Rusty9

I've been seeing a few (GX-204LE) pop up on Alegro.pl which appears to be a Polish ebay/marketplace. Luckily I have a Polish friend who may be able to purchase there and ship to US. Some sellers only ship domestic, so best to ask first if they ship international.

up to you brother. most people would agree that a single exhaust can look a bit silly when the bumper has dual cutouts. Single exhaust is lighter and is just fine for a small displacement 4 cylinder. Performance is negligible between the two. Just sound and looks.

2nd'ing the Borla cat back. Little pricey but sounds great, nice rumble and no annoying loudness, brapps or farts. First thing I put on my car 10 years ago.

Sucks that its cable and not rod actuated. Best I can think of is take the other side off and see if you can determine what the child lock switch actuates and see if you can somehow hit that from the window seal or under the interior trim piece.

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-(FSM)-Every-Model-USDM-EU

typically the wiper on float mechanism wears out. There should be some specs in the FSM for you to test relatively easy, if you are handy enough to take the backseat out and use a multimeter to test the resistance value when full/mid/empty. Otherwise they would just replace the whole fuel pump assembly. The aftermarket pump would not affect the level sensor unless something was reassembled wrong.

I see, thank for clarification! I have one of those panels from the russian ebay guy, did not know the USDM board was all one unit as opposed to the separate boards from the JDM kit. 

Good luck! These are getting hard to find! 

Do you happen to know what is different from the USDM HVAC controls that necessitates the EDM HVAC controls? They look the same, except color. 

I understand the JDM HVAC wouldn't work as the physical buttons are in reverse order.

I suppose you mean that if you already have a JDM panel installed and want to update to this, you would need USDM/EDM controls.

*oh the MODE and A/C buttons are swapped between USDM and EDM lol why Subaru

off the top of my head, Throttle Position Sensor or Idle Air Control Valve on the throttle. Theres a long thread on the outback forum that seems to suggest theres a fix by updating ecu, not sure if outback specific but it's essentially the same car.

Service Bulletin # 11-96-10
Bulletin Description: This is to announce that ECM reprogramming files are now available to address RPM dropping below idle speed when the clutch pedal is depressed while the engine is warming up.

https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/car-dies-at-idle-updated-with-fix-post-281.25264/page-15

Could also be clutch related...

does it give you the "no" beeps when trying to engage? Could be a faulty ecu temp sensor as S# wont engage if temp too low OR too high.

otherwise the manual suggests checking the physical switch(es) and wiring.

not much info on 4th gen GX but there is some info on wikipedia in the 3rd gen page. Looks like it was an optional trim level in the Euro market, not Japan. 

May just be a misprint on your documents, there were at least a dozen variants of the Legacy in the JDM market. Not much info on Brazilian imports and what badges they put on them.

You might be able to send your VIN to Subaru or at least a Dealer to decode and verify

well, the only part that touches those teeth is your starter so that would be a good place to look first

I got mine from "08Spec_B" here. He said he gets batches in now and then in tan and black. He painted a tan one black for me since that's all he had. And put LEDs in the cupholders. Looks great and if the black is different from the rest of the black interior I can't tell.

got new boots from redlinegoods.com too, as they have the option for round shifter base (they are in Poland), in black with red stitching.

to install the sti rack, you just need to trim about 1/2" off the inner tie rod threads right?

Some wiring is messed up. It's normal operation for the fogs to be off when highbeams are on or vice versa. 

Someone may have modified the wiring to allow both on at the same time.

The natural habitat for an EJ, hanging from a crane.

Can't go wrong with OEM Exedy. Pretty sure they're the factory supplier, at least for the 6mt. Recently pulled mine with 80k and looked perfect. car has about 300hp/330tq, no issues.

$1,000-$1,500 is not a bad price for parts & labor. but that can vary quite a bit by region. Lowest I've seen for subie clutch labor was about $500-$600

18 hours ago, Max Capacity said:

I hope you don't have to use all those tools on your Spec... Nice box...

best boxes for the money. only use about 75% of them for the ol' shitbox restomod!

New 257 RA shortblock and rebuilt heads. hopefully good for another 200K....

Progress is slow because Florida and it's finally been cool enough to work on. Ordered the shortblock in autumn last year and arrived mid-summer this year. I don't like my gloves filling up like sweat balloons.

Once this is in, I get to rip out the dash (new one of those too since the recall dash I got a few years ago is already cracked) to fix the blend door actuators and put in a euro center console. Removing the aging and obsolete navigation, replacing with cubby gauges and double din radio/gps unit. Then brake master cylinder & big brakes...Should be ready by 2030.

does putting my tools away count as working on the car?

dashes still in stock! I just ordered one last week. my recall replacement dash cracked within 3-4 years...the last 2 years being garage kept. it's the same dash for the Outback so more likely to have them in stock for a while. 

sport subaru in orlando had $37 shipping where everyone else wanted $300+ extra to freight the thing. Just under $600 with tax and shipping.

oh for sure. I got the last few interior door panels for the spec.b. Nobody has inventory of the fronts so I'll have to transfer some trim bits. may have got the last 2 rears in black. the boxes they came in were certainly "fuckin old", taped and re-taped, yellowed stickers, dusty, and footprints on them.

I was kicking myself because I had all 4 panels in the cart for like a year or 2 waffling on "Do I reeeealy want to spend $1200 on door cards..." and then I went to order them and they were all "discontinued" so I had to call around the country to see if any dealers had any of them buried somewhere.

So we are at the end of production life for genuine replacement parts, especially weird/expensive shit that aftermarket won't make. That's usually 10 years after model production stops.

Yeah, sorry I should have included that in my post, which I just edited to show.

because racecar with no air filter or just hooned it on the beach for a few hours before selling.

If anyone finds this in the future wanting to replace the actuators, the whole HVAC unit is about $400 and includes the heater/evap core and all 3 actuators already installed. Which is cheaper than buying all 3 actuators separately. 

72110AG07B is the part I used for my 2008 with auto controls

72110AG07A looks to be what was used for 2006-2008, but the "B" part replaced that.

on a side note, the S209 repurposes these for activating the intercooler water sprayer. 

So it can be used for switching lots of things besides shifting, even for manual cars.