DrD123

I never saw Cobb stage 2 maps for the 2012, and am guessing there never were any for the 11, either.

well, if it wouldn't crank on it's own, but cranked and started just fine when you jumped it, my thought would be that the battery is weak/dead.  If you jump it, drive it around a bit, then can restart it just fine, but when you wait overnight it won't start in the morning, I would suspect you have a parasitic drain from something.

I am guessing the alternator is ok if you don't see the charging system while driving, but would definitely check the voltage across the battery when the car is running (maybe even turn on a load or two like the headlights, and see if it can still hold a reasonable voltage - if it can't, could be a weak alternator, too)

How old is the battery?

26 => 28mm will give you a 35% increase in torsional stiffness.   I went from 23 -> 26 on my car (63% increase in torsional stiffness) and it was pretty noticeable - hopefully replacing the front swaybar is easier with the FB25 than the EJ25 engine.  (the engine was out of the car when I did mine)

C0057 is a communication failure to the ECM for the VDC system (not seeing a CAN signal) and C0231 is ECM failure for the parking brake system

Have you checked the wiring harnesses around the VDC hydraulic module, back to the parking brake, and to the ECM itself?  Could be a broken wire, bad ground, etc.

Replaced the Y-tube and the pcv line coming off the top of the pcv valve - impressive how hard they get after a decade under the hood!  The cracks in the y-tube were pretty deep, but I couldn't see light through them, so caught it before it became a vacuum leak, I guess...  Couldn't get the large clicker hose clamp to close on the y-tube - just couldn't get enough room with the cutter...  replaced it with a stainless worm drive clamp, so good to go.  Sadly, dropped the nut off the t-bolt clamp for the throttle body hose to the intercooler - heard a clink and then nothing... per normal, it didn't hit the floor - couldn't find it anywhere, so had to replace it (it's 1/4-28 for anyone with the Cobb silicone throttle body hose that runs into the same thing.) - $3 later and I had 3 stainless lock nuts from Lowes.

So I don't have many miles on my car (83k) compared to some folks, but decided I really ought to replace my PCV valve (it's sort of buried under the intercooler on the passenger side of the engine for those with a GT) - mine was completely failed (could blow through it in either direction - interestingly, it still rattled when you shook it, it just didn't seal) - used an OEM replacement and also discovered that the weird Y-tube coming off the engine was pretty cracked up (not weeping oil or anything, just pretty cracked at the point the PCV valve goes and where it attaches to a small metal tube.  The base seemed just fine where it connects to the engine itself.  I have replacement tubing on the way, and for now am just using my new valve in that.  (the clamps are easy to remove/reinstall - there's a nice video on youtube that shows how using a pocket screwdriver to disengage and a pair of cutters to snap it back on)

Wasn't really losing oil or anything - was just picking up parts and figured I might as well replace it.

The bugeye WRX had a tank on top of the engine (near the turbo) - early ones had black paint on them (which liked to come off) but later ones (all during MY02) had the silver/bare metal ones that didn't do that (I had one of the latter) - for 02, the only radiator cap was on the tank on top of the engine!  In MY03, they used a radiator with a cap on it, so you had the 2-caps like they have now.  (I had the original radiator fail after a few years (leaking at the tank seal) so it was replaced under warranty with the one with the cap on it.  The overflow tank was on the drivers side of the car on the end of the radiator as it is on most of their cars.

I think the idea with the single radiator cap on the surge tank thing was that it was the highest point, so the place to fill from - however, because you weren't right on the upper radiator hose, I think it was common to get air bubbles in there.

is it hard to shift because the clutch isn't engaging/disengaging, or is it just hard to put in gear?

the fancy funnel is definitely the way to go.  One thing I do which seems to make getting all the air out easy is lift the front of the car (I do high as I can on my jackstands) then fire it up for a bit and keep adding coolant until stays full.  give the upper radiator hose a few rapid squeezes as well to try and push air.  When I fill it up, I do it slowly to make sure air doesn't get trapped as it fills.  Has always worked well for me on my car.

The highs aren't adjustable, unfortunately.

If you can find someone local to help you out, you can get Monroe fully assembled spring/strut/bearing assemblies from Rockauto pretty cheap - about $450 shipped for all 4 units, then it's remove the old and install the new (you will need to get an alignment afterwards since the Legacy uses camber bolts on the front.  Given the age, you'll almost certainly want to replace the strut tops/bearings.

On 3/14/2023 at 5:34 PM, bigstrusk said:

Did you need any of the accessories? I've been getting sick of constantly changing blown low beams... Half off price is tempting. 

Nope - they are totally plug and play.  The driver is small and part of the cable - everything tucks right inside the headlight housing (highly recommend removing your headlights to install them)

5 hours ago, Orkinman said:

Thank you!

