baconbits

I left 5000 pounds of demo debris on my front sidewalk in Bagster bags for a week without a permit and I know we needed permits for demo. A friend essentialy razed her house and built new and while they were finishing the driveway pour, literally the last thing on the list, they got dinged for no permits. $500 fine later, all was well, but they had all their ducks in a row with plans, pictures, and whatnot anyway.

A coworker is having a deck built now and he's one county over from me and was told he didn't need a permit because it's not attached to the house. Who knows. Ask forgiveness, permission, ease, etc. All kinds of places require permits for simple things like light switch replacement or swapping a hot water tank or kitchen faucet... and we all know how many people get those permits.

Decided to skip a concrete patio due to grading issues and the fact that they would be pouring the slab right up to some glass block windows. The concrete guy I had come out said they usually like to pour the slab 6" below windows and mine would be either at the window level or at most, 2" below. That and his price tag was $1800 or so. I've decided to go forward with a floating deck and pergola combo and because of local codes, I'm 99% sure I don't need a permit because it's not attached to the house, no power or plumbing, etc. I can do the deck plus pergola for about $1000 out of basic pressure treated lumber.

Concrete contractor flaked out on coming out for a quote yesterday. Have another guy stopping out tomorrow supposedly.

Yeah, I've heard the month rule for full cure (and thus full strength) but as far as building a smaller pergola (14x10x9 or so) isn't THAT much weight.

Welp, reached out to three local concrete guys. Patio is going to be 16x12 with provisions (if needed) to anchor/build a pergola on top. 1. No quote, not even a rough guess until he sees the area/job. Made it seem like the job was too small for him. 2. $6/sqft for forming, concrete, and finishing. Add for excavation, gravel, and wire/fiber mesh. "I could maybe do the whole thing for around $1500 total." 3. $3-4/sqft for concrete, thinks the whole job could be around $1000 including excavation. I have the $6/sqft guy coming out today to see the area and get a formal estimate together. Working on getting the $3-4/sqft guy out soon. Does anyone know how soon after pouring that it's safe to build on it? Week? Two weeks? Three days?

Not poor, just picky I could probably be talked into stamped but if it doubles the cost (dye, labor), then I'd probably skip it. The thing is, digging out a size that big is a lot of labor that I don't want to do, partly because I don't know how to get rid of it. If I pay someone, it's part of the deal.

I was going to do that with a neighbor who wanted about 8-10 of his driveway squares done (ours are 4-5 cars long by a car wide) so we could use most of a truck of concrete but he ended up fixing his driveway (sagging/cracked blocks) by getting those foam people out and jacking it up. A coworker's husband does concrete and he says for him to do it as a side job would be $500-1000 but I don't know what all that included. He also said for his company to do it, it's too small and recommended pavers but those are way too expensive. I'm leaning toward concrete so I can just get those metal fence post tie things and anchor them to the concrete for the pergola posts.

Has anyone here installed a patio, or had a patio installed for them? I'm looking at something 14x16' or maybe 16x18' roughly. I was going to say just normal, non-stamped concrete to keep it cheap (I also hate chairs and tables that rock, looking at you stamped concrete) and I'll spruce it up by building myself a pergola, let the girlfriend go crazy with potted plants and window baskets, etc. What was everyones' costs? Pavers themselves are unholy expensive and digging down 8-10" of clay to prepare the bed for pavers sounds like it would suck. If I had some concrete folks out, I'm sure they'd have a skidsteer which would make quick work of it. I would also need some minor regrading of my yard for drainage after digging out the patio. Problem is, I don't know if a concrete contractor is going to want to touch a job that's only 3-4 yards of concrete. Anyone? Bueller?

Paying entry into a car meet is silly to me. I also had a falling out with the organizer years back.

No wing on this guy... made me want to swap to a wingless trunk but I haven't found anyone local with a wingless BSM car.

Spotted an 07-09 SWP NA sedan yesterday. He was doing 5-8 under the limit so I made sure to blow by him.

Anyone wanna buy an LGT Cobb SF intake without box? Would deliver for $100 to anyone Cleveland local

Anyone wanna buy an LGT Cobb SF intake without box? Would deliver for $100 to anyone Cleveland local

...JDM tails don't have parking lights for driving at night? Why would anyone want those? It's like when people nightshade their tail lights to the point that they're opaque and say they're safe because they haven't been rear ended... yet. A risk I wouldn't want to take. You sure there's no way to wire up so you have parking lights in the rear like the USDM lights?

I've got a chromoly Kona and love it although I'm starting to realize the 26" size requires much more effort on the trails here. If they were more technical, I'd be more inclined to keep it but my friends on 29s all ride away like I'm sitting on a log. My biggest issue with 29s are the stand over height.

Yep, they're stepping up big time.

It's not like I need new wheels - I love my Hope Pro2 hubs and Stan's Crest rims - but just the whole being able to say I can thing and the self satisfaction. That and it's a good excuse to have a couple adult beverages away from the girlfriend in the basement for a couple hours.

All this wheel talk... for the longest time, I've told myself I was going to teach myself how to lace and true my own wheels and I just haven't gotten around to it.

I'm one of the exhaust engineers at Corsa... coming up on my five year anniversary in a couple months. It's actually an STI sedan prototype that I saved from the scrap bin and hack-n-wacked after hours to make it fit. Shameless (very flexible on price) plug for the locals: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fs-cleveland-oh-2006-legacy-gt-limited-gauging-interesti-259866.html

Usually the power coming into the house is on aluminum but as it's been said, it's the terminations that need tending to. The videos I peeped for upgrading the panel listed some kind of grease or coating or something for the ends of the supply wires from the pole.

There's a white NA 4th gen wagon around my work all the time... makes me hate my silver. To date, I could count on one hand how many local 4th gen GTs I've seen. Mine'll be up for sale in the spring if anyone's looking... KW coils, tons of Whiteline and AVO suspension bits, custom Corsa exhaust, Accessport, and Advan wheels included...

Waterproof on the outside is key but keeping it from coming up through the floor can be an issue too. BMB, it's a lot easier to do on newer homes, IMO, where they can be tarred on the outside during construction.

The process I saw to insulate a basement is to adhere rigid foam to the walls itself - big ##### patterns on the wall using Liquid Nails or something, NOT squiggles or dots or S shapes because those allows air to flow down the wall between the insulation and wall - and then frame your walls out beyond that. Air flowing from the top, which could be cold (uninsulated ends of joists, for instance) flowing down which then meets damp basement air, condensation, etc.... I talked to the mold remediation company I used and the guys all told me that I could do that but they would be back out in 10 years when I had another mold problem - mold actually feeds off most adhesives and will grow on foam insulation. You could put a vapor barrier up like plastic between the stud walls and the basement block wall, but then there's air in there, moisture, and mold will just grow in there instead of on your studs. Without having a basement in Phoenix that's been tarred on the outside and sealed under the floor before it's poured (essentially living in a boat inside an ocean of dirt ), pretty much any basement is too wet to finish and guarantee no mold. Do what you can to keep your basement humidity under 40-45% too, according to a home building buddy of mine. YMMV, every situation is different but I didn't want to chance it. It's just my girlfriend and me in our 1350sqft house so the basement is just heated storage right now... if we had triplets or something, yeah, I'd be more worried about a solution but at that point, we'd be looking for a different house altogether. Just my two cents.

I think they mean keep an eye out for humidity problems after insulating. Part of the reason I decided to not finish (frame walls, drywall, etc) my basement is that by insulating it, I'd be creating prime spots for mold to grow.