DrD123

4 hours ago, FLlegacy said:

I can't recall the 5th gen GT having an aftermarket option for the turbo inlet.

Just the Perrin one and I thought Morimoto?  Definitely Perrin, though - the one for the 15 WRX works (have one on my car)

Definitely a lot of folks with long-covid - wish that could get sorted out.  Been fortunate thus far that my friends whom have had it, while some had a pretty rough go, no one has that.  There's supposed to be a revised vaccine more effective against the current strains this fall...  so it really does look like it's going to be another flu shot like thing...  we're back to masking at work which is sort of a drag, but what are you going to do.

Is it 44652AA940 - that's the "Turbocharger Mount Heat Shield"

there are usually a bunch of them on eBay in the 50-70 range - I'd just swap it out, or use it as a chance to upgrade to something fancy

I always assumed the extra holes were if you needed the hood opened higher while working on the engine (often see something similar with the standard rigid strut where there is more than one spot to mount it) - can you not get the broken one out of the hood?

might want to check for combustion gasses in the coolant...  a head gasket failure can give symptoms like that, as can a leak somewhere in the coolant system (if the cooling system can't hold pressure, the coolant can boil) a bad thermostat could cause problems, too.  (I'd be pretty surprised if they re-used the coolant, but it wouldn't be surprising if they didn't replace the thermostat)

PM'ed you about the floor mats

So the BIU only provides power to the dome light and the map lights if you are using them as the interior lights when you open a door. If you have that switched off (for the map lights, the switch just in front of them - it's a slider switch - not the pushbuttons for each light) then the BIU can not provide any current at all to them - same deal for the dome light - it only powers them if it's set in the door position - set it to off, and the BIU can't provide any power to them (but if something else that's powered has a poor ground in the neighborhood, it could possibly send power through the light if that's best ground. (you do mention turning the switch to off and the lights staying on, which suggests a problem - perhaps the new lights have a better driver that doesn't go on at low power, but the underlying issue is likely still there)

 

 

 

If you have the switches both set to door, and you are getting the dim lighting all the time, but it goes out when you switch the slider switch off of door, then it's the BIU - if not, then my thought would be to check your grounds - something is dumping power through the light that shouldn't be.

pretty much all manufacturers have some cars with issues - Subaru seems to do quite a bit better than many. Some folks have more problems than others, that's for sure. My 02 WRX did great until it got hit/totalled. My LGT has done great with the exception of that spun bearing thing a few years back... Subaru defrayed quite a bit of the cost and it's been just fine since then. That being said, our Honda Odysseys have been pretty impressive >280k on the first (transmission died at 211k), a bit over 110k on the second (and still going - it's only a 16). Just picked up an 05 Pilot for my oldest with 200k on the clock from some friends that's been solid. I tend to be pretty neurotic about maintenance, though, so that probably helps (the Pilot owners were as well, but did everything at the dealer - things in pretty great shape)

 

 

New cars scare me with all of the electronics, though... I like dedicated knobs/buttons - controlling everything through a screen is disconcerting.

You actually can't call Rockauto. There is no one to call - they don't even publish a number.

Except that yes, they do? Go to their website, click on the "About Us" link at the bottom and it gives the number as 1-608-661-1376 - maybe that's not a technical support number? (not sure - haven't called - I have purchased a bunch of stuff from them over the years (the side of my toolbox is covered with rockauto magnets) - haven't called, but have emailed with issues before with good results when something wasn't quite what it was supposed to be.

a larger front and rear swaybar to accompany the Konis makes a big difference, as well. (though the front is a bit of a bear to do if the engine isn't out of the car for something like, say, a new shortblock... but then it just drops right in... )

If there is a NAPA parts near you, they have a number of options listed, and the images show the correct 2 pin connector. For Rockauto, have you called them or are you just going off the website? there's a good chance (since the fans they list which all show 4 pin plugs are indicated as being for 2005-2014) the images are a generic photo (for the connectors) and the fans are correct (one has a heart next to it indicating it's a popular product, which I wouldn't think would happen if everyone that bought it had to return it!)

Good luck, hope it resolves your issues!

Worked beautifully! Another thing I like about most t-bolt clamps is the wider band (provided there's room for it) - they work really well, and apply pressure very uniformly

No worries - got the t-bolt clamps in today (pack of 2 all stainless ones for $13 on amazon) - probably will install it tomorrow along with a couple of other things.

