Rusty9

Years ago someone posted a sunglass holder for a VW that screwed in place of the strap handle above the door. worked for me, but I can't remember any details. otherwise marie kondo that place. There is a dual tray center console lid that gives some more storage space as well.

Glad you figured it out, sounded like it was the "illumination" signal wire that goes to various places around the dash and cabin that got cut in the wrong place.

Anyways, it's not a BAD turbo per-se, it's just 20 year old tech. Sure my 40" Sorny Trinitron Tube TV was great in 1997 but I wouldn't choose it over a 40" flat panel if they were next to each other

Use whatcha got and make a cool car!

No I mean on USDM/LHD the defrost buttons are on the right dial and auto/off buttons on the left. The JDM/RHD kit has them opposite. And the mode/ac/fan speed buttons are in a different order if anyone cares.

another nugget to consider is the VF30 was designed for the 2.0 liter and most likely won't perform the same on a 2.5

people sell very low mileage vf52's on nasioc for a few hundred all the time.

The JDM double din kit is the easily available option still. BUT it leaves a small gap since it's angled the other way for RHD, and the controls are "backwards" left/right. Only other option is to find a Euro/Russian LHD equivalent. Sometimes they pop up on ebay. I got one from a russian seller named "subaru2din" but his account is marked as "on vacation" until 2030...

You can buy a UV additive for the coolant. Put that in and run it for a few days then inspect everything with a UV flashlight. Pinhole leaks in the rad or fittings can evaporate before you see any wetness. Also seconding the use of a pressure tester. Parts stores carry them for free rental.

Yes...the rebuilt ones from Rock Auto. They were like $150ish each...beats $1200+ for old beat up BremBROS with stripped threads, bleeders, and need rebuilt anyways. Painter charged about $300 to paint all 4. I did the decals since I own a sign shop.

I think I got the '06 sti fronts and '04 wrx 2 pot rears, or vice versa. I can look through my old emails to get the part numbers if you need them. All the info I got was from the forums here about brake upgrade options. 4 pot fronts are direct fit (with new sti rotors), 2 pot rears need adapters which are still available from various sellers.

I would still recommend the G2 epoxy kit, I tried the duplicolor shit on these first and they looked like ass. Might as well have used my GF's nail polish. Last calipers for my old car I did with G2 and they came out great, smooth even finish in 1 brush-on coat.

I've used the epoxy G2 kit before with good success. It has good coverage brushing it on. The other lacquer style paints (nail polish type/smell) usually require 2-3 coats for a smooth even finish.

Otherwise bring them to a pro... 

I've installed one in my new STI and plan on putting one in the spec b with the new engine.

If you ignore the marketing wank, oil vapor from the pcv system going back into the intake can and will reduce octane rating of the gas going in. May be a little..may be a lot depending on a lot of factors. Also keeps the entire intake system cleaner. 

I don't know any subie/porsche engine builder that would specifically say NOT to install a good one like the IAG street series. 

I would say too much of an aggressive clutch, but without a dyno run to see your actual torque hard to say. shoot when I replaced mine I got a "HD" stage 1 clutch that was a) terrible engagement and b) stupid heavy pedal for a street car. that was quickly replaced with a stock oem sti clutch..which has been on there for at least 80k miles. my car was about 300tq at the wheels when it was tuned. So you might want to go back down to a more street friendly clutch...

Ah that stinks, keep checking though. Maybe send him a msg. Pretty sure he is Russian so maybe he got conscripted comrade.

There's a seller on ebay "Subaru2din" that sells the EDM version which is correct for LHD cars. The JDM one isn't a perfect fit since it's angled for RHD

well tell us where to throw money at besides our old shitboxes 

Could be normal, the system will evacuate any air left over from your rad replacement as it heat cycles, which will draw in a bit of coolant from the reservoir. Keep an eye on it, if you have to keep adding a little bit every few weeks you probably have a pinhole leak somewhere else.

 

Auto parts stores usually have a pressure tester for rent, just a small pump that connects to the rad to pressurize the system while cold. Pump it up to 10-15 psi and let it sit for a while. if you notice the pressure go down, start looking for wet spots.

 

Sometimes really small leaks are hard to spot because the coolant will evaporate when its on a hot engine.

I'm doing the same but removing the stock navi, replacing it with the regular cubby, and 1din brackets to mount gauges in there instead. Found an EDM LHD 2 din bezel for where the radio goes to put a combo radio/nav screen there. the JDM bezel is angled for RHD so it leaves a small gap. Also the climate control buttons are on the "correct" side. Got it off ebay from a seller named "subarudin" from russia! (before they invaded ukraine!)

Subie ThreeBond or Loctite 518

Thank you boys for the encouragement, pics, and links to the helpful posts. Sometimes it's tough digging through 20 years of posts to find what you need. Most of the time someone posts pics and instructions in an unrelated tangent...

 

I took the whole manifold off with most everything still attached so I could go back and replace things one at a time to make it a bit easier. All the hoses are brittle and probably every electrical connector is as brittle as a cracker. Thank god iWire has a whole engine bay connector kit for like $100. the engine wiring harness is about $350 from Subaru

I know there are dozens of engine rebuild threads and videos, but none of them cover reinstalling the intake manifold and the rats nest of lines and hoses underneath. Does anyone have a rough guide on the order all that shtuff should go back on besides "installation is reverse of removal"? I'm pretty much replacing every hose and line as everything is fairly brittle and rotten.

 

Got the heads off the block the other day and all the cam journals are all scored so there's another $1600+ for new heads...didn't see any obvious broken pistons from the top, so I'll have to split the case and check it the ringlands out some time later. New STI shortblock should be here soon!

So what are the shortblock options these days? Still IAG and OEM? Can we buy an S209 block?

 

Just bought a new STI RA shortblock... $1900 from Subaru. I think its the best option for 400whp or so. Should be here in a week or so.

 

time enough to get the purple power and scrub brushes out.

 

Does this do anything for an auto besides bling? Or does it just benefit 5/6mts?

 

Depends on how often you smash the brakes as hard as you can. Everyday driving...not so much noticeable difference.

 

And, paint. Any tips for painting a car without access to a booth or garage?

 

 

Yeah, don't.

 

Drove my car for the first time in 3 weeks, it's 80 degrees outside, and no snow. Just last week we had snow all over now it's warm.

I think I need to drive the car more. I have a trans leak that drips when sitting, and something else. I just need the STI 6MT swap.

 

It seems to not leak when I drive it more and the gaskets expand.

 

I've got a Spec.B 6mt taking up space in my garage. Rebuilt, 0 miles.

https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/?id=16980

well, if you had an impreza, then the legacy has the same engine.

 

some prefer the 2.0 over the 2.5. same engine really, the 2.5 has slightly more torque.

 

I don't think anyone can answer your other questions except you =)