baconbits

Nemo, I had the same thing happen to my shower. Thankfully I already had plans to remodel it in the works, and it was leaking like that for only a couple weeks from what I can tell. I didn't have any mold on joists, studs, or flooring under the tub, only some growing in the then-disintegrated drywall/cement board. I also did the same bandaid you did, caulking the grout joints. For what it's worth, I had a rec room demo'd in my basement, about 60 feet of clay block walls (7.5 foot high) , and 800 square feet of ceiling+floor combined cleaned by a mold remediation company. They came in, did the demo and cleaning, and hauled everything away in 3 days for $2800, but there was no repair of anything needed like joists, studs, etc. I fully gutted my bathroom down to the studs and joists - the only thing left standing was the tub - and remodeled it myself for about $2400. Nothing super fancy but plenty nice for a main floor common bathroom for guests and such. When I remodel my upstairs bedroom into a master suite, that bathroom will be must nicer.

I dealt with water damage and a mold problem after I bought my house... what a disaster the basement was. I ended up calling someone after I realized the true extent of it because I was WAY over my head. In short, bleach does not effectively kill mold on porous surfaces as the mold has root-like structures that grow deeper than the bleach will penetrate, at least on the clay block walls I have (same story for wood and cinder block, according to the company I used). My basement never once smelled of bleach... it had that sterile hospital smell to it while they had the air filters running. I think they used some kind of hydrogen peroxide based agent or had some kind of milldewcide or something... definitely no bleach because they told us not to worry about pets while they were working. $2800, 3 days, and a 30 yard dumpster later, you could eat, have surgery, whatever in my basement. It was CLEAN.

Hayes Stroker Trails have treated me well if you're on a budget. They're awesome for warranty stuff too if you have issues... they helped me out even though I was out of warranty by a couple months.

Agreed with the Diablo blades - I cut up and scrapped an old Volkswagen with a friend and only needed 3 Sawzall blades. I have an 18t or 24t demo blade from them on my circular saw and that thing destroys everything... nails, electrical boxes, plywood, staples, everything. I've been using it for framing too. I'd say 90% of what I end up using this Hitachi saw for will be straight cuts because I feel its easier to get a straighter cut than with a circular saw. Small job, one or two cuts, sure, circular saw to skip the hassle but bigger than that... The fence is all composite stuff. Her condo complex sent a letter to my mom and her neighbor saying they needed to replace their shared fence and that it must have a "wood look," texture, and color. The posts and crossbars have a cedar (although it's light colored like pine) core with a pressed composite outer with a weathered woodgrain feel to it. The pickets are solid composite. Apparently all the materials for that was almost $500... 3 posts, 6 cross bars, 12 brackets (post to crossbar), 32 pickets.

Bought a miter saw the other day. Considering I rarely need to cut 2x20s or anything that big, I couldn't justify a slider, nor could I justify needing a 12" blade. Got the 10" single bevel Hitachi that Lowe's had on sale for $109+tax... love it so far. Comes with a 24t carbide blade that cuts regular and pressure treated 2x4s like butter along with the composite fence stuff I installed for my mom yesterday. While installing, well, trying to, the pickets, I found out that even at 105psi, my Bostitch 18ga stapler has ZERO balls to it. I ended up brad nailing the pickets to the crossbars versus the staples they called for.

I don't really have a problem doing it myself (although I will check it out)... it's just that there's no way to satisfy both code requirements so I don't know what to do/can be done. Unfinished basement so I was just going to do pressure treated stringers and bottom plate with normal, untreated treads. I have some OSB left over that should be enough for risers. If I remember, I'll post some pictures tonight of the other issues with the steps/landing that I want to fix while I'm under there.

I framed, ran electrical, plumbed, drywalled, painted, and semi-finished the basement half bath that was there when I bought my house. It was torn down 2.5 years ago when the mold remediation company came through and I just had a toilet and wall mounted sink chilling in the middle of a 30x40 basement. Largest bathroom in the county. I touched up some other electrical in the basement so I could move my cable modem and router down there and finally take advantage of the cat6 ethernet I ran when I rewired the main floor. No more blinding blue modem lights on my computer desk and no drop in wifi strength so that's all good. Next project is probably rebuilding the steps going to my basement. Any carpenters or people familiar with framing codes here? Per code, my steps are too steep as they are now - code calls max 37° and mine are 42°) which I can fix when I rebuild them but then I run into clearance issues with vertical height (must maintain 6ft 8in head clearance or more). Thoughts? Just rebuild exactly what I have?

I didn't break anything on mine today... merely fixed something. After about 2-3 miles of city riding at a good clip (I really should just get a road bike), I would get a rhythmic squeak or squeal... thought it was the front hub or brake but no dice. I was getting pissed thinking I had fixed it only to find a third of the way through my next ride that I had to suffer through it for another 6 miles. Turns out it was my inner pad on my rear disc brake had come unclipped from the piston. How, don't ask me. Reclipped it, pushed the pistons back in to realign the caliper and all is happy. I should get some lower rolling resistance tires but F me, Small Block 8s cost a fortune. Any recommendations for a 26er riding city streets and hard pack single track?

