bigBADbenny

Cheers! Glad you DIY searched as trying on your behalf (here in Aus) is totally skewed by location settings: winning

Try a part # search on partsouq via your vin? What's the p/n? Let's assume yours is or is similar to a usdm late model 2.5t dohc 5mt... Here the useage info for your upper hvac door motor... http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/72131AG24A/ So find ***any*** of those cars listed at your local self serve wrecker, tell em it's eg a relay and get it for $5 or eg 12 if described as solenoid or actuator The above info was found here by cross referencing your sig and OF climate section for legacy b13 usdm as found here (part 22) http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_7/climate/heater_system/illustration_2/ 72131AG24A Searched on eBay looks similar to dealership pricing so the wreckers should be your first destination for haste and value

^ aka the technical tap Beware, the mounts for the actuators are quite delicate... Bordering on flimsy My understanding is that dual zone is not an issue regarding hvac door actuators, but lhd/rhd is relevant. Just buy the motors to suit your lhd car. For comparison: Usdm 6mt GTb lhd: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_12/climate/heater_system/illustration_2/ Eudm 5mt 2.0r my07+ lhd: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/en_b13/type_27/climate/heater_system/illustration_6/ Check the useage info above, the parts seem to be region specific, thus I'd check them on eBay or partsouq for comparison. Also do a vin based part search on eg partsouq to be sure The reason for this is your car is post facelift lhd model which USA iirc didn't get.

Just find your car in opposed forces, find the hvac section and the motor part entries and click the part link to see useage info for any relevant models. Lmk if that's beyond your capabilities Doing so, you may find rhd hvac motors are not compatible with lhd... Here's my rhd post facelift info: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/en_b13/type_36/climate/heater_system/illustration_2/ Order replacements if reqd via eg partsouq or japanparts or Ebay

^ Don't forget swan neck supports for maximum wing effect

It's a difficult job, but crows foot wrenches make it possible to reach the rack/ps nuts in situ. A good tip I found is to unbolt the ps reservoir, then unbolt/drop the rack a little for access...

Drool!!!

AKA: Mr. Gasket 738G Water Outlet Gasket from eg Jegs...

Pull out the trim that's in the way, get your head up in the footwell and put the lever peg back in the slot of the actuator cam. If that doesn't work, pull and fix the actuator as mentioned ^

Excellent diagram thanks!

I've used pink and blue band STi u-joints on the RHD BP/BL rack. They transmit more road buzz but it's a minor fingertip feeling.

I'm ADM RHD GT spec B with a 3.1 turn stock rack and finally have a used GRB 34110FG010 on its way from Japan. It will be installed along with a single loop OEM PS cooler that was removed from an MY06 H6 spec B. Once that's done I'll get a local rack shop to see if the guts of an FE550 fit into the 3.1 rack. They share the same seal/rebuild kit.

The RHD VA rack is au$1400 delivered to Australia via Japanparts or Subaru Japan. I'll get a local quote using that p/n but it's likely to be higher. I guess volume keeps the USDM price down.

Adm pre MY07 rhd liberties and legacy (H6 and GT at least) are 15:1 aka a fast rack. You can confirm next time the front is on stands by grabbing the part number on the sticker on the rack. It's a direct swap for the JDM GR+ STi quick rack which are available eg from Japanparts or Subaru Japan for around $1400 inc delivery

I wish! Based on reading the IWSTi AOS thread plus related research... My takeaways are: Racecars often use a scavenged CCV for the various benefits. Separate AOS or CC's for heads/CCV are a great option, even for street/light track cars. Or at the very least a 2L CC, they're even mandatory on some tracks in AU... Getting the hose sizes worked out to promote good vacuum as well as correct placement of one-way valves were important pieces of the puzzle. The Provent is rather large, but have a replaceable filter, so a cleaner, serviceable option if venting to the inlet. Sakou Michi dual cc install: Joel is heavily into autocross. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=39078585 KillerB oil control valve: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2628337

Because racekar... I'd consider eg a Mann & Hummel Provent AOS (or IAG etc) on the CCV, & vented to the inlet (or exhaust) via a scavenge pump for constant crankcase vacuum. Vent the heads via to a second CC. Both items draining to the sump (with eg extra plugs welded in if req) via one way valves.

Another ADM Liberty Club member has bought one of the scratch n dent triple gauge holders and will attempt installing it in a spare prefacelift 5mt ashtray piece (in front of the shift boot). The aperture will require considerable widening of course. I'll be doing same pending how it goes, if not sooner... Keep up the great work, DJ and the other 3DP PPL

Source a jdm Sti 2.5l short out of a foz Sti or auto Wrx Sti

Are you allowed a brake water dribbler/spray, something that could be used in extreme situations?

I had at a wreck and got the upper and lower vent actuators out for spares... A 1/4 mini ratchet with various length extenders and a Phillips tip is essential ( and a ton of patience ) and a telescopic inspection mirror Iirc the motor issue can also be the internal contact tracks wearing out, thus the hunting, so I just bent the flexible contacts a little to give them fresh track

Living the dream!

Apart from the oil cooler in the yet to be upgraded mounting location, what other oil related mods keep this car reliable on the track?

Drool

Awesome rig, there's a pattern emerging in Aus of weak pistons in 08 legs and Wrxs...

^ Vs tx or gulf stich? :good: