DrD123

neither were installed in mine - wonder what they are for?

When I look on parts.subaru.com, I find 64140AJ07BVH (superseding 64140AJ07AVH) for the left and 64140AJ06AVH for the right - when I check "what this fits" for both of them, it only fits the 11/12 Legacy GT, so I am guessing it has the silver stitching since that showed up in 2011.

I have 26 left (drivers side) and 19 right (passenger side)

Well, to be fair, you found 4 leaks if you have oil in all 4 plug tubes

I would check the pcv valve - make sure it's moving freely (or better, since it's cheap and takes some effort to get it out, just go ahead and replace it.  If the old one doesn't rattle back and forth when you shake it, it was stuck and that could be the issue.  If the pcv valve is original, at 178k miles, it's likely gummed up.

Oil in the spark plug tubes just means the gasket where the tube meets the valve cover is leaking.  Only solution is to replace the gaskets (you pull the valve cover and then replace the two spark plug tube seals and the valve cover gasket - it's a little awkward because it's a subaru and the valve covers are on the sides of the engine, but not hard.  If the oil were messing with a cylinder, you'd have a misfire (flashing CEL and a P030x where x is the cylinder misfiring)

12 hours ago, dgoodhue said:

My gaskets were OK but I did mine in 2017 when my car was 6 years old. (2011 build date)

So when I look at the parts diagrams for the 2012, they show 2 gaskets for the assembly - the one that the bolts go through (which is the same for all of the years of the LGT) then another one that goes on top of the filter assembly where the ring would press down on it - it's only shown for the 2012, but I don't know if it's really there or not, because there is a parts drawing for 2011-2012 which shows it not there, then one for 2012 only that shows it's there...  if I enter my vin in parts.subaru.com it doesn't get rid of that drawing, and there's no vin range on the figures...  my car also has a 2011 build date (9/11) so I'd think it would be more like the 2011...  it looks like they redesigned the lock ring for one that has the gasket from 2012 on and one that didn't for up to 2012...  I imagine maybe that's the build date?   This is the gasket I am wondering about:

On 10/18/2022 at 9:05 PM, motorbreath said:

I just did the filter housing and clip that holds the fuel pump in. Everything else seemed to be in good shape when I did this.

So the gaskets were ok? 

So here's what I am planning to get...  should be the right filter, then the gasket on top of the filter assembly, the one that seals to the tank, then a couple of little bits that hold the fuel pump in place.  This is feeling like a christmas shutdown sort of activity, so not for a few months.

Krylon has another version which is called "UV resistant" - I wonder if this would work better?  (or at least last longer!)

https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K01305-Coatings-11-Ounce-UV-Resistant/dp/B00397STRW/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1IPYQ901N11PL&keywords=clear+coat+uv&qid=1666142553&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIyLjYyIiwicXNhIjoiMS45NSIsInFzcCI6IjEuOTYifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=clear+coat+uv%2Caps%2C170&sr=8-2

So for those that have done this, should I just replace the filter (looks to be p/n 42072AJ070) or should I add on some of the other little bits (maybe the spacer that goes on top of the fuel pump, the packing between the bracket and the fuel pump, and the holder bracket thingy for the fuel pump?  Their each like $5 so I am leaning towards getting them on the off chance the holder breaks when taking apart the assembly or the packing is stuck inside the old filter) I imagine I need to replace the gasket on top of the fuel filter assembly too...

32 minutes ago, Scubaboo said:

Here is the old and new pitch stop.  See that little rubber tab sticking out of the old pitch stop?  It gets squeezed out when the mount collapses to serve as a visual indicator that is easy to see from up top.

That is pretty cool - I guess you learn something new every day!  (I know what I am going to go look at this morning!)

Well, P0000 is a generic "no fault codes detected" code, but P0302 is a misfire on cylinder 2, so that's worth chasing down.  The clutch shouldn't stall the car out when decelerating (obviously, if the clutch is in when you get too slow the car gets mad and bucks/stalls) but it shouldn't throw a misfire code when it actually stalls.  Is the CEL flashing at any point?  (that would indicate the engine is misfiring)

So the little fabric belt with the D-ring attaches under the plastic fastener to the trim at the opening of the trunk, then the bottom of the net has a hook that goes there.  the top fastener is replaced with a double-hook sort of fastener that a loop of from the net goes over, then the other two sides go to the push fasteners on the side of the trunk.  I don't remember if I had one of the screw in center fasteners break, but on both sides, I have a regular push fastener on the bottom and the screw in center one on the top (I installed it back in 2011, so it was a while ago) - here's a picture of the right side (same as you posted of your trunk) so you can see where everything goes.  You can put stuff inside the net, as well as use the net to hold things in the corners of the trunk.  If it's in the way, you just take the net off the two hooks and it's out of the way - I like them!

the only 2.5GT specific part for the body is the hood, and you can probably use anything from 2010-2014 for everything else (though there were changes to the bumper in 2013-2014) - if you live somewhere that has decent you-pull-it or other salvage yards, you should be able to find a donor - or you could buy from a copart auction for a totaled vehicle that has a rear hit (looking right now, there are 210 MY10-MT14 Legacys on there)

the fuel trims (short term and long term) are how the ECM has adjusted the fuel into the cylinders to operate properly - ideally, short term and long term should be small, and close to zero (short term will jump around a little, you generally should see something under 5 or 10%.  If the car is running rich and the fuel trims are high, then the engine thinks it's getting less fuel or more air than it actually is - assuming the MAF sensor is reading properly, and the plugs are good (there are counterfeit NGK plugs out there that give less than ideal results, could be one of your o2 sensors are reading incorrectly ( the car is 12 years old, give or take, with a bunch of miles, so certainly wouldn't be a surprise for one to go) - if they are large and negative, maybe you have a bad/leaking injector...

if you don't stick to top tier gas, then it wouldn't hurt to run some injector cleaner through (techron, etc.)

usually, radically uneven pad wear (particularly the outside pad) is due to either the pad getting hung up in the bracket, or the slide pins binding - when you replaced the pads, did you replace the hardware in the bracket as well?  was there any rust on the bracket under the hardware?  you want to clean the area under the hardware down to bare metal, then install the new hardware and pads - make sure they slide easily through the full range of motion.  For the slide pins, pull them and clean out the hole as well as the pins, then relubricate with a silicone brake lube (don't go crazy) then reinstall them in the bracket and make sure you can slide the pins all the way in and out freely. (you may have already done all that - that's just the approach I take) - I am not sure how the abs module would abnormally wear one of the two pads...  are the brakes dragging?

So getting close to buying a new set of tires and was contemplating what to do about the tpms sensors.  Car is 11 years old, so I am wondering if the batteries are getting close to dead (only 80k miles, though, so maybe not?)  I suppose I could just wait until the system acts up, then replace all 4...  So how long have folks had theirs go before dying, or is everyone still running their originals?

On 9/17/2022 at 10:38 AM, Falcor said:

I just checked and the closest 93 octane to Pittsburg (south east KS) is 30 min away. 

Lucky!  They don't even have 93 in NM that I have found (on a trip down to Carlsbad, I couldn't even get 91 - only 90 at the time!) - in Albuquerque, 91 is the highest you can find unless you get some race gas at 100+ and mix...  did that once on my old WRX (very noticeable difference) but haven't on the LGT - the local station that had Trick race gas (107, I think) is long gone...

(main reason they don't have it here is the elevation - I live at about 6k ft. above sea level...)

10 hours ago, motorbreath said:

You have got to be kidding me.

I thought it was pretty funny - most of the videos I have seen show it being rough to remove them from the knuckle without the astro tool, so I bought that a while back.  When doing them this time, I just used a wood block and a hammer to smack down on the control arm once I had the pinch bolt off.  Took a few good hits, but they both popped out.  They were rusty mostly up towards the end/bottom, but the part closer to the boot was actually pretty clean...  We get snow very infrequently here, and I am pretty good about getting an undercarriage wash shortly after we do.  Very little road salt to deal with.  (growing up in the northeast, I am used to everything rotting out, but it definitely doesn't do that here) - I put antiseize on them just in case when installing (as well as inside the knuckle) then just used the floor jack and a block of wood to pop them into the knuckle and they went right in.