I had quite the falling out with the Superfly organizer when I got out of the VW scene. He's wronged a few friends of mine as well. I won't attend.

Yeah... after posting, I realized I also have access to google... imagine that. I also thought the same thing about the 9th cog hanging off the end and feared what would happen if a 10th was perched on the end like that. The only spacer I have is between the 1-3 bunch and the 4-7 bunch, maybe 2mm thick. From what I can tell, it's required to have the proper spacing between the gear sets, otherwise they would be close to touching and make shifting difficult or impossible. From what I found on google, there are 9s and 10s free hub bodies and I'm thinking I've got a 9s. That 9th cog sits down within the 8th and the 8th kind of sits within the 7th so they all have quite a bit of contact/spline area on the body so I'm not worried about them digging in as much as the 4-7 group. Supposedly these hubs are easy to work on so swapping over to a 10s for 10/11 compatibility and to get rid of the aluminum (I think they have steel ones?) shouldn't be too bad. And yes, that cassette is filthy but it's this wax-based lube I use because I always ride in the dry. Gets dirty and just flakes off. Hasn't let me down and I've had this chain, cassette, and chain ring for many, many miles. The chain whip I have for removing the cassette nut still slots in and holds firm with the teeth so I know they aren't worn because the chain isn't stretched.

Swapped my Hope Hoops with Evo2 hubs back onto my bike. Need to hit up my friend that works at Kenda here in Ohio to see if he can get me some Small Block 8s cheeeeeep. Also grabbed a couple pictures of my hub... Wrench, can you tell if this is a 10s compatible hub from these? Sram 9s cassette on there now. I love these Hope hubs... bees... so many bees. They're no i9 or Kings but still.

Pensyltucky begins anywhere there is a WELCOME TO PENNSYLVANIA sign.

Honestly, the lighting in that picture is pretty bright so it washes out the green and makes it more neon. Here's one from this past Christmas... opposite end of the spectrum and a little dark, but I think it gives you guys a good idea. It's extremely relaxing, especially with the nature theme we're going for (in search of framed forest pictures, etc).

I have a Sherwin within walking distance of my house... the $80/gal steers me away. I really need to hit up my cousin for the "friends and family" discount considering he works at their corporate offices here in Cleveland.

This is the only picture of the brown I have... this brown took 3 coats to cover up satin white. Yes, my living room is bright green and yes, I did it. I think it works with the white trim, black and grey furniture, and the hardwood.

The one time I used Behr paint, it was garbage. The rest of my house is painted with Valspar. However, the color we picked for the Behr paint, Mississippi Mud, looks fantastic with bright white trim and hardwood. We used it in a hallway and our entry foyer area. It's close to a milk chocolate color.

Greens are usually seen as calming... blues can be the cold and icy you're talking about.

Anyone got a framing nailer they're sick of tripping over and want to sell cheap? Pneumatic... preferably Bostitch or Hitachi although the pneumatic Paslode ones look nice. Just looking for something non Harbor Freight so it's one less tool I have to borrow from my neighbor. Yes, I have a Bostitch/DeWalt/Stanley chub.

How would I know if it's 10s compatible? Have a set of beater wheels from Bicycle Wheel Warehouse built with some XT guns circa 6-7 years ago and a set of Hope Hoops with Pro2 non-Evos circa 5-6 years ago. I have a feeling I'm SOL unless I want to build some.

Here I am on 1x9 and now there's 1x12? Talked to a local at a paintball tournament the other day and he said he tried out 2x11 for the first time recently at his LBS and immediately bought it. I'm thinking about it but keeping my 1x front ring.

My both my dryer and AC condenser on each on 30A circuits... the rest of the house has a relatively low power draw. Gas range (HATE electric), gas water heater, almost every bulb is CFL, LED TVs... I just want to ditch the electric dryer and long term, get a more efficient AC condenser. While that's happening, moving my furnace/AC out of the dead center of my basement would be awesome too but I'll do that all in one go when replacement time comes for it too.

If we have the dryer running and the central AC kicks on, any light in the house dims, my computer speakers click, etc. 200a is probably not needed (nor will it fix that issue) but 150a service doesn't exist and moar is better, right?

I need to upgrade my panel... kind of want to upgrade to a 200A service just so I don't have to run the mini/split/double breakers to add circuits. I really don't need 200A if I can ditch my electric dryer (30A double-wide breaker) and go back to gas like I want.

Looks kind of like sheathed knob and tube coming out of that switch (I had a lot of the stuff in my house)... either way. Rewiring with romex is best, as long as you know what you're doing. From the looks of it, you do.

Knob and tube can't have insulation batting around that... that's probably why there was an electrical fire. Nice work!