Rusty9

Yes, but space may be limited around the oil filter with the exhaust and your choice of sensor(s). I used a relocation kit from Prosport (https://www.iagperformance.com/prosport-remote-oil-pressure-sender-installation-kit/) for my STI's oil pressure.

 

It's so weird they have a rear diff oil temp sensor but not engine oil pressure or temp.

Thank you for your input. I'm not drag racing - just a fun street car. Could you please provide a link or part number for the IAG Street Series AOS you've referred to?

 

This should be the one

 

https://www.iagperformance.com/iag-performance-v3-street-series-air-oil-separator-aos-for-2008-14-subaru-impreza-wrx-2008-20-sti/

1) whatever else looks old/crusty/brittle. there's nothing specific that just "goes bad" (maybe head gaskets lol)

 

2)1050 injectors are overkill for the stock turbo but nothing wrong with them, they are high quality and plentiful.

 

3) replace anything that looks old/crusty/brittle

 

4) heat shield good. doesn't matter what brand. even the stock one is fine.

 

5) stock replacement line is fine.

 

6) bare minimum replace the pickup tube. killer b, moroso, whatever. all are better than the stock one.

 

7) headers up to you, might get slightly quicker turbo spool, but at stock power levels/turbo the stock headers are fine for the job.

 

8) a wideband A/F is always better for tuning. again its not going to give you a significant improvement but it is future proofing and gives the tuner more flexibility and accurate feedback for his tune

 

9) not necessary, but it is logical to assume that a temp reading after the intercooler is better than at the airbox. typically this is done for higher power/boost applications where a few degrees might matter.

 

10) flex fuel, again, is better for high power/boost. entirely subjective to fuel availability in your area. are you drag racing?

 

11) IAG street series AOS should be standard on every turbo subaru =)

 

In summary, since you are staying stock turbo and don't want to go any further than where you are, just stick with the maintenance items. all the other stuff will help you meek out some extra HP, but nothing significant.

 

New stock maintenance/wear items (hoses, gaskets, etc), stock oilpan with aftermarket pickup, AOS, and wideband for your tuner.

could be something wrong with the TGV itself, not the sensor.

 

https://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/22964-25xt-p2016-fault-code/

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/p2016-90655.html

Good luck to you! Good time for a little road trip

well an aftermarket rad is nearly twice as thick as the stock one, so you will have to trim some hose. mine fits just barely.

 

Anyways...mishimoto does not have one with a trans cooler. But Koyo does have one with trans cooler.

From the local dealers and various places I've looked they've been discontinued. So here I am

 

Oh that stinks. http://www.subarudirectwholesale.com still lists the fronts as available. Someone has to have a set somewhere!

 

I doubt they would have the whole seats, but you could always have your old ones re-skinned at a local auto/marine upholsterer...same for the door cards I suppose.

off black is the color of the rest of the door panel/interior. the fitment below only lists one year of Spec.b, 2006 so the inserts would be brick red.

still available new

 

Fronts:

94279AG98BJC

94279AG99BJC

 

Rears:

94289AG02AJC

94289AG03AJC

 

about $250 each from subaru parts wholesalers

POWER STOP L3698/3699 are the smart choice for 4 pots =) bolts right up, but may not clear stock wheels.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/?carcode=1428791&parttype=1704

 

Need the matching year STI rotors too...

well, a cap may hold pressure, but not the correct pressure. I think the manual states 12 psi as the lower limit for replacement, 14-18 psi being ok. If it only holds 10-12 psi (or less) then your coolant will boil. Most cooling systems testers available for rent at auto parts stores can test this, but caps are like $7

 

UV dye is added to the coolant, just like you imagine and then you drive around for a day or two and then inspect every hose, fitting, clamp, radiator with UV flashlight. Some pin hole leaks are so small the heat from the engine bay evaporates any wetness you might see without the UV dye.

 

You'd be surprised at how many brand new t-stats I've pulled with the jiggle pin at the bottom. not the end of the world but it can make burping the system take forever.

 

Only other test for radiator is pressure tester, but that won't detect a clog like feeling for cold/cooler spots or inspecting with an IR thermometer or camera.

Correction, perfect exhaust for old people

 

kids these days with straight pipes and cherry bombs!

Yeah you can fit any number of engines in the engine bay, every single one of those swaps is RWD only. OP wants to keep AWD with a V8 which is impossible to fit with a subaru AWD transmission.

Are your fans actually working?

 

-Check fan operation (detailed instructions/troubleshooting in FSM

-replace caps (2 different caps, make sure they are in the correct locations, inexpensive and easy to change)

-check for pinhole leaks (UV dye)

-check water pump (vanes can erode from cavitation, no flow at low rpm)

-check that "jiggle" pin is in the correct orientation on t-stat. (up)

-replace radiator (inexpensive and easy to change)

Also, installed a Borla LGT CBE as well. Third time is the charm on exhaust setup and the noise level is perfect for general livability and drone, even with UEL headers (Perrin).

 

I've had this on my car for 10 years, with a 3" catless DP. It is the perfect cat back.

Heat it up with an oxy/acetylene torch. Turn the nuts while they are still hot.

 

Can't be tight if its a liquid!

many doubts on mating a subi AWD transmission to a chevy LS and keeping the LS from sticking out a foot past the grill.

 

Take a look at where your front wheels are and realize an entire v8 needs to fit in front of them =)

 

I'm sure people have stuck different style engines in, just making it RWD only.

the jdm 2.0 liter is essentially the same as the usdm 2.5. subaru only increased the displacement for the american market because we are accustomed to higher low end torque.

 

stock turbos are very reliable on either engine. don't know if he's getting rebuilt turbo every month, or brand new. I would start with oil/oil pressure issues. there is no reason turbos should be failing in a month unless they are very VERY poorly rebuilt or they just have no oil.

 

also is your BOV set for recirculate or vent to atmosphere? it should be installed with the recirculating kit for the legacy.

Indeed! Hopefully I'll get to install or at least mock up the big brakes to see if the stock 18's will clear this weekend. Then all it needs is a new short block...think it melted a piston, it uh...runs...but shoots oil out the exhaust?!

got rid of the old girl's cataracts.

 

 

 

TYC brand from Rockauto. fit perfect, included bulbs as well.

I'm in florida and I never use my sunroof.

sorry but why in the world would you want your headlights to blink?

 

the guy at https://www.legacyoddsnends.com/ makes a switchback harness for the marker lights.

There should be 2 braided ground straps on the underside of the engine to the body, one on either side. Since they are not insulated they tend to disintegrate.

 

Mine had disintegrated and would occasionally throw a weird "Drive Mode Changed" or some such on the dash till I fixed that.

I don't doubt it. When I had my car tuned 8 years ago the guy was anal about putting a zip tie on EVERY vacuum line connection.

looking forward to more of your suck and blow tales