Another potential cause for a vibration/binding sort of feeling that is worse when the car is cold could be the center differential, but that's usually apparent when turning... a worn cv joint could be it - haven't had that go on my car, but on our last van, the inner cv joints went on both axles (1 at a time...), but it would only vibrate on acceleration, not deceleration (granted - it's an fwd van) - the inner joints made no noise when they were dying, though. I wouldn't think a cv joint issue would go away when warm, but maybe lubrication is marginal for some reason, and as the grease warms up it smooths things out?

So it just donned on me that 38.5mm = 1.5", so not what I want. Went and checked what I have on the upper radiator hose and it's 44-51mm, and I measure at 49mm or so for the current position (on the outside of the clamp, so it's probably more like 47 or thereabout), so I'll just get that! (for the spring clamps, I find them kinda annoying, actually - particularly when they are in an awkward location for me - on the upper radiator hose, the OEM clamp was letting the hose slide back on the nipple, which was weird, so I had replaced it (based on Amazon, that was back in 2016) - that's the only time I removed it (upper radiator hose = less mess) - I really like the all stainless t-bolt clamps for uniform pressure. The worm drive ones that are the non-marring kind (with a loop that goes under the screw and part of the band that has holes in it) are good, and more readily available, though, so I have used those, too.

Thanks - so looks like 38.5mm. I need to replace the clamp onto the thermostat housing, so not so worried about cracking it - the worm drive clamp that I have on there now is not in great shape, so I am going to just replace it with a t-bolt clamp. (replacing with an OEM clamp requires removing the lower radiator hose and draining a bunch of reasonably new Subaru coolant. I can replace the worm drive clamp with a t-bolt clamp with the hose in place)

So the worm clamp I have on there is a little messed up (or at least it's weeping coolant) - does anyone know the diameter I would need for a t-bolt clamp? (I suppose I could just measure, but I was hoping someone knew off the top of their head!)

If the tensioner and idler pulley is not in the best condition can I still put the belt on and remove the belt again when I order the new parts?

 

I don't mind doing the job twice if I have to, just want to want order something and not needed it.

absolutely - you could also pull the old belt and take a look before ordering anything, then put it back on until the new belt and any other parts (if needed) arrive - that way you only pay shipping for parts once.

agreed - pull the belt, then check the pulley on the tensioner and the other idler pulley to make sure the bearings are ok - if they sound crunchy or have a lot of play, might as well replace them. The OEM belt is $26.95 (MSRP) so not really expensive. The tensioner is $107 (MSRP) and the idler is $50.

 

I replaced mine when I did my timing belt, and used an OEM belt (the tensioner and idler pulleys were both smooth and quiet, so I left them be). If you had a shop do it, and didn't ask them to replace the serpentine belt (and it's not listed on the receipt) odds are it's the original that is still on there.

 

It's very easy to do - one piece of advice, take a quick picture of the belt routing before you remove the belt (to save yourself the inevitable question of "now how did this thing go on there again?")

There is a trunk release lockout in the glovebox, many owners including myself were ignorant of its existence. I doubt a random thief would know about it. But again, most thieves are looking for easy, so a locked door is almost always enough to keep them moving on to the next car. Here in Florida the cops call them handle flippers, because they walk around flipping door handles until one opens.

same basic deal here - we've had a number of folks get their cars "broken into" in the neighborhood but when you ask how much damage they did, the answer is always the car wasn't locked (happened to my neighbor and two different houses across the street)

 

 

breaking into most cars sets off an alarm, which attracts attention - if the thief is doing a smash and grab, they usually look to see that there is something worthwhile in the "grab" category first

Podi electronic boost gauge - includes everything shown (sender, control box, gauge, remote, cables, tubing, etc.) - works fine, I just upgraded to a Defi white racer.

 

 

$55 shipped conus (reasonably firm)

rumor has it if you go to the "general chat" forum, then look at the "vacation pix" thread that might just be stickied in there, you can find all sorts of info that might be helpful with sorting out issues like these...

How do you like the stereo? Can you post up a picture or two of it installed? Curious if it allows you to still use the cubby hole or if it blocks the vents (I've been thinking about getting something with a decent sized screen like this)

Podi electronic boost gauge - includes everything shown (sender, control box, gauge, remote, cables, tubing, etc.) - works fine, I just upgraded to a Defi white racer.

 

 

$55 shipped conus (reasonably firm)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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