 

Current plan is to use KYB donors/Koni inserts and Koni Rears.

 

I assume the KONI parts need to be for the WRX 08+? What about the springs? I am not looking to drop the ride height a lot and mess with the rear camber. Should I go with a later year legacy spring that is stiffer? 

No - you want to use the ones for the Legacy - so 8610 1447Sport inserts for the front and 8010 1055 Sport struts for the rear.  For springs, the 13/14 springs are stiffer than the 10-12.  (I'd strongly recommend the 13/14 springs if you are staying OEM (that's exactly what I did)) - I'd recommend replacing the strut tops, as well.  (you're going to need to open up the bore on the rear strut tops to accommodate the Konis as well - the fronts work just fine)

For the KYB donors, I don't know if there is any difference between the ones for the 10-12 and the ones for the 13/14 - presumably the valving is different, but you are removing that and just using the body.  I used the ones for the 10-12.

reviving an old thread!

If anyone is looking to upgrade their lowbeams to LEDs, VLEDS has the H7 Micro Extreme on clearance for $100 (they changed the colors of the housing for their new lineup, so these are the ones with the black housing with a red ring on them) - I've had these for 3 years and they are pretty awesome!  (these are the 5K color)

https://www.vleds.com/closeout/micro-extreme-h7-closeout.html

also be mindful that miles to empty is based on some sort of average consumption rate, which can vary quite a bit from instantaneous consumption rate if the average is based on a bunch of highway miles, and you are now driving around the city...  (I have no idea if it uses an overall average or has a rolling average of a particular time period)

I would assume that adjusting the average fuel economy correction would do it, but I don't know for sure.  (it is never going to measure how much is in the tank beyond what the level switch tells it - once you get about to empty, even the level switch isn't going to be particularly reliable...

For my car, I record fill-ups and miles per gallon of the display vs. actual and after 250 or so tanks of gas, I average +4.9% (display reads 4.9% higher than average, with a standard deviation of 2.4, so it generally is off by 3 to 7%, but some of that error is probably due to my calculation being based on how much gas I add when I fill up, which will very from station to station a little, I bet)

It's never going to be perfect, but you can adjust things using the dealer customization mode

Could certainly be the bov (well, more of a diverter valve).  If you are at elevation, you won't hit the sea level boost targets, either (so if you are in NM or CO, for example, and are at 5-6k feet above sea level, you will not hit the target.

18 hours ago, FLlegacy said:

I was able to reattach the original foam to my aluminum radiator with some double sided foam tape.

That was my plan B (using some trim adhesive I have) - my original is sort of full of crap (at least the bottom one) from tumbleweeds, etc.

So what other mods does it have - you should not be hitting 25 psi with a stock tune - I'd be worried you are running lean... 

Also -what stereo is in there?  There looks to be a dial next to the passenger heated seat light - what is that for? (it's not stock)

Well - it's installed and leak tight, so I can finally give my kiddo her Pilot back.

So for folks that have replaced their radiator, did you replace the foam tape insulator things at the top and bottom?  The bottom is about an inch and a half wide and maybe 3/4" thick and the top is about an inch wide and maybe a half inch thick.  I ended up getting some 1" wide, 1" thick (well - it expands to that thick - it's to fill gaps from 1/4" to 1") foam tape meant for metal roofs (figure if it can handle that in NM, the heat from the radiator is a non-issue) - couldn't bring myself to buy two little pieces of foam tape each priced more than a roll of the stuff I got (I think it was $8 at home depot).  The stuff I bought seemed to work just fine, and it's pinched between the radiator and the radiator support by design, so even if the adhesive fails, it's not going anywhere...

well - the OEM radiator finally showed up - it's even intact!  So I'll put it in tomorrow and be back in business.

I have searched a bit and couldn't find a list per se - looks like the Koyo VH091662 fits as plug and play, the Mishimoto MMRAD-STI-08 looks like it can fit, but might require modification (hard to say - the person that installed it has an upgraded charge pipe which complicated things - not sure how it would work with the OEM charge pipe) - are there others that will work?  I have seen some folks comment on poor build quality from Mishimoto, so I was leaning towards the koyo...

I agree - if you replaced some components, you are supposed to do the force sensor calibration for the actuator, which sadly requires the SSM

3 hours ago, FLlegacy said:

Fwiw I used an epdm nipple plug from the oem replacements section of the local auto parts store to plug that extra connection on my aftermarket radiator. No issues with that so far.

Yeah - I'm looking at the Koyo radiator (VH091662) - I really wanted to stick with OEM (I just like to do that... it's sad) but if it doesn't work out by mid-week, I'll order up the Koyo - I believe it either doesn't have the extra hole, or the hole is threaded and will take a plug.