baconbits

I've been meaning to send a 2008 Fox Float 80RL to Push Industries since I bought the bike in 09...

Without a bigass printer, that's going to be printed in 4-5 pieces and glued together.

At the very least, let us agree that east and west are both better than south... Parma... yuck...

Meh, east side. Probably stolen. west siiiddeeee 4 lyf

I saw two 4th gens recently... 08/09 SpecB on 237 by the IX center driven by a female about two weeks ago... 'course I did a ricer fly by in order to catch up and see who was driving. She looked disgusted. I think she got off at the Snow Road exit. Also saw an ABP 4th gen sedan with black wheels southbound on W210/Wagar... waved but got nothing. There's also an 08/09 GT sedan at the same apartment complex my dad lives in.

Yeah, I have that 50-55 hour per week drain on free time too.

Did you assemble the shortblock yourself? Nicely done. Roughly how long did this endeavor take from starting the engine pull to the first firing?

I measure stuff all the time using a Romer arm and contact probe at work... there's no reason to edit whatever you measure because in essence, even with a scanner, you're just measuring points on a surface. If you edit what you measure, how do you know what you started with?

I've used Solidworks every day for the past 5 years or so... switching would be agony.

Wheels would be cake in Solidworks compared to something like that vent pod, I would think... Wheels have an axis and planes you could design from, pattern it... That pod, not so much. I've never done any surface modeling so I can't comment on how difficult it is... I just see guys where I work trying to do something that would be easy with a surface modeling software but with Solidworks and having a hell of a time with it.

Solidworks really isn't ideal for surfaces like this... It's better suited for stuff that can be machined. It's doable, just not easily.

I can test fit it if needed

Cost for aluminum version? In love the idea...just wish there was a way to hide the bolts.

Hell if I know. I should probably review my insurance policy.

Because the roof is so old, they'll probably just pay out a portion to patch the bad spots. That's what happened when the remnants of Hurricane Sandy rolled through Ohio... my roof was over $5000 and they only gave my grandma (previous owner of the house) like $1200 to patch spots on her 25+ year old roof. She ended up putting the $1200 towards the cost of the complete new roof, 3 layer tear off, etc.

13-1/3 squares for me, I think. Did you have a tear off too? If yes, $9k doesn't sound too bad, all in.

That was part of the deal with me buying mine... needed a new roof or $5k came off the asking price. The roof was 25+ years old so it was due.

My 1350 sqft bungalow with a 3 layer tear off, 9/12 pitch, 3 small dormers, and 2 chimneys was $4900 after "$500 senior discount" before my grandma sold the house to me. 2500sqft+ ranch with attached garage...

Yup. More roofing costs too. I believe he said something about more exterior wall area as well so it's more expensive to heat and cool too.

I'm glad I'm not the only one who installs outlets "upside down." I love the color scheme but there's zero chance I could talk my girlfriend into the black tile. As far as the ranch versus two story, a ranch is actually the most expensive style to build per square foot according to a friend in the business. He's been wrong before (especially about car things ) but it makes sense when you think about it...

I thought the fire block caulk/foam was only needed when transitioning through floors and not every stud/joist opening? Liquid Nails makes some and I know Great Stuff makes an expanding fire foam for larger holes.

Technically I should have most of what I've done inspected (electrician) but most of that code is common sense... Every stud and joist that has electrical or plumbing running through it covered by drywall has the metal plates over it to prevent drywall screws from puncturing the wires or pipes. 20a outlets on 15a or 20a breaker circuits. All wiring is 12ga romex, not tied into knob and tube. All knob and tube is terminated in accessible, plastic boxes with proper connectors and tape... etc.

Damn... what would that run for 3d printing? That looks really robust. I was envisioning something along the lines of the gauge face plate, the bottom plate in the background, and then some other plate extending along the former floor of the cubby... kind of like an upside down T with the cross bar shifted towards the front of the car with a thick radius on the back side or something to gusset it. Looks like you thought of that already...

Possible to route a dual cubby pod in some manner that is stronger/cheaper than existing options? I have one on my desk now that's 2 sheets of plastic "glued" together that has cracked several times in its life on my desk. Perhaps something with mounting holes as mine (not sure about others) doesn't have any. 3d printing might be better for an ash tray location gauge pod... do 52mm even fit down there?

Yeah, I wouldn't trust 3d printed plastic for a suspension component. I personally don't like the idea of the butt spacers period but to each their own.