Arcteryx

Just did this swap after having the rack sitting around for almost a year. Everything went smoothly, although getting the universal splines to re-engage on the rack took a bit of fiddling. I went to the thinner jam nuts right off the bat and had no alignment issues. Also took awhile to fully bleed the power steering system. Night-and-day difference in steering feel, though. Probably the best single mod I've ever done in terms of feel.

So shiny!

Hmm. So currently my (electronic) boost gauge is T'd off the BPV. From what I'm reading, the ideal setup is to swap the FPR and boost gauge lines so that the FPR is now T'd off the BPV and the boost gauge is now reading from the cylinder 4 vacuum where the FPR used to be? I'm also currently running an etune from Cryotune - do I need to update the tune after doing this mod (assuming I also install the STI FPR)?

Yes, but you will need a translator module like the Metra or Maestro to make it work.

Um, I think you mean "Torsen", not "torsion."

Jesus, 200+ posts in this thread and the fix is as simple as a t-connector and some hose? Facepalm. Eager to try it out, though.

Thanks - I figured this out belatedly, and have since bought a Maestro SWC to fix it. Ah, ok. It's not that much more work to do it the ghetto way. What's your personal recommendation for the hookup? Would you still go with the wire-jamming method, or would you use vampire taps? Anyway, sidebar: I'm surprised that the pins for these connectors aren't somewhat generic/interchangeable. Surely there's another connector that uses the same pins?

I've got everything installed except for an aftermarket SWC adapter unit, so I'll let you know if/when it does! I just bought a Kenwood DDX9903S, and it doesn't seem to have the jack shown in that diagram. Is it only on non-North American Kenwood units? Also, I'm wondering if anyone knows whether the Maestro RR units will still have any functionality with pre-2007 Legacies. I know that 2007 was the year when Legacies switched to CANBUS, but if the Maestro is pulling data from the OBD2 connector, would that still work in pre-CANBUS cars? Their website only lists compatibility with 2007+, but I'm still curious. Finally, it's my understanding that if you use one of SVXdc's harnesses, you do NOT need to tap the harness (i.e., add wires) in the connectors by the steering column under the dash - you can just use the wires in SVX's harness at the radio side. Is this correct?

So just to confirm - to get back some of the toe-in adjustability, all I need to do is install thinner jam nuts on the ITRs, correct? And these are M14x1.5 regardless of what year the rack is?

I just bought it.

That would be my concern as well. If it was a front end hit, the tie rods or the rack itself might have been damaged.

Doh, I was too slow. If you ever do another production run, you could definitely count me in for one. I might even be able to get another few local LGT owners interested as well.

So the mechanic found a few interesting things when he was tearing things down. First, the previous owner had already done ARP head studs...but for some reason didn't use the proper nuts (they were 6 point, not 12 point), and one was missing altogether! Second, it looks like somebody (again, probably the previous owner) did an absolute hack job when adjusting valve clearances. The mechanic said that it looked like it had been done "with a die grinder." I guess the bright side is that I now have a pretty good idea why the valve burnt so early.

Good to know, thanks. My take on reading this is that there's basically nothing to be done (top-end wise) in the way of either enhancing reliability or preventive maintenance other than the obvious of doing the timing belt and water pump at the same time? Higher-flow injectors have been on my wishlist for awhile, but I can still do those myself at any point anyway. Regarding resetting the CEL, this all happened *very* quickly. I threw the initial CEL on the highway about 50-75 kms before I reset. I looked at the codes, cleared them, and things went quickly downhill immediately after that. I've been looking for any possible signs or symptoms previous to this point, and even in hindsight I don't see anything that was giving me advance warning of this failure - except perhaps for a single cylinder 4 misfire code a couple of months ago, which by itself doesn't really tell you much - especially when running a lightweight crank pulley, which is known to throw spurious misfire codes.