I am curious how folks torque the front bushing down while the car is on the ground - I ended up just lifting from under the control arm with a floor jack/block of wood until the center of the hub was as close to ride height as I could get it with the wheel off (maybe a cm or so away from actual ride height- I was lifting the car up off the jack stands at that point...  figured it was good enough and torqued it down.)

Installed the control arms - didn't get to use my cool Astro Pneumatic tool, though - one of the benefits of living in the southwest - I was able to just pull the ball joints out of the control arms without removing them from the control arm first.  Front bushing on the drivers side was destroyed, and the rear bushings had some partial tears in them.

Sorry if I offended the Mevotech fans - their supreme line was 0 and 2 for the lower control arms on our old minivan (05 Odyssey - even got fancy and upgraded to the aluminum ones from the 08...), so confidence lost, so to speak.  Maybe next time I have to do control arms I'll try them or another aftermarket version - the OEMs lasted since I bought the car new 11 years and 80k miles ago though, so it will probably be a while!

On 9/11/2022 at 2:18 PM, FLlegacy said:

The mevotech arms are highly recommended and come with all the hardware ready to install. And the rear pancake bushing is solid vs the holy stock one.

I have had poor experiences in the past with Mevotech lower control arms - now that was on a Honda odyssey using their "supreme" line bought from Rockauto - first set had the boots split in pretty short order (month or so) - replaced without complaint by rockauto - then in about a year and a half the ball joints on both sides were wrecked with tons of play - replaced again without complaint, but didn't give me a positive impression with respect to quality control.  Granted, different vehicle, and the parts get high marks (well, the little heart) on rockauto, but I just couldn't bring myself to do it, and didn't know about the other brands - OEM is $118 a side from Heuberger and they'll be here on Wednesday, so I decided to do that (they come with a new castle nut and cotter pin

So driving to visit my kiddo at college and the car would shake accelerating (but only once you got over 70mph or so) and on sweeping right turns at highway speeds - also when changing lanes to the right at highway speeds I'd get a little vibration/shaking...  checking over everything all of the axles looked fine - no torn boots, etc. - went to the front left (drivers side) wheel and got significant motion when rocking it back and forth - figured oh joy, fried bearing - but when it moved, you could see everything connected to the hub/knuckle move which was weird - poked around some more and noticed the front bushing on the control arm (the small one - not the big rear one) had significant motion (as in, all of the motion of the wheel was from that) - few mm, anyway!  Ordered up some new control arms (figured if one side was bad, other would likely follow) - car has 81k miles on it, so nothing crazy, but on the off chance one or both of the ball joints are bad, and the rear, while not moving, definitely have cracks in them, so they are probably not long for this world, so might as well replace the whole shooting match. 

So I have two new control arms ordered up from Subaru - hopefully this solves the problem (plus it gives me a chance to use my spiffy Astro pneumatic subaru ball joint puller, which is good!) - as a southern car, there's like zero rust, so probably not that hard to get them out without the tool, but since I have it, I'm definitely going to use it!

Didn't see anything about a better aftermarket alternative than OEM, so that's what I have en route.

while changing the oil and under the car saw oil dripping off the engine right about at the head gasket... noticed it looked odd, then when I got out from under the car I noticed the PS reservoir was  a little low and thankfully found that it was just my power steering pump peeing fluid on the top of the engine...  replaced the suction side o-ring, cleaned up the mess, and we're good to go.  (went from "oh crap, not a blown head gasket" to "$3 o-ring and we're good to go")

15 hours ago, FLlegacy said:

The wrx BPV has a different size nipple than the LGT are you using a WRX bpv? Or is that on the charge pipe side?

yeah - I read turbo inlet but thought throttle body inlet...  I am running the stock turbo inlet (with a turbosmart kompact diverter valve)