5000 rpm. Quiet, comfortable... passenger side HVAC has a mind of its own. Blend air door actuator location engineered by satan. You can see the rear screw, you just can’t get to it without improvising or buying a t-handle ratchet from harbor freight... When it dies, I’m looking at getting another TT Flex. That ecoboost v6 is ridiculous. Compared to my ‘05 LGT... Power: YES. Handling: YES. Quiet: YES. Comfort: YES. Problems: YES. [emoji51][emoji1787] HOWEVER! The HVAC in every Subaru I’ve owned has worked flawlessly. This is my second 4th gen LGT, and I’m likely to have at least one or two more. They’re just that good. The newer Legacy models got fat and bloated. I’m sure they’re great cars, but they’re no 4th gen. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I looked at a photo of it? It’s currently sitting at the lot where we park our rigs, waiting for me to return. Even with the miles it has on it, it’s ridiculous fun to drive. Everything is still tight and the engine feels almost perfect. Just... need to figure out why it slams into 4th kinda hard every now and again. [emoji2369] Looking forward to going wingless and putting stock rims and summer tires on it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

3/10- trans cooler fitting on radiator was puking fluid. Limped it to dealer after adding 2 quarts. $578 later, it has a new radiator. [emoji2369] At least I didn’t have to purge the cooling system myself. That’s an irritating task.. The tech was kind enough to not charge me for topping off the trans fluid, and he showed me the drivers side lower rad support was getting soft. I showed up at the dealer basically the minute they opened.. no appointment, nothing. They took my “customer states:” and sent the car straight into the shop. I was offered a complementary courtesy car for the day but I chose to just wait. Only took 3 hours, including having my car washed. Can’t complain.. just would have been nice not to have that problem the second I got back to my car from being on the road for 3 days.. at least I had the foresight to have my wife drop off 3 quarts of scoobsmission fluid for me while I was away. (trans was starting to slip on my drive to work the previous day) Since the repair, I’m happy with the way it shifts but the spillage from the antifreeze is still stinking. Discovered that the exhaust heat shields have all done that thing they do, so that will need addressed. Overall, the condition of this car has been about as expected if perhaps slightly better overall. Hoping the rear wheelwell rust repair goes smoothly when I can get to it. Contrasting this one to the one I lost in the fire... that one was literally 100% rust-free. I miss that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ordered the VAGCOM 409.1 cable. Transmission bangs into 4th kinda hard after battery died, then needed jumped, died, then I replaced.. Battery hasn’t been dumb since, but the trans shifts like it has amnesia or something. It doesn’t slip, it just feels confused. Hopefully the SSM memory2 reset/ relearn will help. Seems like it should, and for $11 it’s worth a try. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Much better.. the passenger side has since been cleaned up. They were yucky. The passenger side does have some weird crystallization thing going on, so I’ll eventually replace it but for now at least the yellow nasty is gone. I used the 3-step kit from sylvania. So far it’s better than other kits I’ve used in the past. The clearcoat/UV protective coating was what sold me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pulled the headlights. Got one side sanded down and re-cleared. Had to leave the house for the day. Front bumper bash bar thing looks like it’s never been hit, so that’s good. Hopefully I can get the other light cleaned up so my eyeball melters will do their job a bit more efficiently. I only managed to break one bolt, so that’s good I guess. I have drill bits, taps and a whole box of 10mm head jap bolts so no worries. For some reason... after the dealership did the airbag recall my elm obd2 thing won’t connect to the ecu. Loose wires, or did something worse happen?

Strangely, the receipt from today’s visit contained the vin and info from my black ‘06 that DIAF. Sad panda face. I miss that car.

Pulled the connector from my DRL module. Installed HiD low beams. Took car to dealer for airbag recall and oil change. Tech installed a $9 lug nut from right rear that was missing for some reason. Replaced Christmas tree pins that hold air snorkel down since they were missing. Drove around. Listened to wooshy boost noises. Smiled a lot.

Well it’s been a week and it hasn’t blown up. Put 4 snow tires on it. It’s been fine.

Just to be clear... if I send him a vf40 core he can rebuild it with ball bearings and other improved components? ...and if I did so, would I need a tune or would it basically just be a bit sharper than stock? I have the old vf40 from my first LGT just sitting in my garage collecting dust. :shrug:

...hm. In what way tho?

Lol oops. I bought it anyway. * Wish me luck. It is rumored the timing and water pump were done at 90k... so it’s due again... No overheat issues or anything even remotely resembling cooling issues. We shalllllll seeeee.

Is there a drag/lift/downforce difference between factory rear wing on LGT sedan versus wingless decklid? I need to replace my decklid and I’m wondering if there’s a benefit to doing one vs the other.

If I can get away with no repairs over $200 for the first 6 months, my wife won’t care if I dump another $1500 into it. Well, excluding tires. It needs tires. 3/32 might pass inspection, but I need good winter tread where I live.

Thanks for everybody’s input. I’m not paying full price. I have a guy fairly local who I can buy takeoff parts from, so most major stuff is covered. The door skins are good, as the original owner had them treated (the waxy goo is hardened out the drain holes) The jack pinches are good on the rockers. Underneath looks pretty good. I have a friend with a lift, and I’ll be making a list as soon as I can get over to his place. I’m probably buying one of those Eastwood brake line flaring rigs anyway, so I’ll have no issue replacing bad lines. Consider: my current daily is a 1990 Chevy K1500. I’m familiar with the extent of rust’s hunger for clean metal.