Quoting myself for an update. Had a few trouble-free months, other than back in July when the car had a weird issue where it seemed to lack power when cold and going uphill. I cleaned the throttle body and MAF and that seemed to fix that issue. After that, it would throw the very occasional misfire code (usually cylinder 4). At least some of these I attributed to having installed a lightweight crankshaft pulley. Then just this week, driving on the highway, I noticed a pretty severe lack of power when going uphills/passing and it threw a flashing CEL. When I arrived in town, I reset the ECU (it was a cylinder 4 misfire code again), and immediately after that it had problems holding idle and kept stalling. At that point, I brought it in to a shop with the ECU showing a cylinder 4 and cylinder 2 misfire. They diagnosed it as a burnt exhaust valve on cylinder 4. So now I'm getting the car towed back home (100 miles) for a top-end rebuild. Anything else I should do while it's apart? I was thinking of going with ARP studs for the head and maybe an upgraded head gasket.

1"? Don't you mean 1 1/16"?

I just asked this on the previous page - apparently the bolt holes are different.

So, has anyone tried just swapping the master cylinder but not the brake booster? Is there a significant difference between our brake booster and the STi one?

Going to bump this thread for a question: I have an '06 GT Limited 5-speed, and I've swapped my steering wheel for a DAMD one. However, since the spokes are still from the stock wheel, it should in theory be possible to just add the radio controls, correct? However, it seems like I'd still have to order a complete Spec. B steering wheel just to get the radio controls?

Update: thankfully, a simple fix. Dealership moved the injector to another cylinder and the misfire followed. Should have it fixed by the end of the week. Also gives me an excuse to upgrade the injectors (not right away, but soon).

Looks like I get to join this club. Bought my 2006 Legacy GT in December of 2012; the previous owner had just replaced the engine and it had maybe 10,000kms on it when I got it. Since then, I've put about 40,000 more kms on it. Slowly been upgrading components (nothing internal, though), and it's now at Stage 2. Installed Killer B equal length headers a couple of months ago, and have had sporadic P2096 (Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean) CELs since installing the headers (which seems par for the course, so I wasn't worried). Then the wife takes the car for a business trip and of course about halfway there the car starts throwing CELs left, right, and center. I had her pull the codes on the AccessPort and they were P0303, PFFFE, PFFFF, and another P2096. I had her reset the codes, and immediately after that, the car started stalling. It's now sitting at a dealership, so I'm waiting to hear their diagnosis. I'm hoping it's something simple like the injectors, coilpack, O2 sensor, or MAP and not burnt valves (which seems unlikely given that it's cylinder 3 misfiring instead of the usual cylinder 4). Maybe the P2096 codes prior to this were actually pointing to the front O2 sensor on its way out?

I do, actually. Although I bought a new one, I patched the broken wires in the old one case I ever needed a spare. A few of the body mounting clips are broken, but otherwise it is intact.

I found that it will go a lot faster if you don't care about keeping the various plastic plugs intact. Getting them out without damaging them is a PITA. I don't think they were designed to be removed (or reused).

I just did this today with a kit from DiodeDynamics. Like Rock_2.5GT above, instead of hacking up the factory harness and removing the back of the dust cap, I drilled a 7/8" hole in the side and put the grommet in there: http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d122/sbanman/car%20pics/20150125_1330421.jpg You might want to grind off some of the ribs on the outside to get the grommet to sit nicely without folding over. Then, since the HID harness had two male connectors for the triggering connectors, and the factory connectors have one male, one female, I made a simple adapter harness to connect the ground side of the two: http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d122/sbanman/car%20pics/20150125_1330491.jpg All connected up: http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d122/sbanman/20150125_1332131.jpg Note that you only really have to make this connection on one side (driver's side), since there will (usually) only be one trigger connector going to the relay. You can just tape up the red and black wires on the other side. Honestly, the most time-consuming part of the whole process was trying to blindly fit the cap back onto the back of the housing, since I didn't remove the front bumper and instead went at it from underneath. There's actually lots of room to work, it's just not easy to see what you're doing!

It's not any of those things, and I'm pretty sure it's coming from somewhere around the edge of the windshield; I just haven't figured out exactly where yet. The noise is such that at first I thought it was the rubber on my crossbars flapping, but that's not it either. It's not a rattle, it's more like a buzz.